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A crisp mountain breeze swirls the meadow grasses at Juniper Point as the lake slumbers in the distance like a "big bear." Up here, at nearly 7,000ft the air is fresh and clean, the perfect environment to revitalize one’s senses, with lots of hikes for the body—and a zillion stars for the soul. BIG BEAR LAKE, CALIFORNIA A crisp mountain breeze swirls the meadow grasses at Juniper Point as the lake slumbers in the distance like a "big bear." Up here, at nearly 7,000ft the air is fresh and clean, the perfect environment to revitalize one’s senses, with lots of hikes for the body—and a zillion stars for the soul. FIVE FAVES / BIG BEAR LAKE The Lake Like most of the West, Big Bear Lake’s origin story is one of indigenous tribes thriving peacefully off the land, eventually getting pushed out by Spanish missionaries who themselves were squeezed out by white Americans relocating from the east. The original dam that created the lake was a stone wall, built in 1884 to collect water for agriculture at the foot of the mountain. A bigger dam was added in 1911 which doubled the size of the lake. The present dam is a graceful but sturdy refurbishment of the 1911 multiple arch design. It provides for the 10 mile long sun dappled lake we love today. ___ Boulder Bay As its name suggests, this tranquil inlet is bookended by boulders. Not dinosaur-egg size, these are the size of three story homes—and there’s some of those here too! Imagine having the pleasure (and the building permits, which were somehow granted) to enjoy this view from your living room 24/7! But rest assured, the rest of us can enjoy an equally fantastic panorama from Boulder Bay Park, punctuated by tall pines and more boulders. There’s a gazebo with tables to shade your picnic from the sun and plenty of camera-ready benches for lakeside photo ops. The water in the inner bay is like a mirror making the boulders appear to float like fantasy castles. Slip a kayak into the moment and glide along. You can rent them right next-door at Big Bear Lake Kayaks , in any color of the rainbow. ___ Juniper Point This north lakeshore paradise off Hwy 18 is perhaps the most stunning place in all of Big Bear. Here the sparkling lake is greeted by a sweeping meadow, outlined with Ponderosa Pines and twisting Juniper trees. Spring-fed creeks lay almost hidden in the tall grasses, seen only when crossing over wooden footpath bridges. At mid-meadow, the view deserves a movie-score crescendo with the deep blue lake underlining a vast mountain diorama, including Snow Summit’s ski runs, scribed upon the green hillsides like Japanese calligraphy. Flocks of birds soar, following their appointed leader along the water’s edge, then banking right to survey the food options along the south shore. Parking is easy, but a forest Adventure Pass is advised, available at the Visitor’s Center and the Discovery Center. ___ SPOTLIGHT: The Wilkie Cabin This glowing midcentury mountain retreat was built on weekends by my father and uncle (Wilkie and Bob). They began construction when I was two and nailed the last board into place the year I turned 16. Fourteen years of hammering and sawing through the 1950s, ‘60s and ‘70s passed before their dream cabin was completed. It was originally designed as a two story cabin, but dad and Bob became enchanted with the new "A-frame" cabin designs introduced in the mid 60s. Soon these weekend warriors, armed with Skil saws and swear words added a beautiful A-frame loft. As kids, we’d roost up there, side-by-side in our sleeping bags, watching the night sky through the big pyramid-shaped window that points straight to the stars. Dad was never quite content with the notion that his work here was done. He sketched a concept for a dormer to be added on the backside of the roof, providing a 3rd bedroom, in addition to the five bunk beds in the loft. I took on that project myself, which, upon completion earned a big approving smile from my dad. Lilacs bloom below that new room, embracing the rear deck with an intoxicating allure in late spring. The cabin is furnished in a style best described as “vintage eclectic”. Lucky finds scooped up at our favorite thrift store, The Doves Nest , and the Art Queen in Joshua Tree and many visits to the Pasadena City College Swap Meet. Today, the Wilkie Cabin is one of Vacasa’s star rentals, available year-round to enjoy with your family and friends. ___ Mountain Cooking There’s nothing quite as satisfying as a hearty meal after a brisk hike or a day on the slopes. Not to mention the joy of sharing it with a group of hungry friends or family. A black iron skillet performs as rustic oven and serving platter, delivering sumptuous meals in the ultimate all-in-one vessel. Frittatas by morning, chicken thighs by night. Leave room for Apple strudel which can also be baked to perfection with this Iron Maiden. The mountains is the place to make memorable meals, but be careful what you wash it down with, as the high elevation can make for a mighty hangover. ___ Image courtesy of Friends of Big Bear Valley Rustic Charm The mountains have always possessed a unique charm that beckons even in harsh conditions, dating back to the scraggly gold rush prospectors who made their way up these rugged slopes on donkeys just to break rocks. Their hopes and hardships are documented at the Big Bear Valley Historical Museum located near the foot of Gold Mountain—the source of the dusty fuss in the 1800’s that earned it its name. Those feisty characters, bearing long beards and rumpled dreams weren’t the only adventurers contributing to Big Bear’s enduring rustic charm. More recently, two equally tenacious standouts have elevated the enthusiasm to new heights. Meet Jackie and Shadow , two bald eagles who winter in their meticulously constructed treetop roost. Their daily routine is streamed 24/7 via “nest cam ” from its secret location high above the lake. ___ Dining "Out" at The Pines Lakefront Pizza and beer taste better outside. Looks better too, backlit in the crisp mountain light, with the lake gently waving at you and your fellow patio partiers. The Pines Lakefront is my favorite daytime dining spot with its 180 view, and arrival options by car or by boat. I know which method I prefer, but by whichever conveyance, this sunny beer-on-tap terrace is a lovely place for a mile-high lunch alfresco. ___ Hiking Trails: #1: Castle Rock The most visually-dramatic and physically-challenging of Big Bear’s wondrous trails, Castle Rock indeed lives up to its lofty name. A 500ft elevation climb eventually levels off with energy left to claim the castle as yours, (along with myriad other hikers) taking in the stunning lake-and-forest panorama from this mountaintop kingdom-of-stone-giants. Massive boulders are the trail’s resident escorts all the way up, culminating in the royal cluster that forms the “castle”. Parking is a precarious challenge along busy Hwy 38, but Big Bear is wisely constructing a dedicated parking area, soon providing safe and convenient trail access. ___ Hiking Trails #2: Pebble Plains Eastward from the fray of Big Bear Lake Village is a little known but well loved series of sweet trails spanning the untouched forest between Moonridge and Big Bear City named Pebble Plains Preserve. Choose the easy paths that wind along the seasonal Saw Mill Creek, or the gentle climbs that reach Lookout Point for a 360 view of the whole valley. (Or do both!) Pebble Plains is so named for the quartzite pebbles that were pushed to the surface of the clay soil in the Pleistocene age. The preserve proudly protects native prehistoric botanicals, including tiny ground-cover flowers, each no bigger than dots of confetti. ___ Hiking Trails #3: Woodland Interpretive Loop This trail gets our vote for the most charming and varied trail in Big Bear. Good for all ages and staminas. Pets too, (safely on a leash). The name “Interpretive“ references sequentially numbered points of interest with related descriptions about the types of trees, rocks, and wildlife. Along the way, the terrain and plant life changes, becoming more interesting and dramatic with each turn. Views of the lake are framed in redwood, oak and pine as if art directed. Impressive outcroppings of boulders stand like sculpture, equal in majesty to Castlerock Trail across the lake to the west but far easier to access. By the time, you complete the trail loop you’ll know a little more about the forest —grateful for the beauty it shared. ___ TIME BANDIT Pirate Ship This 1/3rd scale replica of a Spanish Galleon playfully plunders Big Bear Lake, leading daily tours from the far east shore to wild west end. Giggling passengers see the lake from a unique perspective, obscured by the ultimate pirate fashion accessory, the eye patch. Built by a father and his son in their back yard in the 1960’s, the ship eventually made its way to Hollywood, as one does, landing a starring role in the movie “Time Bandit”, (hence her name). But glamour fades, and duty calls, so, after some time idling in various So Cal ports o’ call, she scaled the mountain to her lofty new birth in Big Bear. At elevation 6,752 ft above sea level, these salty scalawags are certainly the world’s most high-flying pirates! ___ Big Bear Alpine Zoo Imagine a rustic peaceable kingdom teaming with adorable animals, each in various stages of recovery from the cruelties of the modern world. Such is the playful and caring safety zone of Big Bear’s Alpine Zoo, “a rehabilitation facility offering injured and orphaned wild animals a 2nd chance”. The majority of animals successfully rehabilitated here are released back into their native environment! Those that remain on exhibit are either too injured or “imprinted by humans” to care for themselves in the wild. This wonderful refuge first opened its doors in 1959 after a devastating wildfire the San Bernardino National Forest displaced many native animals. The zoo is currently home to mammals, birds, and reptiles representing over 85 species. Open daily from 10am - 4pm. ___ Big Bear Discovery Center Nestled on a gentle hill on the North Shore of Big Bear Lake is a wonderful facility where weekly forest-awareness programs and eco-tours take place. Even some concerts, creative theater productions, and nighttime interpretive programs play out in the outdoor amphitheater. Inside there’s fantastic taxidermy of the true locals who call the San Bernardino National Forest “home”. Bears, coyotes, squirrels and birds, are each preserved in motionless poses to appreciate in great detail. And then there’s the merch! Impeccable Smokey the Bear plush toys, scarfs, t-shirts, hats, and, importantly, your Forest Adventure Pass that grants easy, worry-free parking at all the sights. ___ The Night Sky Stars, planets and constellations dazzle overhead in the pitch blackness, pointing the way to infinite possibilities. In this clear air, it all looks so close. The tall pine trees reach up as if to touch the tantalizing twinkle, but even at their height, this nighttime treasure is safely secure, a zillion miles away. Big Bear’s town leadership encourages residents and guests to turn off unneeded outdoor lighting at night so that all may see how truly amazing this sky full of stars is. Nothing like the few we see from the city with Mars, Venus and the North Star struggling to be seen through the muck. No, this is more like glitter and sugar poured onto black velvet. The star-chocked Milky Way galaxy looks like a cirrus cloud floating across the universe. When I was a kid in the 60’s, we would come up to Big Bear for Christmas, aluminum tree in tow with its turquoise teardrop ornaments, and colored pinwheel spotlight. Quite the contrast with a forest of real Christmas trees just outside. My mom liked to attend Christmas eve service at the nearby church, but one year my dad asked if we’d like to see his church. This came as a surprise because, on most Sundays he’d prefer to convene a kids’ pizza party than be confined to a church pew. He described “soaring pillars and a grand, domed ceiling, aglow with lights lit by God herself.” Excitedly, we followed him up the snowy trail, zig-zagging through the trees until we came to a wide clearing carpeted wall-to-wall in snow. I looked in all directions for the great cathedral, expecting to see a looming Notre Dame or the towers of La Segrada Familia, but instead there was just us. Dad said “This is my church”. We pondered each others’ puzzled faces. “Look up at that ceiling!” he said, his head reclined all the way back on his shoulders. Indeed the sky was like a vast dome with more twinkling “lights”, er stars than we’d ever imagined. Sturdy “columns” of pine trees lined the perimeter like a Greek temple. “In this church, your prayers are heard more clearly because you’re nearer to god.” he offered. We all stood there looking up, wide-eyed with mouths agape like a silent choir. He added, “And who do you think built it?” ___ Image courtesy of bigbearmountainresort.com Big Bear, by Season Every visit here feels like a different place, as the respective seasons redefine the landscape. Like four resort towns in one, winter, spring, summer and fall each uniquely affects the wonder that is Big Bear. WINTER arrives outfitted in boots, caps and mittens as Big Bear is blanketed in rolling folds of snow. Skiers and snowboarders enjoy breathless downhill runs and breathtaking ski lift views, repeated all day at Snow Summit and Bear Mountain . When it doesn’t snow, the resorts make their own, so the story plays out the same, except without the need for tire chains! For those of us who don’t feel at home on a frozen incline, there’s plenty of level ground in Big Bear Valley for us to make snow angels and catch snow flakes. By evening, the nearby Village beckons, its shops, restaurants and sidewalk fire rings all aglow in the twilight. Then it’s back to the cabin for hot chocolate and s’mores. In the morning, an early walk is enveloped in the serene silence of falling snow. SPRING comes with a colorful bouquet, nudging the snow to let go so that the show may begin. A rustic ballet of purple sage and pink cactus performs in full bloom. Lilacs scent the forest as cotton ball clouds festoon the sky. Silver-tailed squirrels scurry to the beat of the Woodpecker’s hammer. Gangs of tiny Mountain Chickadees pop their heads into pockets of snow like kids searching for snacks in the fridge. Walk along the meadow at Juniper Point , hike the Pebble Plains , do some thrift shopping at The Doves Nest and dine by the fire at the Captain’s Anchorage . Images courtesy of bigbearmountainresort.com SUMMER invites athletes and amateurs to cut loose in a dizzying array of outdoor activities. Mountain bikers descend the same black diamond runs that they roared down just six months earlier on skis and snowboards. (Fun fact: The US Olympic team trained here for the ‘64 Games in Mexico City to prepare for similarly-thin air!) For those who prefer a bike ride where the scenery isn’t a blur can try an easy e-bike ride along the north shore’s Alpine Pedal Path . Hikers have many trails to choose from, each unique in its wooded topography. Rent a boat and spend a blissful day on the lake, or let a pirate show you how it’s done. (See Pirate Ship above). You’ll find the Big Bear Alpine Zoo in full swing, and the Mine Shaft Coaster at full tilt. Discover how it all started at the Historical Museum , or simply SHOP! The Village is the “height” of retail therapy. FALL is a study of contrasts here in the mountains. The way golden oak leaves seem to catch all the sunlight against the forest green, assisted by swaying yellow Poplars, their leaves shimmering like coins. The air is crisp, and on the move, threading through a trillion pine needles holding fast to their branches like a gusty bronco ride. The forest is desert-dry now, having willed all moisture to its nearest kin, the summer. But that generosity paid off handsomely–in gold. For the visitor, the empty hiking trails are magical in the cool of the afternoon. The light slanting in lower as the days get shorter. Warmly dressed boaters may find they have the lake to themselves to skim across at full throttle. And, of course, there’s The Village , serving seasonal meals and tapping a cavalcade of craft beers. No matter which season , you’ll want to extend your stay, or book ahead for the next one. A wide variety of lodging options await, from sprawling hotels to snug cabins, (such as the aforementioned Wilkie Cabin !) ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Like a sampler box of each island, Oahu has Maui’s beaches, Kauai’s waterfalls, Lanai’s pineapple fields, Molokai’s mountains and Hawaii Island’s ancient relics, plus groundbreaking art, music, food, nightlife and of course, surfing. The only thing missing is an active volcano. OAHU, HAWAII Like a sampler box of each island, Oahu has Maui’s beaches, Kauai’s waterfalls, Lanai’s pineapple fields, Molokai’s mountains and Hawaii Island’s ancient relics, plus groundbreaking art, music, food, nightlife and of course, surfing. The only thing missing is an active volcano. FIVE FAVES / OAHU Surf Lore Oahu is known as the Gathering Place–and most gatherings come with surfboards. They are everywhere, in all colors and sizes. In Honolulu, shirtless surfers tote their prized accessory through luxury shopping centers along well-known shortcuts to the sea. Satisfied smiles and sandy toes return home after a morning of balancing atop unfurling waves powered by the pull of the moon. ___ Leahi & Makalei Beach Parks Almost hidden at the foot of Diamond Head are two oceanfront pocket parks so charming one wonders where the impressionist painters are. The lawn at Makalei Beach Park gives rise to yoga classes and meditation, while a little farther down Diamond Head Road lies Leahi Beach Park, where a stately vine-encased gazebo holds court at the seas’s edge. Down its salty steps at low tide, much is revealed in the receding surf. ___ Kaimana Beach If ever there was a “local’s” favorite beach, this is it. Home to all-day ohana picnics, morning paddle boarding, midday snorkeling, and the dreamiest of sunsets–and moon-sets, Kaimana Beach is warm and welcoming, like family. Sheltered by a reef that shreds the surf into a lake-like calm, a swim here ‘neath the swaying trade winds is (literally) an immersive sensory experience. ___ Kaimana Beach Hotel Arriving here feels like home, (assuming one’s home is a paradise of warm sand, shaded in brushstroke palm shadows, set to the rhythm of gentle waves and the occasional howl of a blender). Far from the frenzy of Waikiki, but close enough to walk to it, the Kaimana is perfectly located and right-sized, between the vast greenery of Kapiolani Park and the blue infinity of the Pacific. Simple rooms and a beloved beachside cafe tucked beneath a twisting Hau Tree. The same tree Robert Lewis Stephenson wrote poetry under in 1889. ___ Kapiolani Park Named after Queen Kapiolani, with Diamond Head forming its unmistakable crown, this great park nestles deep in the heart of Oahu locals. 300 acres of serenity located just east of Waikiki’s commotion. Expressive banyan trees generously canopy picnic areas, as manicured lawns host myriad activities. Kapiolani Park includes the Honolulu Zoo where Giraffes can be seen taking advantage of their height, peering over the perimeter fence at passersby below. ___ Shangri la Perched like a stately white seabird on a slab of black lava, Doris Duke’s Hawaiian estate is now a museum “dedicated to the furtherance and preservation of Islamic art”. In fact, the only museum dedicated exclusively to Islamic art in the United States, open to scholars, students and the public, as so directed in her will. Ms Duke, in her day the wealthiest woman in America, commissioned architect Marion Sims Wyeth, to realize a vision inspired by travels to Arabic countries, along with life and culture in Hawaii. Islamic architectural precision meets Hawaiian ease and openness. Quirky ingenuity also plays into the design with a massive glass livingroom door that, instead of sliding open, retracts into the floor—with a stop-setting at three feet high so she could enjoy the ocean breezes indoors while also keeping the dogs in. Tour tickets are available through the Honolulu Museum of Art . ___ Honolulu Museum of Art Perhaps the most satisfying art museum anywhere, this humble space, assembled around airy courtyards invites guests to enjoy its casual grace the way a favorite neighbor might welcome you in. A stunning permanent collection that celebrates the Hawaiian landscape and royal heritage forms the foundation for inspiring temporary exhibits and events. Not to mention the lovely alfresco cafe and extensive gift shop, themselves reason enough for a visit! ___ Downtown Inspirations Adding soul to state bureaucracy are some sculptural and architectural surprises in downtown HNL, amid the lawns of the state capital and Iolani palace. Noguchi’s Skygate (1977) is an imposing black steel “portal” linking the earth and cosmos, (or as Noguchi put it, “an evocation to the skies of Hawaii”). Its undulating form celebrates the twice-a-year phenomenon nicknamed “Lahaina Noon” where shadows normally cast by the sun vanish as the solar rays are angled straight down. Come see for yourself on May 26th, 12:28 pm, and on July 16th, 12:37 pm. Ever beautiful Queen Lilioukalani stands with “steadfast devotion in the hearts of her loyal people”. Fresh flowers are thoughtfully placed upon her likeness, an act of aloha that she appears to graciously offer in turn. The State Capitol rises like a modernist temple, its open-air architecture incorporating Hawaiian symbolic references to tall coconut palms, surging volcanoes, and the surrounding sea. –Between Beretania and King streets at Punchbowl Ave. ___ In the Pink The Royal Hawaiian Hotel opened in 1927 like a pink hibiscus bloom welcoming the sunrise. Today, as then, its windows frame the angular contours of Diamond Head and languid curve of Waikiki bay. Its pink walls the perfect complement to the turquoise surf. Built on the exact location in paradise where King Kamehameha slept and Queen Liliuokalani summered, “royal” is indeed its reality, but in family-style. Bellmen, bartenders and housekeepers exude “ohana”, some having worked at the hotel for decades. Join the sunrise salutation on the beach and find your aloha as you immerse in the gentle waves. And by all means, rehydrate at the Mai Tai Bar, saluting the sunset with Hawaii’s ultimate elixir. ___ Chinatown A gritty quirkiness is etched into the old storefronts and aged faces along these fading movie-set streets. Asian calligraphy flickers and sways beneath 1800’s overhangs that still shade the sidewalks. Fantastic vintage shops, lively restaurants, and the best prices on fragrant lei are found here. The best lei shops are Cindy’s and Tina’s. Single Double and Hound & Quail are world-class vintage stores selling delightfully kitschy local wares. Native Books is a treasured emporium of Hawaiian heritage and innovative crafts. As tiki bars go Skull & Crown is so unique you’ll need a reservation. Oʻahu’s favorite food truck has evolved into a destination Vietnamese restaurant here, The Pig & The Lady . CHINATOWN TIPS: Cindy’s Lei Shoppe Single Double GQ’s take on Single Double, Hawaii Hound & Quail Native Books Skull & Crown Trading Co. ___ Honolulu Botanical Gardens Eucalyptus trees in skintight camouflage stand tall like tent poles supporting the jungle canopy, while their long scissor-shaped leaves cut the afternoon sun to ribbons. Trails sidewind down to a creek that one can hear but not see in this dense showcase of Hawaiian flora. Each standout species is definitively labeled along paths of discovery in this, one of Honolulu’s five well-maintained but wildly-natural gardens. ___ The Art of Lei Hawaii’s floral gift of aloha is a thread that binds peace, love, honor and friendship. A petaled chain linking us to the honored traditions of Hawaiian ancestry. A lei represents love. Giving a lei is an offering of one’s love. For this reason, never throw away a lei, as it would suggest throwing away the love of the giver. Instead, return the lei to the earth by hanging it in a tree or burying it, or let it dry naturally and eventually place it onto a fire. May Day in Hawaii is Lei Day, honoring the custom of lei making with symbolism and pageantry. Each island joins in the celebration, represented in its official-color and flower: Hawaii: red, ohia lehua Maui: pink, lokelani Kahoolawe: gray or silver, hinahina Lanai: orange, kaunaoa Oahu: yellow or gold, ilima Molokai: green, kukui Kauai: purple, mokihana Niihau: white, pupu o Niihau shells Our two favorite lei shops can be found on the same quiet block of Maunakea Street in Chinatown. Cindy’s : 1034 Maunakea St. (808) 536-6538 Tina’s: 1136 Maunakea St. (808) 888-5310 ___ Allure of Diamond Head 19th century British mariners who came ashore at the foot of this now iconic mountain thought the sparkling calcite crystals in the sand were diamonds, hence the name. Its Hawaiian name is Leahi (brow of the tuna) in reference to the formation’s ridge line which resembles a dorsal fin. Stunning views of the Pacific Ocean and Honolulu reward one’s hike to the top of this 300,000-year old crater, the centerpiece of Hawaii's most popular State Park. ___ Diamond Head Community Gardens Diamond Head smiles down upon this sinless garden of Eden where ceramic Buddha’s and metal frogs frolic at the feet of bean stalks and stands of Swiss Chard. Neatly-arranged, beds of rich soil are tended to by their respective gardeners, each producing a stunning bounty of fruit, vegetables and flowers. Guests are welcomed to stroll through and admire–but not touch. Adjacent to Kapiolani park, one block south of Monsarrat Ave, between Paki and Leahi Avenues. ___ Local Eats (good and cheap) Island grocery store deli counters are as thrilling as seeing sea life through the widows at the Oahu Aquarium. The standout is Foodland stores, where thoughtfully prepared sushi and poke is made daily with the freshest fish at the most affordable prices. Small mom ‘n’ pop delis also crank out daily picnic plate lunches, featuring Ahi tuna rolls, Kalua pork, Lau Lau Chicken and much more. Among the best are Hawaii Sushi , Masa & Joyce and Waiahole Poi Factory , Diamond Head Market & Grill . ___ Kaimuki This delightfully eclectic neighborhood rests on the inland slope of Diamond Head. In the 1800’s, "Kai-moo-key" was King Kalakaua’s ostrich farm. Today, “ostrich”, might be found as a fabric pattern in several boutiques along Waialae Avenue, the main (but quirky) shopping corridor that cuts through the neighborhood. Creativity is a common chord resonating in Kaimuki, the boyhood home of revered Hawaiian musician, Israel Kamakawiwoole. Not to miss : The ever-scrumptious Mud Hen Water restaurant, the inventive and elegant Island Boy boutique , the mid-mod charm of Bean About Town coffee, and the vast and tasty Saturday Farmer’s Market at Kapiolani Community College. ___ KCC Farmer's Market Saturdays in Honolulu have added reason to celebrate the weekend with an amazing gathering of farmers, food trucks, bakers, florists, artists and healers known as the KCC Farmers Market. Nestled in the shaded parking lot of Kapiolani Community College, the combined superpowers of homegrown-Hawaii converge to trade their wares with an adoring public. Come early, it’s that good–and popular! ___ Tongg's Beach Towers These days, developers are required to build apartment and hotel towers at a responsible distance from the shore, but this eclectic collection of condos-in-paradise were built before those thoughtful state ordinances were introduced. Forgiving their shoreline proximity, each of these buildings at Tongg’s Beach, (where Kalakaua Ave meets Coconut Ave at the foot of Diamond Head), is a modernist marvel, designed by foremost architects of their day. Most notably, Vladimir Ossipoff , considered Hawaii’s Neutra, whose inventiveness and variety of styles is evident in many buildings on Oahu. Here, Ossipoff envisioned an Asian theatrical fantasy, complete with arched bridges dancing about like an over-caffeinated Kyoto temple. Ossipoff’s ultimate masterpiece is the Liljestrand House , a residence that seems to naturally emerge from its perch in the foothills high above Honolulu. One must reserve well ahead, but it’s worth the effort. ___ Waikiki Beach One might believe that Hawaiian gods poured sugar along this heavenly crescent to form the world’s most stunning beach. (The truth is, it’s civil engineers who, over time, have repurposed sand from nearby shoals–and faraway Manhattan Beach, CA in an effort to restore this 2 mile stretch of paradise). ___ In Hawaiian, Waikiki means spouting fresh water, for the springs and streams which fed the ancient wetlands here on the south shore of Oʻahu. In the 1800s, the grounds of Waikiki’s Royal Hawaiian Hotel once served as a retreat for Hawaiian royalty who surfed the local swells atop longboards. It was here that “Duke” earned his fame as the king of surfing. Also on this hallowed ground is the beautiful Royal Hawaiian Center, the crown jewel of retail and dining, with daily cultural performances set in its Royal Grove. Waikiki is indeed a wild contrast between glorious nature rolling in on turquoise waves and delirious shopping tugging on your wallet like a riptide. And that’s just by day! As evening arrives, slip on that new Fendi for sunset cocktails and truly great hula at House Without a Key, followed by dinner at Morimoto Asia. Then cap the night off with jazz at the Blue Note. Finally, you’ll want to kick off those shoes you just bought and walk back to your hotel with your toes in the sand. The Royal Hawaiian Hotel Royal Hawaiian Center House Without A Key Morimoto Asia Waikiki Blue Note Waikiki ___ Duke Paoa Kahanamoku He greets the dawn each day, offering warmth and aloha to the early sunlight headed straight for the beach like so many surfers. The sculpture of “DUKE” at Kalakaua & Uluniu avenues honors the ultimate surfer and Hawaiʻi’s first tourism icon. He introduced the term “aloha” to the world, always noting that it is much more than a greeting. The spirit of aloha. “Alo” means “face”, as in to “face one another”. “Ha” means breath, to “breathe kindness and compassion into the world”. Duke proved that every day of his life. Including one stormy day in 1925, off Newport Beach, CA when he rescued eight fishermen tossed from their capsized boat using just his hands and his surfboard to pull them from the roiling sea one by one. Such heroism stands eternal now in bronze, perpetually-laden with fresh Lei, embodying the spirit of aloha amid sidewalk passersby and Waikiki beachgoers, just as he did in life. ___ Riding the Oahu Railway The breeze rustles our hair as we speed along at a mighty 2 miles-per-hour. Patience is a virtue aboard this vintage train as it trudges up the coast towards its one whistle stop for ice cream. We can nearly spy our destination on the horizon as the converging tracks point like a compass needle to Ko Olina Station. At times our goal appears to move farther away despite the earnest huff and puff of the locomotive. But arrive we finally do, to the shaded lawns of this hand-created oasis amid the sun-baked hardscabble of Oahu’s western shore. Children wave their Black Sheep Cream cones as adults hail mai tais topped with lilikoi foam at Monkeypod Kitchen bar. Then it’s back on the rails for the reverse ride back to Ewa Beach where a toy train museum completes our adventure. We highly recommend booking seats on Parlor Car 64, the deluxe personal coach of railway founder, Benjamin Dillingham, resplendent in oak, mahogany and birds-eye maple decor and rattan seats, running every second-Sunday of the month. Oahu Railway Black Sheep Cream Co. Monkeypod Kitchen by Merriman ___ Byodo-In Temple A structure resplendent in a shade of red so loud one may feel it from afar. Or, perhaps that’s the sound of the three ton “bon-sho” brass bell ringing with repeated resonance like a mantra. We queue up to send a wish flying on a long log-on-a-rope that pounds into the side of the sacred bell, rendering a tone said to bring happiness, blessings, and a long life. The temple, a replica of a 1,000-year old Byodo-In Temple in Uji, Japan is set against the heaving green velvet curtain wall known as the Koolau mountains. The temple’s primary resident, Amida Buddha sits in golden splendor amid this hallowed fold in the Valley of the Temples Memorial Park, Kaneohe on the windward side of Oahu. ___ Pill Box Trail (aka: Kaiwa Trail) This is why God created all-terrain sneakers and Tevas. A heavenly 30-minute slippery slope that delivers hikers to a spectacular view of Lani Kai beach with its busty twin islands rising from an impossibly-turquoise sea as the languid windward coast stretches out in both directions, all poised against the wickedly jagged wall of the Koolau Mountains. Not to mention the two namesake WWII “pillbox” lookout bunkers to contemplate atop once you reach the heights. The Kaiwa trailhead is located in Lani Kai, on Kaelepulu Dr, opposite the Mid-Pacific Country Club. ___ KAILUA During the Obama era, I used to refer to Kailua as “paradise at the presidential level”, given the then president’s penchant for this perfect beach on his home island. In any era, this is perfection. Especially mornings, walking the dogs along the sugary-white crescent of sand from one end to the other—and back. Nico’s Kailua serves great meals and local music at the north end of town while Buzz’s Steak House tantalizes the south end with strong mai tais and a menu of favorites. Kailua Beach Park Nico's Kailua Buzz's Original Steak House ___ Kawela Bay A blissful Sunday drive around the entire island of Oahu is a day spent visiting every Hawaiian island, as Oahu is a sampler of all of them. Perhaps the best part of the drive is the least-known. The hidden pleasure of Kawela Bay, with its gentle surf and crescent beach. A fruit stand on the inland side of Kamehameha Hwy 38 marks the spot at Kawela Camp Rd, just west of Turtle Bay. Park on the roadside and slip through the official gap in the fence, then amble straight to the seashore under the haunted arms of ancient Banyan trees to the crystal blue bay. Stretch out your towel on the warm sand and ponder the years that have passed without you knowing of such tranquil beauty. ___ Drive-Through Paradise Hoomaluhia Botanical Garden is a drive-through paradise. Every pull-off along the tranquil roadway represents a unique tropical region from around the world. Leaves of every sort and size wave as we pass while crazy arrays of birds chirp and flutter. Known as "a peaceful refuge”, the park was designed to provide flood protection for Kaneohe, in perhaps the most artful work ever built by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. Even the restrooms and picnic pavilions blend in as modernist tributes to the natural surroundings. Hoomaluhia Botanical Garden ___ A Tale of Two Heiaus The Hawaiian Heiau is a place of worship from ancient times. Some were sacred religious complexes where rituals involving human or animal sacrifice and other ceremonies took place. Today, their geometric black lava ruins rest in reverent silence on beds of verdant grasses. KEAIWA HEIAU This kinder, gentler temple is believed to have life-giving powers where Hawaiian herb doctors once practiced, using select herbs grown in nearby gardens. PUU O MAHUKA HEIAU A massive shrine embossed on the landscape atop an high cliff, this, the largest Heiau on Oahu overlooks Waimea Bay and the abundant Waimea Valley. It’s torchlights served as a communications system with neighboring Kauai island. Top two images: Keaiwa Heiau Bottom image: Puu O Mahuka Heiau ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Islet in the Sun. Curled up on the shore like a curvaceous starlet, this arc of red and white sand is a sumptuous and cinematic dream come true. SVETI STEFAN, MONTENEGRO Islet in the Sun. Curled up on the shore like a curvaceous starlet, this arc of red and white sand is a sumptuous and cinematic dream come true. 15th Century Serenity The sand along this curve of the Montenegro coastline is a crunchy confetti in red, black and grey, ground to perfection through the ages by the Adriatic Sea. Sheltered in the calm beneath Sveti Stefan islet, the multicolored beach forms an irresistible bed for sunbathers. In the center of this idyll, a stone viaduct reaches out from the shore, providing passage to the tiny island that was once a fishing village, reincarnated today as an impeccable AMAN Hotel . ___ Photo by Aman Group Back DESTINATIONS Next

A travel journal exploring the personality of places, focusing on distinct destinations and curated highlights. A travel journal exploring distinct destinations and curated highlights—with more coming soon! Also see FIVE FAVES , our top five picks in the places we love. Explore from A-Z by CITY. ALGARVE, PORTUGAL BIG BEAR LAKE, CA BRITTANY, FRANCE CAVTAT, CROATIA COIMBRA, PORTUGAL DOURO RIVER, PORTUGAL DUBROVNIK, CROATIA EVORA, PORTUGAL HOLLYWOOD, CA, US KAUAI, HAWAII KOTOR, MONTENEGRO KYOTO, JAPAN LISBON, PORTUGAL MÉXICO CITY, MÉXICO NICE, FRANCE OAHU, HAWAII OMIS, CROATIA PARIS, FRANCE PORTO, PORTUGAL PROVENCE, FRANCE SINTRA, PORTUGAL SPLIT, PORTUGAL SVETI STEFAN, MONTENEGRO TAMARINDO, MEXICO TOKYO, JAPAN

Explore a medieval magical wonder. Behind the formidable walls of this ancient city, there is a sense of openness that feels quite contemporary. An architectural treasure so dramatic it could be its own opera stage—not to mention being the set of Game of Thrones! DUBROVNIK, CROATIA Explore a medieval magical wonder. Behind the formidable walls of this ancient city, there is a sense of openness that feels quite contemporary. An architectural treasure so dramatic it could be its own opera stage—not to mention being the set of Game of Thrones! Timeless Old Town A city in cosplay, this walled medieval village is subject to visiting throngs of Thrones fans taking over the stone streets like scenes from a zombie film. The best way to avoid the invasion of fandom and cruise ship fodder is to rise very early and be among the first through the gates. What greets you then is a freshly rinsed wonder, protected through the ages by a battlement wall that beckons a 360 stroll. The streets and plazas in the center are like candy, enticing the visitor to try one more shop or cafe before closing the box. ___ SPOTLIGHT: Lady PiPi Lady PiPi noted for its playfully pornographic sculpture out front, and it’s freshly grilled delights inside, this patio-under-a-grape-arbor restaurant is the only eatery one needs to know within the walled city. Whole fish sizzle over aromatic wood fires, dutifully attended to and beautifully served. If there’s a wait, it’s worth it, giving one added time to ponder the inspiration for the artwork that “bares” the name, “pipi”. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Our top five favorite things to do on the island of Oahu, Hawaii. 1 Honolulu Museum of Art One of our very favorite museums in the world. This humble space of courtyards and galleries hosts great artworks, an inspired gift shop and a dreamy open-air café, altogether the perfect museum experience. OAHU, HI 2 Diamond Head Beach A treasure of sparkling sand that inspired its name lay nearly hidden at the bare foot of Oahu’s iconic peak, just east of Waikiki. A haven for surfers, lovers and dreamers, accessed via a manicured trail at the Diamond Head Lighthouse. OAHU, HI 3 Chinatown Honolulu‘s most historic district is lined with great shops, funky bars, and unique dining. And, importantly, the most affordable, and fresh lei shops on the island. OAHU, HI 4 Nico's Pier 38 & Upstairs at Pier 38 The best chef in the Pacific, Nico serves up fresh-caught tuna (the daily fish auction is next door!) and a consistently award-winning burger among other greats. “Upstairs” features the finest local musicians, creative cocktails and elevated cuisine. OAHU, HI 5 Kaimana Beach Hotel A perfect boutique inn perched on the edge of paradise with palm trees hula dancing in the breeze outside your window. The hotel’s famous beachside Hau Tree Lanai restaurant serves island favorites beneath the same twist of tree branches where Robert Lewis Stevenson wrote poetry in 1888. OAHU, HI Back FIVE FAVES Next

Our top five favorite things to do in the wine country of Provence, France. 1 Colors of Roussillon French rosé in the form of buildings rather than bottles. Visiting the town is like rubbing shoulders with a French Expressionist's palette, its colors literally derived from the local hillsides. PROVENCE, FRANCE 2 Sipping Kir Royales in Aix-en-Provence The summer daylight hangs on well into happy hour as the "city of a thousand fountains" welcomes the evening. Plant yourself in the middle of it all, like an island in a bubbly stream. PROVENCE, FRANCE 3 Lacoste The Marquis de Sade once called it home. Pierre Cardin called it his , after buying up most of the village. Today, it stands as a stunning example of thoughtful preservation, education and culture. PROVENCE, FRANCE 4 Market Day in Lourmarin Morning light inches down ivy walls as vendors set up a truly great street market. Every Friday, a cavalcade of food, flowers, jewelry, art and antiques line the lovely lanes of Lourmarin. PROVENCE, FRANCE 5 The Flavors of Bonnieux Beautifully plated and wonderfully satiated, here, just one hilltop east of Lacoste. Discover the artful bounty that is Bonnieux, a 13th century papal village with palpably modern tastes. PROVENCE, FRANCE Back FIVE FAVES Next

Visiting Portugal is like finding a wonderful, affordable bottle of wine. It quickly becomes a new favorite, pouring on the charm from the verdant Douro Valley vineyards in the north, to the bright southern beaches of the Algarve. Discover the country that launched the very meaning of exploration. PORTUGAL Visiting Portugal is like finding a wonderful, affordable bottle of wine. It quickly becomes a new favorite, pouring on the charm from the verdant Douro Valley vineyards in the north, to the bright southern beaches of the Algarve. Discover the country that launched the very meaning of exploration. ALGARVE Glazed in the Light of Centuries Past COIMBRA The "Oxford" of Portugal DOURO RIVER Beauty and Effervescence of Wine Country ÉVORA A Historic Village LISBON Explore the Wonder of this Worldly City PORTO Youthful Spirit Meets an Ancient Past SINTRA A Stunning Storybook Town

The leading edge of America. A state of the Union shaped like a left-pointing arrow, much like its progressive mindset. Where the past is thoughtfully preserved and the future invented. Discover ancient redwoods as tall as the sky, beaches as blond as local surfers, deserts that stand-in for Mars, mountains shaped like dinosaur spines, and jewel box cites that sparkle like stars. CALIFORNIA The leading edge of America. A state of the Union shaped like a left-pointing arrow, much like its progressive mindset. Where the past is thoughtfully preserved and the future invented. Discover ancient redwoods as tall as the sky, beaches as blond as local surfers, deserts that stand-in for Mars, mountains shaped like dinosaur spines, and jewel box cites that sparkle like stars. BIG BEAR LAKE The Height of Rejuvenation HOLLYWOOD Where Dreams Rise Like Champagne Bubbles BEACHES (Coming Soon) CENTRAL COAST (Coming Soon) DESERT CITIES (Coming Soon) GREATER LOS ANGELES (Coming Soon) NORTHERN CA (Coming Soon)

Mystical and mythical, this rolling landscape reaches the roiling sea where history reigns with steadfast pride. The architecture of ancient times fully at home in the present. BRITTANY, FRANCE Mystical and mythical , this rolling landscape reaches the roiling sea where history reigns with steadfast pride. The architecture of ancient times fully at home in the present. Mont Saint-Michel One may spot this soaring pinnacle on the horizon well before reaching the sea that surrounds it at high tide. We first saw it rising above the inland corn fields, its spires reaching up as if to touch the last cloud of a clearing storm. Inside its fortress walls a tiny medieval town terraces upward to the Abbey that crowns the island like a tiara. The inspiration to build a cathedral in such a perilous place, atop a remote rock formation off the Normandy coast, came to Bishop Saint-Aubert in a recurrent dream in 708 AD, eventually realized in all its rustic majesty. We stayed the night on the island and witnessed the evening tide swallow up the vast sandbar below, along with the day’s messages etched by visitors. By sunrise, the sea had pulled back, revealing a blank slate ready for more sand scribes. The ancient stone walls warming now as the morning shadows retreat. ___ “All The Light We Cannot See” in St. Malo "Open your eyes and see what you can with them before they close forever." —from the novel, “All The Light We Cannot See” by Anthony Doerr, which takes place during the Nazi occupation of France, featuring a young blind girl, who flees war torn Paris to shelter with her uncle in St. Malo. This walled Medieval city on the northern shore of Brittany has endured loss beyond measure, but stands as a symbol of resilience. Bombed beyond recognition during World War II, it rose again to crown the coastline with slender spires, scalloped rooftops and fierce ramparts, all of which now house shops, restaurants and boulangeries, inviting a steady stream of curious visitors. ___ Night and Day in Dinan Rain-slicked cobblestones reflect the warm windows and lanterns of another age, paving a silver night in gold. In any light, Dinan is a hidden treasure in northwestern France, just upstream from St. Malo, at a bend on the Rance river. Incredible to think that this narrow waterfront was once a major port when trading vessels from England and Holland were compact-sized. By the 13th century, as ships grew larger, St Malo’s wide port was developed to take on the job —and the goods. Meanwhile, Dinan grew up gracefully behind stone fortifications, protecting her half-timbered Brittany beauty for future generations, like ours. The sun forces through a persistent rain as one mythical god tries to outdo the other, neither taking into account how easily a rainbow could steal their show. Nonetheless, the exchange continues, presenting village scenes of Dinan in contrasts of squinting brilliance and dampened shadows. Like a watercolor in progress, crisp edges of shops and churches meet the blurred wash of medieval alleyways, forming the image of a place stilled in time. ___ Taden Day Dream The town of Taden is so soft spoken on the map that one might miss it entirely if it weren’t for a dramatic widening of the Rance river at the foot of the village. A landmark easily mistaken for a lake, its calm, mirrored water reaches across the landscape beckoning boaters, kayakers, hikers and day dreamers. ___ Menhir (Stone) of Saint Samson Rising eight phallic meters above nondescript farmland is a granite Stonehenge-like loner, pitched at a 42 degree angle, its four sides aligned to the points of the compass. The nearest source of granite is 4km away, which means a lot of prehistoric muscle was employed to get it here. Archeologists surmise that this “menhir” marked the furthest point inland where the (then) highest tide would reach. Legend has it that if anyone pulls the stone out, seawater will come bubbling up and inundate all of France in a biblical-size flood. Best to look, but not pull! ___ Parc du Thabor, Rennes Rennes, the capital city of Brittany in northwestern France is a sunny college town with a perfect park at its center. The graceful rambles of Parc du Thabor trace the urban hillside, rendering each season into a changing exhibit of color, texture and form. This heart of Bretagne also serves as the main depot for the TGV high speed rail from Paris. >>All aboard! ___ Pointe du Grouin All roads in Britanny eventually reach a quaint town or a sweeping seashore. Both serve great food! At the craggy, end-of-the-earth looking Pointe de Grouin, the sea provides an alfresco bounty that brings out the locals as well as tourists. They depart united in delirious bliss, with some overachievers suffering a temporary food coma and/or sunstroke. But worth it! ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next