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A travel journal exploring the personality of places, focusing on distinct destinations and curated highlights. A travel journal exploring distinct destinations and curated highlights—with more coming soon! Also see FIVE FAVES , our top five picks in the places we love. Explore from A-Z by CITY. ALGARVE, PORTUGAL BIG BEAR LAKE, CA BRITTANY, FRANCE CA ROUTE 66 CAVTAT, CROATIA COIMBRA, PORTUGAL DOURO RIVER, PORTUGAL DUBROVNIK, CROATIA EVORA, PORTUGAL HOLLYWOOD, CA, US KAUAI, HAWAII KOTOR, MONTENEGRO KYOTO, JAPAN LISBON, PORTUGAL MÉXICO CITY, MÉXICO NICE, FRANCE OAHU, HAWAII OMIS, CROATIA PARIS, FRANCE PORTO, PORTUGAL PROVENCE, FRANCE SALTON SEA, CA (NEW) SINTRA, PORTUGAL SPLIT, PORTUGAL SVETI STEFAN, MONTENEGRO

Down near the Mexican border, some 236 feet below sea level, a once-vast lake lies adrift in the desert like a fading mirage. SALTON SEA, CA Down near the Mexican border, some 236 feet below sea level, a once-vast lake appears adrift in the desert like a fading mirage. In the early 1900s, a breach in two irrigation canals sent the entire volume of the Colorado River pouring onto a dry lake bed then known as the “Salton Sink.” Biblical-style flooding followed, surging unabated for nearly two years. Decades later, runoff from “seaside” farms flowed into the lake, regularly replenishing this improbable paradise. BOMBAY BEACH One hour down Highway 111 from Palm Springs — just past Mecca — lies the almost-ghost town of Bombay Beach, a rough-hewn holy land where art is religion, gilded in rust. A five-by-eight-block rectangle of ruins and renewal, population: 224. On every block, artists have repurposed broken trailers and vacant houses into graffiti-clad art galleries. ___ PERMANENT EPHEMERA Back in the Rat Pack era, celebrities water-skied right up to the “Ski Inn,” a jovial dive bar that still serves cocktails and home cooking despite the shrinking shoreline, now barely visible in the distance. Along the beach, surreal ruins stand mired in the landscape like a mud version of Pompeii — a testament to the relentless rains of the 1970s that suddenly swelled the lake and swallowed the town. Yet today, the enclave is rising again from the dust and cracked clay, repurposing desolation into a blank canvas for creative expression. ___ BOMBAY BEACH BIENNALE “The Bombay Beach Biennale is a renegade celebration of art, music, and philosophy that takes place on the literal edge of Western civilization—the shores of the Salton Sea. It was founded in 2015 as a public arts event untethered from the commercial art world of galleries, museums, and art fairs, and as a tool to amplify the largely unknown and ignored ecological crisis of the Salton Sea.” — Bombay Beach Biennale The Biennale is an entirely free and public happening. Everything is open to anyone who can find their way to Bombay Beach. Weekly programming includes workshops, music and dance performances, open-air opera, film screenings, and outdoor art installations. “While in season, the Bombay Beach Biennale transforms the abandoned housing, vacant lots, and decaying shoreline of the Salton Sea into a unique canvas for creative expression, social practice, and critical thought.” This includes a “drive-in theater” by artists Stefan Ashkenazy and Sean Dale Taylor, who gathered rusted cars from Imperial Valley scrap yards and “parked” them facing a movie screen—aka the side of a semi-trailer painted white. The official “Biennale Season” starts on January 1 each year and concludes with a celebratory weekend in the spring, the exact dates of which are spread only by word of mouth. There are Airbnb options, as well as ample outdoor space for tent camping and RVs. Come enjoy high art at the lowest point in America. ___ FINDING SALVATION More than 100,000 gallons of paint and 22 years of toil were devoted to one man’s mission of love. Leonard Knight was part artist, part evangelist, and part dreamer who walked the walk — and he could hoist a hay bale up a two-story ladder by himself! Hay bales were to him what giant stones were to the ancient Egyptians. But rather than a pyramid, Leonard built a mountain out of adobe clay mixed with hay, then painted it with scenes of rivers, waterfalls, flowers, and proclamations that “God Is Love.” Image courtesy of salvationmountain.org He maintained that “love is the strongest force on Earth” and was determined to get that message out for the world to see. Thus began his mission to build Salvation Mountain, complete with a painted yellow brick road leading to giant 3-D letters at its peak spelling out “GOD IS LOVE.” His masterpiece also includes an adobe “igloo” supported by a “tree pillar” made of stacked truck tires and found branches — its interior, of course, decorated in his signature colors-of-love style. Located on the outskirts of Niland, near Slab City, Salvation Mountain is open to all, from dawn to dusk. ___ SAVE OUR SEA The Salton Sea is beautiful but tragic. Pollution from agricultural runoff and other factors has rendered its beauty unsafe. Nearly twice as salty as the Pacific Ocean, it is now largely avoided by both native and migrating wildlife. It is evaporating faster than it can be replenished and may literally become a mirage in the not-so-distant future. And then there’s the airborne toxic dust kicked up from its now-dry shoreline that can reach Palm Springs and even Los Angeles. Conservation efforts to establish new wetlands offer some hope, while bolder proposals to refill the Salton Sea using water from the Sea of Cortez dare us to dream of a renewed and flourishing paradise — like the version where Frank Sinatra and Desi Arnaz vacationed a half-century ago. Salton Sea Conservancy ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Hither and Wander is a unique travel resource exploring distinct destinations with tips and recommendations. Plus, travel lifestyle ideas including home decor and international recipes. Unique Travel Resource Best private beach to visit, Stiniva Beach, Vis, Croatia by top travel guide Hither and Wander Unique Travel Resource Beautiful sunset view at Mont Saint-Michel castle in Brittany, France by best travel blog Unique Travel Resource The best season to travel, gorgeous autumn leaves at the temple gates in Kyoto, Japan by top travel blog Unique Travel Resource Best private beach to visit, Stiniva Beach, Vis, Croatia by top travel guide Hither and Wander 1/15 Awa y to discover. Journey with us as we explore dist inct d estinations . Discover our favorite picks, tips and travel- inspired ideas for your world at home. Come hither , and wander with us! EXPLORE DESTINATIONS C O N S U L T I N G Creative consulting for hospitality, travel and lifestyle brands. LEARN MORE JOIN OUR NEWSLETTER Away to connect. An exclusiv e page of seasonal travel tips and lifestyle ideas o nly available in our newsletter when you join ! EMAIL SUBSCRIBE Thanks for subscribing! As a creative director in global travel publishing, I focus on the sensory experiences that make a journey memorable. Collaborations with award-winning writers and photographers sharpened my vision in creating this collection, mostly shot on my iPhone. — Haines Wilkerson Founder READ MORE FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @hitherandwander @hitherandwander Load More

Glazed in the light of centuries past, this launching pad to the Age of Discoveries is lined with dramatic bluffs resembling fortress walls, yet far more welcoming. The warmth of the southern sunlight still illuminates dreams like those of the 16th Century explorers who set sail from these shores. ALGARVE, PORTUGAL Glazed in the light of centuries past, this launching pad to the Age of Discoveries is lined with dramatic bluffs resembling fortress walls, yet far more welcoming. The warmth of the southern sunlight still illuminates dreams like those of the 16th Century explorers who set sail from these shores. Seaborne Inspiration The villages of Luz, Salema and Lago lay nestled along Albufeira coastline, as if borne of the sea. Patterns and colors of the tides decorate local homes and shops while cafes serve up its bounty as an art form. Below the craggy cliffs, the ocean swirls in turquoise, as the squinting sun reveals miles of beaches as far as the eyes can see. ___ The Ultimate Catch Rows of umbrellas mimic the arrangement of neighboring 19th century terracotta octopus traps on the beach at Salema. As vacationers nest in circles of shade, unwitting octopus slide into these amphora shaped shelters lying in wait on the sea floor. As they have since Phoenician times, Portuguese fishermen haul in the long ropes attached to these vases, along with their tentacled catch inside, soon becoming the day’s menu staple. ___ Island of Childlike Delight The island of Armona is like a child’s toy village where every structure along its single boardwalk seems to have been built at 7/8th’s scale. Originally the rustic roost of weathered fishermen, these old abodes now serve as the vacation homes of artists, musicians and other alternative raconteurs. ___ Star(fish) Trek A charming sand-swept beach bar, located at a definitive bend in the boardwalk offers a delicious reason to stop midway on one’s trek to the shore. All necessities and luxuries are delivered via this narrow path, including drinking water to the colorful array of former fishermen shacks. ___ Olhão, Yes! Back on the mainland, along this southern shore where Portugal bends to meet up with Spain, one discovers the cultural and culinary delights of Olhão and Tavira. These seaside towns are dotted with artisan shops and cafes so quaint one wishes they could be packed into our suitcases as well as our memories. ___ Portuguese Pavement Portugal is the one destination where visitors are encouraged not to look up as much as down because one mustn’t miss the intricate mosaic detail in the tiled streets, sidewalks and plazas. Calcada Portuguesa or “Portuguese Pavement” is the country’s signature design element. A treasured artisan trade that originated in Lisbon, and soon paved its way into every town, including Olhão where a father and son scurry home across one of many calcada showcases. ___ Southern Comfort The Rio Guadiana divides Portugal from Spain here on Europe’s southern shore like a slow-moving sword blade through sand. Both sides look similarly bleak, like a Wim Wenders landscape, however, some unexpectedly dreamy, beachy pockets lay just past the warehouses on Avenida Ville La Baule. The fresh fish and perfect fries at Dom Petisco on the river’s edge is, in itself, worth the drive to this end of Portugal. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Romanced by the Douro river's embrace, Porto is a melange of modern living and Medieval beauty. PORTO, PORTUGAL Youthful spirit meets an ancient past in this picturesque Portuguese city. Romanced by the Douro river’s embrace, Porto is a melange of modern living and Medieval beauty. FIVE FAVES / PORTO City of Bridges A most appropriate moniker, as visitors will quickly discover, the two sides of Porto are laced together with bridges. One bridge is seemingly from the future, and right next to it, a Victorian era crossing leaps and swoons over the water. Designed as clifftop crossings, they ironically draw just as many passerby down into their shadows at the river’s edge. The most famous is the Dom Luis I bridge, a steel lacing that forms the backdrop of Porto. ___ Architectural Expressionism Arches, swirls, flower-petal patterns, all part of the whimsy elegance of Porto’s many architectural styles. So many floral and geometric motifs on incomprehensibly expansive tile mosaics and friezes, but no heroes are depicted. Why? Because the Moors held true to Islamic law and avoided portraying false icons. But there is no shortage of expressive forms in the wide variety of architectural vision that is Porto. ___ Perfect Perch The Portuguese have yet to meet a rooftop they don’t like. A table with a view is a Porto pleasure, even as a cat performs a high wire act along the edge. With a flying leap, he darts between the stylish boots of our waitress as she’s refilling our glasses while translating the menu. Afterwards there’s Parque dos Clerigos to stretch out in under the stars, listen to music and maybe think about tomorrow. Plans that may include visiting the Livraria Lello bookstore , (inspiration for Harry Potter’s Hogwarts) directly across from the park. (But only if there’s no line, which is quite unlikely). ___ Sunset Extraordinaire The view from the high ground of Jardim de Morro at sundown is an image that never leaves one’s heart. The park is terraced with curving concrete benches formed to the contour of the hillside, hosting the wise few who leave the bustle of the old town to cross the Rua General Torres bridge for this sublime vista. Maybe taking a slight detour to pick up some wine and cheese to enhance the moment at Dourum Restaurante just below the bridge on the quiet south waterfront. ___ Cliffside Thrill Ride Not for the faint of heart, (but worth it for the thrill –and the view) descending the cliff aboard the Funicular dos Guindais cable car is a Porto must. After strolling the high bridges across the river, it's the fastest and most fun way to reach the riverfront promenade. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Walk along the waterfront where the sea sparkles brightly between the hulls of yachts and the stemware of several Aperol Spritz. There are few places this near to perfection. CAVTAT, CROATIA Walk along the waterf ront where the sea sparkles brightly between the hulls of yachts and the stemware of several Aperol Spritz. There are few places this near to perfection. Waterfront Fantasy It’s all too easy to miss this small seaport village, just south of its more famous neighbor, Dubrovnik, but once we stumbled onto it, we fell straight into its charms. So began a memorable afternoon romance with a tall and handsome Aperol Spritz, or was it two? We asked our waitress if she knew of any nearby hotels and she pointed to an old inn a few steps away. Hotel Bracka Perla Supetar . We got the last room and cancelled our hotel in Dubrovnik. Then walked around the waterfront in an extended daze amid the dusk light, at one point crossing paths with a flag waving wedding party promenading to the church. ___ SPOTLIGHT: Konoba Koraceva Kuca (11 miles south of Cavtat) An alfresco meal in the courtyard at Konoba Kora c eva Ku c a in Gruda serves the senses like a daydream. Vineyards stretch out from the gravel terrace, as clouds fluffed like tablecloths assemble overhead. A light rosé, aged in cellars from across the valley starts off this story, soon followed by fresh, local fare cooked on an outdoor wood stove, its rich smoke rising to entice the sky. Nestle into your seat because you’re going to be here for a lovely, long while. Across the courtyard, a woman lights a bundle of twigs in the outdoor brick kitchen that will soon grill your fresh fish. Back at the terrace table, overlooking the languid vineyard and soaring mountains beyond, your glass is filled with crisp Croatian white wine, poured with pride by a sinewy waiter who is excited to recite today’s specials in newly-honed English. Each course outdoes the previous. Cheeses arrive first, crowned with a snip of fresh basil. Next, a pillowy butter lettuce salad is tossed with olive oil and slices of apple and nectarine. Then, herbed gnocchi that melts into your dreams. Today’s catch of sea bass floats in, grilled to succulent perfection. Post-nirvana, a flourless almond and citrus cake comes blessed with a crescent of lavender ice cream. Now, in a form of heaven, just walk the garden, to breathe and to ponder such delights. Konoba Koraceva Kuca Korac street, 20215, Gruda, Croatia Phone: +385 20 791 557 ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Mystical and mythical, this rolling landscape reaches the roiling sea where history reigns with steadfast pride. The architecture of ancient times fully at home in the present. BRITTANY, FRANCE Mystical and mythical , this rolling landscape reaches the roiling sea where history reigns with steadfast pride. The architecture of ancient times fully at home in the present. Mont Saint-Michel One may spot this soaring pinnacle on the horizon well before reaching the sea that surrounds it at high tide. We first saw it rising above the inland corn fields, its spires reaching up as if to touch the last cloud of a clearing storm. Inside its fortress walls a tiny medieval town terraces upward to the Abbey that crowns the island like a tiara. The inspiration to build a cathedral in such a perilous place, atop a remote rock formation off the Normandy coast, came to Bishop Saint-Aubert in a recurrent dream in 708 AD, eventually realized in all its rustic majesty. We stayed the night on the island and witnessed the evening tide swallow up the vast sandbar below, along with the day’s messages etched by visitors. By sunrise, the sea had pulled back, revealing a blank slate ready for more sand scribes. The ancient stone walls warming now as the morning shadows retreat. ___ “All The Light We Cannot See” in St. Malo "Open your eyes and see what you can with them before they close forever." —from the novel, “All The Light We Cannot See” by Anthony Doerr, which takes place during the Nazi occupation of France, featuring a young blind girl, who flees war torn Paris to shelter with her uncle in St. Malo. This walled Medieval city on the northern shore of Brittany has endured loss beyond measure, but stands as a symbol of resilience. Bombed beyond recognition during World War II, it rose again to crown the coastline with slender spires, scalloped rooftops and fierce ramparts, all of which now house shops, restaurants and boulangeries, inviting a steady stream of curious visitors. ___ Night and Day in Dinan Rain-slicked cobblestones reflect the warm windows and lanterns of another age, paving a silver night in gold. In any light, Dinan is a hidden treasure in northwestern France, just upstream from St. Malo, at a bend on the Rance river. Incredible to think that this narrow waterfront was once a major port when trading vessels from England and Holland were compact-sized. By the 13th century, as ships grew larger, St Malo’s wide port was developed to take on the job —and the goods. Meanwhile, Dinan grew up gracefully behind stone fortifications, protecting her half-timbered Brittany beauty for future generations, like ours. The sun forces through a persistent rain as one mythical god tries to outdo the other, neither taking into account how easily a rainbow could steal their show. Nonetheless, the exchange continues, presenting village scenes of Dinan in contrasts of squinting brilliance and dampened shadows. Like a watercolor in progress, crisp edges of shops and churches meet the blurred wash of medieval alleyways, forming the image of a place stilled in time. ___ Taden Day Dream The town of Taden is so soft spoken on the map that one might miss it entirely if it weren’t for a dramatic widening of the Rance river at the foot of the village. A landmark easily mistaken for a lake, its calm, mirrored water reaches across the landscape beckoning boaters, kayakers, hikers and day dreamers. ___ Menhir (Stone) of Saint Samson Rising eight phallic meters above nondescript farmland is a granite Stonehenge-like loner, pitched at a 42 degree angle, its four sides aligned to the points of the compass. The nearest source of granite is 4km away, which means a lot of prehistoric muscle was employed to get it here. Archeologists surmise that this “menhir” marked the furthest point inland where the (then) highest tide would reach. Legend has it that if anyone pulls the stone out, seawater will come bubbling up and inundate all of France in a biblical-size flood. Best to look, but not pull! ___ Parc du Thabor, Rennes Rennes, the capital city of Brittany in northwestern France is a sunny college town with a perfect park at its center. The graceful rambles of Parc du Thabor trace the urban hillside, rendering each season into a changing exhibit of color, texture and form. This heart of Bretagne also serves as the main depot for the TGV high speed rail from Paris. >>All aboard! ___ Pointe du Grouin All roads in Britanny eventually reach a quaint town or a sweeping seashore. Both serve great food! At the craggy, end-of-the-earth looking Pointe de Grouin, the sea provides an alfresco bounty that brings out the locals as well as tourists. They depart united in delirious bliss, with some overachievers suffering a temporary food coma and/or sunstroke. But worth it! ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Leaves scurry in a rushed swirl across the stone steps leading up to the temple gates as the city fades behind us. In any season, Kyoto is a dream, but seen in fall color, one knows their visit was perfectly timed. KYOTO, JAPAN Leaves scurry in a rushed swirl across the stone steps leading up to the temple gates as the city fades behind us. In any season, Kyoto is a dream, but seen in fall color, one knows their visit was perfectly timed. FIVE FAVES / KYOTO Living Zen Each footprint vanishes into the grooves of rhythmic circles, as a zen gardener pulls his broom methodically through the gravel, creating linear grooves designed to promote stillness in the viewer's mind. Deeply part of Japanese living and culture, zen gardens were first established in the 13th Century as a place for monks to meditate Buddha's teachings. Here, at the stunning Ginkaku-ji Temple , this art form is maintained daily –a practice, in itself a meditation. ___ Kyoto Through a Veil Sunlight dapples the ground, highlighting an array of colorful leaves that have quietly found their seat. A playful breeze rustles the scene, rearranging the pattern in an ongoing evolution. Kyoto, as seen through the veil of fall, is as red as apples and cherries. So different a picture than the countless white blossoms exhibited in these exact same trees just two seasons ago. A recurrent joy for the wide-eyed visitor. The glazed rooftops of the Enkouji Temple appear like steps that follow the hillside slope toward the glow of central Kyoto. Like a lantern, the town beckons the eye, even if the heart begs to stay here on this elevated plain, bathed in fall color and steeped in enlightenment. ___ Light + Space = Tranquility The essence of Japanese architectural design is minimalism, effortlessly at one with the outside landscape. Walls of rice paper panes glide between the floor and ceiling in a widened embrace of the view, while softened sunlight illuminates the room through the parchment diffusion. The outside enters like a welcome guest, framed in perfect proportion to the interior space. From the tranquil Honen-in Temple , to a bustling Blue Bottle Coffee Cafe , Kyoto is home to this timeless design practice, so comfortable in its place, as if ordained by nature. ___ Japanese Joinery Centuries before the advent of screws and metal fasteners, Japanese builders developed ways to adjoin wooden beams in the construction of buildings that would stand for generations. Intricately carved “male” ends of posts and beams are joined with geometrically, matching female ends to create load-bearing bracing. Nowhere is this engineering art form more evident than in the Anraku-ji Temple . Look up and be amazed. All done by hand, without the aid of a computer program or 3D printer! ___ Kimonos The national garment of Japan is also the most beautiful interpretation of unisex fashion. History and heritage is woven into each design, along with comfort and practicality. In Kyoto’s Gion district , history and Japanese culture literally line the streets. Hence, a haven for great kimono watching. But don’t just admire, acquire!! Vintage, bespoke and everyday options are available, which makes for a fun treasure hunt. We suggest meandering to YAYA , a little vintage boutique in Southern Higashiyama . ___ Prayer Plaques Charming house-shaped wooden plaques called Ema are layered in an orderly, shingled jumble at Saginomori-jinja Shrine and other Shinto shrines all across Kyoto. Purchase one and sit with it in your lap while studying the treetops overhead as they tickle the clouds. Think about this moment and the time before –and ahead. Put a prayer into words and scribe it onto your plaque, then fasten it amongst the others –your wish now afloat like a whisper. ___ Mochi and Matcha The squishy delight of Mochi is a true Japanese treat. A rice cake made of a short-grain rice and a dash of water, sugar, and cornstarch. The steamed rice is pounded into a paste, then formed into shapes, usually that of a bite size igloo. In Japan, it is traditionally made in a ceremony called mochitsuki . Originating in China, Matcha is a finely ground powder made with specially grown green tea leaves and is enjoyed across all of East Asia –and now, the world. These days, it is mostly produced in Japan, where one may experience its special allure at the Honen-in Temple where it is served along with a dreamily presented side of Mochi! For those who desire a fuller menu, nearby is the Green Terrace Riverside Cafe located just along the Philosopher's Walk , the renowned pedestrian path that follows a cherry tree-lined canal in Northern Higashiyama district. ___ Ryokan Genhouin At this quaint inn in Kyoto, the arrival of each new guest is denoted with the addition of two shoes joining the lineup of footwear at the front slatted-wood door. One can immediately see before entering if it’s a full house or not. No matter how many guests are in residence, this tranquil ryokan is as quiet as a sleeping cat. In each room, a ceramic vase with a single-stem flower occupies a zen niche, thoughtfully waiting to inspire contemplation. But the pièce de résistance is the onsite onsen . A renewing ritual that calls out to the visitor exploring Kyoto to return and fold into the warm water bath —wide enough to include friends! ___ Soba at Juu-go Japanese soba noodles are made with buckwheat. Brown and flat and thin like spaghetti. It’s strong in flavor and often served cold, in salads or with dipping sauces. In Kyoto, it’s also performance art at Juu-go where the kitc hen becomes theater as the chef makes and serves the noodles right before your eyes. Confused between SOBA and UDON noodles? Here’s a simple tip: SOBA has a “B”, as in Buckwheat”, or “Brown”. ___ Groundbreaking Women Centuries before Martha Graham redefined modern dance, Izumo no Okuni invented the theatrical art form of kabuki here on the dry riverbed of the Kamo River . By the mid 1600’s, Okuni's troupe became immensely popular, renowned for their performers who were often lower-class women recruited to act in her all-female theatre group. Her groundbreaking work is present today in reenactments along the parched river and in Japan’s not-to-miss Kabuki theaters. ___ Gion Calling Within the cobbled labyrinth of Kyoto’s historic Higashiyama District , all pathways seem to lead to the tall and graceful, multi-roof Hokan-ji Temple , known locally as the Yasaka Pagoda, or “Tower of Yasaka”. Inspired by a dream, it was built by the Imperial Prince Shotoku in 589, here in the storied warrens of Gion , where time stands still. ___ Yasaka Shrine The mesmerizing glow of the Yasaka Shrine at night serves as a beacon that leads to the historic Gion district . A gentle breeze rolls across the plaza, encouraging rows of lanterns to sway hypnotically, as if a spirit ran its hand along a curtain of light. A tradition known as Hatsumode - the first shrine visit of the new year - invites worshipers to take home a flame from the shrine’s sacred fire, with which to cook their first meal of the new year. ___ Bamboo Garden One feels a thrilling sense of peace in seeing the midday sunlight slant through the towering bamboo like swords. A “thrilling peacefulness” may be a contradiction in terms, but such is the sense of balance at Enkouji Temple . Darkness threaded with light. Cavalier breezes stilled. Yellow challenging green. Opposites together, in peace. ___ Spirituality Allow your thoughts to drift like smoke across the landscape at Nanzenji Temple with its massive brass urn containing a mountain of sand that hosts a grove of incense sticks. Each stick lit with hopes and dreams, as it lofts a scented cloud towards the gods. At Saginomori Temple , take the thick rope in both hands and pull down hard. Your heart is heard in the ringing of the bell. ___ Kyoto Footsteps There is an inspired moment in Kyoto that’s very special. The moment when one steps through the modest doorway of an ancient temple. The mountains and trees seem to bow in greeting the visitor. Imagine centuries of footsteps that have traversed this very threshold. Yours newly added, like new links on an eternal chain. Top two images: Nanzen-ji Temple Bottom image: Manshu-in Temple ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

A crisp mountain breeze swirls the meadow grasses at Juniper Point as the lake slumbers in the distance like a "big bear." Up here, at nearly 7,000ft the air is fresh and clean, the perfect environment to revitalize one’s senses, with lots of hikes for the body—and a zillion stars for the soul. BIG BEAR LAKE, CALIFORNIA A crisp mountain breeze swirls the meadow grasses at Juniper Point as the lake slumbers in the distance like a "big bear." Up here, at nearly 7,000ft the air is fresh and clean, the perfect environment to revitalize one’s senses, with lots of hikes for the body—and a zillion stars for the soul. FIVE FAVES / BIG BEAR LAKE The Lake Like most of the West, Big Bear Lake’s origin story is one of indigenous tribes thriving peacefully off the land, eventually getting pushed out by Spanish missionaries who themselves were squeezed out by white Americans relocating from the east. The original dam that created the lake was a stone wall, built in 1884 to collect water for agriculture at the foot of the mountain. A bigger dam was added in 1911 which doubled the size of the lake. The present dam is a graceful but sturdy refurbishment of the 1911 multiple arch design. It provides for the 10 mile long sun dappled lake we love today. ___ Boulder Bay As its name suggests, this tranquil inlet is bookended by boulders. Not dinosaur-egg size, these are the size of three story homes—and there’s some of those here too! Imagine having the pleasure (and the building permits, which were somehow granted) to enjoy this view from your living room 24/7! But rest assured, the rest of us can enjoy an equally fantastic panorama from Boulder Bay Park, punctuated by tall pines and more boulders. There’s a gazebo with tables to shade your picnic from the sun and plenty of camera-ready benches for lakeside photo ops. The water in the inner bay is like a mirror making the boulders appear to float like fantasy castles. Slip a kayak into the moment and glide along. You can rent them right next-door at Big Bear Lake Kayaks , in any color of the rainbow. ___ Juniper Point This north lakeshore paradise off Hwy 18 is perhaps the most stunning place in all of Big Bear. Here the sparkling lake is greeted by a sweeping meadow, outlined with Ponderosa Pines and twisting Juniper trees. Spring-fed creeks lay almost hidden in the tall grasses, seen only when crossing over wooden footpath bridges. At mid-meadow, the view deserves a movie-score crescendo with the deep blue lake underlining a vast mountain diorama, including Snow Summit’s ski runs, scribed upon the green hillsides like Japanese calligraphy. Flocks of birds soar, following their appointed leader along the water’s edge, then banking right to survey the food options along the south shore. Parking is easy, but a forest Adventure Pass is advised, available at the Visitor’s Center and the Discovery Center. ___ SPOTLIGHT: The Wilkie Cabin This glowing midcentury mountain retreat was built on weekends by my father and uncle (Wilkie and Bob). They began construction when I was two and nailed the last board into place the year I turned 16. Fourteen years of hammering and sawing through the 1950s, ‘60s and ‘70s passed before their dream cabin was completed. It was originally designed as a two story cabin, but dad and Bob became enchanted with the new "A-frame" cabin designs introduced in the mid 60s. Soon these weekend warriors, armed with Skil saws and swear words added a beautiful A-frame loft. As kids, we’d roost up there, side-by-side in our sleeping bags, watching the night sky through the big pyramid-shaped window that points straight to the stars. Dad was never quite content with the notion that his work here was done. He sketched a concept for a dormer to be added on the backside of the roof, providing a 3rd bedroom, in addition to the five bunk beds in the loft. I took on that project myself, which, upon completion earned a big approving smile from my dad. Lilacs bloom below that new room, embracing the rear deck with an intoxicating allure in late spring. The cabin is furnished in a style best described as “vintage eclectic”. Lucky finds scooped up at our favorite thrift store, The Doves Nest , and the Art Queen in Joshua Tree and many visits to the Pasadena City College Swap Meet. Today, the Wilkie Cabin is one of Vacasa’s star rentals, available year-round to enjoy with your family and friends. ___ Mountain Cooking There’s nothing quite as satisfying as a hearty meal after a brisk hike or a day on the slopes. Not to mention the joy of sharing it with a group of hungry friends or family. A black iron skillet performs as rustic oven and serving platter, delivering sumptuous meals in the ultimate all-in-one vessel. Frittatas by morning, chicken thighs by night. Leave room for Apple strudel which can also be baked to perfection with this Iron Maiden. The mountains is the place to make memorable meals, but be careful what you wash it down with, as the high elevation can make for a mighty hangover. ___ Image courtesy of Friends of Big Bear Valley Rustic Charm The mountains have always possessed a unique charm that beckons even in harsh conditions, dating back to the scraggly gold rush prospectors who made their way up these rugged slopes on donkeys just to break rocks. Their hopes and hardships are documented at the Big Bear Valley Historical Museum located near the foot of Gold Mountain—the source of the dusty fuss in the 1800’s that earned it its name. Those feisty characters, bearing long beards and rumpled dreams weren’t the only adventurers contributing to Big Bear’s enduring rustic charm. More recently, two equally tenacious standouts have elevated the enthusiasm to new heights. Meet Jackie and Shadow , two bald eagles who winter in their meticulously constructed treetop roost. Their daily routine is streamed 24/7 via “nest cam ” from its secret location high above the lake. ___ Dining "Out" at The Pines Lakefront Pizza and beer taste better outside. Looks better too, backlit in the crisp mountain light, with the lake gently waving at you and your fellow patio partiers. The Pines Lakefront is my favorite daytime dining spot with its 180 view, and arrival options by car or by boat. I know which method I prefer, but by whichever conveyance, this sunny beer-on-tap terrace is a lovely place for a mile-high lunch alfresco. ___ Hiking Trails: #1: Castle Rock The most visually-dramatic and physically-challenging of Big Bear’s wondrous trails, Castle Rock indeed lives up to its lofty name. A 500ft elevation climb eventually levels off with energy left to claim the castle as yours, (along with myriad other hikers) taking in the stunning lake-and-forest panorama from this mountaintop kingdom-of-stone-giants. Massive boulders are the trail’s resident escorts all the way up, culminating in the royal cluster that forms the “castle.” There's a dedicated parking lot off Hwy 38 for easy and safe trail access. ___ Hiking Trails #2: Pebble Plains Eastward from the fray of Big Bear Lake Village is a little known but well loved series of sweet trails spanning the untouched forest between Moonridge and Big Bear City named Pebble Plains Preserve. Choose the easy paths that wind along the seasonal Saw Mill Creek, or the gentle climbs that reach Lookout Point for a 360 view of the whole valley. (Or do both!) Pebble Plains is so named for the quartzite pebbles that were pushed to the surface of the clay soil in the Pleistocene age. The preserve proudly protects native prehistoric botanicals, including tiny ground-cover flowers, each no bigger than dots of confetti. ___ Hiking Trails #3: Woodland Interpretive Loop This trail gets our vote for the most charming and varied trail in Big Bear. Good for all ages and staminas. Pets too, (safely on a leash). The name “Interpretive“ references sequentially numbered points of interest with related descriptions about the types of trees, rocks, and wildlife. Along the way, the terrain and plant life changes, becoming more interesting and dramatic with each turn. Views of the lake are framed in redwood, oak and pine as if art directed. Impressive outcroppings of boulders stand like sculpture, equal in majesty to Castlerock Trail across the lake to the west but far easier to access. By the time, you complete the trail loop you’ll know a little more about the forest —grateful for the beauty it shared. ___ TIME BANDIT Pirate Ship This 1/3rd scale replica of a Spanish Galleon playfully plunders Big Bear Lake, leading daily tours from the far east shore to wild west end. Giggling passengers see the lake from a unique perspective, obscured by the ultimate pirate fashion accessory, the eye patch. Built by a father and his son in their back yard in the 1960’s, the ship eventually made its way to Hollywood, as one does, landing a starring role in the movie “Time Bandit”, (hence her name). But glamour fades, and duty calls, so, after some time idling in various So Cal ports o’ call, she scaled the mountain to her lofty new birth in Big Bear. At elevation 6,752 ft above sea level, these salty scalawags are certainly the world’s most high-flying pirates! ___ Big Bear Alpine Zoo Imagine a rustic peaceable kingdom teaming with adorable animals, each in various stages of recovery from the cruelties of the modern world. Such is the playful and caring safety zone of Big Bear’s Alpine Zoo, “a rehabilitation facility offering injured and orphaned wild animals a 2nd chance”. The majority of animals successfully rehabilitated here are released back into their native environment! Those that remain on exhibit are either too injured or “imprinted by humans” to care for themselves in the wild. This wonderful refuge first opened its doors in 1959 after a devastating wildfire the San Bernardino National Forest displaced many native animals. The zoo is currently home to mammals, birds, and reptiles representing over 85 species. Open daily from 10am - 4pm. ___ Big Bear Discovery Center Nestled on a gentle hill on the North Shore of Big Bear Lake is a wonderful facility where weekly forest-awareness programs and eco-tours take place. Even some concerts, creative theater productions, and nighttime interpretive programs play out in the outdoor amphitheater. Inside there’s fantastic taxidermy of the true locals who call the San Bernardino National Forest “home”. Bears, coyotes, squirrels and birds, are each preserved in motionless poses to appreciate in great detail. And then there’s the merch! Impeccable Smokey the Bear plush toys, scarfs, t-shirts, hats, and, importantly, your Forest Adventure Pass that grants easy, worry-free parking at all the sights. ___ The Night Sky Stars, planets and constellations dazzle overhead in the pitch blackness, pointing the way to infinite possibilities. In this clear air, it all looks so close. The tall pine trees reach up as if to touch the tantalizing twinkle, but even at their height, this nighttime treasure is safely secure, a zillion miles away. Big Bear’s town leadership encourages residents and guests to turn off unneeded outdoor lighting at night so that all may see how truly amazing this sky full of stars is. Nothing like the few we see from the city with Mars, Venus and the North Star struggling to be seen through the muck. No, this is more like glitter and sugar poured onto black velvet. The star-chocked Milky Way galaxy looks like a cirrus cloud floating across the universe. When I was a kid in the 60’s, we would come up to Big Bear for Christmas, aluminum tree in tow with its turquoise teardrop ornaments, and colored pinwheel spotlight. Quite the contrast with a forest of real Christmas trees just outside. My mom liked to attend Christmas eve service at the nearby church, but one year my dad asked if we’d like to see his church. This came as a surprise because, on most Sundays he’d prefer to convene a kids’ pizza party than be confined to a church pew. He described “soaring pillars and a grand, domed ceiling, aglow with lights lit by God herself.” Excitedly, we followed him up the snowy trail, zig-zagging through the trees until we came to a wide clearing carpeted wall-to-wall in snow. I looked in all directions for the great cathedral, expecting to see a looming Notre Dame or the towers of La Segrada Familia, but instead there was just us. Dad said “This is my church”. We pondered each others’ puzzled faces. “Look up at that ceiling!” he said, his head reclined all the way back on his shoulders. Indeed the sky was like a vast dome with more twinkling “lights”, er stars than we’d ever imagined. Sturdy “columns” of pine trees lined the perimeter like a Greek temple. “In this church, your prayers are heard more clearly because you’re nearer to god.” he offered. We all stood there looking up, wide-eyed with mouths agape like a silent choir. He added, “And who do you think built it?” ___ Image courtesy of bigbearmountainresort.com Big Bear, by Season Every visit here feels like a different place, as the respective seasons redefine the landscape. Like four resort towns in one, winter, spring, summer and fall each uniquely affects the wonder that is Big Bear. WINTER arrives outfitted in boots, caps and mittens as Big Bear is blanketed in rolling folds of snow. Skiers and snowboarders enjoy breathless downhill runs and breathtaking ski lift views, repeated all day at Snow Summit and Bear Mountain . When it doesn’t snow, the resorts make their own, so the story plays out the same, except without the need for tire chains! For those of us who don’t feel at home on a frozen incline, there’s plenty of level ground in Big Bear Valley for us to make snow angels and catch snow flakes. By evening, the nearby Village beckons, its shops, restaurants and sidewalk fire rings all aglow in the twilight. Then it’s back to the cabin for hot chocolate and s’mores. In the morning, an early walk is enveloped in the serene silence of falling snow. SPRING comes with a colorful bouquet, nudging the snow to let go so that the show may begin. A rustic ballet of purple sage and pink cactus performs in full bloom. Lilacs scent the forest as cotton ball clouds festoon the sky. Silver-tailed squirrels scurry to the beat of the Woodpecker’s hammer. Gangs of tiny Mountain Chickadees pop their heads into pockets of snow like kids searching for snacks in the fridge. Walk along the meadow at Juniper Point , hike the Pebble Plains , do some thrift shopping at The Doves Nest and dine by the fire at the Captain’s Anchorage . Images courtesy of bigbearmountainresort.com SUMMER invites athletes and amateurs to cut loose in a dizzying array of outdoor activities. Mountain bikers descend the same black diamond runs that they roared down just six months earlier on skis and snowboards. (Fun fact: The US Olympic team trained here for the ‘64 Games in Mexico City to prepare for similarly-thin air!) For those who prefer a bike ride where the scenery isn’t a blur can try an easy e-bike ride along the north shore’s Alpine Pedal Path . Hikers have many trails to choose from, each unique in its wooded topography. Rent a boat and spend a blissful day on the lake, or let a pirate show you how it’s done. (See Pirate Ship above). You’ll find the Big Bear Alpine Zoo in full swing, and the Mine Shaft Coaster at full tilt. Discover how it all started at the Historical Museum , or simply SHOP! The Village is the “height” of retail therapy. FALL is a study of contrasts here in the mountains. The way golden oak leaves seem to catch all the sunlight against the forest green, assisted by swaying yellow Poplars, their leaves shimmering like coins. The air is crisp, and on the move, threading through a trillion pine needles holding fast to their branches like a gusty bronco ride. The forest is desert-dry now, having willed all moisture to its nearest kin, the summer. But that generosity paid off handsomely–in gold. For the visitor, the empty hiking trails are magical in the cool of the afternoon. The light slanting in lower as the days get shorter. Warmly dressed boaters may find they have the lake to themselves to skim across at full throttle. And, of course, there’s The Village , serving seasonal meals and tapping a cavalcade of craft beers. No matter which season , you’ll want to extend your stay, or book ahead for the next one. A wide variety of lodging options await, from sprawling hotels to snug cabins, (such as the aforementioned Wilkie Cabin !) ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

The world’s most remote location from any mainland is also the place on earth that receives the most rainfall, (roughly 450 inches per year). But by any measure, the “Garden Isle” is truly the height of exotic, tropical beauty. KAUAI, HAWAII The world’s most remote location from any mainland is also the place on earth that receives the most rainfall, (roughly 450 inches per year). But by any measure, the “Garden Isle” is truly the height of exotic, tropical beauty. FIVE FAVES / KAUAI Kokee State Park 45 miles of the state’s finest hiking trails wind their way through wet forests and dry ledges, leading to sweeping views of Waimea Canyon and the Napali coast. Cliffsides stand like flanks of bayonets, daring the clouds to advance, eventually forcing a surrender of 70 inches of rainfall annually. Kokee road meanwhile weaves up from the west, arriving within a few easy steps of the most incredible view of them all, the Kalalau Lookout . ___ Limahuli Garden and Preserve A misty canyon cradles a self-sustaining, social-ecological practice known to Hawaiians as “Ahupua”. An ancient tradition where land is divided into “pie slice” parcels, starting at the rain-drenched top point of the island, assuring fresh water flows equitably through terraced farms below as each valley widens towards the sea. “The plants, the people and the place” are equal and essential contributors to its well being. This gorgeous garden also nurtures countless endangered native plants and birds. Visitors are welcome. Reservations are advised. ___ Hanalei Bay The day pulls away like a ship. All of us who remain ashore look forward to its colorful return tomorrow. Just moments ago, the departing sun briefly glazed this beach in gold, as if leaving a parting gift. A treasure that quickly vanished into the Hawaiian twilight. ___ Hanalei Pier It may be called a pier but it’s more like a rough hewn temple, or for some a diving board. Reaching out from the shore, this simple walkway leads to the most magnificent view of paradise, where the clouds applaud a brilliant performance as the sun takes a bow. ___ 1 Hotel Hanalei Bay The sea rolls in, lead by a frothy flank of whitecaps advancing into Hanalei Bay, just as a cappuccino rolls in from room service, sporting its own frothy cap. Such are the synergies of the “Garden Isle”, Kauai, at the dreamy 1 Hotel . ___ Yellowfish Trading Company In this portal to old Hawaii, vintage aloha shirts, mid-mod light fixtures, tiki mugs and Hawaiiana treasures fill the shelves. Opened in 1993 after Hurricane Iniki ransacked the island, this little shop helped restore Kauai with some soulful charm. ___ Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge Life along the Hanalei river is Nature’s denizen within reach. Sun bathing turtles mostly ignore the paddling paparazzi, just as resident birds prioritize breakfast over privacy. Tree branches stretch in yoga poses while a breeze whistles Hawaiian tunes through the leaves. Kayak Hanalei ___ Hawaiian Tiki As a guardian of the heiau, (temple) a tiki warrior represents the manifestation of Mana, the ancient Hawaiian belief that spiritual energy flows through all beings and things, balancing power and strength with serenity and dignity. Hand carved Acacia Koa wood tikis by Havaiki Oceanic and Tribal Art Gallery, Hanalei Center ___ Island Farmers Markets Papayas, mangosteens, guavas, passion fruit (AKA lilikoi), coconuts and apple-bananas. Are we in Eden? Even better, it’s the ever-tempting farmers’ markets on Kauai, where local growers gather under neatly arranged tents to sell their home grown wonders. Our bags runneth over at this heavenly outdoor market just past Waioli Huiia church in Hanalei. ___ Anini Beach Light flickers behind craggy tree branches like Balinese puppetry. Along this magical 2 1/2 mile stretch of sand, the water appears calm but it can be swift and strong, especially out near the reef as it shreds the Pacific. A barrier so effective it can turn the tide into a mirror. Daily theatrics that have played for centuries here on Kauai, an island staged at the furthest distance from any mainland. ___ Shave Ice at Kilauea Fish Market Japanese immigrants, who came to the Islands to work in the sugar and pineapple fields in the mid-1800s introduced the concept of kakigori. Meaning shaved ice. They used their tools to shave flakes off large blocks of ice, and then coated it with sugar or fruit juice. In Pidgin vernacular, the refreshing treat became known as shave ice—not shaved ice. (On Hawaii Island, it’s also called “ice shave”.) Eventually, the ice flakes were fashioned with hand-cranked machines; some stores still operate them today. Shave ice is softly mounded in a cup, or sometimes a cone, and generously drizzled with colorful syrups. Some natural, some not. On Kauai, one can enjoy all-natural fruit syrups at The Fresh Shave in Koloa. The delightful specimen shown here features papaya and lilikoi drizzle + a gummy worm, as served at Kilauea Fish Market , who have clearly mastered more than the art of preparing fabulous fish! ___ Allerton Garden Shifting palm shadows brush the window like hands fussing with a long sheer curtain. An antique poster bed and a well-loved Hawaiian quilt suggest the presence of a grandmother, but this is a gentleman’s bedroom. One of two men who lived here, in this island home, together, amid a tropical garden carved out of a sugarcane valley, between the wars, a world away from judgement. Their guests, actors, artists and heiresses arrived from the mainland by ocean liner. The era of modern air travel was still awaiting take off. About the same time that Georgia O’Keefe immersed herself in New Mexico at Ghost Ranch, fully removed from the modern frenzy of Manhattan, Robert and John Gregg Allerton found themselves at home on the island of Kauai. Their hands deep in Hawaiian soil and their toes in the sand. They wore kimonos at cocktail hour and promenaded like peacocks in gardens of their own design. One of which is a formal, four-cornered “room”,—with no ceiling. Instead, a mural of real sky and clouds overhead. At night it became a ballroom, lit by the stars. Outsmarting the rules of a frowning society, they legalized their relationship with the older Robert adopting John as his son, keeping the dream in the family for half a life longer. Upon John’s passing in 1986, this 80 acre botanical fantasy was left in trust for all to enjoy, now managed by the non-profit National Tropical Botanical Garden . Guided tours by reservation. ___ Hanapepe Swinging Bridge Part wooden bridge, part childhood swing, this creaking span outs one’s inner child. Perhaps this is what walking on a cloud feels like—but with less grace. Its cartoon sway animated further by the bravado of a young brat midway across. The return is easier, having acclimated to instability. Back on land, and walking straight again, follow the turn-of-the-century storefronts to Talk Story Bookstore “the westernmost bookstore in the US”. ___ Waimea Plantation Cottages Not far from the entrance to Waimea Canyon, the sun swept west shore of Kauai feels strangely warm and blustery, having come ‘round the island from the rain-slicked east shore. A place to sink one’s toes in the earth tone sand, or glide across the wide lawn, each blade of grass lazily waving aloha to the setting sun. Pass beneath the reach of banyan tree limbs as they strike a pose like mimes. Here, 59 authentic plantation cottages, once home to field workers in the late 1800s, nestle comfortably on 43-acres of tropical oceanfront. Thoughtfully refurbished, these one-to-five-bedroom cottages welcome their guests with comfortable Hawaii-style furniture, fully equipped kitchens and private lanais at surprisingly affordable rates. Like fingerprints from the past, no two cottages are the same, except in charm. ___ Kilauea Lighthouse Lighthouses keep ships from running aground, but this one kept an airplane from being lost at sea. In 1927, five weeks after Lindbergh’s transatlantic triumph, two Army pilots dared a more difficult navigational feat, the first transpacific flight from California to Hawaii. Aloft for a full day and night, the three-engine “Bird of Paradise” approached the islands before dawn. Shockingly, their compass and directional radio receiver both malfunctioned, leaving the pilots to search the darkened void. Just then, a flash from the Kilauea Lighthouse allowed them to recalibrate their position and land safely on Oahu, 25 hours and 50 mins after taking off from Oakland. Today the lighthouse continues to protect actual “birds of paradise” as a stunning National wildlife refuge. ___ Lumahai Beach As we wind down on our time here on the Garden Isle, we ponder its beauty and power, its fragile environment and ferocious sea. The veil of its natural allure often masks potential peril. While Lumahai Beach is the subject of many postcards and paintings, it is also one of the most dangerous beaches for drownings and not recommended for swimming. Admire and respect its stunning wonder but stay clear of the surf. Now we brush off the sand one last time before heading to the airport. But first, one last look, imagining Mitzi Gaynor singing “I’m gonna wash that man right out of my hair” in the 1958 movie “South Pacific”, filmed right here on Lumahai Beach . ___ INSPIRATION : A touch of the islands for your world at home. Tiki Collectables A warrior’s glare looms, his face paint swirling like typhoons. Meet the defender of tropical kitsch and his clan, here to protect-and-serve tiki drinks. Ah, the allure of swarthy and sweet concoctions –in tiki mugs. The fruits of rum-soaked islands, oceans away. But this languid lore is not limited to imbibing. Tiki mugs also make fun vases and/or colorful, sculptural mantle art. Display the whole unruly tribe as a bookshelf collection! Check out the best in rum-punchy porcelain at tikifarm.com . Imagine an eclectic cache of tikis in one’s own humble hale. The spirit(s) of the south seas, right at home. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next