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  • KAUAI | Hither & Wander

    The world’s most remote location from any mainland is also the place on earth that receives the most rainfall, (roughly 450 inches per year). But by any measure, the “Garden Isle” is truly the height of exotic, tropical beauty. KAUAI, HAWAII The world’s most remote location from any mainland is also the place on earth that receives the most rainfall, (roughly 450 inches per year). But by any measure, the “Garden Isle” is truly the height of exotic, tropical beauty. FIVE FAVES / KAUAI Kokee State Park 45 miles of the state’s finest hiking trails wind their way through wet forests and dry ledges, leading to sweeping views of Waimea Canyon and the Napali coast. Cliffsides stand like flanks of bayonets, daring the clouds to advance, eventually forcing a surrender of 70 inches of rainfall annually. Kokee road meanwhile weaves up from the west, arriving within a few easy steps of the most incredible view of them all, the Kalalau Lookout . ___ Limahuli Garden and Preserve A misty canyon cradles a self-sustaining, social-ecological practice known to Hawaiians as “Ahupua”. An ancient tradition where land is divided into “pie slice” parcels, starting at the rain-drenched top point of the island, assuring fresh water flows equitably through terraced farms below as each valley widens towards the sea. “The plants, the people and the place” are equal and essential contributors to its well being. This gorgeous garden also nurtures countless endangered native plants and birds. Visitors are welcome. Reservations are advised. ___ Hanalei Bay The day pulls away like a ship. All of us who remain ashore look forward to its colorful return tomorrow. Just moments ago, the departing sun briefly glazed this beach in gold, as if leaving a parting gift. A treasure that quickly vanished into the Hawaiian twilight. ___ Hanalei Pier It may be called a pier but it’s more like a rough hewn temple, or for some a diving board. Reaching out from the shore, this simple walkway leads to the most magnificent view of paradise, where the clouds applaud a brilliant performance as the sun takes a bow. ___ 1 Hotel Hanalei Bay The sea rolls in, lead by a frothy flank of whitecaps advancing into Hanalei Bay, just as a cappuccino rolls in from room service, sporting its own frothy cap. Such are the synergies of the “Garden Isle”, Kauai, at the dreamy 1 Hotel . ___ Yellowfish Trading Company In this portal to old Hawaii, vintage aloha shirts, mid-mod light fixtures, tiki mugs and Hawaiiana treasures fill the shelves. Opened in 1993 after Hurricane Iniki ransacked the island, this little shop helped restore Kauai with some soulful charm. ___ Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge Life along the Hanalei river is Nature’s denizen within reach. Sun bathing turtles mostly ignore the paddling paparazzi, just as resident birds prioritize breakfast over privacy. Tree branches stretch in yoga poses while a breeze whistles Hawaiian tunes through the leaves. Kayak Hanalei ___ Hawaiian Tiki As a guardian of the heiau, (temple) a tiki warrior represents the manifestation of Mana, the ancient Hawaiian belief that spiritual energy flows through all beings and things, balancing power and strength with serenity and dignity. Hand carved Acacia Koa wood tikis by Havaiki Oceanic and Tribal Art Gallery, Hanalei Center ___ Island Farmers Markets Papayas, mangosteens, guavas, passion fruit (AKA lilikoi), coconuts and apple-bananas. Are we in Eden? Even better, it’s the ever-tempting farmers’ markets on Kauai, where local growers gather under neatly arranged tents to sell their home grown wonders. Our bags runneth over at this heavenly outdoor market just past Waioli Huiia church in Hanalei. ___ Anini Beach Light flickers behind craggy tree branches like Balinese puppetry. Along this magical 2 1/2 mile stretch of sand, the water appears calm but it can be swift and strong, especially out near the reef as it shreds the Pacific. A barrier so effective it can turn the tide into a mirror. Daily theatrics that have played for centuries here on Kauai, an island staged at the furthest distance from any mainland. ___ Shave Ice at Kilauea Fish Market Japanese immigrants, who came to the Islands to work in the sugar and pineapple fields in the mid-1800s introduced the concept of kakigori. Meaning shaved ice. They used their tools to shave flakes off large blocks of ice, and then coated it with sugar or fruit juice. In Pidgin vernacular, the refreshing treat became known as shave ice—not shaved ice. (On Hawaii Island, it’s also called “ice shave”.) Eventually, the ice flakes were fashioned with hand-cranked machines; some stores still operate them today. Shave ice is softly mounded in a cup, or sometimes a cone, and generously drizzled with colorful syrups. Some natural, some not. On Kauai, one can enjoy all-natural fruit syrups at The Fresh Shave in Koloa. The delightful specimen shown here features papaya and lilikoi drizzle + a gummy worm, as served at Kilauea Fish Market , who have clearly mastered more than the art of preparing fabulous fish! ___ Allerton Garden Shifting palm shadows brush the window like hands fussing with a long sheer curtain. An antique poster bed and a well-loved Hawaiian quilt suggest the presence of a grandmother, but this is a gentleman’s bedroom. One of two men who lived here, in this island home, together, amid a tropical garden carved out of a sugarcane valley, between the wars, a world away from judgement. Their guests, actors, artists and heiresses arrived from the mainland by ocean liner. The era of modern air travel was still awaiting take off. About the same time that Georgia O’Keefe immersed herself in New Mexico at Ghost Ranch, fully removed from the modern frenzy of Manhattan, Robert and John Gregg Allerton found themselves at home on the island of Kauai. Their hands deep in Hawaiian soil and their toes in the sand. They wore kimonos at cocktail hour and promenaded like peacocks in gardens of their own design. One of which is a formal, four-cornered “room”,—with no ceiling. Instead, a mural of real sky and clouds overhead. At night it became a ballroom, lit by the stars. Outsmarting the rules of a frowning society, they legalized their relationship with the older Robert adopting John as his son, keeping the dream in the family for half a life longer. Upon John’s passing in 1986, this 80 acre botanical fantasy was left in trust for all to enjoy, now managed by the non-profit National Tropical Botanical Garden . Guided tours by reservation. ___ Hanapepe Swinging Bridge Part wooden bridge, part childhood swing, this creaking span outs one’s inner child. Perhaps this is what walking on a cloud feels like—but with less grace. Its cartoon sway animated further by the bravado of a young brat midway across. The return is easier, having acclimated to instability. Back on land, and walking straight again, follow the turn-of-the-century storefronts to Talk Story Bookstore “the westernmost bookstore in the US”. ___ Waimea Plantation Cottages Not far from the entrance to Waimea Canyon, the sun swept west shore of Kauai feels strangely warm and blustery, having come ‘round the island from the rain-slicked east shore. A place to sink one’s toes in the earth tone sand, or glide across the wide lawn, each blade of grass lazily waving aloha to the setting sun. Pass beneath the reach of banyan tree limbs as they strike a pose like mimes. Here, 59 authentic plantation cottages, once home to field workers in the late 1800s, nestle comfortably on 43-acres of tropical oceanfront. Thoughtfully refurbished, these one-to-five-bedroom cottages welcome their guests with comfortable Hawaii-style furniture, fully equipped kitchens and private lanais at surprisingly affordable rates. Like fingerprints from the past, no two cottages are the same, except in charm. ___ Kilauea Lighthouse Lighthouses keep ships from running aground, but this one kept an airplane from being lost at sea. In 1927, five weeks after Lindbergh’s transatlantic triumph, two Army pilots dared a more difficult navigational feat, the first transpacific flight from California to Hawaii. Aloft for a full day and night, the three-engine “Bird of Paradise” approached the islands before dawn. Shockingly, their compass and directional radio receiver both malfunctioned, leaving the pilots to search the darkened void. Just then, a flash from the Kilauea Lighthouse allowed them to recalibrate their position and land safely on Oahu, 25 hours and 50 mins after taking off from Oakland. Today the lighthouse continues to protect actual “birds of paradise” as a stunning National wildlife refuge. ___ Lumahai Beach As we wind down on our time here on the Garden Isle, we ponder its beauty and power, its fragile environment and ferocious sea. The veil of its natural allure often masks potential peril. While Lumahai Beach is the subject of many postcards and paintings, it is also one of the most dangerous beaches for drownings and not recommended for swimming. Admire and respect its stunning wonder but stay clear of the surf. Now we brush off the sand one last time before heading to the airport. But first, one last look, imagining Mitzi Gaynor singing “I’m gonna wash that man right out of my hair” in the 1958 movie “South Pacific”, filmed right here on Lumahai Beach . ___ INSPIRATION : A touch of the islands for your world at home. Tiki Collectables A warrior’s glare looms, his face paint swirling like typhoons. Meet the defender of tropical kitsch and his clan, here to protect-and-serve tiki drinks. Ah, the allure of swarthy and sweet concoctions –in tiki mugs. The fruits of rum-soaked islands, oceans away. But this languid lore is not limited to imbibing. Tiki mugs also make fun vases and/or colorful, sculptural mantle art. Display the whole unruly tribe as a bookshelf collection! Check out the best in rum-punchy porcelain at tikifarm.com . Imagine an eclectic cache of tikis in one’s own humble hale. The spirit(s) of the south seas, right at home. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

  • HOLLYWOOD | Hither & Wander

    Where dreams rise like champagne bubbles ...or languish like shipwrecks. Either way, the allure of this industry town remains irresistible and its imprint indelible. HOLLYWOOD, CALIFORNIA Where dreams rise like champagne bubbles ...or languish like shipwrecks. Either way, the allure of this industry town remains irresistible and its imprint indelible. Paramount Studios Tour Some movie studio tours are like amusement park rides, complete with thrills and spills, but the Paramount Studios Tour is a true backstage pass. This walking-and-golf-cart exploration quickly confirms Paramount as the original home of movie magic, (proudly noting it’s the only major studio with a view of the HOLLYWOOD sign). Right out of the gate, (literally) we’re immersed in film history, as we walk through the very Bronson gate where Norma Desmond, famously declared “without me there wouldn’t be any Paramount Studios!” in the film noir classic “Sunset Boulevard”. The New York backlot is so convincing one might crave a bagel, despite the surreal backdrop of palm trees. Peering into the cavernous darkness of Stage 18 one learns that Alfred Hitchcock poked the floorboards with his walking stick and demanded they be removed to accommodate the tall set for “Rear Window” with its courtyard apartments built to scale. Then there’s Stage 1, where Orson Welles shot “Citizen Kane”. The VIP tour takes you inside the archive vault for a deeper dive into cinematic lore. The grand finale is the fantastic Paramount prop room filled with curiosities one might expect to find in Tim Burton’s garage. ___ Yo-Yo Ma at the Hollywood Bowl Like a clam shell presenting its pearl, the Hollywood Bowl is a treasured gift for great performers and fortunate audiences. Opened in 1929, the concentric arches rising over its iconic stage host the LA Philharmonic’s summer performances as well as a steady stream of stars shining under the evening sky. Here, Cellist Yo-Yo Ma single-handedly captivated the crowd playing the Bach Suites, straight through from memory. A composition written 300 years ago, conjured to life in this stellar setting by a modern master. ___ Once Upon A Time In Hollywood… The oldest restaurant in LA, The Musso & Frank Grill —since 1919 remains largely unchanged after 100+ years, yet is more popular today than ever. Many of the adored staff are “lifer’s”, one of whom, Alonso recently retired after 48 years. It is said that Charlie Chaplin would challenge Douglas Fairbanks to a horse race down Hollywood Boulevard, and the winner had to pick up the tab at Musso’s. Ah, the price of victory! To quote Michael Callahan’s book chronicling its history, “Musso’s became the clubhouse for the most peculiar band of misfits that rotated through Hollywood’s golden age –writers.” F. Scott Fitzgerald proofread his novels at a booth at Musso’s. William Faulkner met his mistress of 20 years here. Raymond Chandler wrote chapters of “The Big Sleep” while sipping cocktails in the Back Room. T.S. Elliot, Aldous Huxley, John Steinbeck and Dorothy Parker all called the Musso’s bar “home” while Anaïs Nin penned some of her diaries on that hallowed wood. Humphrey Bogart stood mesmerized by Lauren Bacall at the bar, and, I personally witnessed a similar swoon as Madonna studied Sean Penn’s eyes in a booth to themselves. TIP: always look into every booth as you’re escorted to your table. Chances are you’ll encounter some very famous faces only slightly hidden behind martini glasses. ___ Cinespia at Hollywood Forever Classic films come back to life under the stars at Hollywood Forever cemetery. Cinespia offers summer weekend screenings, al fresco on the vast Fairbanks Lawn, so named for the adjacent crypt housing both Douglas Fairbanks, Sr. and Jr. An eclectic range of films are projected onto the west wall of the Cathedral Mausoleum, which houses the crypt of Rudolph Valentino among many other notables of celluloid lore. A few steps away, Johnny Ramone plays on from atop his crypt. Bring a picnic blanket and all the trimmings, but come early to stake out your plot! ___ Hollyhock House “With a radical client like Miss Barnsdall, a site like Olive Hill, a climate like California, an architect head on for freedom, something had to happen…” —Frank Lloyd Wright Architect, Frank Lloyd Wright channeled the magnificence of Mayan temples in this 1921 home that transcended all convention for residential design. Rising just above the sparkle of Hollywood, Hollyhock House crowns Olive Hill, now known as Barnsdall Art Park , a gathering place for talent of all ages, origins and interests. Founded by the estate of Aline Barnsdall, the original owner of the home, an eccentric eastern aristocrat with a penchant for the arts. ___ Rooftop Hollywood Several new hotels line the boulevards like Oscars with flat tops. Each one crowned with a jewel sized pool. Up here, the sky becomes a silver screen as the ocean air pulls across. Drinks float on the tattooed arms of waiters who silently recite lines for tomorrow’s audition. Shadows that lounged all day under yellow umbrellas vanish as the sun finds its seat. Thompson Hotel Hollywood The Godfrey Hotel Hollywood Dream Hotels The Everly Hollywood W Hollywood ___ Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel Pool Aqua water quivers like David Hockney brush strokes, mirroring the actual swirls he famously painted on the bottom of the pool here in 1988 with a paintbrush tied to a broom handle. An Olympic sized rectangle that stretches out like swimmer’s legs across a mid century courtyard. The Roosevelt pool deck has seen it all. Debauchery, dreams. deals and divas. Bikinis, mojitos, burgers and fries, all together under the brilliant beige sky, where one’s afternoon plans drift away like pool floats. ___ Hiking Hollywood Griffith Park is the largest municipal park in the US. 50 miles of trails wiggle through folding hillsides that form a diorama of the Southern California landscape, —right in the middle of the city. Here, LA’s best hikes lead to the top of Mt Hollywood where sweeping views to the west crescendo at the edge of the sea. A silver sheen of ocean air softens the horizon, while, off to the east, downtown LA rises like Oz. Four times the size of San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park and five times the size of Central Park in New York, Griffith Park boasts 4300+ acres of rugged, (and often star studded) scenery. ___ Hollywood Mixology A whisper of Vermouth meets the mist of lemon, consummating a classic Hollywood relationship. There’s something about stemware that puts dreams on a pedestal while elevating the moment. Similarly, a ring of sea salt bestows upon a proper Paloma its well deserved crown. The night is young and well served, under the stars at Superba on Sunset, or at the bar at The Musso & Frank Grill or embraced in a sumptuous booth at Mes Amis where your table is set like a movie scene at Thompson Hotel Hollywood . ___ Vetting Hollywood Bette Davis famously quipped when asked what’s the best way for an aspiring actress to get into Hollywood?, “Take Fountain”. Indeed Fountain Ave is the quickest route, but I take Bette’s advice a little further north to “Franklin Ave.”, an east/west thoroughfare stretched like a guitar string across Hollywood. Along the way is Franklin Village, a fun few blocks studded with eclectic gems like Upright Citizens Brigade comedy club, Counterpoint Records & Books , and the essential Daily Planet Newsstand . Park your Corvette in front of Birds Hollywood , a favorite roost for rotisserie chicken lovers since 1994, where one’s pet may also enjoy a proper meal of pulled chicken served in a paper cup. Finally, indulge the “Last Cappuccino before the 101” at Clark Street Diner the classic Hollywood diner, immortalized in the 1996 film "Swingers", just a pancake throw from the almost-hidden Hollywood Freeway on-ramps at Argyle Ave. ___ Ephemeral Glamour Hollywood fame is like makeup. Stunning, and fleeting. Stars shine, until they fade. Some are reborn as lookalikes. Dead stars walking. The boulevard is graced with their likenesses. Painted. Glowing. Some in life-size, some supersized. Some are actually alive, even as they shoot themselves in the foot protesting an improper omelette. Yet still they shine. ___ The HOLLYWOOD Sign In 1923, Los Angeles Times publisher Harry Chandler spent $21,000. to erect a billboard for his hillside real estate development dubbed HOLLYWOODLAND. In contrast with Chandler’s lofty vision, down-on-her-luck actress, Peg Entwistle leapt to her death from atop the “H” in 1932. A decade later, the letters “LAND” met their own demise as the development went belly up, leaving “HOLLYWOOD” spelling out neglect and decay. In 1977, Hugh Hefner hosted a gala fundraiser at the Playboy Mansion, where the Sign letters were auctioned off, one at a time for $27,700 each. Glam-rocker Alice Cooper “bought” an “O” (in honor of Groucho Marx). Gene Autry got an “L” and Andy Williams snatched up the “W.” Thanks to these sponsors, a brand new sign was born in 1978, taking its place in history as the world’s most famous outdoor signage. ___ Hollywood Shadow Project A captivating series of seven installations located throughout the production area of Hollywood projected iconic movie scenes and titles in a whole new light. Late afternoon sunlight passes through these sculptures that resemble old billboards, casting silhouetted shadows onto neighboring buildings at movie screen sizes. Like so much about Hollywood, the fantasy is fleeting, with most of the 2001 sculptures now having been taken down in the process of modernizing tinseltown. Cameron McNall , Architect ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

  • HITHER & WANDER | Unique Travel Resource

    Hither and Wander is a unique travel resource exploring distinct destinations with tips and recommendations. Plus, travel lifestyle ideas including home decor and international recipes. Unique Travel Resource Best private beach to visit, Stiniva Beach, Vis, Croatia by top travel guide Hither and Wander Unique Travel Resource Beautiful sunset view at Mont Saint-Michel castle in Brittany, France by best travel blog Unique Travel Resource The best season to travel, gorgeous autumn leaves at the temple gates in Kyoto, Japan by top travel blog Unique Travel Resource Best private beach to visit, Stiniva Beach, Vis, Croatia by top travel guide Hither and Wander 1/15 Awa y to discover. Journey with us as we explore dist inct d estinations . Discover our favorite picks, tips and travel- inspired ideas for your world at home. Come hither , and wander with us! EXPLORE DESTINATIONS C O N S U L T I N G Creative consulting for hospitality, travel and lifestyle brands. LEARN MORE JOIN OUR NEWSLETTER Away to connect. An exclusiv e page of seasonal travel tips and lifestyle ideas o nly available in our newsletter when you join ! EMAIL SUBSCRIBE Thanks for subscribing! As a creative director in global travel publishing, I focus on the sensory experiences that make a journey memorable. Collaborations with award-winning writers and photographers sharpened my vision in creating this collection, mostly shot on my iPhone. — Haines Wilkerson Founder READ MORE FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @hitherandwander @hitherandwander Load More

  • PRIVACY POLICY | Hither & Wander

    PRIVACY POLICY All content provided on this website www.hitherandwander.com is for informational purposes only. We make no representations as to the accuracy, completeness or availability of any information and are not liable for any errors or omissions. Nor are we liable for any losses, injuries, or damages from use of this information. The content of this website (unless otherwise stated) is covered by copyright. If you would like to republish our writing or use our images please get in touch at info@hitherandwander.com. We may collect personal information from you such as your name or email address. For example, you may voluntarily submit information to the website by subscribing to a newsletter or submitting a contact form. We automatically collect certain information about you and the device with which you access the website. For example, when you use the website, we will log your IP address, operating system type, browser type, referring website, pages you viewed, and the dates/times when you accessed the website. We may also collect information about actions you take when using the website, such as links clicked. COOKIES We may log information using cookies, which are small data files stored on your browser by the website. We may use both session cookies, which expire when you close your browser, and persistent cookies, which stay on your browser until deleted, to provide you with a more personalized experience on the website. HOW WE USE YOUR INFORMATION We may use the information collected in the following ways: To send newsletter & updates, personalized with your name; To present, monitor and respond to your comments and inquiries; To operate, maintain and track usage of the website; To protect the website from unauthorized or illegal activity. We do not sell any personal information. GOOGLE ANALYTICS This service tracks website usage and provides information such as referring websites and user actions on the website. Google Analytics records your IP address, but no other personal information. The information presented to us is always non-personal and aggregated. SENSITIVE PERSONAL INFORMATION At no time should you submit sensitive personal information to the website. This includes your social security number, information regarding race or ethnic origin, political opinions, religious beliefs, health information, criminal background, or trade union memberships. If you elect to submit such information to us, it will be subject to this Privacy Policy. RIGHTS YOU HAVE OVER YOUR PERSONAL INFORMATION Each user has the right to access the personal data we hold and ask us to edit or delete that data. OPT-OUT You may opt-out of future email communications by following the unsubscribe links in our emails. You may also notify us at info@hitherandwander.com to be removed from our mailing list. ACCESS You may access the personal information we have about you by submitting a request to info@hitherandwander.com . AMEND You may contact us at info@hitherandwander.com to amend or update your personal information (including any comments made). FORGET In certain situations, you may request that we erase or forget your personal data (including any comments made). To do so, please submit a request to info@hitherandwander.com. Please note that we may need to retain certain information for record-keeping purposes or to complete transactions, or when required by law. YOUR ACCEPTANCE OF THESE TERMS By using the website, you signify your acceptance of this policy. If you do not agree to this policy, please do not use the website. Your continued use of the website following the posting of changes to this policy will be deemed your acceptance of those changes. CONTACT INFORMATION If you have any questions about our Privacy Policy, please get in touch with us at info@hitherandwander.com

  • FIVE FAVES / KAUAI | Hither & Wander

    Our top five favorite things to do in the Garden Isle, Kaua'i, Hawai'i 1 Limahuli Garden This misty garden nurtures countless endangered native plants and birds in the self-sustaining, social-ecological practice known to Hawaiians as "Ahupua". Reservations are advised. KAUAI, HI 2 Kokee State Park 45 miles of easy hiking trails wind their way to sunny cliff-sides with sweeping views of Waimea Canyon and the Napali coast, and the most stunning vista of all, the Kalalau Lookout. KAUAI, HI 3 Hanalei Pier This unassuming concrete path leads to a tin roof gazebo with an epic view of paradise. A rough hewn temple of sorts that welcomes all to stand and gaze –or to use as a diving board! KAUAI, HI 4 Waimea Plantation Cottages 59 authentic plantation cottages from the 1800’s welcome your stay in comfortable Hawaiian style, at surprisingly affordable rates. KAUAI, HI 5 Talk Story Books “The westernmost bookstore in the US” is perched like its resident cat on the edge of Kauai, greeting readers from all over the globe –with aloha. KAUAI, HI Back FIVE FAVES Next

  • ALGARVE | Hither & Wander

    Glazed in the light of centuries past, this launching pad to the Age of Discoveries is lined with dramatic bluffs resembling fortress walls, yet far more welcoming. The warmth of the southern sunlight still illuminates dreams like those of the 16th Century explorers who set sail from these shores. ALGARVE, PORTUGAL Glazed in the light of centuries past, this launching pad to the Age of Discoveries is lined with dramatic bluffs resembling fortress walls, yet far more welcoming. The warmth of the southern sunlight still illuminates dreams like those of the 16th Century explorers who set sail from these shores. Seaborne Inspiration The villages of Luz, Salema and Lago lay nestled along Albufeira coastline, as if borne of the sea. Patterns and colors of the tides decorate local homes and shops while cafes serve up its bounty as an art form. Below the craggy cliffs, the ocean swirls in turquoise, as the squinting sun reveals miles of beaches as far as the eyes can see. ___ The Ultimate Catch Rows of umbrellas mimic the arrangement of neighboring 19th century terracotta octopus traps on the beach at Salema. As vacationers nest in circles of shade, unwitting octopus slide into these amphora shaped shelters lying in wait on the sea floor. As they have since Phoenician times, Portuguese fishermen haul in the long ropes attached to these vases, along with their tentacled catch inside, soon becoming the day’s menu staple. ___ Island of Childlike Delight The island of Armona is like a child’s toy village where every structure along its single boardwalk seems to have been built at 7/8th’s scale. Originally the rustic roost of weathered fishermen, these old abodes now serve as the vacation homes of artists, musicians and other alternative raconteurs. ___ Star(fish) Trek A charming sand-swept beach bar, located at a definitive bend in the boardwalk offers a delicious reason to stop midway on one’s trek to the shore. All necessities and luxuries are delivered via this narrow path, including drinking water to the colorful array of former fishermen shacks. ___ Olhão, Yes! Back on the mainland, along this southern shore where Portugal bends to meet up with Spain, one discovers the cultural and culinary delights of Olhão and Tavira. These seaside towns are dotted with artisan shops and cafes so quaint one wishes they could be packed into our suitcases as well as our memories. ___ Portuguese Pavement Portugal is the one destination where visitors are encouraged not to look up as much as down because one mustn’t miss the intricate mosaic detail in the tiled streets, sidewalks and plazas. Calcada Portuguesa or “Portuguese Pavement” is the country’s signature design element. A treasured artisan trade that originated in Lisbon, and soon paved its way into every town, including Olhão where a father and son scurry home across one of many calcada showcases. ___ Southern Comfort The Rio Guadiana divides Portugal from Spain here on Europe’s southern shore like a slow-moving sword blade through sand. Both sides look similarly bleak, like a Wim Wenders landscape, however, some unexpectedly dreamy, beachy pockets lay just past the warehouses on Avenida Ville La Baule. The fresh fish and perfect fries at Dom Petisco on the river’s edge is, in itself, worth the drive to this end of Portugal. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

  • SPLIT | Hither & Wander

    Roman splendor in a modern port city greets seafarers arriving with stories and suntans from the nearby Dalmatian Islands. SPLIT, PORTUGAL Roman splendor in a modern port city greets seafarers arriving with stories and suntans from the nearby Dalmatian Islands. Palace Coup In this bustling port city, modern automobiles and streamlined ships meet Roman antiquity. “Soldiers” in red and gold regalia enliven the piazzas along the waterfront where the skyline is punctuated with ancient columns like in Rome. The city was originally an ancient palace built for the Roman emperor Diocletian at the turn of the fourth century AD. Half for him and half for an army garrison. The “palace” forms about half the old town of Split. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

  • PARIS | Hither & Wander

    A curated list of what not to miss. This is The City of Lights, not just because of its nighttime glow, but because of the illumination it brings to one’s heart and mind. PARIS, FRANCE A curated list of what not to miss. This is The City of Lights, not just because of its nighttime glow, but because of the illumination it brings to one’s heart and mind. FIVE FAVES / PARIS Musée Rodin If there’s one tip I can confidently impart to those visiting (or residing in) Paris it is the Musée Rodin at sundown, just before they close for the day. Sunlight pours like Viognier through the tall windows, glazing the walls with diagonal stripes, while draping the bare musculature of Rodin’s subjects in form-fitting couture light. The storied residence of sculptor Auguste Rodin is veiled in a lace of shadows as late sunlight sketches fleeting patterns across the room. Faces that the artist suspended in time a hundred years ago look away as the sun finds a place to rest in the garden until tomorrow. ___ Parc de la Villette Architect Bernard Tschumi designed the Parc de la Villette, with the intention of creating “a space that exists in a vacuum”, something without historical precedent, to allow for the existence of a “non-place” based on “culture” rather than “nature.” The design of the park is a groundbreaking example of architectural deconstructivism. “By allowing visitors to experience the architecture of the park within this constructed vacuum, the time and activities that take place in that space begin to acquire a more vivid and authentic nature.” In simpler terms, it’s big, open and not at all structured like the Parisian parks of old. La Géode in the Sciences Center is an otherworldly mirrored dome housing an Omnimax theatre. ___ Paris Philharmonic Designed by Jean Nouvel, the new home of the Paris Philharmonic is renowned for its near perfect acoustics. The convulsing metallic exterior with interlocking MC Escher-esque patterns looks alive in the changing daylight and luminous at night. It is one of several civic music facilities located within Parc de la Villette . ___ Crepes as Art In the right hands, crepes become “origami”. Gently flipped and folded, a paper-thin circle of buckwheat becomes sculptural rapture, be it savory or sweet. This artwork also serves as sustenance for those seeking rest and replenishment midway up the steep hillside climb to Sacré Coeur. I recommend one such haven from those unforgiving stairs, where works of creperie art are rendered daily: Rozell Café & Creperie , Montmartre. ___ Pinault Collection Presented in the rotunda of the reimagined Bourse de Commerce , a group of monumental sculptures composed of wax, each with candles inside are lit on the first day of the exhibition. As the candles melt, the sculptures gradually disintegrate, sending faces, arms and other appendices crashing to the gallery floor, which, in turn become part of the exhibit. The renovated space is itself a work of art by Japanese architect Tadao Ando that is nothing short of spectacular. Multiple galleries now ring the 1800’s building in modern art, forming the latest must-see art venue in Paris. Untitled (2011) by Swiss artist Urs Fischer ___ Le Louvre If the sky were not dark you’d swear it was daylight. Such is the ambiance of an evening in the twin courtyards of Le Louvre . A glow that takes your breath away when stepping through the arched gateways into this sanctum of light. Cellos and flutes resonate in the open corridors, played by lone musicians hoping that a passerby’s euros will alight upon their performance. ___ Morning Light in St. Germain Saint Germain des Prés is a neighborhood that connotes masterpiece scenes of the Left Bank. The obsession of every self guided art tour of Paris. Where poets, artists and philosophers famously conversed at Café Flore over the roar of possibilities. Yet, here inside the church, a centuries old stillness is anointed in the colors of stained glass. A reverence so hushed one can almost hear the candles fluttering, or the prayers for which they burn. The brilliant author and musician, Patti Smith was recently in Paris on tour with her reunited band and posted a brief description of her morning walk: “I lit candles in the St Germain church for the children of the world, and then went to say hello to Picasso’s tribute to his friend, the poet Apollinaire, that beautiful head of Dora Maar (in the rear garden of the church) near Café de Flore.” Ah, a morning inspired by Patti Smith here where Sartre and Camus once philosophized over coffee in the fabled Left Bank of Paris. ___ Le Musée d’Orsay France has a love of art, and walks the walk to support it. In 1975, it was determined that a new museum was needed to represent the arts from the second half of the 19th century. At the same time, a retired Beaux-Arts train station was about to be demolished when visionary preservationists spoke up. Et voilà, the proposed museum and the rescued “gare” became one. Today, Le Musée d’Orsay is one of the world’s most inspired art spaces, housing artworks so famous and fabulous it weakens the knees. But its crescendo is the great clock window on the fifth floor. As cinematic and startling as a Hitchcock storyboard, this watch-work window provides the ultimate photo location and a sweeping view from the Seine to Sacré Coeur. ___ Le Centre Pompidou In making one’s way through the Marais neighborhood in Paris, the narrow stone streets suddenly widen like gates opening onto a fanciful world of color and form as Le Centre Pompidou comes into view. Renzo Piano’s early and revolutionary work literally turned architecture inside out by placing the traditionally hidden mechanical parts of a structure on the outside, forming what appears to be a wild bionic beast crouching in the middle of a 17th century village. A friendly beast though, with wonderful qualities. A generous art aficionado with room in his heart to share inspiration with architecture lovers on their pilgrimage to one of the great cultural venues of our time. ___ Le Jardin du Luxembourg With one’s first step into this grandest of all Paris gardens, Le Jardin du Luxembourg , the clammer of the 6th arrondissement quickly fades. The world itself, seems subdued into silence, except for the lapping of fountains. Ancient sculptures stand frozen in their moment, concealing centuries they’ve seen go by. Today, flowers overflow their urns while dreamers contort into green metal chairs, watching the daylight move across the formal garden like a lazy sundial. Images : The Medici Fountain was built in 1630 by Marie de’ Medici. "L'effort" bronze sculpture by Pierre Roche (1855-1922). Toy sailboats navigate the Central Fountain. 5 euros for 30 minutes of sailing. ___ INSPIRATION : A touch of France for your world at home. The French Boulle Desk My office is anchored in 19th century splendor from Napoleon III’s France, (but I acquired it in this century from Nickey/Kehoe ). This over-the-top desk is described in design parlance as “clean and classical, standing on fluted legs and decorated with brass inlays in motifs of the Louis XVI style.” Despite its “let them eat cake” appearance, the desk is actually quite utilitarian. Hidden within its deceivingly compact size, it boasts a massive single drawer that slips away unnoticed amid the frufru. Tucked into the tight quarters of a Paris hotel in St. Germain, a helpful concierge plans out one’s day in the 6th arrondissement, executed in exquisite detail on a petit, black lacquer Boulle desk with added privacy panel. Back at home, a Boulle desk functions as a sort of personal concierge, providing an inspired place for charting life between travels. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

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