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TAMARINDO, MEXICO
After a rough-hewn ride in from the Manzanillo (ZLO) airport, the sweeping ocean vistas and stunning architectural forms of the Four Seasons Tamarindo resort suddenly come into view, making an unforgettable impression on the senses. Like finding a black diamond in the sand, this modernist stone, glass and concrete temple dazzles on every level.
Costalegre - Coast of Joy
Costalegre is a magical, hidden region of Jalisco, Mexico. A perfect stretch of unspoiled coastline, south of Puerto Vallarta, revered for its pristine beauty, rugged landscapes and peaceful bliss. Five of Mexico’s most respected design firms, together envisioned a resort that blends seamlessly into the peninsula’s tranquility. Nestled within a private nature reserve, Tamarindo is a sanctuary that honors Mexico’s rich cultural traditions, and provides guests with immersive experiences that delight and enlighten. Or, just immerse in the pool and sip on some of the creative achievements from the bar!
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An Unforgettable Entrance
The lobby of the Four Seasons Tamarindo seems to defy gravity as the massive concrete structure hovers like a hummingbird, cantilevered over the landscape—while also blending into it. Modernist shapes extend like wings while infinity pools flutter in concert with the sea. Each time entering this open air gateway, one is reminded of that breathtaking moment upon first arrival. An epiphany repeated throughout one’s stay.
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Swim-up Fantasy
Azure pools seem to meld with the matching sea. Like one’s own ocean, lapping right up to the edge of your lounger. Terraces trace the hillside as it ambles down to the beach, each level defined with pools so inviting that you may never make it to the sand. The sunlight sparkles on the water like sequins as one hears the sea whisper “may I get you a margarita?”. Or was that the waiter? Hard to tell when swimming in a dream.
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Private Paradise
From the rather excellent viewpoint of our suite’s poolside hammock, I watch as a butterfly flits about at alternating altitudes, seemingly flummoxed by the abundant choices. Much like the decision-making we’re tasked with today: choosing between a spa treatment, a beach walk, the tortilla-making class, or maybe just staying in the room, wearing cushy robes and reading books atop the fluffy cloud known as the Four Seasons Signature bed. Best to rinse off such indecision under the sparkling spritz of our outdoor shower. A single ray of sunlight sneaks a peek into the privacy of our wet-room balcony, afloat over the sea bluffs like that breezy butterfly.
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Architecture
Local textures, contours and colors serve as design guidelines for the architecture of Tamarindo. Details found in the natural environment here are thoughtfully interpreted in the structures’ forms and surfaces. Native stone dramatically frame passageways, some inspired by sea caves. Blue tiles line every pool, dovetailing seamlessly with the color of sea, as if as one body of water. Architects Victor Legorreta, Mauricio Rocha and Mario Schjetnan of LegoRocha designed the resort and the neighboring private residences. The exquisite minimalist interiors are the work of Uribe Krayer and Estudio Esterlina. The inspired natural landscapes were crafted by the gifted Mario Schjetnan.
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Image courtesy of Four Seasons Resort Tamarindo
Savoring Tamarindo
One soon becomes familiar with the resident tres amigos of fine food options, Coyul, Sal & Nacho. Coyul feels like home with its sweet staff and comfy seating welcoming you with open (air) arms. A setting so impressive one must remember to eat–which is easy given the unbelievable Rosetta pastries by morning and scrumptious hand-made Mexican favorites at lunch and dinner. Then there’s Sal, a shell’s throw above the surf, with unparalleled fresh fish and seafood, the source of which is rolling by right in front of you. Nacho Taqueria is our favorite secret spot, slyly tucked away on a stone terrace, pumping out great music, creative cocktails and amazing tacos. Or, simply remain in your swim suits and dine in-room!
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Divine History
Class convenes today at happy hour. Our professor/sommelier enthralls us with an exploration of Mexico's past as charted by the proliferation of winemaking through the centuries. With each informative sip, we learn about Mexico’s oldest wine-producing regions and traditions of the craft. Carefully selected wines from Guanajuato, San Luis Potosí and Coahuila lead us along the Real de Tierra Adentro, complete with a leather treasure map unrolled beneath rows of shimmering stemware backlit by the retiring sun. Our thirst for knowledge quenched just in time for dinner—with an enhanced appreciation of the wine list.
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Imbibing Perfection
There’s something about the twist of a lemon rind, with its hypnotic spritz of citrus scenting the chilled edge of one’s glass. The misty crescendo of cocktail crafting. During this magic show, the ocean appears to fill our glasses as it undulates in the distance, framing the talented conjurer behind the bar. The horizon is bright, like a light box waiting for images of soon-cherished moments to be added. Our tapered stemware mimics the pool umbrellas, filtering the lazy light at dusk here at the Coyul bar.
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Breakfast on the Bluff
To shed some recently-acquired calories, we schedule an early morning hike through the Tamarindo private nature preserve. We are greeted by our guide as the dawn makes quick work of the “darkest hour”, sending a zillion stars packing. Our path winds through the protected jungle, as unique tree and bird species are ID’d along the way. Soon the view opens to the El Tamarindo Golf Course where the morning sky arches overhead. A deep arroyo reveals the course’s majestic seaside Par 3, 9th hole. We, however are not here to swack egg-size balls. Our trophy is a spectacular post-hike Four Seasons “breakfast-anywhere” private picnic, thoughtfully prepared atop a serene sea bluff. We reflect on the morning’s invigorating nature excursion as we resume our exercise in indulgence with fresh croissants, fruit, charcuterie and coffee.
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La Playa For Ya
The beach at Tamarindo is a quick golf cart ride from room-to-lounger. If they know you’re coming they’ll have your Aperol Spritz waiting for you. Lunch too, served at your shaded stakeout in beachy bento boxes. The bay laps in like a lake with its gentle waves and wide crescent shore that seems to reach all the way up to LA. The water is warm and welcoming, as is the sand, with an array of spiral and scalloped shells enjoying their long-awaited shore leave. Possible souvenirs of a perfect day in the Jalisco surf and sun.
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Nature of Tamarindo
Hawks and gulls hang on the breeze overhead, as migrating whales are sighted in the distance spouting salt spray into the air. Down on the beach, tiny crabs dash sideways between the whitewater and their personal safety portals. The impressive 3,000 acre nature preserve that surrounds the resort like a botanical moat is being “rewilded” by a dedicated team of on-site biologists and conservationists to restore the jungle’s natural rhythms and to protect its wildlife. White-throated Magpie Jays with incredible long blue feathered tails and singing Collared-Forest Falcons cohabit in the branches of a Tescalame tree which, curiously, grows horizontally.
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Image courtesy of Four Seasons Resort Tamarindo
Ahhh, The Spa
The Four Seasons Tamarindo Spa is a masterpiece of architectural design that exudes relaxation and contemplation. Minimalist open-air courtyards bring to mind the Zen gardens of Kyoto, while the sound of water slipping over etched stone transports the soul to a gentle creek in the Redwoods. The spa personnel are cheerful and gentle, inviting guests to feel at home in this simple elegance, where architectural prowess inspires personal renewal.
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Such a delight to enter a beautifully designed retail space with soaring ceilings and light-inviting windows showcasing a collection of thoughtfully-curated wares. Adjoining the open-air Tamarindo lobby, the store becomes a favorite stop on one’s daily commute to paradise. Every piece on display, be it jewelry, ceramics or garment is hand-made in Mexico. More than a “gift shop”, it serves as a comprehensive design exhibition of Mexican creative talent. One craftsperson, we’re told, is a young girl who grew up blind but taught herself the art of ceramics. Her whimsical animal-themed bowls featured throughout the store bring light and levity to the world.
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SPOTLIGHT: Tortilla Talent Scouting
In Mexico, behind every great meal is a great tortilla. A corn tortilla. It may look simple, perfectly round and plain, but such minimalism is indeed art. And like any artform, it requires passion, precision (and tricep strength).
With tortillas, it all starts with a kernel of knowledge about softening the gravel-like key ingredient to grind it into a paste. Just like most of us, a good long soak in a warm bath takes the fight out of the corn. Then on to the massage table known as the “metate”, an ancient stone + rolling pin device still favored today for pulverizing the toughest corn into a workable substance. That is, if one has the rippling musculature for the job. (A half a glass of Rosé helps fuel our needed gusto boost). Then it’s roll-baby, roll! One may settle into a meditative corn-crushing groove until gently cajoled back to reality by Tamarindo’s resident tortilla master who is tasked with teaching us the subtleties of this revered kitchen tradition.
Next it’s press-time. We roll our corn mush into palm-sized balls and place them on a wood press that clamps down upon the subject like printing Gutenberg bibles. Release the pressure and voila, a perfectly round raw tortilla is formed! Now try getting said round, thin, flat and sticky tortilla off the press and on to the wood-fired “comal” that looks like a fiery kettle drum, flames shooting out from underneath its floured surface. But after a few tries we manage to pull it off, literally. We drop our objects d’art on the searing surface and watch as they bubble and lightly brown. We quickly find out though that flipping the tortilla without burning one’s fingertips is also an art. One that the rest of our rosé can’t help. We let the master flip them. Now it’s time to add variety. We crank out more tortillas, one batch topped with cheese, another with mushrooms, and finally, my personal favorite, the toile-like cilantro festooned tortilla, with each green leaf baked-in like inlay.
As class is dismissed, our graduation is celebrated with a toast and a tasting of our corn creations. This new-found tortilla-enlightening now tops our list of the (many) pleasures of Tamarindo.
Corn Heritage Cooking Class
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