SEARCH RESULTS

Where dreams rise like champagne bubbles ...or languish like shipwrecks. Either way, the allure of this industry town remains irresistible and its imprint indelible. HOLLYWOOD, CALIFORNIA Where dreams rise like champagne bubbles ...or languish like shipwrecks. Either way, the allure of this industry town remains irresistible and its imprint indelible. Paramount Studios Tour Some movie studio tours are like amusement park rides, complete with thrills and spills, but the Paramount Studios Tour is a true backstage pass. This walking-and-golf-cart exploration quickly confirms Paramount as the original home of movie magic, (proudly noting it’s the only major studio with a view of the HOLLYWOOD sign). Right out of the gate, (literally) we’re immersed in film history, as we walk through the very Bronson gate where Norma Desmond, famously declared “without me there wouldn’t be any Paramount Studios!” in the film noir classic “Sunset Boulevard”. The New York backlot is so convincing one might crave a bagel, despite the surreal backdrop of palm trees. Peering into the cavernous darkness of Stage 18 one learns that Alfred Hitchcock poked the floorboards with his walking stick and demanded they be removed to accommodate the tall set for “Rear Window” with its courtyard apartments built to scale. Then there’s Stage 1, where Orson Welles shot “Citizen Kane”. The VIP tour takes you inside the archive vault for a deeper dive into cinematic lore. The grand finale is the fantastic Paramount prop room filled with curiosities one might expect to find in Tim Burton’s garage. ___ Yo-Yo Ma at the Hollywood Bowl Like a clam shell presenting its pearl, the Hollywood Bowl is a treasured gift for great performers and fortunate audiences. Opened in 1929, the concentric arches rising over its iconic stage host the LA Philharmonic’s summer performances as well as a steady stream of stars shining under the evening sky. Here, Cellist Yo-Yo Ma single-handedly captivated the crowd playing the Bach Suites, straight through from memory. A composition written 300 years ago, conjured to life in this stellar setting by a modern master. ___ Once Upon A Time In Hollywood… The oldest restaurant in LA, The Musso & Frank Grill —since 1919 remains largely unchanged after 100+ years, yet is more popular today than ever. Many of the adored staff are “lifer’s”, one of whom, Alonso recently retired after 48 years. It is said that Charlie Chaplin would challenge Douglas Fairbanks to a horse race down Hollywood Boulevard, and the winner had to pick up the tab at Musso’s. Ah, the price of victory! To quote Michael Callahan’s book chronicling its history, “Musso’s became the clubhouse for the most peculiar band of misfits that rotated through Hollywood’s golden age –writers.” F. Scott Fitzgerald proofread his novels at a booth at Musso’s. William Faulkner met his mistress of 20 years here. Raymond Chandler wrote chapters of “The Big Sleep” while sipping cocktails in the Back Room. T.S. Elliot, Aldous Huxley, John Steinbeck and Dorothy Parker all called the Musso’s bar “home” while Anaïs Nin penned some of her diaries on that hallowed wood. Humphrey Bogart stood mesmerized by Lauren Bacall at the bar, and, I personally witnessed a similar swoon as Madonna studied Sean Penn’s eyes in a booth to themselves. TIP: always look into every booth as you’re escorted to your table. Chances are you’ll encounter some very famous faces only slightly hidden behind martini glasses. ___ Cinespia at Hollywood Forever Classic films come back to life under the stars at Hollywood Forever cemetery. Cinespia offers summer weekend screenings, al fresco on the vast Fairbanks Lawn, so named for the adjacent crypt housing both Douglas Fairbanks, Sr. and Jr. An eclectic range of films are projected onto the west wall of the Cathedral Mausoleum, which houses the crypt of Rudolph Valentino among many other notables of celluloid lore. A few steps away, Johnny Ramone plays on from atop his crypt. Bring a picnic blanket and all the trimmings, but come early to stake out your plot! ___ Hollyhock House “With a radical client like Miss Barnsdall, a site like Olive Hill, a climate like California, an architect head on for freedom, something had to happen…” —Frank Lloyd Wright Architect, Frank Lloyd Wright channeled the magnificence of Mayan temples in this 1921 home that transcended all convention for residential design. Rising just above the sparkle of Hollywood, Hollyhock House crowns Olive Hill, now known as Barnsdall Art Park , a gathering place for talent of all ages, origins and interests. Founded by the estate of Aline Barnsdall, the original owner of the home, an eccentric eastern aristocrat with a penchant for the arts. ___ Rooftop Hollywood Several new hotels line the boulevards like Oscars with flat tops. Each one crowned with a jewel sized pool. Up here, the sky becomes a silver screen as the ocean air pulls across. Drinks float on the tattooed arms of waiters who silently recite lines for tomorrow’s audition. Shadows that lounged all day under yellow umbrellas vanish as the sun finds its seat. Thompson Hotel Hollywood The Godfrey Hotel Hollywood Dream Hotels The Everly Hollywood W Hollywood ___ Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel Pool Aqua water quivers like David Hockney brush strokes, mirroring the actual swirls he famously painted on the bottom of the pool here in 1988 with a paintbrush tied to a broom handle. An Olympic sized rectangle that stretches out like swimmer’s legs across a mid century courtyard. The Roosevelt pool deck has seen it all. Debauchery, dreams. deals and divas. Bikinis, mojitos, burgers and fries, all together under the brilliant beige sky, where one’s afternoon plans drift away like pool floats. ___ Hiking Hollywood Griffith Park is the largest municipal park in the US. 50 miles of trails wiggle through folding hillsides that form a diorama of the Southern California landscape, —right in the middle of the city. Here, LA’s best hikes lead to the top of Mt Hollywood where sweeping views to the west crescendo at the edge of the sea. A silver sheen of ocean air softens the horizon, while, off to the east, downtown LA rises like Oz. Four times the size of San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park and five times the size of Central Park in New York, Griffith Park boasts 4300+ acres of rugged, (and often star studded) scenery. ___ Hollywood Mixology A whisper of Vermouth meets the mist of lemon, consummating a classic Hollywood relationship. There’s something about stemware that puts dreams on a pedestal while elevating the moment. Similarly, a ring of sea salt bestows upon a proper Paloma its well deserved crown. The night is young and well served, under the stars at Superba on Sunset, or at the bar at The Musso & Frank Grill or embraced in a sumptuous booth at Mes Amis where your table is set like a movie scene at Thompson Hotel Hollywood . ___ Vetting Hollywood Bette Davis famously quipped when asked what’s the best way for an aspiring actress to get into Hollywood?, “Take Fountain”. Indeed Fountain Ave is the quickest route, but I take Bette’s advice a little further north to “Franklin Ave.”, an east/west thoroughfare stretched like a guitar string across Hollywood. Along the way is Franklin Village, a fun few blocks studded with eclectic gems like Upright Citizens Brigade comedy club, Counterpoint Records & Books , and the essential Daily Planet Newsstand . Park your Corvette in front of Birds Hollywood , a favorite roost for rotisserie chicken lovers since 1994, where one’s pet may also enjoy a proper meal of pulled chicken served in a paper cup. Finally, indulge the “Last Cappuccino before the 101” at Clark Street Diner the classic Hollywood diner, immortalized in the 1996 film "Swingers", just a pancake throw from the almost-hidden Hollywood Freeway on-ramps at Argyle Ave. ___ Ephemeral Glamour Hollywood fame is like makeup. Stunning, and fleeting. Stars shine, until they fade. Some are reborn as lookalikes. Dead stars walking. The boulevard is graced with their likenesses. Painted. Glowing. Some in life-size, some supersized. Some are actually alive, even as they shoot themselves in the foot protesting an improper omelette. Yet still they shine. ___ The HOLLYWOOD Sign In 1923, Los Angeles Times publisher Harry Chandler spent $21,000. to erect a billboard for his hillside real estate development dubbed HOLLYWOODLAND. In contrast with Chandler’s lofty vision, down-on-her-luck actress, Peg Entwistle leapt to her death from atop the “H” in 1932. A decade later, the letters “LAND” met their own demise as the development went belly up, leaving “HOLLYWOOD” spelling out neglect and decay. In 1977, Hugh Hefner hosted a gala fundraiser at the Playboy Mansion, where the Sign letters were auctioned off, one at a time for $27,700 each. Glam-rocker Alice Cooper “bought” an “O” (in honor of Groucho Marx). Gene Autry got an “L” and Andy Williams snatched up the “W.” Thanks to these sponsors, a brand new sign was born in 1978, taking its place in history as the world’s most famous outdoor signage. ___ Hollywood Shadow Project A captivating series of seven installations located throughout the production area of Hollywood projected iconic movie scenes and titles in a whole new light. Late afternoon sunlight passes through these sculptures that resemble old billboards, casting silhouetted shadows onto neighboring buildings at movie screen sizes. Like so much about Hollywood, the fantasy is fleeting, with most of the 2001 sculptures now having been taken down in the process of modernizing tinseltown. Cameron McNall , Architect ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

A stunning storybook town unfolds in the mist, revealing wedding cake castles and stone fortresses from ions past. Step into this fairytale world, just an hour’s train ride from modern Lisbon. SINTRA, PORTUGAL A stunning storybook town unfolds in the mist, revealing wedding cake castles and stone fortresses from ions past. Step into this fairytale world, just an hour’s train ride from modern Lisbon. Moor is More Just an hour by train from Lisbon, the Sintra Cultural Landscape , a UNESCO World Heritage Site is crowned by the expansive Castle of the Moors. Constructed between the 8th and 9th centuries, it ascends the hillsides like a creature from beneath the earth. Its stepped battlements give rise to scenes of marauding armies, relentlessly challenging it through generations. Today it stands open to all, beckoning visitors to traverse its ancient walls. ___ Pena Palace Across the hillsides from the Moorish Castle, the colorful facades of the National Palace of Pena emerge through the morning fog. Originally the residence of 9th century Islamic Moorish rulers, it was later captured by Portugal’s first king, Afonso Henriques, The Conqueror in the 12th century. The playful, present day melange of Gothic, Manueline, Moorish and Mudéjar architectural styles were added in the 15th and 16th centuries. Inside and out, the palace and it’s nearby gardens are a royal dazzle for the eye. Testament to its strategic hilltop-near-the-sea location, fog and mist add mystery to timeless charm. A feathered patrol paddles the meandering ponds like royal sentries while expressive gargoyles oversee the higher grounds. ___ Storybook Storefronts It’s not just about castles and royals in Sintra, as the townsfolk illustrate with genuine warmth. I am drawn to the little shops and cafes clustered along the hill where charm is rendered in tile mosaics on shop walls and spelled out on steps leading to their doors. ___ Quinta da Regaleira There are many extravagant palaces in Sintra whose soaring spires punctuate the sky, but this one points down 27-meters into the ground like an inverted tower. Imagine the dark, medieval dampness below ground as you descend the spiral staircase alone, blindfolded, a sword held close to your heart. Nine flights of stairs into the earth – a number that represents the nine founders of the mysterious Templar order, you reach the bottom of the well, not for water, but to walk the dark labyrinth trying to find your way back up towards the light. If you made it you were welcomed as a newly initiated member of the sect. Today, one’s initiation to Quinta da Regaleira includes a lesson in patience as you wait for the crowd to clear before snapping your cinematic moment on the spiral staircase. After all, patience is a virtue, even for Instagrammers. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

A curated list of what not to miss. This is The City of Lights, not just because of its nighttime glow, but because of the illumination it brings to one’s heart and mind. PARIS, FRANCE A curated list of what not to miss. This is The City of Lights, not just because of its nighttime glow, but because of the illumination it brings to one’s heart and mind. FIVE FAVES / PARIS Musée Rodin If there’s one tip I can confidently impart to those visiting (or residing in) Paris it is the Musée Rodin at sundown, just before they close for the day. Sunlight pours like Viognier through the tall windows, glazing the walls with diagonal stripes, while draping the bare musculature of Rodin’s subjects in form-fitting couture light. The storied residence of sculptor Auguste Rodin is veiled in a lace of shadows as late sunlight sketches fleeting patterns across the room. Faces that the artist suspended in time a hundred years ago look away as the sun finds a place to rest in the garden until tomorrow. ___ Parc de la Villette Architect Bernard Tschumi designed the Parc de la Villette, with the intention of creating “a space that exists in a vacuum”, something without historical precedent, to allow for the existence of a “non-place” based on “culture” rather than “nature.” The design of the park is a groundbreaking example of architectural deconstructivism. “By allowing visitors to experience the architecture of the park within this constructed vacuum, the time and activities that take place in that space begin to acquire a more vivid and authentic nature.” In simpler terms, it’s big, open and not at all structured like the Parisian parks of old. La Géode in the Sciences Center is an otherworldly mirrored dome housing an Omnimax theatre. ___ Paris Philharmonic Designed by Jean Nouvel, the new home of the Paris Philharmonic is renowned for its near perfect acoustics. The convulsing metallic exterior with interlocking MC Escher-esque patterns looks alive in the changing daylight and luminous at night. It is one of several civic music facilities located within Parc de la Villette . ___ Crepes as Art In the right hands, crepes become “origami”. Gently flipped and folded, a paper-thin circle of buckwheat becomes sculptural rapture, be it savory or sweet. This artwork also serves as sustenance for those seeking rest and replenishment midway up the steep hillside climb to Sacré Coeur. I recommend one such haven from those unforgiving stairs, where works of creperie art are rendered daily: Rozell Café & Creperie , Montmartre. ___ Pinault Collection Presented in the rotunda of the reimagined Bourse de Commerce , a group of monumental sculptures composed of wax, each with candles inside are lit on the first day of the exhibition. As the candles melt, the sculptures gradually disintegrate, sending faces, arms and other appendices crashing to the gallery floor, which, in turn become part of the exhibit. The renovated space is itself a work of art by Japanese architect Tadao Ando that is nothing short of spectacular. Multiple galleries now ring the 1800’s building in modern art, forming the latest must-see art venue in Paris. Untitled (2011) by Swiss artist Urs Fischer ___ Le Louvre If the sky were not dark you’d swear it was daylight. Such is the ambiance of an evening in the twin courtyards of Le Louvre . A glow that takes your breath away when stepping through the arched gateways into this sanctum of light. Cellos and flutes resonate in the open corridors, played by lone musicians hoping that a passerby’s euros will alight upon their performance. ___ Morning Light in St. Germain Saint Germain des Prés is a neighborhood that connotes masterpiece scenes of the Left Bank. The obsession of every self guided art tour of Paris. Where poets, artists and philosophers famously conversed at Café Flore over the roar of possibilities. Yet, here inside the church, a centuries old stillness is anointed in the colors of stained glass. A reverence so hushed one can almost hear the candles fluttering, or the prayers for which they burn. The brilliant author and musician, Patti Smith was recently in Paris on tour with her reunited band and posted a brief description of her morning walk: “I lit candles in the St Germain church for the children of the world, and then went to say hello to Picasso’s tribute to his friend, the poet Apollinaire, that beautiful head of Dora Maar (in the rear garden of the church) near Café de Flore.” Ah, a morning inspired by Patti Smith here where Sartre and Camus once philosophized over coffee in the fabled Left Bank of Paris. ___ Le Musée d’Orsay France has a love of art, and walks the walk to support it. In 1975, it was determined that a new museum was needed to represent the arts from the second half of the 19th century. At the same time, a retired Beaux-Arts train station was about to be demolished when visionary preservationists spoke up. Et voilà, the proposed museum and the rescued “gare” became one. Today, Le Musée d’Orsay is one of the world’s most inspired art spaces, housing artworks so famous and fabulous it weakens the knees. But its crescendo is the great clock window on the fifth floor. As cinematic and startling as a Hitchcock storyboard, this watch-work window provides the ultimate photo location and a sweeping view from the Seine to Sacré Coeur. ___ Le Centre Pompidou In making one’s way through the Marais neighborhood in Paris, the narrow stone streets suddenly widen like gates opening onto a fanciful world of color and form as Le Centre Pompidou comes into view. Renzo Piano’s early and revolutionary work literally turned architecture inside out by placing the traditionally hidden mechanical parts of a structure on the outside, forming what appears to be a wild bionic beast crouching in the middle of a 17th century village. A friendly beast though, with wonderful qualities. A generous art aficionado with room in his heart to share inspiration with architecture lovers on their pilgrimage to one of the great cultural venues of our time. ___ Le Jardin du Luxembourg With one’s first step into this grandest of all Paris gardens, Le Jardin du Luxembourg , the clamor of the 6th arrondissement quickly fades. The world itself, seems subdued into silence, except for the lapping of fountains. Ancient sculptures stand frozen in their moment, concealing centuries they’ve seen go by. Today, flowers overflow their urns while dreamers contort into green metal chairs, watching the daylight move across the formal garden like a lazy sundial. Images : The Medici Fountain was built in 1630 by Marie de’ Medici. "L'effort" bronze sculpture by Pierre Roche (1855-1922). Toy sailboats navigate the Central Fountain. 5 euros for 30 minutes of sailing. ___ INSPIRATION : A touch of France for your world at home. The French Boulle Desk My office is anchored in 19th century splendor from Napoleon III’s France, (but I acquired it in this century from Nickey/Kehoe ). This over-the-top desk is described in design parlance as “clean and classical, standing on fluted legs and decorated with brass inlays in motifs of the Louis XVI style.” Despite its “let them eat cake” appearance, the desk is actually quite utilitarian. Hidden within its deceivingly compact size, it boasts a massive single drawer that slips away unnoticed amid the froufrou. Tucked into the tight quarters of a Paris hotel in St. Germain, a helpful concierge plans out one’s day in the 6th arrondissement, executed in exquisite detail on a petit, black lacquer Boulle desk with added privacy panel. Back at home, a Boulle desk functions as a sort of personal concierge, providing an inspired place for charting life between travels. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

To paraphrase the song, Get Your Kicks on Route 66, “if you plan to motor west, take the way that's best. It winds from Chicago to L.A. More than 2000 miles all the way. St Louis, Oklahoma City, Amarillo, Gallup, Flagstaff, and don't forget Winona, Kingsman, Barstow, San Bernadino! Would you get hip to this kindly trip?” Well, hop in! We’ll take you on that California trip, from the beaches of Santa Monica to the desert sands of Needles. The California stretch of Route 66 is indeed a kick! CALIFORNIA ROUTE 66 To paraphrase the song, Get Your Kicks on Route 66, “If you plan to motor west, take the way that's best. It winds from Chicago to L.A. More than 2000 miles all the way. St Louis, Oklahoma City, Amarillo, Gallup, Flagstaff, and don't forget Winona, Kingsman, Barstow, San Bernadino! Would you get hip to this kindly trip?” Well, hop in! We’ll take you on that California trip, from the beaches of Santa Monica to the desert sands of Needles. The California stretch of Route 66 is indeed a kick! Celebrating 100 Years Kick #1 : SANTA MONICA The view of the pier from Palisades Park is one of the most beautiful roadside stops anywhere. The western edge of America perched above the shining sea. Ride the disco-lit ferris wheel as it rises to see the far reaches of Malibu to the north and Palos Verdes to the south. Then hop on the merry-go-round where your great-great-grandparents may have shared a kiss back in their day. Dine at The Lobster or Chez Jay or pull up for a shake, burger & fries at Mel’s Drive-In . Don’t forget to plug the juke box! You know the song. ___ Kick #2 : BEVERLY HILLS If the city is a diamond, the true jewel is Ringo Starr’s chrome-plated two-finger peace sign in Beverly Gardens Park that’s right on Route 66 (here called Santa Monica Blvd.) You can’t miss it, just east of the giant arching photo-op sign “B E V E R L Y H I L L S.” Get your high-fashion kicks (and leave all your money behind) in the glossy shops on Rodeo Drive or simply stroll the sun dappled streets of the Golden Triangle . ___ Kick #3 : WEST HOLLYWOOD Here’s where we find our ruby slippers–at the end of the rainbow. The proud capital of the gay world, where Route 66 is lined with purple Jacaranda trees and decorated in true colors. At the center of it all, stands The Abbey , inspiration for Chappell Roan’s song Pink Pony Club , but do not drive after dismounting from the bar! BTW, WeHo isn’t all gay, more a cultural intersection where citizens of all persuasions–and colors feel at home. Feel free to join drag queen bingo brunch or sip on a pirate’s cocktail at Lucky Tiki . Over on the east end of West Hollywood, slip into the Formosa Cafe where talent from Warner Hollywood Studios (next door) find fortification in chilled Singapore Slings and hot egg rolls, just as they have since the early days of Hollywood. ___ Kick #4 : ECHO PARK Back in 1892, loud echoes from the construction of the reservoir were heard across this natural glen (originally named Edendale). Hence the name change. So, if your motor backfires here, you may suddenly be introduced to the LAPD SWAT team! On a more peaceful note, romantic swan boats glide couples across the shimmering surface as a fountain in the middle of the lake shoots for the stars. A wide sidewalk incircles the lotus-lined lake for joggers and lovers going full circle. Here, Route 66 is Sunset Blvd, snaking in from Hollywood, adorned with eclectic shops and cafes, as the Oz-like skyline of downtown LA towers over the next hillside. ___ Kick #5 : SOUTH PASADENA After a fun, curvy cruise east on the world’s first freeway, the 110, take the Fair Oaks Blvd exit and head right (literally) to the soda fountain that time forgot; Fair Oaks Pharmacy where hand-scooped ice cream forms the foundation for skyscraper milk shakes with cherry rooftops. Then pop by Pee-wee’s Herman’s house at 1848 Oxley St. which you’ll recognize from the scene in Pee-wee’s Big Adventure where his bully nemesis, Francis tries to “acquire” his beloved bike. “I know you are, but what am I?” ___ Kick #6 : PASADENA The Rose of the West, this stop on our “kindly trip” blooms with many pleasures, including a fantastical rose garden at The Huntington . Honestly, there are so many great things to do and see in Pasadena that you may just want to move here! The Norton Simon Museum , the Original Whistle Stop miniature trains shop and Russell‘s for a 24/7 breakfast should do it for our Rt 66 drive-by visit. Mid-Century mavens who appreciate 1950’s signage design will want to add the Saga Motel for a nostalgic photo-op stop. ___ Kick #7 : MONROVIA Author, Miranda July writes in her book, All Fours about a memorable stay in this sleepy suburb, just off Rt 66–an unexpected detour on her road trip from LA to New York. So enchanted was she with this stopover that she hired a local decorator to reimagine her motel room in Marie Antionette level comfort, an eccentric investment of $20K+. Your stay can be more cost-effective by keeping it to strolling Old Town’s quaint shops and cafes along S. Myrtle Ave, and a pup-friendly stop in Library Park (the Monrovia Library also factors into Ms. July’s story). Then head up to see some Mayan Revival magnificence at the Aztec Hotel , a historical landmark designed in 1925 by architect Robert Stacy-Judd. Now let’s rejoin the Route, bound for new pounds at nearby Donut Man . ___ Kick #8 : CLAREMONT Home to the 7 Claremont Colleges and Pomona College, Claremont is a hamlet of higher education, in a bucolic storybook setting. Head to Village Grill diner and Vintage Odyssey in the adorable town center between Harvard and Yale avenues (clearly a college-themed town!) The Folk Music Center & Museum is a joy! There’s a cool old Santa Fe Railway station at First St & Harvard and, just down the tracks, (also on First) is the historic 1909 Claremont Packing House , converted from its days as a citrus packing facility into a bustling collection of shops, galleries, and cafés. ___ Kick #9 : RANCHO CUCAMUNGA After all this driving and exploring along Rt 66, we’re still only 37 miles out of LA! But we won’t be long here at the foothills of the San Gabriel Mountains because, frankly, there’s not a lot to see aside from a sea of home developments and box stores. BUT there’s the Sycamore Inn , serving prime rib since 1848, and the banana yellow Richfield Oil & Gas station , a landmark that may be the mascot for CA’s Route 66. ___ Kick #10 : SAN BERNARDINO Home of the first McDonald’s, and the present home of the ultimate McDonald’s Museum (“Please don’t eat the displays!”). Instead, dine at Mitla Cafe , for its authentic, homemade Mexican food and frosty margaritas. Established in 1937, it's one of California's oldest Mexican restaurants, hosted by some of the state’s nicest folks. Spend the night in a concrete teepee at the distinctive Wig Wam Motel , a fanciful Native American-inspired “village” of 15 teepees arranged in a semi-circle, like sleeping on a John Ford movie set. ___ Kick #11 : VICTORVILLE Our route takes us up and over the Cajón Pass to California’s high desert, elevation 3,000ft. A trading post in its pioneer days, Victorville has grown crazy big, busting out in all four compass directions. But its vintage attributes are still its best. Roy Rogers and his trusty horse, Trigger once resided on these ranges. Old West lore is captured perfectly in the signage at New Corral Motel . Emma Jean’ s roadside cafe has been serving up “Trucker’s Special” sandwiches and more since 1947 out on North D Street— a picture-perfect spot for a David Lynch mystery. And our road trip is fully realized at the California Route 66 Museum with fascinating displays and fun photo ops. Pets are welcome to get behind the wheel! ___ Kick #12 : ORO GRANDE & BAGDAD Route 66 now becomes the National Trails Highway leading straight to another quirky roadside lunch option: Crosseyed Cow Pizza in Oro Grande. Right next door is a fantastic rambling vintage store, Antique Station housed in an old wild-west storefront. But the big attraction in these parts is just a little further up the Trail: Elmer's Bottle Tree Ranch , a madcap installation of more than 200 glass-metal-and-found-object creations by the late Elmer Evan Long, a welder, junk collector and visionary. (Proving that “one man’s junk is another man’s masterpiece”). ___ Kick #13 : BARSTOW Route 66 is also known as The Mother Road, and here in Barstow you can absorb more mid-century lore at the Route 66 Mother Road Museum . (if it’s open!) Just pressing one’s nose to the museum’s storefront window renders a view back in time, with its cavalcade of vintage road signs and mid-century memorabilia. Around town you’ll see Barstow's Main Street Murals celebrating Rt 66, classic car culture and Native American history. Great mid-mod signage too! You’ll likely stay the night in Barstow (not that there’s any nightlife ). There are new hotels along I-15 near the Outlets at Barstow —given how tiring bargain shopping can be! In the morning, breakfast at Lola's Kitchen or Roy's Cafe before heading out for more kicks on Rt 66. BONUS TURNOFF: Bagdad Café The filming location of the cult classic 1987 film is a worthy (and quick) side-jaunt. The small “café” is (usually) open to the public for photos, but movie nostalgia is the only thing on the menu! Not food! From Barstow, take the National Trails Highway to Newberry Springs. ___ Kick #14 : AMBOY This is where the trip gets awesome, as the landscape stretches out majestically—and otherworldly. The Amboy Crater Natural National Landmark , with its sloping profile as black as outer space contrasts vividly against the brown monochromatic terrain, in clear view from the road. Route 66 aligns with a prehistoric trail established by Native Americans, part of an elaborate crisscrossing of foot trails that charted the pathway of today’s US Highway System. Also out here on this lunar landscape is Roy's Motel & Café , a working 1938 gas station, seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Souvenirs, snacks and photo ops are in abundance at this surreal and cinematic setting. ___ Kick #15 : MOJAVE NATIONAL PRESERVE This magical wonderland of desert geology, flora and fauna gifts the visitor an appreciation for the threatened beauty of the Mojave Desert through sight and touch. So many ways to experience this uniquely California wilderness: Hike, bike, drive & camp. (Pets too!) Stroll down into the 27,000 years young lava tube , where shafts of sunlight lead the way. Squeeze through the narrow passages of Rings Loop Trail or just take in the Joshua tree-dotted plain that crests at the horizon in a crown of mountain-size boulders. ___ Kick #16 : KELSO Unlike most of the sites in the Mojave National Preserve, Kelso’s charms are accessible via paved roads that won’t shake your wheels loose, (compared to the deeply rutted dirt roads throughout the park.) Kelso Dunes splay the desert floor like a giant comforter. Hike its folds and look for tracks of critters who share their bed with us. The gorgeous arched Kelso Depot visitors center , a historic 1924 train station, now serves as the main visitor center for Mojave National Preserve, featuring exhibits on the area's natural and railroad history, a bookstore, restrooms and a fantastic restored railway diner. (Currently under renovation, planned reopening late 2026) ___ Kick #17 : NEEDLES We’ve arrived at the eastern border of California, where it embraces the curves of the Colorado River and the start of Lake Havasu . Named after the pinnacle rocks in the near distance, Needles is the down-home gateway to the West, serving up the best-ever Chicken Fried Chicken with mashed potatoes at the Wagon Wheel Restaurant . Also, Needles has some great vintage shops on Front Street @ F Street, where you’ll see another towering pinnacle, the official Needles sign. ___ Now for your next journey… you can keep on going—head east on 66 all the way to Chicago, or turn around and go back for more, just in case you missed some California kicks! Hope you enjoyed the ride! Happy motoring! We are proud of our collaboration with Wanderlust Content Studio and Visit California in creating these images and information about CA Route 66. Thank you! ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

The ultimate painterly landscape. Its pastel colors dappled like brushstrokes across every field and hillside, in every storybook village and at each sumptuous meal. PROVENCE, FRANCE The ultimate painterly landscape. Its pastel colors dappled like brushstrokes across every field and hillside, in every storybook village and at each sumptuous meal. FIVE FAVES / PROVENCE Rosé in Roussillon A visit to Roussillon is a most colorful experience. As if inspired by a bowl of butter mints, the pastels that define the town soften its medieval past and welcome life in the moment. ___ Market Day in Lourmarin Sunlight inches down ancient walls in Lourmarin as chilled shadows hold their ground, for the moment. A climbing vine in starlet lipstick red finds its light as croissants and coffee alight our sidewalk table. An old couple score the first flowers at the farmers’ market while most vendors are still readying their wares. Shopkeepers flip their window signs to “ouvert”, as a sleepy shepherd signs off, having found a perfect chin rest ‘neath a cafe chair. ___ Morning Light in Lacoste Morning light threads through the ridge trees across the valley, eventually reaching the walls of the artful hilltop village of Lacoste. Artful in many ways. One, it’s the European home of SCAD (Savannah College of Art and Design). Two: Style icon Pierre Cardin took such a shine to the town, he bought up much of it, fashioning the ragged ruins into the “Saint Tropez of Culture” in Provence. But this morning the dawn owns it, turning cold stone walls into bricks of gold. The infamous hedonist Marquis de Sade once hung his chapeau at Chateau Lacoste, (when he wasn’t incarcerated for his carnal exploits). ___ Les Baux-de-Provence Grand white colonnades tower overhead in this underground acropolis of idled limestone quarries, now known as Carrières des Lumières. Immersive explorations of artists’ masterpieces are projected upon these galleries of stone hidden within the mountain slopes of northwest Provence. ___ City of a Thousand Fountains This curious moss-covered fountain from 1691 AD speaks to us, possibly in the voice of a quirky Star Wars character. Fontaine des Neuf-Canons, in the town of Aix en Provence is so named for its nine water spouts delightfully dribbling at a popular meet-up spot on the Cours Mirabeau walk street. But the grande dame of Aix fountains is surely Fontaine de la Rotonde, where countless cars, people and birds are drawn to its orbit. Aix’s many fountains originally performed a more utilitarian role, hosting sheep and other livestock as they were herded along in the heat of summer. ___ Gorgeous Gordes It may look like a sleepy village but this enchanted town in Provence is also known for its feisty and resilient qualities. “Gordians” are renowned for their rebellious spirit, sparking many a medieval battle and mustering dauntless support for Resistance fighters in World War II. Soothing its fighting spirit these days are adorable restaurants, cafes and romantic walkways. Coming or going, all roads lead to the signature view of Gordes from across a stoney ravine, where each hillside home appears to be a lookout from another century. Does a perfect setting make the food taste more amazing? In Provence it’s hard to distinguish between great flavors and fabulous surroundings. La Trinquette Gordes is a perfect example, (except here we are quite certain the food is just as impressive as the place). And the place is unforgettable. Seated atop centuries of French history in one of Provence’s most stunning villages. ___ Vibrant Rare Finds at the Avignon Flea Market Just outside the walls of the old city, a motley assemblage of sellers gather to barter away their eclectic wares at the Avignon Flea Market under the warm Provençal sun. ___ SPOTLIGHT: The Fresh Princes of Provence For those of us who dream of chucking reality and moving to Provence, here is a lovely living example: @le_farmhouse . This fabulous couple recently took on a new life in a classic two-level French farmhouse, where the original farmers lived upstairs and the livestock called the ground floor home. Thanks to the vision and talent of Dave & David, both floors are now reimagined in thoughtful, casual elegance, along with 22 formerly neglected acres that are now home to an exclusive Domaine du Chêne Vert olive oil and a lot of love. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

México City, aka ”Ciudad de México, or just “CDMX” is a living metropolis like no other. 20 million residents quilted across 573 square miles, in a Lego landscape framed by mountains and active volcanoes. MÉXICO CITY México City, aka ”Ciudad de México, or just “CDMX” is a living metropolis like no other. 20 million residents quilted across 573 square miles, in a Lego landscape framed by mountains and active volcanoes. While it appears impossibly vast from an airplane window, here on the ground, each neighborhood evokes a surprisingly serene quality. Individual enclaves budding with proud artistry, unique architecture and swoon worthy cuisine. Centro Histórico A constant swirl of activity, Centro is like the center of a galaxy, timeless and alluring and absolutely alive. At its heart, ancient ruins of the Aztec Templo Mayor feel almost buried by the centuries it’s endured amid the flurry, not to mention the futility of seeing its stones repurposed by the conquering Spanish to form the walls of Catholic cathedrals. Their bell towers casting sundial shadows across the vast plazas. Also standing tall in Centro CDMX is the Palacio de Bellas Artes, the Metropolitan Cathedral, the Palacio Nacional, the Church of Santo Domingo, Museo Nacional de Arte and the Museo Frida Kahlo. ___ Roma Norte Ironic that this modern-aesthetic neighborhood lined with design-centric cafes, fusion restaurants, vintage shops and spiky bohemes dates back to the 20th century, when affluent families first relocated here, beyond the hubbub of Centro Histórico. Roma Norte and Condesa are close sisters, sophisticated yet laid back and welcoming. ___ Plaza Río de Janeiro The timelessly-toned gluteus maximus of Michelangelo‘s David adds muscularity to the serenity of Roma Norte. While David looks to have been standing here for ages, this impressive bronze replica of the original was created in 2020. Weighing in at trim 284.16 lbs. and standing an erect 16.96 ft., this Alpha-generation David is one of two replicas gracing CDMX. His impeccable white marble twin greets visitors in the grand lobby of the Museo Soumaya in Polanco. ___ Juárez The Colonia Juárez neighborhood, shaped like an airplane wing, has always been home to a lofty group of artists and intellectuals, despite eras of financial decay and earthquake damage. Today, it thrives with creative shops and restaurants nestled in early 19th century townhouses. It hosts a lively Korean enclave (with the K-town cuisine options to go with it) and a proud gay community in its “Pink Zone”. In our opinion, here you’ll discover the best bespoke clothes, curios, salons, and cafes. ___ Condesa “The Countess”, indeed. Elegant, charming, colorful, festive, ready to receive her bohemian subjects and visiting guests in leafy pageantry. Art deco buildings crown the walkable tree-lined streets like a tiara, adding streamline sensibility to this historic neighborhood in the Cuauhtémoc borough. By day, genteel, and welcoming, but by night our countess steps out into the lively, international nightlife of the Hipodromo ‘hood. All together, a mix of stunning restaurants, bookshops, bars and boutique inns define Condesa, along with its youthful energy and sophisticated design. The only reason to explore beyond its many charms is the related simple wonders of neighboring Roma-Norte (and Juárez!) ___ Museums México City’s trove of art and anthropological collections is reason enough to visit the city. Presented in glorious venues, each museum in CDMX colors us spellbound and inspired. ___ National Museum of Anthropology In its central courtyard, an impossibly massive rectangular mushroom umbrella seems to hover overhead, balanced atop a single sequoia-sized pillar. The usually-penetrating Mexican sun is effortlessly eclipsed by this towering centerpiece designed in 1964 by visionary architects, Pedro Ramírez Vázquez, Jorge Campuzano, and Rafael Mijares Alcérreca. As if some sort of alien form, it drizzles water onto the pond below in a mesmerizing rain dance, like a set piece from David Lynch’s Dune. Inside the galleries that flank this phenomenon are artefacts from México's indigenous Maya, Aztec and Olmec cultures. Mind-bending pieces that intricately illustrate the complexities and beauties of lifetimes past. ___ Chapultepec Castle It said that one of these young Niños Héroes cadets, memorialized in bronze, wrapped himself in the Mexican flag and leaped to his death from this very balustrade rather than surrender to the American army that would soon take the castle in 1847. It survived the Mexican-American war and the regrettable rule of Austrian archduke Emperor Maximilian, who, in 1864 imported a very non-indigenous interior design style to this strategic hillside fortress/royal home, not to mention a most objectionable–and doomed monarchy rule. (His was executed in 1867). Originally a sacred place to the Aztecs, Chapultepec means “Hill of the Grasshoppers” in their language. Today it is home to the National Museum of History with an array of fascinating artifacts and exhibits. ___ Soumaya Museum When one is one of the richest people on the planet, one may conceive and construct an out-of-this-world gallery for one’s own private collection, assembled in one place to be appreciated by all. Hence the genesis of this undulating modern jewelbox that houses spectacular works starting with an exact marble replica of Michelangelo‘s David in the lobby, then spiraling its way up to a cavalcade of masterworks. The honeycomb stainless steel exterior is jaw dropping, and the collection inside is breathtaking. ___ Museo de Arte Moderno 1964 must have been such a celebrated year culturally for CDMX, with this dual-cylinder museum debuting along with its sister, the masterpiece Anthropology Museum. “MAM” is both charming and impressive, welcoming and awe-inspiring. Located in Chapultepec Park, it features an enviable permanent collection with works by Mexican masters, Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera and beyond exhibited in the two circular buildings, joined by a sculpture garden. Inspired temporary exhibitions also dazzle, so much so that repeated visits are recommended for return travelers. ___ Frida Kahlo Museum Frida slept here. She painted masterpieces from her bed. Frail and permanently impaired from an accident in 1925 as she was riding on a bus, she managed as if by a miracle. A steel rod had pierced her 18 year old body like a cruel sword yet somehow, she and her talent survived, living on with the lightness of a butterfly. An angel on this earth–with a paint brush. Her Devine space, known as the Blue House in Coyoacán was her home, her studio and her infirmary. Patti Smith wrote this poem after visiting Frida’s thoughtfully preserved bedside. I can not walk I can not see Further than what Is in front of me I lay on my back yet I do not cry Transported in space by the butterflies. Above my bed Another sky With the wings you sent Within my sight All pain dissolves In another light Transported thru Time By the butterfly ___ Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo Studio Nestled in the lovely San Angel district, a historical area treasured for its colonial architecture and cobbled streets, “Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo” is the former co-habited home/studio of iconic artists Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. The studio still seems very much abuzz with artwork displayed on easels and the intricate tools, once in the hands of these two artists arranged on tables as if masterworks are underway as we speak. Rivera’s extensive collection of indigenous artwork is on display, just as he left it. The building itself is a work of art, designed in 1929 by Rivera’s friend, architect Juan O’Gorman, in a style that combines traditional Mexican architecture with functionalist design. Enjoy this virtual tour of the property, made possible by the Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes. ___ Standout Dining & Imbibing An ample portion of the delirious pleasure of México City is in its dining and drinking. Just as this metropolis is home to the purest form of the Spanish language, the true essence of Mexican cuisine is borne here. CDMX is the test kitchen where traditional cuisine meets modern experimentation. And that goes for cocktail crafting as well! To top it all off, restaurant design here is theater, be it bohemian or elegant, the inventive staging enlivens each performance. There are SO many greats, but here’s our top three… ___ San Ángel Inn This grand but soft spoken Colonial-era hacienda stretches out in siesta style sensuality, where shaded verandas and verdant courtyard gardens meet like lovers. In this Eden, margaritas are served “up”, poured with pride by the waiter into salt-rimmed martini glasses. One’s replenishment, equal to the first pour, is kept chilled in a silver vile resting on a cloud of crushed ice in one’s own personal-size silver ice bucket. Any pain or suffering that one may have carried in upon arrival, no longer registers as of the 2nd round. I believe this to be the finest margarita in the world. Order the table side Caesar which takes two waiters to whisk and toss to perfection. If more ballast is desired, the menu overfloweth with traditional delights, not to mention memorable desserts. Then there’s the bakery and gift shop! ___ Azul Histórico Perhaps the most beautiful restaurant anywhere, it rests in the open air courtyard of a 17th-century palace. Your table awaits beneath gestural trees and a soaring vertical wall garden. Chef Ricardo Muñoz Zurita has re-conjured certain moles and salsas that hail from another time in México City, previously unfamiliar even to serious foodies. Zurita’s Mole Negro and his Oaxacan tortilla soup are highlights in our book. Savor this quiet respite, in such contrast with the bustle of Centro just outside these 17th-century walls. ___ Panadaría Rosetta The best reason to wake up in México City is Rosetta, no matter how bad the jet lag. I could sleepwalk to her subterranean panadaría in Juarez, (and I think I may have! Twice!!) Pajamas are permitted as one slips onto a stool, pondering the fantastic pastry options as they come into focus. You see, these are the best pastries of all time. The real reason to travel to México City? Rosetta pastries. And her delicious cortado will assure a bright-eyed start to your day in CDMX. ___ Local Arts & Crafts Every sidewalk window, in every part of town seems to be a showcase for local artisan handiwork. This can lead to challenging space concerns with regards to one’s carry-on luggage. Condesa, Roma Norte and Juárez are home to the best curios and antiques. One in particular is Origen México Artesanías. The operators of this tiny but cock-full shop in Juárez should be commended. Their lovely wares are the reward for their work to improve the living conditions of Mexican craftsmen by helping facilitate sales, education and management skills. They work with each artisan to produce products that incorporate innovation, yet preserve strong cultural origins. ___ Holiday CDMX Winter slips in over this 7,000ft metropolis like a feathery duvet, silently warming the sprawl of city life with renewed energy. Mexican tin Christmas trees glimmer and glow from apartment windows while giant multi-pointed stars illuminate the streets as they float over town plazas. Churches seem dipped in gold and outdoor nativity scenes are awash in waves of colored paper flowers. Lovers walk in the long parkways wearing matching santa caps, embracing the charm of the season and the annual promise of peace on earth. ___ Half-Day Trips It’s hard to tell where and when one will find the outskirts of town in this endless population of 9 million+. But, trust us, it’s worth the ride. The great pyramids, the goofy gondolas, and an extraterrestrial orbit of concrete, all just a half-day there and back. So buckle up! ___ Xochimilco Gondola Boats Known as the "Venice of México," Xochimilco is the home port for gondola-like boats, or “trajineras” that navigate its ancient canal system. (Reality check: This is not a bit like Venice! ;-) Hire a trajinera for a drift through the canals, past floating gardens (chinampas) blooming to the beat of mariachi bands and the call of floating vendors selling food and drinks. Trajineras rent by the hour, with weekend tours geared more to partying and weekday cruising more about nature. Having experienced the vacant boredom of the weekday option, the weekend looks to be a lot more fun. Bring a boatful of friends and drinks and this might actually be great. ___ Universidad Nacional Autónoma In a Sistine Chapel-like moment in modern art history, the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) became the shrine of (literally) groundbreaking outdoor art, integrated with astonishing architecture. The most famous is the multi-story mosaic murals of Juan O'Gorman, produced in Michelangelo-like incredulity between 1948 and 1955. Wrapping all four sides of the stark library structure, the murals depict key moments of Mexican history and culture. Just to the south, in an ecological reserve, lay an environmental artwork straight out of Kubrick’s 2001 A Space Odyssey. Six sculptors—Federico Silva, Hersúa, Helen Escobedo, Sebastián, Mathias Goeritz, and Manuel Felguérez together imagined and constructed this 120-meter diameter ring of volcanic stone featuring 64 triangular forms arranged in a perfect circle around a field of lava rock. Think Stonehenge–on steroids. Fanning out from the circle is the Sculpture Walk, a sculptors’ nature trail featuring individual (and climbable) large-format sculptures by each of the six “Circle”artists. ___ SPOTLIGHT: Teotihuacan Pyramid The Manhattan of Mesoamerica, this ancient city predates the Aztec Empire by several centuries, –roughly the first half of the first millennium (1 CE to 500 CE). Teotihuacan was the largest city in the Americas, with a population of at least 25,000, but some estimates have it at 125,000 residents, maybe more. Located 25 miles northeast of México City, it is the most architecturally significant Mesoamerican pyramid in the Americas. Or, more accurately, two pyramids. Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon. 100% worth the drive from CDMX, so long as you wear comfy climbing shoes and good sun protection. Once you come down from the Sun and Moon, a surprisingly good restaurant, La Gruta awaits you underground, in a cave! Light a candle to make a wish after your lunch and head back into town for dinner. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Like a vertical jewel box, Tokyo dazzles at every angle. Blinking red marker lights define the height and width of all tall buildings for aircraft, giving the skyline a strange visual continuity despite the variety of architectural styles and sizes. TOKYO, JAPAN Like a vertical jewel box, Tokyo dazzles at every angle. Blinking red marker lights define the height and width of all tall buildings for aircraft, giving the skyline a strange visual continuity despite the variety of architectural styles and sizes. FIVE FAVES / TOKYO Shibuya Shuffle The Tokyo cityscape at street level can be impossibly frenetic, even comical in time-lapse, but in contrast to the insane Shibuya crossing, many neighborhoods such as Shinjuku take on a more personal scale and easy-going feel. ___ Tsutaya Books, Ginza Crowning the 6th floor of the Ginza Six shopping center is the remarkable Tsutaya Bookshop . Its skylit atrium illuminates the mind and heart the way a good book does. Art books are presented in an exhilarating space, blending beauty with inspiration. –and a favorite Tokyo photo op. ___ Asakusa Culture and Information Center A tourist bureau so beautifully designed that it itself is a sightseeing attraction! This towering latticework of timber and glass, designed by renowned architect Kengo Kuma is both modest and bold in its design, looking like a stack of wooden buildings from the neighborhood casually piled atop one another. An eclectic monolith that playfully looms over the stunning Sensoji Temple and the charming Asakusa district. ___ d-47 Museum A Japan-themed space exhibiting the designs, products and creative individuality of the island nation's 47 prefectures. Presented on 47 tables, each display focuses on the unique regional artistry and local culture. The namesake d-Department stores and online shops are equally inspiring. ___ Photo by Daici Ano Windows on Ginza Ginza, which means “Place of Silver” has been the main commercial district of Tokyo since the early 17th century, and that still stands today, –literally. The height of wealth here is matched only by its architecture. Timeless luxury brands such as Mikimoto, Louis Vuitton, Dior and Hermes, among others flaunt new gleaming facades, each as gorgeous and distinctive as the wares inside. Mikimoto Ginza 2-chome building Designed by Toyo Ito & Associates, the undersea window shapes appear random but each is precisely sized and positioned to lend structural support, allowing the interior to be column-free. Louis Vuitton / Ginza Wrapped in an undulating glaze of pearlescent glass that references the nearby Tokyo bay, this graceful design is the work of Jun Aoki & Associates with flowing interiors created by Peter Marino. Private Architectural Tour of Ginza ___ Muji Ah, the little heart flutter that happens when one enters a Muji store. Here in Tokyo, this flagship in Ginza really gets the blood pumping with an expanded array of retail, plus an art exhibit space, an irresistible bakery and a Muji hotel to top it all off. Refined design at affordable prices. Shop, sleep, eat and enjoy. ___ The Okura Hotel A tale almost as lovely as the design itself, the Okura Hotel, a masterpiece of Japanese modernism is a triumph of father and son architects, working decades apart. The hotel’s original balance of light and form was the vision of Yoshiro Taniguchi in 1960. After years of neglect, a thoughtful and comprehensive restoration was overseen by his son, Yoshio Taniguchi. Now, in all its modern and airy grace, it appears as though time has stood still since opening day in May, 1962. ___ Kabukiza Theater In 1629, a law was passed in Japan that, to this day has kept women actors from the Kabuki stage, yet there are many female roles in the centuries-old tales portrayed. Instead, male actors train for years to become “onnagata”, crafting an astonishing performance as women. Not so much an imitation of women, but an embodiment of a special artistic convention unique to Kabuki. Another true attribute of Kabuki is “mie”, where a strong pose is struck in “stop-motion” poses, accompanied by loud wooden clapper beats. Not meant to be realistic, this over-the-top tableau freezes a powerful picture of the emotion or conflict. Amazing to watch and to think that it’s been performed this way for centuries, yet continuously adapting to modern times. Including the Kabukiza Theater itself, reimagined by architect Kengo Kuma in 2013. A design that honors tradition, while providing a stage for the future of this art form. ___ Photo by David Davis Photo by Udatsu Sushi Udatsu Sushi “A space that is not just about sushi, but also a place representative of the city of Tokyo; where people from diverse backgrounds can interact and deepen their mutual understanding of each other.” —Chef/owner, Hisashi Udatsu The son of a butcher and next-door neighbor to his hometown’s only sushi restaurant, Hisashi’s young eyes witnessed daily the artistry of Japanese culinary traditions. By age 14, he informed his friends that he will be a chef. Today, Hisashi sets a humble table where storied meals are masterfully staged on dreamy Jenny Sharaf ceramics. ___ Onsen Ryokan Yuen Shinjuku A zen stillness is palpable in this simple but remarkable high rise hotel in Shinjuku. Materials that one would expect in a craftsman home or a temple appear natural in this modern space. An interior path of black slate leads to the spa elevator that escorts guests to the rooftop onsen. A breathtaking spa experience, with its open-air views of Tokyo twinkling under the stars. One’s focus softens in the rising steam of the onsen pool sheltered from any breezes 18 floors above the city. Later, float down a few floors, where one’s bed awaits in the form and feel of a cloud. ___ Raising the Bar (and lowering it) Suntory Lounge Eagle, (top image) a Tokyo classic since the early ‘90’s, this sunken highball bar features a grand staircase descending from street level, fit for a swooning diva’s entrance. Escape the strobing LED night and slip into a chandelier-lit sanctuary where the shaking of chilled Japanese vodka sets the rhythm for conversation and people watching. Main Bar Brilliant (bottom two images) is a swank hideaway in plain sight at the Keio Plaza Hotel in the middle of Shinjuku. If the 1970’s Johnny Carson set had included a bar, it might have looked like this. A modernist grid of brick and wood lines the long, low-slung bar, while round swivel chairs populate the space like orange planets. Tuxedoed bartenders construct perfect cocktails with precision, their surreal presence vaguely familiar, perhaps from a Stanley Kubrick film. ___ Photo by David Davis Shinjuku Golden Gai A tangle of six narrow alleys shingled in a cacophony of neon signs leads to tiny shanty bars with seating for a lucky few. Off each alley are even narrower passageways, barely wide enough for a single person to win their way through. But so worth it! 200+ little bars, clubs and eateries, all squeezed into a maze of unexpected delights. Be respectful with your camera. Taking pictures without permission is frowned upon and could lose you that coveted bar stool. ___ INSPIRATION : A touch of Japan for your world at home. Sparkling Yuzu Gimlet When in Japan, on the winter solstice, consider bathing in yuzu, as is the custom dating back to the early 18th century. But at home, there’s the Yuzu Gimlet, sparking like moonlight in your glass. Originally from central China and Tibet, Yuzu was introduced to Japan and Korea during the Tang dynasty, and its citrusy pleasures quickly squeezed their way worldwide, adding a splash of East-Asia here at home. Recipe: Food & Wine ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

After a rough-hewn ride in from the Manzanillo (ZLO) airport, the sweeping ocean vistas and stunning architectural forms of the Four Seasons Tamarindo resort suddenly come into view, making an unforgettable impression on the senses. Like finding a black diamond in the sand, this modernist stone, glass and concrete temple dazzles on every level. TAMARINDO, MEXICO After a rough-hewn ride in from the Manzanillo (ZLO) airport, the sweeping ocean vistas and stunning architectural forms of the Four Seasons Tamarindo resort suddenly come into view, making an unforgettable impression on the senses. Like finding a black diamond in the sand, this modernist stone, glass and concrete temple dazzles on every level. Costalegre - Coast of Joy Costalegre is a magical, hidden region of Jalisco, Mexico. A perfect stretch of unspoiled coastline, south of Puerto Vallarta, revered for its pristine beauty, rugged landscapes and peaceful bliss. Five of Mexico’s most respected design firms, together envisioned a resort that blends seamlessly into the peninsula’s tranquility. Nestled within a private nature reserve, Tamarindo is a sanctuary that honors Mexico’s rich cultural traditions, and provides guests with immersive experiences that delight and enlighten. Or, just immerse in the pool and sip on some of the creative achievements from the bar! ___ An Unforgettable Entrance The lobby of the Four Seasons Tamarindo seems to defy gravity as the massive concrete structure hovers like a hummingbird, cantilevered over the landscape—while also blending into it. Modernist shapes extend like wings while infinity pools flutter in concert with the sea. Each time entering this open air gateway, one is reminded of that breathtaking moment upon first arrival. An epiphany repeated throughout one’s stay. ___ Swim-up Fantasy Azure pools seem to meld with the matching sea. Like one’s own ocean, lapping right up to the edge of your lounger. Terraces trace the hillside as it ambles down to the beach, each level defined with pools so inviting that you may never make it to the sand. The sunlight sparkles on the water like sequins as one hears the sea whisper “may I get you a margarita?”. Or was that the waiter? Hard to tell when swimming in a dream. ___ Private Paradise From the rather excellent viewpoint of our suite’s poolside hammock, I watch as a butterfly flits about at alternating altitudes, seemingly flummoxed by the abundant choices. Much like the decision-making we’re tasked with today: choosing between a spa treatment, a beach walk, the tortilla-making class, or maybe just staying in the room, wearing cushy robes and reading books atop the fluffy cloud known as the Four Seasons Signature bed . Best to rinse off such indecision under the sparkling spritz of our outdoor shower. A single ray of sunlight sneaks a peek into the privacy of our wet-room balcony, afloat over the sea bluffs like that breezy butterfly. ___ Architecture Local textures, contours and colors serve as design guidelines for the architecture of Tamarindo. Details found in the natural environment here are thoughtfully interpreted in the structures’ forms and surfaces. Native stone dramatically frame passageways, some inspired by sea caves. Blue tiles line every pool, dovetailing seamlessly with the color of sea, as if as one body of water. Architects Victor Legorreta , Mauricio Rocha and Mario Schjetnan of LegoRocha designed the resort and the neighboring private residences. The exquisite minimalist interiors are the work of Uribe Krayer and Estudio Esterlina . The inspired natural landscapes were crafted by the gifted Mario Schjetnan . ___ Image courtesy of Four Seasons Resort Tamarindo Savoring Tamarindo One soon becomes familiar with the resident tres amigos of fine food options, Coyul , Sal & Nacho . Coyul feels like home with its sweet staff and comfy seating welcoming you with open (air) arms. A setting so impressive one must remember to eat–which is easy given the unbelievable Rosetta pastries by morning and scrumptious hand-made Mexican favorites at lunch and dinner. Then there’s Sal, a shell’s throw above the surf, with unparalleled fresh fish and seafood, the source of which is rolling by right in front of you. Nacho Taqueria is our favorite secret spot, slyly tucked away on a stone terrace, pumping out great music, creative cocktails and amazing tacos. Or, simply remain in your swim suits and dine in-room! ___ Divine History Class convenes today at happy hour. Our professor/sommelier enthralls us with an exploration of Mexico's past as charted by the proliferation of winemaking through the centuries. With each informative sip, we learn about Mexico’s oldest wine-producing regions and traditions of the craft. Carefully selected wines from Guanajuato, San Luis Potosí and Coahuila lead us along the Real de Tierra Adentro, complete with a leather treasure map unrolled beneath rows of shimmering stemware backlit by the retiring sun. Our thirst for knowledge quenched just in time for dinner—with an enhanced appreciation of the wine list. ___ Imbibing Perfection There’s something about the twist of a lemon rind, with its hypnotic spritz of citrus scenting the chilled edge of one’s glass. The misty crescendo of cocktail crafting. During this magic show, the ocean appears to fill our glasses as it undulates in the distance, framing the talented conjurer behind the bar. The horizon is bright, like a light box waiting for images of soon-cherished moments to be added. Our tapered stemware mimics the pool umbrellas, filtering the lazy light at dusk here at the Coyul bar. ___ Breakfast on the Bluff To shed some recently-acquired calories, we schedule an early morning hike through the Tamarindo private nature preserve. We are greeted by our guide as the dawn makes quick work of the “darkest hour”, sending a zillion stars packing. Our path winds through the protected jungle, as unique tree and bird species are ID’d along the way. Soon the view opens to the El Tamarindo Golf Course where the morning sky arches overhead. A deep arroyo reveals the course’s majestic seaside Par 3, 9th hole. We, however are not here to swack egg-size balls. Our trophy is a spectacular post-hike Four Seasons “breakfast-anywhere” private picnic, thoughtfully prepared atop a serene sea bluff. We reflect on the morning’s invigorating nature excursion as we resume our exercise in indulgence with fresh croissants, fruit, charcuterie and coffee. ___ La Playa For Ya The beach at Tamarindo is a quick golf cart ride from room-to-lounger. If they know you’re coming they’ll have your Aperol Spritz waiting for you. Lunch too, served at your shaded stakeout in beachy bento boxes. The bay laps in like a lake with its gentle waves and wide crescent shore that seems to reach all the way up to LA. The water is warm and welcoming, as is the sand, with an array of spiral and scalloped shells enjoying their long-awaited shore leave. Possible souvenirs of a perfect day in the Jalisco surf and sun. ___ Nature of Tamarindo Hawks and gulls hang on the breeze overhead, as migrating whales are sighted in the distance spouting salt spray into the air. Down on the beach, tiny crabs dash sideways between the whitewater and their personal safety portals. The impressive 3,000 acre nature preserve that surrounds the resort like a botanical moat is being “rewilded” by a dedicated team of on-site biologists and conservationists to restore the jungle’s natural rhythms and to protect its wildlife. White-throated Magpie Jays with incredible long blue feathered tails and singing Collared-Forest Falcons cohabit in the branches of a Tescalame tree which, curiously, grows horizontally. ___ Image courtesy of Four Seasons Resort Tamarindo Ahhh, The Spa The Four Seasons Tamarindo Spa is a masterpiece of architectural design that exudes relaxation and contemplation. Minimalist open-air courtyards bring to mind the Zen gardens of Kyoto, while the sound of water slipping over etched stone transports the soul to a gentle creek in the Redwoods. The spa personnel are cheerful and gentle, inviting guests to feel at home in this simple elegance, where architectural prowess inspires personal renewal. ___ The Shop Such a delight to enter a beautifully designed retail space with soaring ceilings and light-inviting windows showcasing a collection of thoughtfully-curated wares. Adjoining the open-air Tamarindo lobby, the store becomes a favorite stop on one’s daily commute to paradise. Every piece on display, be it jewelry, ceramics or garment is hand-made in Mexico. More than a “gift shop”, it serves as a comprehensive design exhibition of Mexican creative talent. One craftsperson, we’re told, is a young girl who grew up blind but taught herself the art of ceramics. Her whimsical animal-themed bowls featured throughout the store bring light and levity to the world. ___ SPOTLIGHT: Tortilla Talent Scouting In Mexico, behind every great meal is a great tortilla. A corn tortilla. It may look simple, perfectly round and plain, but such minimalism is indeed art. And like any artform, it requires passion, precision (and tricep strength). With tortillas, it all starts with a kernel of knowledge about softening the gravel-like key ingredient to grind it into a paste. Just like most of us, a good long soak in a warm bath takes the fight out of the corn. Then on to the massage table known as the “metate”, an ancient stone + rolling pin device still favored today for pulverizing the toughest corn into a workable substance. That is, if one has the rippling musculature for the job. (A half a glass of Rosé helps fuel our needed gusto boost). Then it’s roll-baby, roll! One may settle into a meditative corn-crushing groove until gently cajoled back to reality by Tamarindo’s resident tortilla master who is tasked with teaching us the subtleties of this revered kitchen tradition. Next it’s press-time. We roll our corn mush into palm-sized balls and place them on a wood press that clamps down upon the subject like printing Gutenberg bibles. Release the pressure and voila, a perfectly round raw tortilla is formed! Now try getting said round, thin, flat and sticky tortilla off the press and on to the wood-fired “comal” that looks like a fiery kettle drum, flames shooting out from underneath its floured surface. But after a few tries we manage to pull it off, literally. We drop our objects d’art on the searing surface and watch as they bubble and lightly brown. We quickly find out though that flipping the tortilla without burning one’s fingertips is also an art. One that the rest of our rosé can’t help. We let the master flip them. Now it’s time to add variety. We crank out more tortillas, one batch topped with cheese, another with mushrooms, and finally, my personal favorite, the toile-like cilantro festooned tortilla, with each green leaf baked-in like inlay. As class is dismissed, our graduation is celebrated with a toast and a tasting of our corn creations. This new-found tortilla-enlightening now tops our list of the (many) pleasures of Tamarindo. Corn Heritage Cooking Class ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Islet in the Sun. Curled up on the shore like a curvaceous starlet, this arc of red and white sand is a sumptuous and cinematic dream come true. SVETI STEFAN, MONTENEGRO Islet in the Sun. Curled up on the shore like a curvaceous starlet, this arc of red and white sand is a sumptuous and cinematic dream come true. 15th Century Serenity The sand along this curve of the Montenegro coastline is a crunchy confetti in red, black and grey, ground to perfection through the ages by the Adriatic Sea. Sheltered in the calm beneath Sveti Stefan islet, the multicolored beach forms an irresistible bed for sunbathers. In the center of this idyll, a stone viaduct reaches out from the shore, providing passage to the tiny island that was once a fishing village, reincarnated today as an impeccable AMAN Hotel . ___ Photo by Aman Group Back DESTINATIONS Next

Roman splendor in a modern port city greets seafarers arriving with stories and suntans from the nearby Dalmatian Islands. SPLIT, PORTUGAL Roman splendor in a modern port city greets seafarers arriving with stories and suntans from the nearby Dalmatian Islands. Palace Coup In this bustling port city, modern automobiles and streamlined ships meet Roman antiquity. “Soldiers” in red and gold regalia enliven the piazzas along the waterfront where the skyline is punctuated with ancient columns like in Rome. The city was originally an ancient palace built for the Roman emperor Diocletian at the turn of the fourth century AD. Half for him and half for an army garrison. The “palace” forms about half the old town of Split. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next