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After a rough-hewn ride in from the Manzanillo (ZLO) airport, the sweeping ocean vistas and stunning architectural forms of the Four Seasons Tamarindo resort suddenly come into view, making an unforgettable impression on the senses. Like finding a black diamond in the sand, this modernist stone, glass and concrete temple dazzles on every level. ROUTE 66, CALIFORNIA Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id. Santa Monica Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum. ___ Beverly Hills Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum. ___ West Hollywood Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum. ___ Echo Park Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum. ___ South Pasadena Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum. ___ Pasadena Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum. ___ Monrovia Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum. ___ Claremont Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum. ___ Rancho Cucamonga Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum. ___ San Bernardino Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum. ___ Victorville Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum. ___ Bagdad Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum. ___ Barstow Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum. ___ Amboy Crater Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum. ___ Mojave National Preserve Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum. ___ Kelso Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum. ___ Needles Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum. ___ Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Hither and Wander is a unique travel resource exploring distinct destinations with tips and recommendations. Plus, travel lifestyle ideas including home decor and international recipes. Unique Travel Resource Best private beach to visit, Stiniva Beach, Vis, Croatia by top travel guide Hither and Wander Unique Travel Resource Beautiful sunset view at Mont Saint-Michel castle in Brittany, France by best travel blog Unique Travel Resource The best season to travel, gorgeous autumn leaves at the temple gates in Kyoto, Japan by top travel blog Unique Travel Resource Best private beach to visit, Stiniva Beach, Vis, Croatia by top travel guide Hither and Wander 1/15 Awa y to discover. Journey with us as we explore dist inct d estinations . Discover our favorite picks, tips and travel- inspired ideas for your world at home. Come hither , and wander with us! EXPLORE DESTINATIONS C O N S U L T I N G Creative consulting for hospitality, travel and lifestyle brands. LEARN MORE JOIN OUR NEWSLETTER Away to connect. An exclusiv e page of seasonal travel tips and lifestyle ideas o nly available in our newsletter when you join ! EMAIL SUBSCRIBE Thanks for subscribing! As a creative director in global travel publishing, I focus on the sensory experiences that make a journey memorable. Collaborations with award-winning writers and photographers sharpened my vision in creating this collection, mostly shot on my iPhone. — Haines Wilkerson Founder READ MORE FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @hitherandwander @hitherandwander Load More

México City, aka ”Ciudad de México, or just “CDMX” is a living metropolis like no other. 20 million residents quilted across 573 square miles, in a Lego landscape framed by mountains and active volcanoes. MÉXICO CITY México City, aka ”Ciudad de México, or just “CDMX” is a living metropolis like no other. 20 million residents quilted across 573 square miles, in a Lego landscape framed by mountains and active volcanoes. While it appears impossibly vast from an airplane window, here on the ground, each neighborhood evokes a surprisingly serene quality. Individual enclaves budding with proud artistry, unique architecture and swoon worthy cuisine. Centro Histórico A constant swirl of activity, Centro is like the center of a galaxy, timeless and alluring and absolutely alive. At its heart, ancient ruins of the Aztec Templo Mayor feel almost buried by the centuries it’s endured amid the flurry, not to mention the futility of seeing its stones repurposed by the conquering Spanish to form the walls of Catholic cathedrals. Their bell towers casting sundial shadows across the vast plazas. Also standing tall in Centro CDMX is the Palacio de Bellas Artes, the Metropolitan Cathedral, the Palacio Nacional, the Church of Santo Domingo, Museo Nacional de Arte and the Museo Frida Kahlo. ___ Roma Norte Ironic that this modern-aesthetic neighborhood lined with design-centric cafes, fusion restaurants, vintage shops and spiky bohemes dates back to the 20th century, when affluent families first relocated here, beyond the hubbub of Centro Histórico. Roma Norte and Condesa are close sisters, sophisticated yet laid back and welcoming. ___ Plaza Río de Janeiro The timelessly-toned gluteus maximus of Michelangelo‘s David adds muscularity to the serenity of Roma Norte. While David looks to have been standing here for ages, this impressive bronze replica of the original was created in 2020. Weighing in at trim 284.16 lbs. and standing an erect 16.96 ft., this Alpha-generation David is one of two replicas gracing CDMX. His impeccable white marble twin greets visitors in the grand lobby of the Museo Soumaya in Polanco. ___ Juárez The Colonia Juárez neighborhood, shaped like an airplane wing, has always been home to a lofty group of artists and intellectuals, despite eras of financial decay and earthquake damage. Today, it thrives with creative shops and restaurants nestled in early 19th century townhouses. It hosts a lively Korean enclave (with the K-town cuisine options to go with it) and a proud gay community in its “Pink Zone”. In our opinion, here you’ll discover the best bespoke clothes, curios, salons, and cafes. ___ Condesa “The Countess”, indeed. Elegant, charming, colorful, festive, ready to receive her bohemian subjects and visiting guests in leafy pageantry. Art deco buildings crown the walkable tree-lined streets like a tiara, adding streamline sensibility to this historic neighborhood in the Cuauhtémoc borough. By day, genteel, and welcoming, but by night our countess steps out into the lively, international nightlife of the Hipodromo ‘hood. All together, a mix of stunning restaurants, bookshops, bars and boutique inns define Condesa, along with its youthful energy and sophisticated design. The only reason to explore beyond its many charms is the related simple wonders of neighboring Roma-Norte (and Juárez!) ___ Museums México City’s trove of art and anthropological collections is reason enough to visit the city. Presented in glorious venues, each museum in CDMX colors us spellbound and inspired. ___ National Museum of Anthropology In its central courtyard, an impossibly massive rectangular mushroom umbrella seems to hover overhead, balanced atop a single sequoia-sized pillar. The usually-penetrating Mexican sun is effortlessly eclipsed by this towering centerpiece designed in 1964 by visionary architects, Pedro Ramírez Vázquez, Jorge Campuzano, and Rafael Mijares Alcérreca. As if some sort of alien form, it drizzles water onto the pond below in a mesmerizing rain dance, like a set piece from David Lynch’s Dune. Inside the galleries that flank this phenomenon are artefacts from México's indigenous Maya, Aztec and Olmec cultures. Mind-bending pieces that intricately illustrate the complexities and beauties of lifetimes past. ___ Chapultepec Castle It said that one of these young Niños Héroes cadets, memorialized in bronze, wrapped himself in the Mexican flag and leaped to his death from this very balustrade rather than surrender to the American army that would soon take the castle in 1847. It survived the Mexican-American war and the regrettable rule of Austrian archduke Emperor Maximilian, who, in 1864 imported a very non-indigenous interior design style to this strategic hillside fortress/royal home, not to mention a most objectionable–and doomed monarchy rule. (His was executed in 1867). Originally a sacred place to the Aztecs, Chapultepec means “Hill of the Grasshoppers” in their language. Today it is home to the National Museum of History with an array of fascinating artifacts and exhibits. ___ Soumaya Museum When one is one of the richest people on the planet, one may conceive and construct an out-of-this-world gallery for one’s own private collection, assembled in one place to be appreciated by all. Hence the genesis of this undulating modern jewelbox that houses spectacular works starting with an exact marble replica of Michelangelo‘s David in the lobby, then spiraling its way up to a cavalcade of masterworks. The honeycomb stainless steel exterior is jaw dropping, and the collection inside is breathtaking. ___ Museo de Arte Moderno 1964 must have been such a celebrated year culturally for CDMX, with this dual-cylinder museum debuting along with its sister, the masterpiece Anthropology Museum. “MAM” is both charming and impressive, welcoming and awe-inspiring. Located in Chapultepec Park, it features an enviable permanent collection with works by Mexican masters, Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera and beyond exhibited in the two circular buildings, joined by a sculpture garden. Inspired temporary exhibitions also dazzle, so much so that repeated visits are recommended for return travelers. ___ Frida Kahlo Museum Frida slept here. She painted masterpieces from her bed. Frail and permanently impaired from an accident in 1925 as she was riding on a bus, she managed as if by a miracle. A steel rod had pierced her 18 year old body like a cruel sword yet somehow, she and her talent survived, living on with the lightness of a butterfly. An angel on this earth–with a paint brush. Her Devine space, known as the Blue House in Coyoacán was her home, her studio and her infirmary. Patti Smith wrote this poem after visiting Frida’s thoughtfully preserved bedside. I can not walk I can not see Further than what Is in front of me I lay on my back yet I do not cry Transported in space by the butterflies. Above my bed Another sky With the wings you sent Within my sight All pain dissolves In another light Transported thru Time By the butterfly ___ Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo Studio Nestled in the lovely San Angel district, a historical area treasured for its colonial architecture and cobbled streets, “Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo” is the former co-habited home/studio of iconic artists Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. The studio still seems very much abuzz with artwork displayed on easels and the intricate tools, once in the hands of these two artists arranged on tables as if masterworks are underway as we speak. Rivera’s extensive collection of indigenous artwork is on display, just as he left it. The building itself is a work of art, designed in 1929 by Rivera’s friend, architect Juan O’Gorman, in a style that combines traditional Mexican architecture with functionalist design. Enjoy this virtual tour of the property, made possible by the Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes. ___ Standout Dining & Imbibing An ample portion of the delirious pleasure of México City is in its dining and drinking. Just as this metropolis is home to the purest form of the Spanish language, the true essence of Mexican cuisine is borne here. CDMX is the test kitchen where traditional cuisine meets modern experimentation. And that goes for cocktail crafting as well! To top it all off, restaurant design here is theater, be it bohemian or elegant, the inventive staging enlivens each performance. There are SO many greats, but here’s our top three… ___ San Ángel Inn This grand but soft spoken Colonial-era hacienda stretches out in siesta style sensuality, where shaded verandas and verdant courtyard gardens meet like lovers. In this Eden, margaritas are served “up”, poured with pride by the waiter into salt-rimmed martini glasses. One’s replenishment, equal to the first pour, is kept chilled in a silver vile resting on a cloud of crushed ice in one’s own personal-size silver ice bucket. Any pain or suffering that one may have carried in upon arrival, no longer registers as of the 2nd round. I believe this to be the finest margarita in the world. Order the table side Caesar which takes two waiters to whisk and toss to perfection. If more ballast is desired, the menu overfloweth with traditional delights, not to mention memorable desserts. Then there’s the bakery and gift shop! ___ Azul Histórico Perhaps the most beautiful restaurant anywhere, it rests in the open air courtyard of a 17th-century palace. Your table awaits beneath gestural trees and a soaring vertical wall garden. Chef Ricardo Muñoz Zurita has re-conjured certain moles and salsas that hail from another time in México City, previously unfamiliar even to serious foodies. Zurita’s Mole Negro and his Oaxacan tortilla soup are highlights in our book. Savor this quiet respite, in such contrast with the bustle of Centro just outside these 17th-century walls. ___ Panadaría Rosetta The best reason to wake up in México City is Rosetta, no matter how bad the jet lag. I could sleepwalk to her subterranean panadaría in Juarez, (and I think I may have! Twice!!) Pajamas are permitted as one slips onto a stool, pondering the fantastic pastry options as they come into focus. You see, these are the best pastries of all time. The real reason to travel to México City? Rosetta pastries. And her delicious cortado will assure a bright-eyed start to your day in CDMX. ___ Local Arts & Crafts Every sidewalk window, in every part of town seems to be a showcase for local artisan handiwork. This can lead to challenging space concerns with regards to one’s carry-on luggage. Condesa, Roma Norte and Juárez are home to the best curios and antiques. One in particular is Origen México Artesanías. The operators of this tiny but cock-full shop in Juárez should be commended. Their lovely wares are the reward for their work to improve the living conditions of Mexican craftsmen by helping facilitate sales, education and management skills. They work with each artisan to produce products that incorporate innovation, yet preserve strong cultural origins. ___ Holiday CDMX Winter slips in over this 7,000ft metropolis like a feathery duvet, silently warming the sprawl of city life with renewed energy. Mexican tin Christmas trees glimmer and glow from apartment windows while giant multi-pointed stars illuminate the streets as they float over town plazas. Churches seem dipped in gold and outdoor nativity scenes are awash in waves of colored paper flowers. Lovers walk in the long parkways wearing matching santa caps, embracing the charm of the season and the annual promise of peace on earth. ___ Half-Day Trips It’s hard to tell where and when one will find the outskirts of town in this endless population of 9 million+. But, trust us, it’s worth the ride. The great pyramids, the goofy gondolas, and an extraterrestrial orbit of concrete, all just a half-day there and back. So buckle up! ___ Xochimilco Gondola Boats Known as the "Venice of México," Xochimilco is the home port for gondola-like boats, or “trajineras” that navigate its ancient canal system. (Reality check: This is not a bit like Venice! ;-) Hire a trajinera for a drift through the canals, past floating gardens (chinampas) blooming to the beat of mariachi bands and the call of floating vendors selling food and drinks. Trajineras rent by the hour, with weekend tours geared more to partying and weekday cruising more about nature. Having experienced the vacant boredom of the weekday option, the weekend looks to be a lot more fun. Bring a boatful of friends and drinks and this might actually be great. ___ Universidad Nacional Autónoma In a Sistine Chapel-like moment in modern art history, the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) became the shrine of (literally) groundbreaking outdoor art, integrated with astonishing architecture. The most famous is the multi-story mosaic murals of Juan O'Gorman, produced in Michelangelo-like incredulity between 1948 and 1955. Wrapping all four sides of the stark library structure, the murals depict key moments of Mexican history and culture. Just to the south, in an ecological reserve, lay an environmental artwork straight out of Kubrick’s 2001 A Space Odyssey. Six sculptors—Federico Silva, Hersúa, Helen Escobedo, Sebastián, Mathias Goeritz, and Manuel Felguérez together imagined and constructed this 120-meter diameter ring of volcanic stone featuring 64 triangular forms arranged in a perfect circle around a field of lava rock. Think Stonehenge–on steroids. Fanning out from the circle is the Sculpture Walk, a sculptors’ nature trail featuring individual (and climbable) large-format sculptures by each of the six “Circle”artists. ___ SPOTLIGHT: Teotihuacan Pyramid The Manhattan of Mesoamerica, this ancient city predates the Aztec Empire by several centuries, –roughly the first half of the first millennium (1 CE to 500 CE). Teotihuacan was the largest city in the Americas, with a population of at least 25,000, but some estimates have it at 125,000 residents, maybe more. Located 25 miles northeast of México City, it is the most architecturally significant Mesoamerican pyramid in the Americas. Or, more accurately, two pyramids. Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon. 100% worth the drive from CDMX, so long as you wear comfy climbing shoes and good sun protection. Once you come down from the Sun and Moon, a surprisingly good restaurant, La Gruta awaits you underground, in a cave! Light a candle to make a wish after your lunch and head back into town for dinner. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Glazed in the light of centuries past, this launching pad to the Age of Discoveries is lined with dramatic bluffs resembling fortress walls, yet far more welcoming. The warmth of the southern sunlight still illuminates dreams like those of the 16th Century explorers who set sail from these shores. ALGARVE, PORTUGAL Glazed in the light of centuries past, this launching pad to the Age of Discoveries is lined with dramatic bluffs resembling fortress walls, yet far more welcoming. The warmth of the southern sunlight still illuminates dreams like those of the 16th Century explorers who set sail from these shores. Seaborne Inspiration The villages of Luz, Salema and Lago lay nestled along Albufeira coastline, as if borne of the sea. Patterns and colors of the tides decorate local homes and shops while cafes serve up its bounty as an art form. Below the craggy cliffs, the ocean swirls in turquoise, as the squinting sun reveals miles of beaches as far as the eyes can see. ___ The Ultimate Catch Rows of umbrellas mimic the arrangement of neighboring 19th century terracotta octopus traps on the beach at Salema. As vacationers nest in circles of shade, unwitting octopus slide into these amphora shaped shelters lying in wait on the sea floor. As they have since Phoenician times, Portuguese fishermen haul in the long ropes attached to these vases, along with their tentacled catch inside, soon becoming the day’s menu staple. ___ Island of Childlike Delight The island of Armona is like a child’s toy village where every structure along its single boardwalk seems to have been built at 7/8th’s scale. Originally the rustic roost of weathered fishermen, these old abodes now serve as the vacation homes of artists, musicians and other alternative raconteurs. ___ Star(fish) Trek A charming sand-swept beach bar, located at a definitive bend in the boardwalk offers a delicious reason to stop midway on one’s trek to the shore. All necessities and luxuries are delivered via this narrow path, including drinking water to the colorful array of former fishermen shacks. ___ Olhão, Yes! Back on the mainland, along this southern shore where Portugal bends to meet up with Spain, one discovers the cultural and culinary delights of Olhão and Tavira. These seaside towns are dotted with artisan shops and cafes so quaint one wishes they could be packed into our suitcases as well as our memories. ___ Portuguese Pavement Portugal is the one destination where visitors are encouraged not to look up as much as down because one mustn’t miss the intricate mosaic detail in the tiled streets, sidewalks and plazas. Calcada Portuguesa or “Portuguese Pavement” is the country’s signature design element. A treasured artisan trade that originated in Lisbon, and soon paved its way into every town, including Olhão where a father and son scurry home across one of many calcada showcases. ___ Southern Comfort The Rio Guadiana divides Portugal from Spain here on Europe’s southern shore like a slow-moving sword blade through sand. Both sides look similarly bleak, like a Wim Wenders landscape, however, some unexpectedly dreamy, beachy pockets lay just past the warehouses on Avenida Ville La Baule. The fresh fish and perfect fries at Dom Petisco on the river’s edge is, in itself, worth the drive to this end of Portugal. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

A crisp mountain breeze swirls the meadow grasses at Juniper Point as the lake slumbers in the distance like a "big bear." Up here, at nearly 7,000ft the air is fresh and clean, the perfect environment to revitalize one’s senses, with lots of hikes for the body—and a zillion stars for the soul. BIG BEAR LAKE, CALIFORNIA A crisp mountain breeze swirls the meadow grasses at Juniper Point as the lake slumbers in the distance like a "big bear." Up here, at nearly 7,000ft the air is fresh and clean, the perfect environment to revitalize one’s senses, with lots of hikes for the body—and a zillion stars for the soul. FIVE FAVES / BIG BEAR LAKE The Lake Like most of the West, Big Bear Lake’s origin story is one of indigenous tribes thriving peacefully off the land, eventually getting pushed out by Spanish missionaries who themselves were squeezed out by white Americans relocating from the east. The original dam that created the lake was a stone wall, built in 1884 to collect water for agriculture at the foot of the mountain. A bigger dam was added in 1911 which doubled the size of the lake. The present dam is a graceful but sturdy refurbishment of the 1911 multiple arch design. It provides for the 10 mile long sun dappled lake we love today. ___ Boulder Bay As its name suggests, this tranquil inlet is bookended by boulders. Not dinosaur-egg size, these are the size of three story homes—and there’s some of those here too! Imagine having the pleasure (and the building permits, which were somehow granted) to enjoy this view from your living room 24/7! But rest assured, the rest of us can enjoy an equally fantastic panorama from Boulder Bay Park, punctuated by tall pines and more boulders. There’s a gazebo with tables to shade your picnic from the sun and plenty of camera-ready benches for lakeside photo ops. The water in the inner bay is like a mirror making the boulders appear to float like fantasy castles. Slip a kayak into the moment and glide along. You can rent them right next-door at Big Bear Lake Kayaks , in any color of the rainbow. ___ Juniper Point This north lakeshore paradise off Hwy 18 is perhaps the most stunning place in all of Big Bear. Here the sparkling lake is greeted by a sweeping meadow, outlined with Ponderosa Pines and twisting Juniper trees. Spring-fed creeks lay almost hidden in the tall grasses, seen only when crossing over wooden footpath bridges. At mid-meadow, the view deserves a movie-score crescendo with the deep blue lake underlining a vast mountain diorama, including Snow Summit’s ski runs, scribed upon the green hillsides like Japanese calligraphy. Flocks of birds soar, following their appointed leader along the water’s edge, then banking right to survey the food options along the south shore. Parking is easy, but a forest Adventure Pass is advised, available at the Visitor’s Center and the Discovery Center. ___ SPOTLIGHT: The Wilkie Cabin This glowing midcentury mountain retreat was built on weekends by my father and uncle (Wilkie and Bob). They began construction when I was two and nailed the last board into place the year I turned 16. Fourteen years of hammering and sawing through the 1950s, ‘60s and ‘70s passed before their dream cabin was completed. It was originally designed as a two story cabin, but dad and Bob became enchanted with the new "A-frame" cabin designs introduced in the mid 60s. Soon these weekend warriors, armed with Skil saws and swear words added a beautiful A-frame loft. As kids, we’d roost up there, side-by-side in our sleeping bags, watching the night sky through the big pyramid-shaped window that points straight to the stars. Dad was never quite content with the notion that his work here was done. He sketched a concept for a dormer to be added on the backside of the roof, providing a 3rd bedroom, in addition to the five bunk beds in the loft. I took on that project myself, which, upon completion earned a big approving smile from my dad. Lilacs bloom below that new room, embracing the rear deck with an intoxicating allure in late spring. The cabin is furnished in a style best described as “vintage eclectic”. Lucky finds scooped up at our favorite thrift store, The Doves Nest , and the Art Queen in Joshua Tree and many visits to the Pasadena City College Swap Meet. Today, the Wilkie Cabin is one of Vacasa’s star rentals, available year-round to enjoy with your family and friends. ___ Mountain Cooking There’s nothing quite as satisfying as a hearty meal after a brisk hike or a day on the slopes. Not to mention the joy of sharing it with a group of hungry friends or family. A black iron skillet performs as rustic oven and serving platter, delivering sumptuous meals in the ultimate all-in-one vessel. Frittatas by morning, chicken thighs by night. Leave room for Apple strudel which can also be baked to perfection with this Iron Maiden. The mountains is the place to make memorable meals, but be careful what you wash it down with, as the high elevation can make for a mighty hangover. ___ Image courtesy of Friends of Big Bear Valley Rustic Charm The mountains have always possessed a unique charm that beckons even in harsh conditions, dating back to the scraggly gold rush prospectors who made their way up these rugged slopes on donkeys just to break rocks. Their hopes and hardships are documented at the Big Bear Valley Historical Museum located near the foot of Gold Mountain—the source of the dusty fuss in the 1800’s that earned it its name. Those feisty characters, bearing long beards and rumpled dreams weren’t the only adventurers contributing to Big Bear’s enduring rustic charm. More recently, two equally tenacious standouts have elevated the enthusiasm to new heights. Meet Jackie and Shadow , two bald eagles who winter in their meticulously constructed treetop roost. Their daily routine is streamed 24/7 via “nest cam ” from its secret location high above the lake. ___ Dining "Out" at The Pines Lakefront Pizza and beer taste better outside. Looks better too, backlit in the crisp mountain light, with the lake gently waving at you and your fellow patio partiers. The Pines Lakefront is my favorite daytime dining spot with its 180 view, and arrival options by car or by boat. I know which method I prefer, but by whichever conveyance, this sunny beer-on-tap terrace is a lovely place for a mile-high lunch alfresco. ___ Hiking Trails: #1: Castle Rock The most visually-dramatic and physically-challenging of Big Bear’s wondrous trails, Castle Rock indeed lives up to its lofty name. A 500ft elevation climb eventually levels off with energy left to claim the castle as yours, (along with myriad other hikers) taking in the stunning lake-and-forest panorama from this mountaintop kingdom-of-stone-giants. Massive boulders are the trail’s resident escorts all the way up, culminating in the royal cluster that forms the “castle”. Parking is a precarious challenge along busy Hwy 38, but Big Bear is wisely constructing a dedicated parking area, soon providing safe and convenient trail access. ___ Hiking Trails #2: Pebble Plains Eastward from the fray of Big Bear Lake Village is a little known but well loved series of sweet trails spanning the untouched forest between Moonridge and Big Bear City named Pebble Plains Preserve. Choose the easy paths that wind along the seasonal Saw Mill Creek, or the gentle climbs that reach Lookout Point for a 360 view of the whole valley. (Or do both!) Pebble Plains is so named for the quartzite pebbles that were pushed to the surface of the clay soil in the Pleistocene age. The preserve proudly protects native prehistoric botanicals, including tiny ground-cover flowers, each no bigger than dots of confetti. ___ Hiking Trails #3: Woodland Interpretive Loop This trail gets our vote for the most charming and varied trail in Big Bear. Good for all ages and staminas. Pets too, (safely on a leash). The name “Interpretive“ references sequentially numbered points of interest with related descriptions about the types of trees, rocks, and wildlife. Along the way, the terrain and plant life changes, becoming more interesting and dramatic with each turn. Views of the lake are framed in redwood, oak and pine as if art directed. Impressive outcroppings of boulders stand like sculpture, equal in majesty to Castlerock Trail across the lake to the west but far easier to access. By the time, you complete the trail loop you’ll know a little more about the forest —grateful for the beauty it shared. ___ TIME BANDIT Pirate Ship This 1/3rd scale replica of a Spanish Galleon playfully plunders Big Bear Lake, leading daily tours from the far east shore to wild west end. Giggling passengers see the lake from a unique perspective, obscured by the ultimate pirate fashion accessory, the eye patch. Built by a father and his son in their back yard in the 1960’s, the ship eventually made its way to Hollywood, as one does, landing a starring role in the movie “Time Bandit”, (hence her name). But glamour fades, and duty calls, so, after some time idling in various So Cal ports o’ call, she scaled the mountain to her lofty new birth in Big Bear. At elevation 6,752 ft above sea level, these salty scalawags are certainly the world’s most high-flying pirates! ___ Big Bear Alpine Zoo Imagine a rustic peaceable kingdom teaming with adorable animals, each in various stages of recovery from the cruelties of the modern world. Such is the playful and caring safety zone of Big Bear’s Alpine Zoo, “a rehabilitation facility offering injured and orphaned wild animals a 2nd chance”. The majority of animals successfully rehabilitated here are released back into their native environment! Those that remain on exhibit are either too injured or “imprinted by humans” to care for themselves in the wild. This wonderful refuge first opened its doors in 1959 after a devastating wildfire the San Bernardino National Forest displaced many native animals. The zoo is currently home to mammals, birds, and reptiles representing over 85 species. Open daily from 10am - 4pm. ___ Big Bear Discovery Center Nestled on a gentle hill on the North Shore of Big Bear Lake is a wonderful facility where weekly forest-awareness programs and eco-tours take place. Even some concerts, creative theater productions, and nighttime interpretive programs play out in the outdoor amphitheater. Inside there’s fantastic taxidermy of the true locals who call the San Bernardino National Forest “home”. Bears, coyotes, squirrels and birds, are each preserved in motionless poses to appreciate in great detail. And then there’s the merch! Impeccable Smokey the Bear plush toys, scarfs, t-shirts, hats, and, importantly, your Forest Adventure Pass that grants easy, worry-free parking at all the sights. ___ The Night Sky Stars, planets and constellations dazzle overhead in the pitch blackness, pointing the way to infinite possibilities. In this clear air, it all looks so close. The tall pine trees reach up as if to touch the tantalizing twinkle, but even at their height, this nighttime treasure is safely secure, a zillion miles away. Big Bear’s town leadership encourages residents and guests to turn off unneeded outdoor lighting at night so that all may see how truly amazing this sky full of stars is. Nothing like the few we see from the city with Mars, Venus and the North Star struggling to be seen through the muck. No, this is more like glitter and sugar poured onto black velvet. The star-chocked Milky Way galaxy looks like a cirrus cloud floating across the universe. When I was a kid in the 60’s, we would come up to Big Bear for Christmas, aluminum tree in tow with its turquoise teardrop ornaments, and colored pinwheel spotlight. Quite the contrast with a forest of real Christmas trees just outside. My mom liked to attend Christmas eve service at the nearby church, but one year my dad asked if we’d like to see his church. This came as a surprise because, on most Sundays he’d prefer to convene a kids’ pizza party than be confined to a church pew. He described “soaring pillars and a grand, domed ceiling, aglow with lights lit by God herself.” Excitedly, we followed him up the snowy trail, zig-zagging through the trees until we came to a wide clearing carpeted wall-to-wall in snow. I looked in all directions for the great cathedral, expecting to see a looming Notre Dame or the towers of La Segrada Familia, but instead there was just us. Dad said “This is my church”. We pondered each others’ puzzled faces. “Look up at that ceiling!” he said, his head reclined all the way back on his shoulders. Indeed the sky was like a vast dome with more twinkling “lights”, er stars than we’d ever imagined. Sturdy “columns” of pine trees lined the perimeter like a Greek temple. “In this church, your prayers are heard more clearly because you’re nearer to god.” he offered. We all stood there looking up, wide-eyed with mouths agape like a silent choir. He added, “And who do you think built it?” ___ Image courtesy of bigbearmountainresort.com Big Bear, by Season Every visit here feels like a different place, as the respective seasons redefine the landscape. Like four resort towns in one, winter, spring, summer and fall each uniquely affects the wonder that is Big Bear. WINTER arrives outfitted in boots, caps and mittens as Big Bear is blanketed in rolling folds of snow. Skiers and snowboarders enjoy breathless downhill runs and breathtaking ski lift views, repeated all day at Snow Summit and Bear Mountain . When it doesn’t snow, the resorts make their own, so the story plays out the same, except without the need for tire chains! For those of us who don’t feel at home on a frozen incline, there’s plenty of level ground in Big Bear Valley for us to make snow angels and catch snow flakes. By evening, the nearby Village beckons, its shops, restaurants and sidewalk fire rings all aglow in the twilight. Then it’s back to the cabin for hot chocolate and s’mores. In the morning, an early walk is enveloped in the serene silence of falling snow. SPRING comes with a colorful bouquet, nudging the snow to let go so that the show may begin. A rustic ballet of purple sage and pink cactus performs in full bloom. Lilacs scent the forest as cotton ball clouds festoon the sky. Silver-tailed squirrels scurry to the beat of the Woodpecker’s hammer. Gangs of tiny Mountain Chickadees pop their heads into pockets of snow like kids searching for snacks in the fridge. Walk along the meadow at Juniper Point , hike the Pebble Plains , do some thrift shopping at The Doves Nest and dine by the fire at the Captain’s Anchorage . Images courtesy of bigbearmountainresort.com SUMMER invites athletes and amateurs to cut loose in a dizzying array of outdoor activities. Mountain bikers descend the same black diamond runs that they roared down just six months earlier on skis and snowboards. (Fun fact: The US Olympic team trained here for the ‘64 Games in Mexico City to prepare for similarly-thin air!) For those who prefer a bike ride where the scenery isn’t a blur can try an easy e-bike ride along the north shore’s Alpine Pedal Path . Hikers have many trails to choose from, each unique in its wooded topography. Rent a boat and spend a blissful day on the lake, or let a pirate show you how it’s done. (See Pirate Ship above). You’ll find the Big Bear Alpine Zoo in full swing, and the Mine Shaft Coaster at full tilt. Discover how it all started at the Historical Museum , or simply SHOP! The Village is the “height” of retail therapy. FALL is a study of contrasts here in the mountains. The way golden oak leaves seem to catch all the sunlight against the forest green, assisted by swaying yellow Poplars, their leaves shimmering like coins. The air is crisp, and on the move, threading through a trillion pine needles holding fast to their branches like a gusty bronco ride. The forest is desert-dry now, having willed all moisture to its nearest kin, the summer. But that generosity paid off handsomely–in gold. For the visitor, the empty hiking trails are magical in the cool of the afternoon. The light slanting in lower as the days get shorter. Warmly dressed boaters may find they have the lake to themselves to skim across at full throttle. And, of course, there’s The Village , serving seasonal meals and tapping a cavalcade of craft beers. No matter which season , you’ll want to extend your stay, or book ahead for the next one. A wide variety of lodging options await, from sprawling hotels to snug cabins, (such as the aforementioned Wilkie Cabin !) ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Visiting Portugal is like finding a wonderful, affordable bottle of wine. It quickly becomes a new favorite, pouring on the charm from the verdant Douro Valley vineyards in the north, to the bright southern beaches of the Algarve. Discover the country that launched the very meaning of exploration. PORTUGAL Visiting Portugal is like finding a wonderful, affordable bottle of wine. It quickly becomes a new favorite, pouring on the charm from the verdant Douro Valley vineyards in the north, to the bright southern beaches of the Algarve. Discover the country that launched the very meaning of exploration. ALGARVE Glazed in the Light of Centuries Past COIMBRA The "Oxford" of Portugal DOURO RIVER Beauty and Effervescence of Wine Country ÉVORA A Historic Village LISBON Explore the Wonder of this Worldly City PORTO Youthful Spirit Meets an Ancient Past SINTRA A Stunning Storybook Town

Like pearls on an elegant chain, each Hawaiian island glows with unique luster that took ages to form. 8,000 ocean miles from the US mainland, it is hard to grasp that these ruggedly lush islands are part of the United States. A state of incredible natural beauty, that rose from the sea to form its own world. HAWAII Like pearls on an elegant chain, each Hawaiian island glows with unique luster that took ages to form. 8,000 ocean miles from the US mainland, it is hard to grasp that these ruggedly lush islands are part of the United States. A state of incredible natural beauty, that rose from the sea to form its own world. A paradise that eluded discovery until Captain Cook approached its shores in 1778. In its modern incarnation, Hawaii honors its heritage and native language with “talk story” teachings, and blooms anew with the spirit of aloha. KAUAI The Garden Isle OAHU The Gathering Place HAWAII ISLAND (Coming Soon) MAUI (Coming Soon)

Évora has everything one could ask for in a historic village, from an intimate chapel with human bones as the interior design theme, to a grand cathedral where one may take a walk on the roof. AND the columns of a Roman temple standing sentry at the very center of town. ÉVORA, PORTUGAL Évora has everything one could ask for in a historic village, from an intimate chapel with human bones as the interior design theme, to a grand cathedral where one may take a walk on the roof. AND the columns of a Roman temple standing sentry at the very center of town. The Road to Ruins Ham and cheese with a temple on the side. The Roman Temple of Évora maintains its timeless stand atop this inland Portuguese town, where locals and visitors traverse its cobbled roads to ruins. Évora is home to monumental Roman archeology, soaring cathedrals, small shops and the inevitable lunch at an outdoor cafe in the shade of centuries past. ___ Gothic Glow A fortified church dating back to 1186, Évora Cathedral is the largest in Portugal. Its cloister, added in 1325 invites a climb to the rooftop where its tapering roofline feels like a bridge to somewhere. Lined with castle-style battlements, the roof provided a 360 degree defense from the highest point of this hilltop city. Portals that today offer a peaceful panorama of the entirety of Évora and beyond. ___ Interior Design to Die For The Chapel of Bones was built by Franciscan monks in the late 16th century, tasked with relocating human remains from cemeteries around Évora due to the high value of land. Hence a rethinking of cemetery internment. Simultaneously, these enterprising monks reimagined interior design for churches, festooning the surfaces with all things skeletal. They topped it off with an ominous greeting above the door: “Nós ossos que aqui estamos, pelos vossos esperamos,” or: “We bones, are here, waiting for yours.” They also offered a traveler advisory, inscribed on one of the bony pillars: “Where are you going in such a hurry, traveler? Stop, for the sake of your journey. For the more you pause, the further on your journey you will be.” ___ Stonehenge’s Southern Sister The Cromlech of the Almendres is the Stonehenge of Portugal and one of the largest megalithic stone circles in Europe. Positioned on an east-facing axis, at sunrise it aligns to the spring and autumn equinoxes. On those dates, when the day and night is of equal length, the sun and moon rise at the same point on the monument’s principal stones, including the imposing Menhir dos Almendres, rising four phallic meters towards the stars. Located without fanfare in the middle of a cork tree forest, this monumental site is unfenced, free and open 24/7. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Our top five favorite things to do in this bustling city of Tokyo, Japan. 1 The Okura Hotel Lobby This triumph of Japanese mid-century design, recently lost to demolition was recreated in a new high rise patterned after the original hotel. A project overseen by the son of the original architect, Yoshiro Taniguchi. TOKYO, JAPAN 2 Tokyo Bookstores Grand spaces with shelves vaulting upward to the sky, or tiny coves of lovingly curated literature. Featured: Ginza Tsutaya Books TOKYO, JAPAN 3 Main Bar Brilliant A MadMen setting perfectly preserved inside an otherwise unremarkable hotel. Crisp cocktails crafted with artisanal precision by buttoned-down bartenders straight out of a Stanley Kubrick film. TOKYO, JAPAN 4 Udatsu Sushi Gorgeous dinner served on ceramics by Jenny Sharaf (too fun and too talented) — per the ever fabulous David Lee Davis . TOKYO, JAPAN 5 Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Center This wonderful shop-lined area of Old Tokyo is now anchored with a fantastic modern wood facade visitors center. Inside the staff is incredibly helpful, including hand-drawn maps to vintage kimono boutiques and Japanese vinyl stores. TOKYO, JAPAN Back FIVE FAVES Next

A curated list of what not to miss. This is The City of Lights, not just because of its nighttime glow, but because of the illumination it brings to one’s heart and mind. PARIS, FRANCE A curated list of what not to miss. This is The City of Lights, not just because of its nighttime glow, but because of the illumination it brings to one’s heart and mind. FIVE FAVES / PARIS Musée Rodin If there’s one tip I can confidently impart to those visiting (or residing in) Paris it is the Musée Rodin at sundown, just before they close for the day. Sunlight pours like Viognier through the tall windows, glazing the walls with diagonal stripes, while draping the bare musculature of Rodin’s subjects in form-fitting couture light. The storied residence of sculptor Auguste Rodin is veiled in a lace of shadows as late sunlight sketches fleeting patterns across the room. Faces that the artist suspended in time a hundred years ago look away as the sun finds a place to rest in the garden until tomorrow. ___ Parc de la Villette Architect Bernard Tschumi designed the Parc de la Villette, with the intention of creating “a space that exists in a vacuum”, something without historical precedent, to allow for the existence of a “non-place” based on “culture” rather than “nature.” The design of the park is a groundbreaking example of architectural deconstructivism. “By allowing visitors to experience the architecture of the park within this constructed vacuum, the time and activities that take place in that space begin to acquire a more vivid and authentic nature.” In simpler terms, it’s big, open and not at all structured like the Parisian parks of old. La Géode in the Sciences Center is an otherworldly mirrored dome housing an Omnimax theatre. ___ Paris Philharmonic Designed by Jean Nouvel, the new home of the Paris Philharmonic is renowned for its near perfect acoustics. The convulsing metallic exterior with interlocking MC Escher-esque patterns looks alive in the changing daylight and luminous at night. It is one of several civic music facilities located within Parc de la Villette . ___ Crepes as Art In the right hands, crepes become “origami”. Gently flipped and folded, a paper-thin circle of buckwheat becomes sculptural rapture, be it savory or sweet. This artwork also serves as sustenance for those seeking rest and replenishment midway up the steep hillside climb to Sacré Coeur. I recommend one such haven from those unforgiving stairs, where works of creperie art are rendered daily: Rozell Café & Creperie , Montmartre. ___ Pinault Collection Presented in the rotunda of the reimagined Bourse de Commerce , a group of monumental sculptures composed of wax, each with candles inside are lit on the first day of the exhibition. As the candles melt, the sculptures gradually disintegrate, sending faces, arms and other appendices crashing to the gallery floor, which, in turn become part of the exhibit. The renovated space is itself a work of art by Japanese architect Tadao Ando that is nothing short of spectacular. Multiple galleries now ring the 1800’s building in modern art, forming the latest must-see art venue in Paris. Untitled (2011) by Swiss artist Urs Fischer ___ Le Louvre If the sky were not dark you’d swear it was daylight. Such is the ambiance of an evening in the twin courtyards of Le Louvre . A glow that takes your breath away when stepping through the arched gateways into this sanctum of light. Cellos and flutes resonate in the open corridors, played by lone musicians hoping that a passerby’s euros will alight upon their performance. ___ Morning Light in St. Germain Saint Germain des Prés is a neighborhood that connotes masterpiece scenes of the Left Bank. The obsession of every self guided art tour of Paris. Where poets, artists and philosophers famously conversed at Café Flore over the roar of possibilities. Yet, here inside the church, a centuries old stillness is anointed in the colors of stained glass. A reverence so hushed one can almost hear the candles fluttering, or the prayers for which they burn. The brilliant author and musician, Patti Smith was recently in Paris on tour with her reunited band and posted a brief description of her morning walk: “I lit candles in the St Germain church for the children of the world, and then went to say hello to Picasso’s tribute to his friend, the poet Apollinaire, that beautiful head of Dora Maar (in the rear garden of the church) near Café de Flore.” Ah, a morning inspired by Patti Smith here where Sartre and Camus once philosophized over coffee in the fabled Left Bank of Paris. ___ Le Musée d’Orsay France has a love of art, and walks the walk to support it. In 1975, it was determined that a new museum was needed to represent the arts from the second half of the 19th century. At the same time, a retired Beaux-Arts train station was about to be demolished when visionary preservationists spoke up. Et voilà, the proposed museum and the rescued “gare” became one. Today, Le Musée d’Orsay is one of the world’s most inspired art spaces, housing artworks so famous and fabulous it weakens the knees. But its crescendo is the great clock window on the fifth floor. As cinematic and startling as a Hitchcock storyboard, this watch-work window provides the ultimate photo location and a sweeping view from the Seine to Sacré Coeur. ___ Le Centre Pompidou In making one’s way through the Marais neighborhood in Paris, the narrow stone streets suddenly widen like gates opening onto a fanciful world of color and form as Le Centre Pompidou comes into view. Renzo Piano’s early and revolutionary work literally turned architecture inside out by placing the traditionally hidden mechanical parts of a structure on the outside, forming what appears to be a wild bionic beast crouching in the middle of a 17th century village. A friendly beast though, with wonderful qualities. A generous art aficionado with room in his heart to share inspiration with architecture lovers on their pilgrimage to one of the great cultural venues of our time. ___ Le Jardin du Luxembourg With one’s first step into this grandest of all Paris gardens, Le Jardin du Luxembourg , the clammer of the 6th arrondissement quickly fades. The world itself, seems subdued into silence, except for the lapping of fountains. Ancient sculptures stand frozen in their moment, concealing centuries they’ve seen go by. Today, flowers overflow their urns while dreamers contort into green metal chairs, watching the daylight move across the formal garden like a lazy sundial. Images : The Medici Fountain was built in 1630 by Marie de’ Medici. "L'effort" bronze sculpture by Pierre Roche (1855-1922). Toy sailboats navigate the Central Fountain. 5 euros for 30 minutes of sailing. ___ INSPIRATION : A touch of France for your world at home. The French Boulle Desk My office is anchored in 19th century splendor from Napoleon III’s France, (but I acquired it in this century from Nickey/Kehoe ). This over-the-top desk is described in design parlance as “clean and classical, standing on fluted legs and decorated with brass inlays in motifs of the Louis XVI style.” Despite its “let them eat cake” appearance, the desk is actually quite utilitarian. Hidden within its deceivingly compact size, it boasts a massive single drawer that slips away unnoticed amid the frufru. Tucked into the tight quarters of a Paris hotel in St. Germain, a helpful concierge plans out one’s day in the 6th arrondissement, executed in exquisite detail on a petit, black lacquer Boulle desk with added privacy panel. Back at home, a Boulle desk functions as a sort of personal concierge, providing an inspired place for charting life between travels. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next