After a rough-hewn ride in from the Manzanillo (ZLO) airport, the sweeping ocean vistas and stunning architectural forms of the Four Seasons Tamarindo resort suddenly come into view, making an unforgettable impression on the senses. Like finding a black diamond in the sand, this modernist stone, glass and concrete temple dazzles on every level. TAMARINDO, MEXICO After a rough-hewn ride in from the Manzanillo (ZLO) airport, the sweeping ocean vistas and stunning architectural forms of the Four Seasons Tamarindo resort suddenly come into view, making an unforgettable impression on the senses. Like finding a black diamond in the sand, this modernist stone, glass and concrete temple dazzles on every level. Costalegre - Coast of Joy Costalegre is a magical, hidden region of Jalisco, Mexico. A perfect stretch of unspoiled coastline, south of Puerto Vallarta, revered for its pristine beauty, rugged landscapes and peaceful bliss. Five of Mexico’s most respected design firms, together envisioned a resort that blends seamlessly into the peninsula’s tranquility. Nestled within a private nature reserve, Tamarindo is a sanctuary that honors Mexico’s rich cultural traditions, and provides guests with immersive experiences that delight and enlighten. Or, just immerse in the pool and sip on some of the creative achievements from the bar! ___ An Unforgettable Entrance The lobby of the Four Seasons Tamarindo seems to defy gravity as the massive concrete structure hovers like a hummingbird, cantilevered over the landscape—while also blending into it. Modernist shapes extend like wings while infinity pools flutter in concert with the sea. Each time entering this open air gateway, one is reminded of that breathtaking moment upon first arrival. An epiphany repeated throughout one’s stay. ___ Swim-up Fantasy Azure pools seem to meld with the matching sea. Like one’s own ocean, lapping right up to the edge of your lounger. Terraces trace the hillside as it ambles down to the beach, each level defined with pools so inviting that you may never make it to the sand. The sunlight sparkles on the water like sequins as one hears the sea whisper “may I get you a margarita?”. Or was that the waiter? Hard to tell when swimming in a dream. ___ Private Paradise From the rather excellent viewpoint of our suite’s poolside hammock, I watch as a butterfly flits about at alternating altitudes, seemingly flummoxed by the abundant choices. Much like the decision-making we’re tasked with today: choosing between a spa treatment, a beach walk, the tortilla-making class, or maybe just staying in the room, wearing cushy robes and reading books atop the fluffy cloud known as the Four Seasons Signature bed . Best to rinse off such indecision under the sparkling spritz of our outdoor shower. A single ray of sunlight sneaks a peek into the privacy of our wet-room balcony, afloat over the sea bluffs like that breezy butterfly. ___ Architecture Local textures, contours and colors serve as design guidelines for the architecture of Tamarindo. Details found in the natural environment here are thoughtfully interpreted in the structures’ forms and surfaces. Native stone dramatically frame passageways, some inspired by sea caves. Blue tiles line every pool, dovetailing seamlessly with the color of sea, as if as one body of water. Architects Victor Legorreta , Mauricio Rocha and Mario Schjetnan of LegoRocha designed the resort and the neighboring private residences. The exquisite minimalist interiors are the work of Uribe Krayer and Estudio Esterlina . The inspired natural landscapes were crafted by the gifted Mario Schjetnan . ___ Image courtesy of Four Seasons Resort Tamarindo Savoring Tamarindo One soon becomes familiar with the resident tres amigos of fine food options, Coyul , Sal & Nacho . Coyul feels like home with its sweet staff and comfy seating welcoming you with open (air) arms. A setting so impressive one must remember to eat–which is easy given the unbelievable Rosetta pastries by morning and scrumptious hand-made Mexican favorites at lunch and dinner. Then there’s Sal, a shell’s throw above the surf, with unparalleled fresh fish and seafood, the source of which is rolling by right in front of you. Nacho Taqueria is our favorite secret spot, slyly tucked away on a stone terrace, pumping out great music, creative cocktails and amazing tacos. Or, simply remain in your swim suits and dine in-room! ___ Divine History Class convenes today at happy hour. Our professor/sommelier enthralls us with an exploration of Mexico's past as charted by the proliferation of winemaking through the centuries. With each informative sip, we learn about Mexico’s oldest wine-producing regions and traditions of the craft. Carefully selected wines from Guanajuato, San Luis Potosí and Coahuila lead us along the Real de Tierra Adentro, complete with a leather treasure map unrolled beneath rows of shimmering stemware backlit by the retiring sun. Our thirst for knowledge quenched just in time for dinner—with an enhanced appreciation of the wine list. ___ Imbibing Perfection There’s something about the twist of a lemon rind, with its hypnotic spritz of citrus scenting the chilled edge of one’s glass. The misty crescendo of cocktail crafting. During this magic show, the ocean appears to fill our glasses as it undulates in the distance, framing the talented conjurer behind the bar. The horizon is bright, like a light box waiting for images of soon-cherished moments to be added. Our tapered stemware mimics the pool umbrellas, filtering the lazy light at dusk here at the Coyul bar. ___ Breakfast on the Bluff To shed some recently-acquired calories, we schedule an early morning hike through the Tamarindo private nature preserve. We are greeted by our guide as the dawn makes quick work of the “darkest hour”, sending a zillion stars packing. Our path winds through the protected jungle, as unique tree and bird species are ID’d along the way. Soon the view opens to the El Tamarindo Golf Course where the morning sky arches overhead. A deep arroyo reveals the course’s majestic seaside Par 3, 9th hole. We, however are not here to swack egg-size balls. Our trophy is a spectacular post-hike Four Seasons “breakfast-anywhere” private picnic, thoughtfully prepared atop a serene sea bluff. We reflect on the morning’s invigorating nature excursion as we resume our exercise in indulgence with fresh croissants, fruit, charcuterie and coffee. ___ La Playa For Ya The beach at Tamarindo is a quick golf cart ride from room-to-lounger. If they know you’re coming they’ll have your Aperol Spritz waiting for you. Lunch too, served at your shaded stakeout in beachy bento boxes. The bay laps in like a lake with its gentle waves and wide crescent shore that seems to reach all the way up to LA. The water is warm and welcoming, as is the sand, with an array of spiral and scalloped shells enjoying their long-awaited shore leave. Possible souvenirs of a perfect day in the Jalisco surf and sun. ___ Nature of Tamarindo Hawks and gulls hang on the breeze overhead, as migrating whales are sighted in the distance spouting salt spray into the air. Down on the beach, tiny crabs dash sideways between the whitewater and their personal safety portals. The impressive 3,000 acre nature preserve that surrounds the resort like a botanical moat is being “rewilded” by a dedicated team of on-site biologists and conservationists to restore the jungle’s natural rhythms and to protect its wildlife. White-throated Magpie Jays with incredible long blue feathered tails and singing Collared-Forest Falcons cohabit in the branches of a Tescalame tree which, curiously, grows horizontally. ___ Image courtesy of Four Seasons Resort Tamarindo Ahhh, The Spa The Four Seasons Tamarindo Spa is a masterpiece of architectural design that exudes relaxation and contemplation. Minimalist open-air courtyards bring to mind the Zen gardens of Kyoto, while the sound of water slipping over etched stone transports the soul to a gentle creek in the Redwoods. The spa personnel are cheerful and gentle, inviting guests to feel at home in this simple elegance, where architectural prowess inspires personal renewal. ___ The Shop Such a delight to enter a beautifully designed retail space with soaring ceilings and light-inviting windows showcasing a collection of thoughtfully-curated wares. Adjoining the open-air Tamarindo lobby, the store becomes a favorite stop on one’s daily commute to paradise. Every piece on display, be it jewelry, ceramics or garment is hand-made in Mexico. More than a “gift shop”, it serves as a comprehensive design exhibition of Mexican creative talent. One craftsperson, we’re told, is a young girl who grew up blind but taught herself the art of ceramics. Her whimsical animal-themed bowls featured throughout the store bring light and levity to the world. ___ SPOTLIGHT: Tortilla Talent Scouting In Mexico, behind every great meal is a great tortilla. A corn tortilla. It may look simple, perfectly round and plain, but such minimalism is indeed art. And like any artform, it requires passion, precision (and tricep strength). With tortillas, it all starts with a kernel of knowledge about softening the gravel-like key ingredient to grind it into a paste. Just like most of us, a good long soak in a warm bath takes the fight out of the corn. Then on to the massage table known as the “metate”, an ancient stone + rolling pin device still favored today for pulverizing the toughest corn into a workable substance. That is, if one has the rippling musculature for the job. (A half a glass of Rosé helps fuel our needed gusto boost). Then it’s roll-baby, roll! One may settle into a meditative corn-crushing groove until gently cajoled back to reality by Tamarindo’s resident tortilla master who is tasked with teaching us the subtleties of this revered kitchen tradition. Next it’s press-time. We roll our corn mush into palm-sized balls and place them on a wood press that clamps down upon the subject like printing Gutenberg bibles. Release the pressure and voila, a perfectly round raw tortilla is formed! Now try getting said round, thin, flat and sticky tortilla off the press and on to the wood-fired “comal” that looks like a fiery kettle drum, flames shooting out from underneath its floured surface. But after a few tries we manage to pull it off, literally. We drop our objects d’art on the searing surface and watch as they bubble and lightly brown. We quickly find out though that flipping the tortilla without burning one’s fingertips is also an art. One that the rest of our rosé can’t help. We let the master flip them. Now it’s time to add variety. We crank out more tortillas, one batch topped with cheese, another with mushrooms, and finally, my personal favorite, the toile-like cilantro festooned tortilla, with each green leaf baked-in like inlay. As class is dismissed, our graduation is celebrated with a toast and a tasting of our corn creations. This new-found tortilla-enlightening now tops our list of the (many) pleasures of Tamarindo. Corn Heritage Cooking Class ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

The American landscape stretches out intently across half a hemisphere. A scene so vast it takes two oceans to frame it. Great forests and deserts meet patchwork farms that hopscotch their way to the bustling cities circled in highways. Add to that, the beauty of Alaska and Hawai’i waiting on the adjacent horizon. UNITED STATES The American landscape stretches out intently across half a hemisphere. A scene so vast it takes two oceans to frame it. Great forests and deserts meet patchwork farms that hopscotch their way to the bustling cities circled in highways. Add to that, the beauty of Alaska and Hawaiʻi waiting on the adjacent horizon. CALIFORNIA Treasures of the Golden State HAWAII The Spirit of Aloha ARIZONA (Coming Soon) LOUISIANA (Coming Soon) NEW MEXICO (Coming Soon) NEW YORK (Coming Soon)

Like a sampler box of each island, Oahu has Maui’s beaches, Kauai’s waterfalls, Lanai’s pineapple fields, Molokai’s mountains and Hawaii Island’s ancient relics, plus groundbreaking art, music, food, nightlife and of course, surfing. The only thing missing is an active volcano. OAHU, HAWAII Like a sampler box of each island, Oahu has Maui’s beaches, Kauai’s waterfalls, Lanai’s pineapple fields, Molokai’s mountains and Hawaii Island’s ancient relics, plus groundbreaking art, music, food, nightlife and of course, surfing. The only thing missing is an active volcano. FIVE FAVES / OAHU Surf Lore Oahu is known as the Gathering Place–and most gatherings come with surfboards. They are everywhere, in all colors and sizes. In Honolulu, shirtless surfers tote their prized accessory through luxury shopping centers along well-known shortcuts to the sea. Satisfied smiles and sandy toes return home after a morning of balancing atop unfurling waves powered by the pull of the moon. ___ Leahi & Makalei Beach Parks Almost hidden at the foot of Diamond Head are two oceanfront pocket parks so charming one wonders where the impressionist painters are. The lawn at Makalei Beach Park gives rise to yoga classes and meditation, while a little farther down Diamond Head Road lies Leahi Beach Park, where a stately vine-encased gazebo holds court at the seas’s edge. Down its salty steps at low tide, much is revealed in the receding surf. ___ Kaimana Beach If ever there was a “local’s” favorite beach, this is it. Home to all-day ohana picnics, morning paddle boarding, midday snorkeling, and the dreamiest of sunsets–and moon-sets, Kaimana Beach is warm and welcoming, like family. Sheltered by a reef that shreds the surf into a lake-like calm, a swim here ‘neath the swaying trade winds is (literally) an immersive sensory experience. ___ Kaimana Beach Hotel Arriving here feels like home, (assuming one’s home is a paradise of warm sand, shaded in brushstroke palm shadows, set to the rhythm of gentle waves and the occasional howl of a blender). Far from the frenzy of Waikiki, but close enough to walk to it, the Kaimana is perfectly located and right-sized, between the vast greenery of Kapiolani Park and the blue infinity of the Pacific. Simple rooms and a beloved beachside cafe tucked beneath a twisting Hau Tree. The same tree Robert Lewis Stephenson wrote poetry under in 1889. ___ Kapiolani Park Named after Queen Kapiolani, with Diamond Head forming its unmistakable crown, this great park nestles deep in the heart of Oahu locals. 300 acres of serenity located just east of Waikiki’s commotion. Expressive banyan trees generously canopy picnic areas, as manicured lawns host myriad activities. Kapiolani Park includes the Honolulu Zoo where Giraffes can be seen taking advantage of their height, peering over the perimeter fence at passersby below. ___ Shangri la Perched like a stately white seabird on a slab of black lava, Doris Duke’s Hawaiian estate is now a museum “dedicated to the furtherance and preservation of Islamic art”. In fact, the only museum dedicated exclusively to Islamic art in the United States, open to scholars, students and the public, as so directed in her will. Ms Duke, in her day the wealthiest woman in America, commissioned architect Marion Sims Wyeth, to realize a vision inspired by travels to Arabic countries, along with life and culture in Hawaii. Islamic architectural precision meets Hawaiian ease and openness. Quirky ingenuity also plays into the design with a massive glass livingroom door that, instead of sliding open, retracts into the floor—with a stop-setting at three feet high so she could enjoy the ocean breezes indoors while also keeping the dogs in. Tour tickets are available through the Honolulu Museum of Art . ___ Honolulu Museum of Art Perhaps the most satisfying art museum anywhere, this humble space, assembled around airy courtyards invites guests to enjoy its casual grace the way a favorite neighbor might welcome you in. A stunning permanent collection that celebrates the Hawaiian landscape and royal heritage forms the foundation for inspiring temporary exhibits and events. Not to mention the lovely alfresco cafe and extensive gift shop, themselves reason enough for a visit! ___ Downtown Inspirations Adding soul to state bureaucracy are some sculptural and architectural surprises in downtown HNL, amid the lawns of the state capital and Iolani palace. Noguchi’s Skygate (1977) is an imposing black steel “portal” linking the earth and cosmos, (or as Noguchi put it, “an evocation to the skies of Hawaii”). Its undulating form celebrates the twice-a-year phenomenon nicknamed “Lahaina Noon” where shadows normally cast by the sun vanish as the solar rays are angled straight down. Come see for yourself on May 26th, 12:28 pm, and on July 16th, 12:37 pm. Ever beautiful Queen Lilioukalani stands with “steadfast devotion in the hearts of her loyal people”. Fresh flowers are thoughtfully placed upon her likeness, an act of aloha that she appears to graciously offer in turn. The State Capitol rises like a modernist temple, its open-air architecture incorporating Hawaiian symbolic references to tall coconut palms, surging volcanoes, and the surrounding sea. –Between Beretania and King streets at Punchbowl Ave. ___ In the Pink The Royal Hawaiian Hotel opened in 1927 like a pink hibiscus bloom welcoming the sunrise. Today, as then, its windows frame the angular contours of Diamond Head and languid curve of Waikiki bay. Its pink walls the perfect complement to the turquoise surf. Built on the exact location in paradise where King Kamehameha slept and Queen Liliuokalani summered, “royal” is indeed its reality, but in family-style. Bellmen, bartenders and housekeepers exude “ohana”, some having worked at the hotel for decades. Join the sunrise salutation on the beach and find your aloha as you immerse in the gentle waves. And by all means, rehydrate at the Mai Tai Bar, saluting the sunset with Hawaii’s ultimate elixir. ___ Chinatown A gritty quirkiness is etched into the old storefronts and aged faces along these fading movie-set streets. Asian calligraphy flickers and sways beneath 1800’s overhangs that still shade the sidewalks. Fantastic vintage shops, lively restaurants, and the best prices on fragrant lei are found here. The best lei shops are Cindy’s and Tina’s. Single Double and Hound & Quail are world-class vintage stores selling delightfully kitschy local wares. Native Books is a treasured emporium of Hawaiian heritage and innovative crafts. As tiki bars go Skull & Crown is so unique you’ll need a reservation. Oʻahu’s favorite food truck has evolved into a destination Vietnamese restaurant here, The Pig & The Lady . CHINATOWN TIPS: Cindy’s Lei Shoppe Single Double GQ’s take on Single Double, Hawaii Hound & Quail Native Books Skull & Crown Trading Co. ___ Honolulu Botanical Gardens Eucalyptus trees in skintight camouflage stand tall like tent poles supporting the jungle canopy, while their long scissor-shaped leaves cut the afternoon sun to ribbons. Trails sidewind down to a creek that one can hear but not see in this dense showcase of Hawaiian flora. Each standout species is definitively labeled along paths of discovery in this, one of Honolulu’s five well-maintained but wildly-natural gardens. ___ The Art of Lei Hawaii’s floral gift of aloha is a thread that binds peace, love, honor and friendship. A petaled chain linking us to the honored traditions of Hawaiian ancestry. A lei represents love. Giving a lei is an offering of one’s love. For this reason, never throw away a lei, as it would suggest throwing away the love of the giver. Instead, return the lei to the earth by hanging it in a tree or burying it, or let it dry naturally and eventually place it onto a fire. May Day in Hawaii is Lei Day, honoring the custom of lei making with symbolism and pageantry. Each island joins in the celebration, represented in its official-color and flower: Hawaii: red, ohia lehua Maui: pink, lokelani Kahoolawe: gray or silver, hinahina Lanai: orange, kaunaoa Oahu: yellow or gold, ilima Molokai: green, kukui Kauai: purple, mokihana Niihau: white, pupu o Niihau shells Our two favorite lei shops can be found on the same quiet block of Maunakea Street in Chinatown. Cindy’s : 1034 Maunakea St. (808) 536-6538 Tina’s: 1136 Maunakea St. (808) 888-5310 ___ Allure of Diamond Head 19th century British mariners who came ashore at the foot of this now iconic mountain thought the sparkling calcite crystals in the sand were diamonds, hence the name. Its Hawaiian name is Leahi (brow of the tuna) in reference to the formation’s ridge line which resembles a dorsal fin. Stunning views of the Pacific Ocean and Honolulu reward one’s hike to the top of this 300,000-year old crater, the centerpiece of Hawaii's most popular State Park. ___ Diamond Head Community Gardens Diamond Head smiles down upon this sinless garden of Eden where ceramic Buddha’s and metal frogs frolic at the feet of bean stalks and stands of Swiss Chard. Neatly-arranged, beds of rich soil are tended to by their respective gardeners, each producing a stunning bounty of fruit, vegetables and flowers. Guests are welcomed to stroll through and admire–but not touch. Adjacent to Kapiolani park, one block south of Monsarrat Ave, between Paki and Leahi Avenues. ___ Local Eats (good and cheap) Island grocery store deli counters are as thrilling as seeing sea life through the widows at the Oahu Aquarium. The standout is Foodland stores, where thoughtfully prepared sushi and poke is made daily with the freshest fish at the most affordable prices. Small mom ‘n’ pop delis also crank out daily picnic plate lunches, featuring Ahi tuna rolls, Kalua pork, Lau Lau Chicken and much more. Among the best are Hawaii Sushi , Masa & Joyce and Waiahole Poi Factory , Diamond Head Market & Grill . ___ Kaimuki This delightfully eclectic neighborhood rests on the inland slope of Diamond Head. In the 1800’s, "Kai-moo-key" was King Kalakaua’s ostrich farm. Today, “ostrich”, might be found as a fabric pattern in several boutiques along Waialae Avenue, the main (but quirky) shopping corridor that cuts through the neighborhood. Creativity is a common chord resonating in Kaimuki, the boyhood home of revered Hawaiian musician, Israel Kamakawiwoole. Not to miss : The ever-scrumptious Mud Hen Water restaurant, the inventive and elegant Island Boy boutique , the mid-mod charm of Bean About Town coffee, and the vast and tasty Saturday Farmer’s Market at Kapiolani Community College. ___ KCC Farmer's Market Saturdays in Honolulu have added reason to celebrate the weekend with an amazing gathering of farmers, food trucks, bakers, florists, artists and healers known as the KCC Farmers Market. Nestled in the shaded parking lot of Kapiolani Community College, the combined superpowers of homegrown-Hawaii converge to trade their wares with an adoring public. Come early, it’s that good–and popular! ___ Tongg's Beach Towers These days, developers are required to build apartment and hotel towers at a responsible distance from the shore, but this eclectic collection of condos-in-paradise were built before those thoughtful state ordinances were introduced. Forgiving their shoreline proximity, each of these buildings at Tongg’s Beach, (where Kalakaua Ave meets Coconut Ave at the foot of Diamond Head), is a modernist marvel, designed by foremost architects of their day. Most notably, Vladimir Ossipoff , considered Hawaii’s Neutra, whose inventiveness and variety of styles is evident in many buildings on Oahu. Here, Ossipoff envisioned an Asian theatrical fantasy, complete with arched bridges dancing about like an over-caffeinated Kyoto temple. Ossipoff’s ultimate masterpiece is the Liljestrand House , a residence that seems to naturally emerge from its perch in the foothills high above Honolulu. One must reserve well ahead, but it’s worth the effort. ___ Waikiki Beach One might believe that Hawaiian gods poured sugar along this heavenly crescent to form the world’s most stunning beach. (The truth is, it’s civil engineers who, over time, have repurposed sand from nearby shoals–and faraway Manhattan Beach, CA in an effort to restore this 2 mile stretch of paradise). ___ In Hawaiian, Waikiki means spouting fresh water, for the springs and streams which fed the ancient wetlands here on the south shore of Oʻahu. In the 1800s, the grounds of Waikiki’s Royal Hawaiian Hotel once served as a retreat for Hawaiian royalty who surfed the local swells atop longboards. It was here that “Duke” earned his fame as the king of surfing. Also on this hallowed ground is the beautiful Royal Hawaiian Center, the crown jewel of retail and dining, with daily cultural performances set in its Royal Grove. Waikiki is indeed a wild contrast between glorious nature rolling in on turquoise waves and delirious shopping tugging on your wallet like a riptide. And that’s just by day! As evening arrives, slip on that new Fendi for sunset cocktails and truly great hula at House Without a Key, followed by dinner at Morimoto Asia. Then cap the night off with jazz at the Blue Note. Finally, you’ll want to kick off those shoes you just bought and walk back to your hotel with your toes in the sand. The Royal Hawaiian Hotel Royal Hawaiian Center House Without A Key Morimoto Asia Waikiki Blue Note Waikiki ___ Duke Paoa Kahanamoku He greets the dawn each day, offering warmth and aloha to the early sunlight headed straight for the beach like so many surfers. The sculpture of “DUKE” at Kalakaua & Uluniu avenues honors the ultimate surfer and Hawaiʻi’s first tourism icon. He introduced the term “aloha” to the world, always noting that it is much more than a greeting. The spirit of aloha. “Alo” means “face”, as in to “face one another”. “Ha” means breath, to “breathe kindness and compassion into the world”. Duke proved that every day of his life. Including one stormy day in 1925, off Newport Beach, CA when he rescued eight fishermen tossed from their capsized boat using just his hands and his surfboard to pull them from the roiling sea one by one. Such heroism stands eternal now in bronze, perpetually-laden with fresh Lei, embodying the spirit of aloha amid sidewalk passersby and Waikiki beachgoers, just as he did in life. ___ Riding the Oahu Railway The breeze rustles our hair as we speed along at a mighty 2 miles-per-hour. Patience is a virtue aboard this vintage train as it trudges up the coast towards its one whistle stop for ice cream. We can nearly spy our destination on the horizon as the converging tracks point like a compass needle to Ko Olina Station. At times our goal appears to move farther away despite the earnest huff and puff of the locomotive. But arrive we finally do, to the shaded lawns of this hand-created oasis amid the sun-baked hardscabble of Oahu’s western shore. Children wave their Black Sheep Cream cones as adults hail mai tais topped with lilikoi foam at Monkeypod Kitchen bar. Then it’s back on the rails for the reverse ride back to Ewa Beach where a toy train museum completes our adventure. We highly recommend booking seats on Parlor Car 64, the deluxe personal coach of railway founder, Benjamin Dillingham, resplendent in oak, mahogany and birds-eye maple decor and rattan seats, running every second-Sunday of the month. Oahu Railway Black Sheep Cream Co. Monkeypod Kitchen by Merriman ___ Byodo-In Temple A structure resplendent in a shade of red so loud one may feel it from afar. Or, perhaps that’s the sound of the three ton “bon-sho” brass bell ringing with repeated resonance like a mantra. We queue up to send a wish flying on a long log-on-a-rope that pounds into the side of the sacred bell, rendering a tone said to bring happiness, blessings, and a long life. The temple, a replica of a 1,000-year old Byodo-In Temple in Uji, Japan is set against the heaving green velvet curtain wall known as the Koolau mountains. The temple’s primary resident, Amida Buddha sits in golden splendor amid this hallowed fold in the Valley of the Temples Memorial Park, Kaneohe on the windward side of Oahu. ___ Pill Box Trail (aka: Kaiwa Trail) This is why God created all-terrain sneakers and Tevas. A heavenly 30-minute slippery slope that delivers hikers to a spectacular view of Lani Kai beach with its busty twin islands rising from an impossibly-turquoise sea as the languid windward coast stretches out in both directions, all poised against the wickedly jagged wall of the Koolau Mountains. Not to mention the two namesake WWII “pillbox” lookout bunkers to contemplate atop once you reach the heights. The Kaiwa trailhead is located in Lani Kai, on Kaelepulu Dr, opposite the Mid-Pacific Country Club. ___ KAILUA During the Obama era, I used to refer to Kailua as “paradise at the presidential level”, given the then president’s penchant for this perfect beach on his home island. In any era, this is perfection. Especially mornings, walking the dogs along the sugary-white crescent of sand from one end to the other—and back. Nico’s Kailua serves great meals and local music at the north end of town while Buzz’s Steak House tantalizes the south end with strong mai tais and a menu of favorites. Kailua Beach Park Nico's Kailua Buzz's Original Steak House ___ Kawela Bay A blissful Sunday drive around the entire island of Oahu is a day spent visiting every Hawaiian island, as Oahu is a sampler of all of them. Perhaps the best part of the drive is the least-known. The hidden pleasure of Kawela Bay, with its gentle surf and crescent beach. A fruit stand on the inland side of Kamehameha Hwy 38 marks the spot at Kawela Camp Rd, just west of Turtle Bay. Park on the roadside and slip through the official gap in the fence, then amble straight to the seashore under the haunted arms of ancient Banyan trees to the crystal blue bay. Stretch out your towel on the warm sand and ponder the years that have passed without you knowing of such tranquil beauty. ___ Drive-Through Paradise Hoomaluhia Botanical Garden is a drive-through paradise. Every pull-off along the tranquil roadway represents a unique tropical region from around the world. Leaves of every sort and size wave as we pass while crazy arrays of birds chirp and flutter. Known as "a peaceful refuge”, the park was designed to provide flood protection for Kaneohe, in perhaps the most artful work ever built by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. Even the restrooms and picnic pavilions blend in as modernist tributes to the natural surroundings. Hoomaluhia Botanical Garden ___ A Tale of Two Heiaus The Hawaiian Heiau is a place of worship from ancient times. Some were sacred religious complexes where rituals involving human or animal sacrifice and other ceremonies took place. Today, their geometric black lava ruins rest in reverent silence on beds of verdant grasses. KEAIWA HEIAU This kinder, gentler temple is believed to have life-giving powers where Hawaiian herb doctors once practiced, using select herbs grown in nearby gardens. PUU O MAHUKA HEIAU A massive shrine embossed on the landscape atop an high cliff, this, the largest Heiau on Oahu overlooks Waimea Bay and the abundant Waimea Valley. It’s torchlights served as a communications system with neighboring Kauai island. Top two images: Keaiwa Heiau Bottom image: Puu O Mahuka Heiau ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Islet in the Sun. Curled up on the shore like a curvaceous starlet, this arc of red and white sand is a sumptuous and cinematic dream come true. SVETI STEFAN, MONTENEGRO Islet in the Sun. Curled up on the shore like a curvaceous starlet, this arc of red and white sand is a sumptuous and cinematic dream come true. 15th Century Serenity The sand along this curve of the Montenegro coastline is a crunchy confetti in red, black and grey, ground to perfection through the ages by the Adriatic Sea. Sheltered in the calm beneath Sveti Stefan islet, the multicolored beach forms an irresistible bed for sunbathers. In the center of this idyll, a stone viaduct reaches out from the shore, providing passage to the tiny island that was once a fishing village, reincarnated today as an impeccable AMAN Hotel . ___ Photo by Aman Group Back DESTINATIONS Next

Explore a medieval magical wonder. Behind the formidable walls of this ancient city, there is a sense of openness that feels quite contemporary. An architectural treasure so dramatic it could be its own opera stage—not to mention being the set of Game of Thrones! DUBROVNIK, CROATIA Explore a medieval magical wonder. Behind the formidable walls of this ancient city, there is a sense of openness that feels quite contemporary. An architectural treasure so dramatic it could be its own opera stage—not to mention being the set of Game of Thrones! Timeless Old Town A city in cosplay, this walled medieval village is subject to visiting throngs of Thrones fans taking over the stone streets like scenes from a zombie film. The best way to avoid the invasion of fandom and cruise ship fodder is to rise very early and be among the first through the gates. What greets you then is a freshly rinsed wonder, protected through the ages by a battlement wall that beckons a 360 stroll. The streets and plazas in the center are like candy, enticing the visitor to try one more shop or cafe before closing the box. ___ SPOTLIGHT: Lady PiPi Lady PiPi noted for its playfully pornographic sculpture out front, and it’s freshly grilled delights inside, this patio-under-a-grape-arbor restaurant is the only eatery one needs to know within the walled city. Whole fish sizzle over aromatic wood fires, dutifully attended to and beautifully served. If there’s a wait, it’s worth it, giving one added time to ponder the inspiration for the artwork that “bares” the name, “pipi”. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Our top five favorite things to do in the wine country of Provence, France. 1 Colors of Roussillon French rosé in the form of buildings rather than bottles. Visiting the town is like rubbing shoulders with a French Expressionist's palette, its colors literally derived from the local hillsides. PROVENCE, FRANCE 2 Sipping Kir Royales in Aix-en-Provence The summer daylight hangs on well into happy hour as the "city of a thousand fountains" welcomes the evening. Plant yourself in the middle of it all, like an island in a bubbly stream. PROVENCE, FRANCE 3 Lacoste The Marquis de Sade once called it home. Pierre Cardin called it his , after buying up most of the village. Today, it stands as a stunning example of thoughtful preservation, education and culture. PROVENCE, FRANCE 4 Market Day in Lourmarin Morning light inches down ivy walls as vendors set up a truly great street market. Every Friday, a cavalcade of food, flowers, jewelry, art and antiques line the lovely lanes of Lourmarin. PROVENCE, FRANCE 5 The Flavors of Bonnieux Beautifully plated and wonderfully satiated, here, just one hilltop east of Lacoste. Discover the artful bounty that is Bonnieux, a 13th century papal village with palpably modern tastes. PROVENCE, FRANCE Back FIVE FAVES Next

Glazed in the light of centuries past, this launching pad to the Age of Discoveries is lined with dramatic bluffs resembling fortress walls, yet far more welcoming. The warmth of the southern sunlight still illuminates dreams like those of the 16th Century explorers who set sail from these shores. ALGARVE, PORTUGAL Glazed in the light of centuries past, this launching pad to the Age of Discoveries is lined with dramatic bluffs resembling fortress walls, yet far more welcoming. The warmth of the southern sunlight still illuminates dreams like those of the 16th Century explorers who set sail from these shores. Seaborne Inspiration The villages of Luz, Salema and Lago lay nestled along Albufeira coastline, as if borne of the sea. Patterns and colors of the tides decorate local homes and shops while cafes serve up its bounty as an art form. Below the craggy cliffs, the ocean swirls in turquoise, as the squinting sun reveals miles of beaches as far as the eyes can see. ___ The Ultimate Catch Rows of umbrellas mimic the arrangement of neighboring 19th century terracotta octopus traps on the beach at Salema. As vacationers nest in circles of shade, unwitting octopus slide into these amphora shaped shelters lying in wait on the sea floor. As they have since Phoenician times, Portuguese fishermen haul in the long ropes attached to these vases, along with their tentacled catch inside, soon becoming the day’s menu staple. ___ Island of Childlike Delight The island of Armona is like a child’s toy village where every structure along its single boardwalk seems to have been built at 7/8th’s scale. Originally the rustic roost of weathered fishermen, these old abodes now serve as the vacation homes of artists, musicians and other alternative raconteurs. ___ Star(fish) Trek A charming sand-swept beach bar, located at a definitive bend in the boardwalk offers a delicious reason to stop midway on one’s trek to the shore. All necessities and luxuries are delivered via this narrow path, including drinking water to the colorful array of former fishermen shacks. ___ Olhão, Yes! Back on the mainland, along this southern shore where Portugal bends to meet up with Spain, one discovers the cultural and culinary delights of Olhão and Tavira. These seaside towns are dotted with artisan shops and cafes so quaint one wishes they could be packed into our suitcases as well as our memories. ___ Portuguese Pavement Portugal is the one destination where visitors are encouraged not to look up as much as down because one mustn’t miss the intricate mosaic detail in the tiled streets, sidewalks and plazas. Calcada Portuguesa or “Portuguese Pavement” is the country’s signature design element. A treasured artisan trade that originated in Lisbon, and soon paved its way into every town, including Olhão where a father and son scurry home across one of many calcada showcases. ___ Southern Comfort The Rio Guadiana divides Portugal from Spain here on Europe’s southern shore like a slow-moving sword blade through sand. Both sides look similarly bleak, like a Wim Wenders landscape, however, some unexpectedly dreamy, beachy pockets lay just past the warehouses on Avenida Ville La Baule. The fresh fish and perfect fries at Dom Petisco on the river’s edge is, in itself, worth the drive to this end of Portugal. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Our top five favorite things to do in the vibrant and temple city of Kyoto, Japan. 1 Yasaka Pagoda Inspired by a dream, it was built by the Imperial Prince Shotoku in 589, standing dreamily ever since, like a beacon of grace above the whispers along the cobbled lanes of Gion . KYOTO, JAPAN 2 Juu-go Soba Cafe Here, perfect noodles are born before one’s eyes. Formed, sliced and swirled, as seen through the stage-like kitchen window, where the muscular chef/owner works at a pace mimicking timelapse photography. But once served, this soba commands slow motion to savor this buckwheat delight. KYOTO, JAPAN 3 Ginkaku-ji Temple With its otherworldly flat-topped cone resting like an alien space craft in the middle of the main garden and the many entrancing trails that braid up the hillside through a thoughtfully tended fantasy landscape, one knows they have arrived at an elevated plane, –visually and spiritually. KYOTO, JAPAN 4 Ryokan Genhouin A stay at this ryokan is as tranquil as a sleeping cat. In each room, a single-stem flower in a zen niche inspires contemplation. A renewing onsen invites guests to slip out of their kimonos and fold into the warm water bath —wide enough to include friends! KYOTO, JAPAN 5 Honen-in Temple Matcha tea is served in a bowl-like vessel alongside a matching-green squishy nugget of mochi in an intricate but relaxed wooden temple, where time stands still long enough for you to contemplate the moment. Outside, the structure and its sumptuous surroundings will attend to all your other senses. KYOTO, JAPAN Back FIVE FAVES Next

Our top five favorite things to do in the living metropolis of México City. 1 National Museum of Anthropology A massive mushroom-like umbrella balances atop a sequoia-sized pillar, perpetually bestowing a mesmerizing rain dance onto the museum courtyard below. Inside, galleries dazzle with artefacts from México's indigenous Maya, Aztec and Olmec cultures. A must-see, must-absorb experience in beautiful Polanco. MÉXICO CITY, MÉXICO 2 San Ángel Inn A Colonial era Eden where shaded verandas and verdant courtyards meet like lovers. Temptation here is the signature margarita, served “up” in salt-rimmed martini glasses. One’s second dose is kept chilled in a personal-size silver ice bucket. Any pain or suffering carried in upon arrival no longer registers as of the 2nd round. The table-side Caesar salad takes two waiters to whisk to perfection, but leave room (and time) for the bakery and gift shop! MÉXICO CITY, MÉXICO 3 Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo Studio Standing in artful contrast with its Colonial-era San Angel neighborhood, “Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo” appears like an architectural space craft. Its Martian-orange moderne facade glows like the masterworks that were created inside. The co-habited home/studio of iconic artists Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo still seems abuzz with their artworks and tools displayed just as they left them. MÉXICO CITY, MÉXICO 4 Juárez Home to artists and intellectuals in past eras, this historic neighborhood now thrives with contemporary shops and restaurants nestled comfortably in 19th century townhouses. Modern Korean cuisine sizzles in the area’s K-Town, as does a proud gay community in its “Pink Zone”. Juarez is all about bespoke clothes, cultural curios, swank salons, and dreamy cafes. MÉXICO CITY, MÉXICO 5 Panadaría Rosetta The best reason to wake up in México City, no matter how bad the jet lag. Slip onto a stool and just ponder the truly phenomenal array of pastry options. We’re talking the best pastries of all time. This is why we travel to México City. Not to mention Rosetta’s scrumptious cortado, which assures a bright-eyed start to your CDMX morning. MÉXICO CITY, MÉXICO Image courtesy of Panadaría Rosetta Back FIVE FAVES Next

The beauty and effervescence of wine country runs deep in the Douro River Valley. The river flows gently, like vino verde into your glass, sparkling at the foot of steep stepped hillsides that climb like vines towards the sky. DOURO RIVER, PORTUGAL The beauty and effervescence of wine country runs deep in the Douro River Valley. The river flows gently, like vino verde into your glass, sparkling at the foot of steep stepped hillsides that climb like vines towards the sky. Uncorking Portugal’s Wine Country Arrive by train, or boat, or car, but no matter your desired conveyance, the river will guide you. It is central to the magic of this region. We like the vintage steam train with its billowing cumulus floating briefly over the river, as we chug along its bends and curves. Rows of grape vines flash by, blending into the ripples on the water. Bathers, tucked in to tranquil river eddies wave as we roll by with a whistle heralding our arrival. ___ An Artisanal Landscape Casa dos Viscondes is splayed out across the landscape like a welcoming picnic blanket, complete with the basket of delights. A long driveway leads through the gates and builds with excitement as we wind our way past the vineyards to the main house. Glorious views open onto the hills as cloud shadows make their way like watercolor animation. ___ Reasons to Howl Here the day goes by with little notice of the time. Especially for the master of the Casa, holding court on the front steps, who assumes guests will make the hurdle over his reddish haunches. In the nearby town of Peso da Régua, shop walls are lined with wine bottled bookshelves like studious libraries. ___ Days of Heaven Like in a daydream, our hotel lay nestled in the folds of steep hillside vineyards along the Douro River, just a few beautiful hours upstream from Porto via train or boat. Once settled in, a long turquoise pool awaits, framed by a summer lawn as warm and soft as a fresh towel. The day is topped off with the crisp delight of local vino verde. The hot sun will soon cool behind the trees as dinner is readied up at the main house. Its stone terrace setting the stage for moonlit retellings of the days’ adventures. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next