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Hither and Wander is a unique travel resource exploring distinct destinations with tips and recommendations. Plus, travel lifestyle ideas including home decor and international recipes. Unique Travel Resource Best private beach to visit, Stiniva Beach, Vis, Croatia by top travel guide Hither and Wander Unique Travel Resource Beautiful sunset view at Mont Saint-Michel castle in Brittany, France by best travel blog Unique Travel Resource The best season to travel, gorgeous autumn leaves at the temple gates in Kyoto, Japan by top travel blog Unique Travel Resource Best private beach to visit, Stiniva Beach, Vis, Croatia by top travel guide Hither and Wander 1/15 Awa y to discover. Journey with us as we explore dist inct d estinations . Discover our favorite picks, tips and travel- inspired ideas for your world at home. Come hither , and wander with us! EXPLORE DESTINATIONS C O N S U L T I N G Creative consulting for hospitality, travel and lifestyle brands. LEARN MORE JOIN OUR NEWSLETTER Away to connect. An exclusiv e page of seasonal travel tips and lifestyle ideas o nly available in our newsletter when you join ! EMAIL SUBSCRIBE Thanks for subscribing! As a creative director in global travel publishing, I focus on the sensory experiences that make a journey memorable. Collaborations with award-winning writers and photographers sharpened my vision in creating this collection, mostly shot on my iPhone. — Haines Wilkerson Founder READ MORE FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @hitherandwander @hitherandwander Load More

A travel journal exploring the personality of places, focusing on distinct destinations and curated highlights. A travel journal exploring distinct destinations and curated highlights—with more coming soon! Also see FIVE FAVES , our top five picks in the places we love. Explore from A-Z by CITY. ALGARVE, PORTUGAL BIG BEAR LAKE, CA BRITTANY, FRANCE CA ROUTE 66 CAVTAT, CROATIA COIMBRA, PORTUGAL DOURO RIVER, PORTUGAL DUBROVNIK, CROATIA EVORA, PORTUGAL FORT GREENE, BROOKLYN HOLLYWOOD, CA, US KAUAI, HAWAII KOTOR, MONTENEGRO KYOTO, JAPAN LISBON, PORTUGAL MÉXICO CITY, MÉXICO NICE, FRANCE OAHU, HAWAII OMIS, CROATIA PARIS, FRANCE PORTO, PORTUGAL PROVENCE, FRANCE SALTON SEA, CA (NEW) SINTRA, PORTUGAL SPLIT, PORTUGAL

A crisp mountain breeze swirls the meadow grasses at Juniper Point as the lake slumbers in the distance like a "big bear." Up here, at nearly 7,000ft the air is fresh and clean, the perfect environment to revitalize one’s senses, with lots of hikes for the body—and a zillion stars for the soul. BIG BEAR LAKE, CALIFORNIA A crisp mountain breeze swirls the meadow grasses at Juniper Point as the lake slumbers in the distance like a "big bear." Up here, at nearly 7,000ft the air is fresh and clean, the perfect environment to revitalize one’s senses, with lots of hikes for the body—and a zillion stars for the soul. FIVE FAVES / BIG BEAR LAKE The Lake Like most of the West, Big Bear Lake’s origin story is one of indigenous tribes thriving peacefully off the land, eventually getting pushed out by Spanish missionaries who themselves were squeezed out by white Americans relocating from the east. The original dam that created the lake was a stone wall, built in 1884 to collect water for agriculture at the foot of the mountain. A bigger dam was added in 1911 which doubled the size of the lake. The present dam is a graceful but sturdy refurbishment of the 1911 multiple arch design. It provides for the 10 mile long sun dappled lake we love today. ___ Boulder Bay As its name suggests, this tranquil inlet is bookended by boulders. Not dinosaur-egg size, these are the size of three story homes—and there’s some of those here too! Imagine having the pleasure (and the building permits, which were somehow granted) to enjoy this view from your living room 24/7! But rest assured, the rest of us can enjoy an equally fantastic panorama from Boulder Bay Park, punctuated by tall pines and more boulders. There’s a gazebo with tables to shade your picnic from the sun and plenty of camera-ready benches for lakeside photo ops. The water in the inner bay is like a mirror making the boulders appear to float like fantasy castles. Slip a kayak into the moment and glide along. You can rent them right next-door at Big Bear Lake Kayaks , in any color of the rainbow. ___ Juniper Point This north lakeshore paradise off Hwy 18 is perhaps the most stunning place in all of Big Bear. Here the sparkling lake is greeted by a sweeping meadow, outlined with Ponderosa Pines and twisting Juniper trees. Spring-fed creeks lay almost hidden in the tall grasses, seen only when crossing over wooden footpath bridges. At mid-meadow, the view deserves a movie-score crescendo with the deep blue lake underlining a vast mountain diorama, including Snow Summit’s ski runs, scribed upon the green hillsides like Japanese calligraphy. Flocks of birds soar, following their appointed leader along the water’s edge, then banking right to survey the food options along the south shore. Parking is easy, but a forest Adventure Pass is advised, available at the Visitor’s Center and the Discovery Center. ___ SPOTLIGHT: The Wilkie Cabin This glowing midcentury mountain retreat was built on weekends by my father and uncle (Wilkie and Bob). They began construction when I was two and nailed the last board into place the year I turned 16. Fourteen years of hammering and sawing through the 1950s, ‘60s and ‘70s passed before their dream cabin was completed. It was originally designed as a two story cabin, but dad and Bob became enchanted with the new "A-frame" cabin designs introduced in the mid 60s. Soon these weekend warriors, armed with Skil saws and swear words added a beautiful A-frame loft. As kids, we’d roost up there, side-by-side in our sleeping bags, watching the night sky through the big pyramid-shaped window that points straight to the stars. Dad was never quite content with the notion that his work here was done. He sketched a concept for a dormer to be added on the backside of the roof, providing a 3rd bedroom, in addition to the five bunk beds in the loft. I took on that project myself, which, upon completion earned a big approving smile from my dad. Lilacs bloom below that new room, embracing the rear deck with an intoxicating allure in late spring. The cabin is furnished in a style best described as “vintage eclectic”. Lucky finds scooped up at our favorite thrift store, The Doves Nest , and the Art Queen in Joshua Tree and many visits to the Pasadena City College Swap Meet. Today, the Wilkie Cabin is one of Vacasa’s star rentals, available year-round to enjoy with your family and friends. ___ Mountain Cooking There’s nothing quite as satisfying as a hearty meal after a brisk hike or a day on the slopes. Not to mention the joy of sharing it with a group of hungry friends or family. A black iron skillet performs as rustic oven and serving platter, delivering sumptuous meals in the ultimate all-in-one vessel. Frittatas by morning, chicken thighs by night. Leave room for Apple strudel which can also be baked to perfection with this Iron Maiden. The mountains is the place to make memorable meals, but be careful what you wash it down with, as the high elevation can make for a mighty hangover. ___ Image courtesy of Friends of Big Bear Valley Rustic Charm The mountains have always possessed a unique charm that beckons even in harsh conditions, dating back to the scraggly gold rush prospectors who made their way up these rugged slopes on donkeys just to break rocks. Their hopes and hardships are documented at the Big Bear Valley Historical Museum located near the foot of Gold Mountain—the source of the dusty fuss in the 1800’s that earned it its name. Those feisty characters, bearing long beards and rumpled dreams weren’t the only adventurers contributing to Big Bear’s enduring rustic charm. More recently, two equally tenacious standouts have elevated the enthusiasm to new heights. Meet Jackie and Shadow , two bald eagles who winter in their meticulously constructed treetop roost. Their daily routine is streamed 24/7 via “nest cam ” from its secret location high above the lake. ___ Dining "Out" at The Pines Lakefront Pizza and beer taste better outside. Looks better too, backlit in the crisp mountain light, with the lake gently waving at you and your fellow patio partiers. The Pines Lakefront is my favorite daytime dining spot with its 180 view, and arrival options by car or by boat. I know which method I prefer, but by whichever conveyance, this sunny beer-on-tap terrace is a lovely place for a mile-high lunch alfresco. ___ Hiking Trails: #1: Castle Rock The most visually-dramatic and physically-challenging of Big Bear’s wondrous trails, Castle Rock indeed lives up to its lofty name. A 500ft elevation climb eventually levels off with energy left to claim the castle as yours, (along with myriad other hikers) taking in the stunning lake-and-forest panorama from this mountaintop kingdom-of-stone-giants. Massive boulders are the trail’s resident escorts all the way up, culminating in the royal cluster that forms the “castle.” There's a dedicated parking lot off Hwy 38 for easy and safe trail access. ___ Hiking Trails #2: Pebble Plains Eastward from the fray of Big Bear Lake Village is a little known but well loved series of sweet trails spanning the untouched forest between Moonridge and Big Bear City named Pebble Plains Preserve. Choose the easy paths that wind along the seasonal Saw Mill Creek, or the gentle climbs that reach Lookout Point for a 360 view of the whole valley. (Or do both!) Pebble Plains is so named for the quartzite pebbles that were pushed to the surface of the clay soil in the Pleistocene age. The preserve proudly protects native prehistoric botanicals, including tiny ground-cover flowers, each no bigger than dots of confetti. ___ Hiking Trails #3: Woodland Interpretive Loop This trail gets our vote for the most charming and varied trail in Big Bear. Good for all ages and staminas. Pets too, (safely on a leash). The name “Interpretive“ references sequentially numbered points of interest with related descriptions about the types of trees, rocks, and wildlife. Along the way, the terrain and plant life changes, becoming more interesting and dramatic with each turn. Views of the lake are framed in redwood, oak and pine as if art directed. Impressive outcroppings of boulders stand like sculpture, equal in majesty to Castlerock Trail across the lake to the west but far easier to access. By the time, you complete the trail loop you’ll know a little more about the forest —grateful for the beauty it shared. ___ TIME BANDIT Pirate Ship This 1/3rd scale replica of a Spanish Galleon playfully plunders Big Bear Lake, leading daily tours from the far east shore to wild west end. Giggling passengers see the lake from a unique perspective, obscured by the ultimate pirate fashion accessory, the eye patch. Built by a father and his son in their back yard in the 1960’s, the ship eventually made its way to Hollywood, as one does, landing a starring role in the movie “Time Bandit”, (hence her name). But glamour fades, and duty calls, so, after some time idling in various So Cal ports o’ call, she scaled the mountain to her lofty new birth in Big Bear. At elevation 6,752 ft above sea level, these salty scalawags are certainly the world’s most high-flying pirates! ___ Big Bear Alpine Zoo Imagine a rustic peaceable kingdom teaming with adorable animals, each in various stages of recovery from the cruelties of the modern world. Such is the playful and caring safety zone of Big Bear’s Alpine Zoo, “a rehabilitation facility offering injured and orphaned wild animals a 2nd chance”. The majority of animals successfully rehabilitated here are released back into their native environment! Those that remain on exhibit are either too injured or “imprinted by humans” to care for themselves in the wild. This wonderful refuge first opened its doors in 1959 after a devastating wildfire the San Bernardino National Forest displaced many native animals. The zoo is currently home to mammals, birds, and reptiles representing over 85 species. Open daily from 10am - 4pm. ___ Big Bear Discovery Center Nestled on a gentle hill on the North Shore of Big Bear Lake is a wonderful facility where weekly forest-awareness programs and eco-tours take place. Even some concerts, creative theater productions, and nighttime interpretive programs play out in the outdoor amphitheater. Inside there’s fantastic taxidermy of the true locals who call the San Bernardino National Forest “home”. Bears, coyotes, squirrels and birds, are each preserved in motionless poses to appreciate in great detail. And then there’s the merch! Impeccable Smokey the Bear plush toys, scarfs, t-shirts, hats, and, importantly, your Forest Adventure Pass that grants easy, worry-free parking at all the sights. ___ The Night Sky Stars, planets and constellations dazzle overhead in the pitch blackness, pointing the way to infinite possibilities. In this clear air, it all looks so close. The tall pine trees reach up as if to touch the tantalizing twinkle, but even at their height, this nighttime treasure is safely secure, a zillion miles away. Big Bear’s town leadership encourages residents and guests to turn off unneeded outdoor lighting at night so that all may see how truly amazing this sky full of stars is. Nothing like the few we see from the city with Mars, Venus and the North Star struggling to be seen through the muck. No, this is more like glitter and sugar poured onto black velvet. The star-chocked Milky Way galaxy looks like a cirrus cloud floating across the universe. When I was a kid in the 60’s, we would come up to Big Bear for Christmas, aluminum tree in tow with its turquoise teardrop ornaments, and colored pinwheel spotlight. Quite the contrast with a forest of real Christmas trees just outside. My mom liked to attend Christmas eve service at the nearby church, but one year my dad asked if we’d like to see his church. This came as a surprise because, on most Sundays he’d prefer to convene a kids’ pizza party than be confined to a church pew. He described “soaring pillars and a grand, domed ceiling, aglow with lights lit by God herself.” Excitedly, we followed him up the snowy trail, zig-zagging through the trees until we came to a wide clearing carpeted wall-to-wall in snow. I looked in all directions for the great cathedral, expecting to see a looming Notre Dame or the towers of La Segrada Familia, but instead there was just us. Dad said “This is my church”. We pondered each others’ puzzled faces. “Look up at that ceiling!” he said, his head reclined all the way back on his shoulders. Indeed the sky was like a vast dome with more twinkling “lights”, er stars than we’d ever imagined. Sturdy “columns” of pine trees lined the perimeter like a Greek temple. “In this church, your prayers are heard more clearly because you’re nearer to god.” he offered. We all stood there looking up, wide-eyed with mouths agape like a silent choir. He added, “And who do you think built it?” ___ Image courtesy of bigbearmountainresort.com Big Bear, by Season Every visit here feels like a different place, as the respective seasons redefine the landscape. Like four resort towns in one, winter, spring, summer and fall each uniquely affects the wonder that is Big Bear. WINTER arrives outfitted in boots, caps and mittens as Big Bear is blanketed in rolling folds of snow. Skiers and snowboarders enjoy breathless downhill runs and breathtaking ski lift views, repeated all day at Snow Summit and Bear Mountain . When it doesn’t snow, the resorts make their own, so the story plays out the same, except without the need for tire chains! For those of us who don’t feel at home on a frozen incline, there’s plenty of level ground in Big Bear Valley for us to make snow angels and catch snow flakes. By evening, the nearby Village beckons, its shops, restaurants and sidewalk fire rings all aglow in the twilight. Then it’s back to the cabin for hot chocolate and s’mores. In the morning, an early walk is enveloped in the serene silence of falling snow. SPRING comes with a colorful bouquet, nudging the snow to let go so that the show may begin. A rustic ballet of purple sage and pink cactus performs in full bloom. Lilacs scent the forest as cotton ball clouds festoon the sky. Silver-tailed squirrels scurry to the beat of the Woodpecker’s hammer. Gangs of tiny Mountain Chickadees pop their heads into pockets of snow like kids searching for snacks in the fridge. Walk along the meadow at Juniper Point , hike the Pebble Plains , do some thrift shopping at The Doves Nest and dine by the fire at the Captain’s Anchorage . Images courtesy of bigbearmountainresort.com SUMMER invites athletes and amateurs to cut loose in a dizzying array of outdoor activities. Mountain bikers descend the same black diamond runs that they roared down just six months earlier on skis and snowboards. (Fun fact: The US Olympic team trained here for the ‘64 Games in Mexico City to prepare for similarly-thin air!) For those who prefer a bike ride where the scenery isn’t a blur can try an easy e-bike ride along the north shore’s Alpine Pedal Path . Hikers have many trails to choose from, each unique in its wooded topography. Rent a boat and spend a blissful day on the lake, or let a pirate show you how it’s done. (See Pirate Ship above). You’ll find the Big Bear Alpine Zoo in full swing, and the Mine Shaft Coaster at full tilt. Discover how it all started at the Historical Museum , or simply SHOP! The Village is the “height” of retail therapy. FALL is a study of contrasts here in the mountains. The way golden oak leaves seem to catch all the sunlight against the forest green, assisted by swaying yellow Poplars, their leaves shimmering like coins. The air is crisp, and on the move, threading through a trillion pine needles holding fast to their branches like a gusty bronco ride. The forest is desert-dry now, having willed all moisture to its nearest kin, the summer. But that generosity paid off handsomely–in gold. For the visitor, the empty hiking trails are magical in the cool of the afternoon. The light slanting in lower as the days get shorter. Warmly dressed boaters may find they have the lake to themselves to skim across at full throttle. And, of course, there’s The Village , serving seasonal meals and tapping a cavalcade of craft beers. No matter which season , you’ll want to extend your stay, or book ahead for the next one. A wide variety of lodging options await, from sprawling hotels to snug cabins, (such as the aforementioned Wilkie Cabin !) ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Where dreams rise like champagne bubbles ...or languish like shipwrecks. Either way, the allure of this industry town remains irresistible and its imprint indelible. HOLLYWOOD, CALIFORNIA Where dreams rise like champagne bubbles ...or languish like shipwrecks. Either way, the allure of this industry town remains irresistible and its imprint indelible. Paramount Studios Tour Some movie studio tours are like amusement park rides, complete with thrills and spills, but the Paramount Studios Tour is a true backstage pass. This walking-and-golf-cart exploration quickly confirms Paramount as the original home of movie magic, (proudly noting it’s the only major studio with a view of the HOLLYWOOD sign). Right out of the gate, (literally) we’re immersed in film history, as we walk through the very Bronson gate where Norma Desmond, famously declared “without me there wouldn’t be any Paramount Studios!” in the film noir classic “Sunset Boulevard”. The New York backlot is so convincing one might crave a bagel, despite the surreal backdrop of palm trees. Peering into the cavernous darkness of Stage 18 one learns that Alfred Hitchcock poked the floorboards with his walking stick and demanded they be removed to accommodate the tall set for “Rear Window” with its courtyard apartments built to scale. Then there’s Stage 1, where Orson Welles shot “Citizen Kane”. The VIP tour takes you inside the archive vault for a deeper dive into cinematic lore. The grand finale is the fantastic Paramount prop room filled with curiosities one might expect to find in Tim Burton’s garage. ___ Yo-Yo Ma at the Hollywood Bowl Like a clam shell presenting its pearl, the Hollywood Bowl is a treasured gift for great performers and fortunate audiences. Opened in 1929, the concentric arches rising over its iconic stage host the LA Philharmonic’s summer performances as well as a steady stream of stars shining under the evening sky. Here, Cellist Yo-Yo Ma single-handedly captivated the crowd playing the Bach Suites, straight through from memory. A composition written 300 years ago, conjured to life in this stellar setting by a modern master. ___ Once Upon A Time In Hollywood… The oldest restaurant in LA, The Musso & Frank Grill —since 1919 remains largely unchanged after 100+ years, yet is more popular today than ever. Many of the adored staff are “lifer’s”, one of whom, Alonso recently retired after 48 years. It is said that Charlie Chaplin would challenge Douglas Fairbanks to a horse race down Hollywood Boulevard, and the winner had to pick up the tab at Musso’s. Ah, the price of victory! To quote Michael Callahan’s book chronicling its history, “Musso’s became the clubhouse for the most peculiar band of misfits that rotated through Hollywood’s golden age –writers.” F. Scott Fitzgerald proofread his novels at a booth at Musso’s. William Faulkner met his mistress of 20 years here. Raymond Chandler wrote chapters of “The Big Sleep” while sipping cocktails in the Back Room. T.S. Elliot, Aldous Huxley, John Steinbeck and Dorothy Parker all called the Musso’s bar “home” while Anaïs Nin penned some of her diaries on that hallowed wood. Humphrey Bogart stood mesmerized by Lauren Bacall at the bar, and, I personally witnessed a similar swoon as Madonna studied Sean Penn’s eyes in a booth to themselves. TIP: always look into every booth as you’re escorted to your table. Chances are you’ll encounter some very famous faces only slightly hidden behind martini glasses. ___ Cinespia at Hollywood Forever Classic films come back to life under the stars at Hollywood Forever cemetery. Cinespia offers summer weekend screenings, al fresco on the vast Fairbanks Lawn, so named for the adjacent crypt housing both Douglas Fairbanks, Sr. and Jr. An eclectic range of films are projected onto the west wall of the Cathedral Mausoleum, which houses the crypt of Rudolph Valentino among many other notables of celluloid lore. A few steps away, Johnny Ramone plays on from atop his crypt. Bring a picnic blanket and all the trimmings, but come early to stake out your plot! ___ Hollyhock House “With a radical client like Miss Barnsdall, a site like Olive Hill, a climate like California, an architect head on for freedom, something had to happen…” —Frank Lloyd Wright Architect, Frank Lloyd Wright channeled the magnificence of Mayan temples in this 1921 home that transcended all convention for residential design. Rising just above the sparkle of Hollywood, Hollyhock House crowns Olive Hill, now known as Barnsdall Art Park , a gathering place for talent of all ages, origins and interests. Founded by the estate of Aline Barnsdall, the original owner of the home, an eccentric eastern aristocrat with a penchant for the arts. ___ Rooftop Hollywood Several new hotels line the boulevards like Oscars with flat tops. Each one crowned with a jewel sized pool. Up here, the sky becomes a silver screen as the ocean air pulls across. Drinks float on the tattooed arms of waiters who silently recite lines for tomorrow’s audition. Shadows that lounged all day under yellow umbrellas vanish as the sun finds its seat. Thompson Hotel Hollywood The Godfrey Hotel Hollywood Dream Hotels The Everly Hollywood W Hollywood ___ Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel Pool Aqua water quivers like David Hockney brush strokes, mirroring the actual swirls he famously painted on the bottom of the pool here in 1988 with a paintbrush tied to a broom handle. An Olympic sized rectangle that stretches out like swimmer’s legs across a mid century courtyard. The Roosevelt pool deck has seen it all. Debauchery, dreams. deals and divas. Bikinis, mojitos, burgers and fries, all together under the brilliant beige sky, where one’s afternoon plans drift away like pool floats. ___ Hiking Hollywood Griffith Park is the largest municipal park in the US. 50 miles of trails wiggle through folding hillsides that form a diorama of the Southern California landscape, —right in the middle of the city. Here, LA’s best hikes lead to the top of Mt Hollywood where sweeping views to the west crescendo at the edge of the sea. A silver sheen of ocean air softens the horizon, while, off to the east, downtown LA rises like Oz. Four times the size of San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park and five times the size of Central Park in New York, Griffith Park boasts 4300+ acres of rugged, (and often star studded) scenery. ___ Hollywood Mixology A whisper of Vermouth meets the mist of lemon, consummating a classic Hollywood relationship. There’s something about stemware that puts dreams on a pedestal while elevating the moment. Similarly, a ring of sea salt bestows upon a proper Paloma its well deserved crown. The night is young and well served, under the stars at Superba on Sunset, or at the bar at The Musso & Frank Grill or embraced in a sumptuous booth at Mes Amis where your table is set like a movie scene at Thompson Hotel Hollywood . ___ Vetting Hollywood Bette Davis famously quipped when asked what’s the best way for an aspiring actress to get into Hollywood?, “Take Fountain”. Indeed Fountain Ave is the quickest route, but I take Bette’s advice a little further north to “Franklin Ave.”, an east/west thoroughfare stretched like a guitar string across Hollywood. Along the way is Franklin Village, a fun few blocks studded with eclectic gems like Upright Citizens Brigade comedy club, Counterpoint Records & Books , and the essential Daily Planet Newsstand . Park your Corvette in front of Birds Hollywood , a favorite roost for rotisserie chicken lovers since 1994, where one’s pet may also enjoy a proper meal of pulled chicken served in a paper cup. Finally, indulge the “Last Cappuccino before the 101” at Clark Street Diner the classic Hollywood diner, immortalized in the 1996 film "Swingers", just a pancake throw from the almost-hidden Hollywood Freeway on-ramps at Argyle Ave. ___ Ephemeral Glamour Hollywood fame is like makeup. Stunning, and fleeting. Stars shine, until they fade. Some are reborn as lookalikes. Dead stars walking. The boulevard is graced with their likenesses. Painted. Glowing. Some in life-size, some supersized. Some are actually alive, even as they shoot themselves in the foot protesting an improper omelette. Yet still they shine. ___ The HOLLYWOOD Sign In 1923, Los Angeles Times publisher Harry Chandler spent $21,000. to erect a billboard for his hillside real estate development dubbed HOLLYWOODLAND. In contrast with Chandler’s lofty vision, down-on-her-luck actress, Peg Entwistle leapt to her death from atop the “H” in 1932. A decade later, the letters “LAND” met their own demise as the development went belly up, leaving “HOLLYWOOD” spelling out neglect and decay. In 1977, Hugh Hefner hosted a gala fundraiser at the Playboy Mansion, where the Sign letters were auctioned off, one at a time for $27,700 each. Glam-rocker Alice Cooper “bought” an “O” (in honor of Groucho Marx). Gene Autry got an “L” and Andy Williams snatched up the “W.” Thanks to these sponsors, a brand new sign was born in 1978, taking its place in history as the world’s most famous outdoor signage. ___ Hollywood Shadow Project A captivating series of seven installations located throughout the production area of Hollywood projected iconic movie scenes and titles in a whole new light. Late afternoon sunlight passes through these sculptures that resemble old billboards, casting silhouetted shadows onto neighboring buildings at movie screen sizes. Like so much about Hollywood, the fantasy is fleeting, with most of the 2001 sculptures now having been taken down in the process of modernizing tinseltown. Cameron McNall , Architect ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Glazed in the light of centuries past, this launching pad to the Age of Discoveries is lined with dramatic bluffs resembling fortress walls, yet far more welcoming. The warmth of the southern sunlight still illuminates dreams like those of the 16th Century explorers who set sail from these shores. ALGARVE, PORTUGAL Glazed in the light of centuries past, this launching pad to the Age of Discoveries is lined with dramatic bluffs resembling fortress walls, yet far more welcoming. The warmth of the southern sunlight still illuminates dreams like those of the 16th Century explorers who set sail from these shores. Seaborne Inspiration The villages of Luz, Salema and Lago lay nestled along Albufeira coastline, as if borne of the sea. Patterns and colors of the tides decorate local homes and shops while cafes serve up its bounty as an art form. Below the craggy cliffs, the ocean swirls in turquoise, as the squinting sun reveals miles of beaches as far as the eyes can see. ___ The Ultimate Catch Rows of umbrellas mimic the arrangement of neighboring 19th century terracotta octopus traps on the beach at Salema. As vacationers nest in circles of shade, unwitting octopus slide into these amphora shaped shelters lying in wait on the sea floor. As they have since Phoenician times, Portuguese fishermen haul in the long ropes attached to these vases, along with their tentacled catch inside, soon becoming the day’s menu staple. ___ Island of Childlike Delight The island of Armona is like a child’s toy village where every structure along its single boardwalk seems to have been built at 7/8th’s scale. Originally the rustic roost of weathered fishermen, these old abodes now serve as the vacation homes of artists, musicians and other alternative raconteurs. ___ Star(fish) Trek A charming sand-swept beach bar, located at a definitive bend in the boardwalk offers a delicious reason to stop midway on one’s trek to the shore. All necessities and luxuries are delivered via this narrow path, including drinking water to the colorful array of former fishermen shacks. ___ Olhão, Yes! Back on the mainland, along this southern shore where Portugal bends to meet up with Spain, one discovers the cultural and culinary delights of Olhão and Tavira. These seaside towns are dotted with artisan shops and cafes so quaint one wishes they could be packed into our suitcases as well as our memories. ___ Portuguese Pavement Portugal is the one destination where visitors are encouraged not to look up as much as down because one mustn’t miss the intricate mosaic detail in the tiled streets, sidewalks and plazas. Calcada Portuguesa or “Portuguese Pavement” is the country’s signature design element. A treasured artisan trade that originated in Lisbon, and soon paved its way into every town, including Olhão where a father and son scurry home across one of many calcada showcases. ___ Southern Comfort The Rio Guadiana divides Portugal from Spain here on Europe’s southern shore like a slow-moving sword blade through sand. Both sides look similarly bleak, like a Wim Wenders landscape, however, some unexpectedly dreamy, beachy pockets lay just past the warehouses on Avenida Ville La Baule. The fresh fish and perfect fries at Dom Petisco on the river’s edge is, in itself, worth the drive to this end of Portugal. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Our top five favorite things to do in the vibrant and temple city of Kyoto, Japan. 1 Yasaka Pagoda Inspired by a dream, it was built by the Imperial Prince Shotoku in 589, standing dreamily ever since, like a beacon of grace above the whispers along the cobbled lanes of Gion . KYOTO, JAPAN 2 Juu-go Soba Cafe Here, perfect noodles are born before one’s eyes. Formed, sliced and swirled, as seen through the stage-like kitchen window, where the muscular chef/owner works at a pace mimicking timelapse photography. But once served, this soba commands slow motion to savor this buckwheat delight. KYOTO, JAPAN 3 Ginkaku-ji Temple With its otherworldly flat-topped cone resting like an alien space craft in the middle of the main garden and the many entrancing trails that braid up the hillside through a thoughtfully tended fantasy landscape, one knows they have arrived at an elevated plane, –visually and spiritually. KYOTO, JAPAN 4 Ryokan Genhouin A stay at this ryokan is as tranquil as a sleeping cat. In each room, a single-stem flower in a zen niche inspires contemplation. A renewing onsen invites guests to slip out of their kimonos and fold into the warm water bath —wide enough to include friends! KYOTO, JAPAN 5 Honen-in Temple Matcha tea is served in a bowl-like vessel alongside a matching-green squishy nugget of mochi in an intricate but relaxed wooden temple, where time stands still long enough for you to contemplate the moment. Outside, the structure and its sumptuous surroundings will attend to all your other senses. KYOTO, JAPAN Back FIVE FAVES Next

Our top five favorite things to do in the living metropolis of México City. 1 National Museum of Anthropology A massive mushroom-like umbrella balances atop a sequoia-sized pillar, perpetually bestowing a mesmerizing rain dance onto the museum courtyard below. Inside, galleries dazzle with artefacts from México's indigenous Maya, Aztec and Olmec cultures. A must-see, must-absorb experience in beautiful Polanco. MÉXICO CITY, MÉXICO 2 San Ángel Inn A Colonial era Eden where shaded verandas and verdant courtyards meet like lovers. Temptation here is the signature margarita, served “up” in salt-rimmed martini glasses. One’s second dose is kept chilled in a personal-size silver ice bucket. Any pain or suffering carried in upon arrival no longer registers as of the 2nd round. The table-side Caesar salad takes two waiters to whisk to perfection, but leave room (and time) for the bakery and gift shop! MÉXICO CITY, MÉXICO 3 Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo Studio Standing in artful contrast with its Colonial-era San Angel neighborhood, “Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo” appears like an architectural space craft. Its Martian-orange moderne facade glows like the masterworks that were created inside. The co-habited home/studio of iconic artists Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo still seems abuzz with their artworks and tools displayed just as they left them. MÉXICO CITY, MÉXICO 4 Juárez Home to artists and intellectuals in past eras, this historic neighborhood now thrives with contemporary shops and restaurants nestled comfortably in 19th century townhouses. Modern Korean cuisine sizzles in the area’s K-Town, as does a proud gay community in its “Pink Zone”. Juarez is all about bespoke clothes, cultural curios, swank salons, and dreamy cafes. MÉXICO CITY, MÉXICO 5 Panadaría Rosetta The best reason to wake up in México City, no matter how bad the jet lag. Slip onto a stool and just ponder the truly phenomenal array of pastry options. We’re talking the best pastries of all time. This is why we travel to México City. Not to mention Rosetta’s scrumptious cortado, which assures a bright-eyed start to your CDMX morning. MÉXICO CITY, MÉXICO Image courtesy of Panadaría Rosetta Back FIVE FAVES Next

The beauty and effervescence of wine country runs deep in the Douro River Valley. The river flows gently, like vino verde into your glass, sparkling at the foot of steep stepped hillsides that climb like vines towards the sky. DOURO RIVER, PORTUGAL The beauty and effervescence of wine country runs deep in the Douro River Valley. The river flows gently, like vino verde into your glass, sparkling at the foot of steep stepped hillsides that climb like vines towards the sky. Uncorking Portugal’s Wine Country Arrive by train, or boat, or car, but no matter your desired conveyance, the river will guide you. It is central to the magic of this region. We like the vintage steam train with its billowing cumulus floating briefly over the river, as we chug along its bends and curves. Rows of grape vines flash by, blending into the ripples on the water. Bathers, tucked in to tranquil river eddies wave as we roll by with a whistle heralding our arrival. ___ An Artisanal Landscape Casa dos Viscondes is splayed out across the landscape like a welcoming picnic blanket, complete with the basket of delights. A long driveway leads through the gates and builds with excitement as we wind our way past the vineyards to the main house. Glorious views open onto the hills as cloud shadows make their way like watercolor animation. ___ Reasons to Howl Here the day goes by with little notice of the time. Especially for the master of the Casa, holding court on the front steps, who assumes guests will make the hurdle over his reddish haunches. In the nearby town of Peso da Régua, shop walls are lined with wine bottled bookshelves like studious libraries. ___ Days of Heaven Like in a daydream, our hotel lay nestled in the folds of steep hillside vineyards along the Douro River, just a few beautiful hours upstream from Porto via train or boat. Once settled in, a long turquoise pool awaits, framed by a summer lawn as warm and soft as a fresh towel. The day is topped off with the crisp delight of local vino verde. The hot sun will soon cool behind the trees as dinner is readied up at the main house. Its stone terrace setting the stage for moonlit retellings of the days’ adventures. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Down near the Mexican border, some 236 feet below sea level, a once-vast lake lies adrift in the desert like a fading mirage. SALTON SEA, CA Down near the Mexican border, some 236 feet below sea level, a once-vast lake appears adrift in the desert like a fading mirage. In the early 1900s, a breach in two irrigation canals sent the entire volume of the Colorado River pouring onto a dry lake bed then known as the “Salton Sink.” Biblical-style flooding followed, surging unabated for nearly two years. Decades later, runoff from “seaside” farms flowed into the lake, regularly replenishing this improbable paradise. BOMBAY BEACH One hour down Highway 111 from Palm Springs — just past Mecca — lies the almost-ghost town of Bombay Beach, a rough-hewn holy land where art is religion, gilded in rust. A five-by-eight-block rectangle of ruins and renewal, population: 224. On every block, artists have repurposed broken trailers and vacant houses into graffiti-clad art galleries. ___ PERMANENT EPHEMERA Back in the Rat Pack era, celebrities water-skied right up to the “Ski Inn,” a jovial dive bar that still serves cocktails and home cooking despite the shrinking shoreline, now barely visible in the distance. Along the beach, surreal ruins stand mired in the landscape like a mud version of Pompeii — a testament to the relentless rains of the 1970s that suddenly swelled the lake and swallowed the town. Yet today, the enclave is rising again from the dust and cracked clay, repurposing desolation into a blank canvas for creative expression. ___ BOMBAY BEACH BIENNALE “The Bombay Beach Biennale is a renegade celebration of art, music, and philosophy that takes place on the literal edge of Western civilization—the shores of the Salton Sea. It was founded in 2015 as a public arts event untethered from the commercial art world of galleries, museums, and art fairs, and as a tool to amplify the largely unknown and ignored ecological crisis of the Salton Sea.” — Bombay Beach Biennale The Biennale is an entirely free and public happening. Everything is open to anyone who can find their way to Bombay Beach. Weekly programming includes workshops, music and dance performances, open-air opera, film screenings, and outdoor art installations. “While in season, the Bombay Beach Biennale transforms the abandoned housing, vacant lots, and decaying shoreline of the Salton Sea into a unique canvas for creative expression, social practice, and critical thought.” This includes a “drive-in theater” by artists Stefan Ashkenazy and Sean Dale Taylor, who gathered rusted cars from Imperial Valley scrap yards and “parked” them facing a movie screen—aka the side of a semi-trailer painted white. The official “Biennale Season” starts on January 1 each year and concludes with a celebratory weekend in the spring, the exact dates of which are spread only by word of mouth. There are Airbnb options, as well as ample outdoor space for tent camping and RVs. Come enjoy high art at the lowest point in America. ___ FINDING SALVATION More than 100,000 gallons of paint and 22 years of toil were devoted to one man’s mission of love. Leonard Knight was part artist, part evangelist, and part dreamer who walked the walk — and he could hoist a hay bale up a two-story ladder by himself! Hay bales were to him what giant stones were to the ancient Egyptians. But rather than a pyramid, Leonard built a mountain out of adobe clay mixed with hay, then painted it with scenes of rivers, waterfalls, flowers, and proclamations that “God Is Love.” Image courtesy of salvationmountain.org He maintained that “love is the strongest force on Earth” and was determined to get that message out for the world to see. Thus began his mission to build Salvation Mountain, complete with a painted yellow brick road leading to giant 3-D letters at its peak spelling out “GOD IS LOVE.” His masterpiece also includes an adobe “igloo” supported by a “tree pillar” made of stacked truck tires and found branches — its interior, of course, decorated in his signature colors-of-love style. Located on the outskirts of Niland, near Slab City, Salvation Mountain is open to all, from dawn to dusk. ___ SAVE OUR SEA The Salton Sea is beautiful but tragic. Pollution from agricultural runoff and other factors has rendered its beauty unsafe. Nearly twice as salty as the Pacific Ocean, it is now largely avoided by both native and migrating wildlife. It is evaporating faster than it can be replenished and may literally become a mirage in the not-so-distant future. And then there’s the airborne toxic dust kicked up from its now-dry shoreline that can reach Palm Springs and even Los Angeles. Conservation efforts to establish new wetlands offer some hope, while bolder proposals to refill the Salton Sea using water from the Sea of Cortez dare us to dream of a renewed and flourishing paradise — like the version where Frank Sinatra and Desi Arnaz vacationed a half-century ago. Salton Sea Conservancy ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Indulge in timeless charm on this island between Italy and Croatia. Life between the rolling azure sea and the rows of verdant hillside vineyards is like a dance on this romantic outpost on the Adriatic. VIS ISLAND, CROATIA Indulge in timeless charm on this island between Italy and Croatia. Life between the rolling azure sea and the rows of verdant hillside vineyards is like a dance on this romantic outpost on the Adriatic. Dress Code : Swimsuit Giving new meaning to “Palm Sunday”, fireworks-shaped palm tree shadows lead the way from an afternoon dip back to the boat, where the only question will be whether to stay in your wet swim trunks or change into dry ones. After that, the island of Vis awaits further exploration, be it by land or sea. Either way, you’re guaranteed a beautiful time, as only a Croatian island can deliver. But one thing’s for certain, those trunks won’t be dry for long. ___ Intoxicating Beauty The swim-up town of Vis rests in the nook of a yacht-studded bay. The westernmost island of the south Dalmatian archipelago, Vis is located 32 miles from the mainland of Croatia and 94 miles from Italy. This comfortable distance in either direction has kept Vis less crowded than its neighbor islands. Terracotta rooftops and verdant hillsides, etched with family vineyards make the beauty of Vis all the more intoxicating. ___ Stiniva Beach A jewel treasured since the 4th century BC when Dionysus settled a Greek colony here, Vis is rich in turquoise coves and blessed with tranquil waters that beckon an afternoon dip. Secluded Stiniva Beach is reached only by boat or a steep cliff trail that's not too terrifying (once you're down) where the gods have saved you a spot. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next