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MÉXICO CITY
México City, aka ”Ciudad de México, or just “CDMX” is a living metropolis like no other. 20 million residents quilted across 573 square miles, in a Lego landscape framed by mountains and active volcanoes.
While it appears impossibly vast from an airplane window, here on the ground, each neighborhood evokes a surprisingly serene quality. Individual enclaves budding with proud artistry, unique architecture and swoon worthy cuisine.
Centro Histórico
A constant swirl of activity, Centro is like the center of a galaxy, timeless and alluring and absolutely alive. At its heart, ancient ruins of the Aztec Templo Mayor feel almost buried by the centuries it’s endured amid the flurry, not to mention the futility of seeing its stones repurposed by the conquering Spanish to form the walls of Catholic cathedrals. Their bell towers casting sundial shadows across the vast plazas. Also standing tall in Centro CDMX is the Palacio de Bellas Artes, the Metropolitan Cathedral, the Palacio Nacional, the Church of Santo Domingo, Museo Nacional de Arte and the Museo Frida Kahlo.
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Roma Norte
Ironic that this modern-aesthetic neighborhood lined with design-centric cafes, fusion restaurants, vintage shops and spiky bohemes dates back to the 20th century, when affluent families first relocated here, beyond the hubbub of Centro Histórico. Roma Norte and Condesa are close sisters, sophisticated yet laid back and welcoming.
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The timelessly-toned gluteus maximus of Michelangelo‘s David adds muscularity to the serenity of Roma Norte. While David looks to have been standing here for ages, this impressive bronze replica of the original was created in 2020. Weighing in at trim 284.16 lbs. and standing an erect 16.96 ft., this Alpha-generation David is one of two replicas gracing CDMX. His impeccable white marble twin greets visitors in the grand lobby of the Museo Soumaya in Polanco.
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Juárez
The Colonia Juárez neighborhood, shaped like an airplane wing, has always been home to a lofty group of artists and intellectuals, despite eras of financial decay and earthquake damage. Today, it thrives with creative shops and restaurants nestled in early 19th century townhouses. It hosts a lively Korean enclave (with the K-town cuisine options to go with it) and a proud gay community in its “Pink Zone”. In our opinion, here you’ll discover the best bespoke clothes, curios, salons, and cafes.
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Condesa
“The Countess”, indeed. Elegant, charming, colorful, festive, ready to receive her bohemian subjects and visiting guests in leafy pageantry. Art deco buildings crown the walkable tree-lined streets like a tiara, adding streamline sensibility to this historic neighborhood in the Cuauhtémoc borough. By day, genteel, and welcoming, but by night our countess steps out into the lively, international nightlife of the Hipodromo ‘hood. All together, a mix of stunning restaurants, bookshops, bars and boutique inns define Condesa, along with its youthful energy and sophisticated design. The only reason to explore beyond its many charms is the related simple wonders of neighboring Roma-Norte (and Juárez!)
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Museums
México City’s trove of art and anthropological collections is reason enough to visit the city. Presented in glorious venues, each museum in CDMX colors us spellbound and inspired.
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In its central courtyard, an impossibly massive rectangular mushroom umbrella seems to hover overhead, balanced atop a single sequoia-sized pillar. The usually-penetrating Mexican sun is effortlessly eclipsed by this towering centerpiece designed in 1964 by visionary architects, Pedro Ramírez Vázquez, Jorge Campuzano, and Rafael Mijares Alcérreca. As if some sort of alien form, it drizzles water onto the pond below in a mesmerizing rain dance, like a set piece from David Lynch’s Dune. Inside the galleries that flank this phenomenon are artefacts from México's indigenous Maya, Aztec and Olmec cultures. Mind-bending pieces that intricately illustrate the complexities and beauties of lifetimes past.
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It said that one of these young Niños Héroes cadets, memorialized in bronze, wrapped himself in the Mexican flag and leaped to his death from this very balustrade rather than surrender to the American army that would soon take the castle in 1847. It survived the Mexican-American war and the regrettable rule of Austrian archduke Emperor Maximilian, who, in 1864 imported a very non-indigenous interior design style to this strategic hillside fortress/royal home, not to mention a most objectionable–and doomed monarchy rule. (His was executed in 1867). Originally a sacred place to the Aztecs, Chapultepec means “Hill of the Grasshoppers” in their language. Today it is home to the National Museum of History with an array of fascinating artifacts and exhibits.
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When one is one of the richest people on the planet, one may conceive and construct an out-of-this-world gallery for one’s own private collection, assembled in one place to be appreciated by all. Hence the genesis of this undulating modern jewelbox that houses spectacular works starting with an exact marble replica of Michelangelo‘s David in the lobby, then spiraling its way up to a cavalcade of masterworks. The honeycomb stainless steel exterior is jaw dropping, and the collection inside is breathtaking.
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1964 must have been such a celebrated year culturally for CDMX, with this dual-cylinder museum debuting along with its sister, the masterpiece Anthropology Museum. “MAM” is both charming and impressive, welcoming and awe-inspiring. Located in Chapultepec Park, it features an enviable permanent collection with works by Mexican masters, Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera and beyond exhibited in the two circular buildings, joined by a sculpture garden. Inspired temporary exhibitions also dazzle, so much so that repeated visits are recommended for return travelers.
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Frida slept here. She painted masterpieces from her bed. Frail and permanently impaired from an accident in 1925 as she was riding on a bus, she managed as if by a miracle. A steel rod had pierced her 18 year old body like a cruel sword yet somehow, she and her talent survived, living on with the lightness of a butterfly. An angel on this earth–with a paint brush. Her Devine space, known as the Blue House in Coyoacán was her home, her studio and her infirmary. Patti Smith wrote this poem after visiting Frida’s thoughtfully preserved bedside.
I can not walk
I can not see
Further than what
Is in front of me
I lay on my back
yet I do not cry
Transported in space
by the butterflies.
Above my bed
Another sky
With the wings you sent
Within my sight
All pain dissolves
In another light
Transported thru
Time
By the butterfly
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Nestled in the lovely San Angel district, a historical area treasured for its colonial architecture and cobbled streets, “Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo” is the former co-habited home/studio of iconic artists Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. The studio still seems very much abuzz with artwork displayed on easels and the intricate tools, once in the hands of these two artists arranged on tables as if masterworks are underway as we speak. Rivera’s extensive collection of indigenous artwork is on display, just as he left it. The building itself is a work of art, designed in 1929 by Rivera’s friend, architect Juan O’Gorman, in a style that combines traditional Mexican architecture with functionalist design. Enjoy this virtual tour of the property, made possible by the Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes.
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Standout Dining & Imbibing
An ample portion of the delirious pleasure of México City is in its dining and drinking. Just as this metropolis is home to the purest form of the Spanish language, the true essence of Mexican cuisine is borne here. CDMX is the test kitchen where traditional cuisine meets modern experimentation. And that goes for cocktail crafting as well! To top it all off, restaurant design here is theater, be it bohemian or elegant, the inventive staging enlivens each performance. There are SO many greats, but here’s our top three…
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This grand but soft spoken Colonial-era hacienda stretches out in siesta style sensuality, where shaded verandas and verdant courtyard gardens meet like lovers. In this Eden, margaritas are served “up”, poured with pride by the waiter into salt-rimmed martini glasses. One’s replenishment, equal to the first pour, is kept chilled in a silver vile resting on a cloud of crushed ice in one’s own personal-size silver ice bucket. Any pain or suffering that one may have carried in upon arrival, no longer registers as of the 2nd round. I believe this to be the finest margarita in the world. Order the table side Caesar which takes two waiters to whisk and toss to perfection. If more ballast is desired, the menu overfloweth with traditional delights, not to mention memorable desserts. Then there’s the bakery and gift shop!
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Perhaps the most beautiful restaurant anywhere, it rests in the open air courtyard of a 17th-century palace. Your table awaits beneath gestural trees and a soaring vertical wall garden. Chef Ricardo Muñoz Zurita has re-conjured certain moles and salsas that hail from another time in México City, previously unfamiliar even to serious foodies. Zurita’s Mole Negro and his Oaxacan tortilla soup are highlights in our book. Savor this quiet respite, in such contrast with the bustle of Centro just outside these 17th-century walls.
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The best reason to wake up in México City is Rosetta, no matter how bad the jet lag. I could sleepwalk to her subterranean panadaría in Juarez, (and I think I may have! Twice!!) Pajamas are permitted as one slips onto a stool, pondering the fantastic pastry options as they come into focus. You see, these are the best pastries of all time. The real reason to travel to México City? Rosetta pastries. And her delicious cortado will assure a bright-eyed start to your day in CDMX.
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Every sidewalk window, in every part of town seems to be a showcase for local artisan handiwork. This can lead to challenging space concerns with regards to one’s carry-on luggage. Condesa, Roma Norte and Juárez are home to the best curios and antiques. One in particular is Origen México Artesanías. The operators of this tiny but cock-full shop in Juárez should be commended. Their lovely wares are the reward for their work to improve the living conditions of Mexican craftsmen by helping facilitate sales, education and management skills. They work with each artisan to produce products that incorporate innovation, yet preserve strong cultural origins.
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Holiday CDMX
Winter slips in over this 7,000ft metropolis like a feathery duvet, silently warming the sprawl of city life with renewed energy. Mexican tin Christmas trees glimmer and glow from apartment windows while giant multi-pointed stars illuminate the streets as they float over town plazas. Churches seem dipped in gold and outdoor nativity scenes are awash in waves of colored paper flowers. Lovers walk in the long parkways wearing matching santa caps, embracing the charm of the season and the annual promise of peace on earth.
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Half-Day Trips
It’s hard to tell where and when one will find the outskirts of town in this endless population of 9 million+. But, trust us, it’s worth the ride. The great pyramids, the goofy gondolas, and an extraterrestrial orbit of concrete, all just a half-day there and back. So buckle up!
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Known as the "Venice of México," Xochimilco is the home port for gondola-like boats, or “trajineras” that navigate its ancient canal system. (Reality check: This is not a bit like Venice! ;-) Hire a trajinera for a drift through the canals, past floating gardens (chinampas) blooming to the beat of mariachi bands and the call of floating vendors selling food and drinks. Trajineras rent by the hour, with weekend tours geared more to partying and weekday cruising more about nature. Having experienced the vacant boredom of the weekday option, the weekend looks to be a lot more fun. Bring a boatful of friends and drinks and this might actually be great.
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In a Sistine Chapel-like moment in modern art history, the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) became the shrine of (literally) groundbreaking outdoor art, integrated with astonishing architecture. The most famous is the multi-story mosaic murals of Juan O'Gorman, produced in Michelangelo-like incredulity between 1948 and 1955. Wrapping all four sides of the stark library structure, the murals depict key moments of Mexican history and culture. Just to the south, in an ecological reserve, lay an environmental artwork straight out of Kubrick’s 2001 A Space Odyssey. Six sculptors—Federico Silva, Hersúa, Helen Escobedo, Sebastián, Mathias Goeritz, and Manuel Felguérez together imagined and constructed this 120-meter diameter ring of volcanic stone featuring 64 triangular forms arranged in a perfect circle around a field of lava rock. Think Stonehenge–on steroids. Fanning out from the circle is the Sculpture Walk, a sculptors’ nature trail featuring individual (and climbable) large-format sculptures by each of the six “Circle”artists.
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SPOTLIGHT: Teotihuacan Pyramid
The Manhattan of Mesoamerica, this ancient city predates the Aztec Empire by several centuries, –roughly the first half of the first millennium (1 CE to 500 CE).
Teotihuacan was the largest city in the Americas, with a population of at least 25,000, but some estimates have it at 125,000 residents, maybe more. Located 25 miles northeast of México City, it is the most architecturally significant Mesoamerican pyramid in the Americas. Or, more accurately, two pyramids. Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon. 100% worth the drive from CDMX, so long as you wear comfy climbing shoes and good sun protection. Once you come down from the Sun and Moon, a surprisingly good restaurant, La Gruta awaits you underground, in a cave! Light a candle to make a wish after your lunch and head back into town for dinner.
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