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  • NICE | Hither & Wander

    A sensual quality of life, matched only by its quality of light. Hence, it is home to the world's most famous Impressionist painters. NICE, FRANCE A sensual quality of life , matched only by its quality of light. Hence, being home to the world’s most famous Impressionist painters, lovers and dreamers. Promenade des Anglais “La Prom”, as it’s affectionately known to locals aligns with the 7 km arc of beach where France meets the Mediterranean in Nice. Well-healed Brits in the late 18th century took to wintering here and funded a paved walkway where they might comfortably “promenade” along the sea shore, hence “Promenade des Anglais”. Nowadays anyone from everywhere can appreciate La Prom, where a long walk makes time stand still. Palais de la Méditerranée is a treasured landmark along the seaside Promenade des Anglais. There’s a certain irony to constructing a grand casino in 1929, the year of the great US stock market crash. Indeed this casino on the French Côte d'Azur was built by a wealthy American. It later was designated a historic architectural landmark which saved its beloved facade from modernization. ___ A NICE Lunch on the Beach Nice, with i ts soft, seductive light drew artists such as Matisse, Chagall and Arman to its pebbled shores. Writers too. Nietzsche invested six consecutive winters in Nice, scribing “Thus Spoke Zarathustra”. Chekhov put the final touches on his play “Three Sisters” while living here. And then there are those who just come to hibernate under a white umbrella . Could there be anything more sublime than a lunch of ceviche and salads on the beach in the south of France? With your best friend. A handsome waiter. And French wine, of course. ___ Horizon Lines It is a line that always reads as level. Definitive and grounded, albeit a distant tumult of tides. The horizon is consistent no matter what shore we may see it from. Anywhere in the world, its reassuring balance looks the same. Not to be outdone, the sky here in Nice also brings on its game, sweeping across the steadfast sea in a dazzling glint of Côte d’Azur glamour. Spotlighting the unique and creative souls who are drawn to this line in the sand. ___ Nice. Moments. Strolling the streets of old town Nice becomes a simultaneous study of ancient and nouveau France. Contemporary life moves easily amid the old stone façades long frozen in time. Each era accommodating the other like a well coordinated stage play with diverse characters, cultures, ages and interests. ___ Eden en Nice An afternoon breeze slips through the sheer white curtains that catch shadows from the garden. The town of Nice itself is a garden. An Eden more about pears and champagne than apples. Temptation here is to stay in, when one’s momentary haven is a Belle Époque space such as this. See Airbnb link for Nice, France: “Lavish Garden Apt in Belle Epoque Listed Palace” . ___ Tête de Moine at Lavomatique Literally translated as “monk’s head”, this scrumptious fromage is spiral-grated off a small round of Alpine Swiss into a dreamy, brainy-looking flower, assembled one petal at a time into a most edible full bloom. Accompanied by the ubiquitous baguette and the essential wine du jour. Lavomatique : Address : 11 Rue du Pont Vieux, 06300 Nice, France Phone : +33 4 93 55 54 18 ___ A Night in Nice The moon is full and creepy beautiful as it slips over the rooftops like a thief, stealing its way into the clouds. The sky is silent and monochrome, but the town is aglow and crackling in all the colors of a holiday hearth. Pull up a chair here on a cobbled old town street and warm the night with some red wine and the spark of where tomorrow may lead. ___ SPOTLIGHT: La Fondation Maeght, Saint-Paul de Vence (16 miles north of Nice) In the late 1950’s two visionary art dealers dreamed of forming an arts collective with some of the world’s most talented painters and sculptors. You know, like building a tree house with friends. In this case, the friends were Georges Braque, Joan Miró and Alberto Giacometti. La Fondation Maeght opened in 1964, the dream child of Aimé and Marguerite Maeght crowning a wooded hillside just north of Nice with light filled galleries and colorful outdoor sculptures. Today, France’s very first private art institution stands like a creative acropolis high above the Côte d'Azur, welcoming art lovers and dreamers. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

  • FIVE FAVES / LISBON | Hither & Wander

    Our top five favorite things to do in this welcoming, worldly city of Lisbon, Portugal. 1 Ponto Final Tablecloths and plates the color of the sun are set on a high dock at the edge of the River Tejo, with a winning view so stunning that one must linger past sunset to witness Lisbon aglow after dark. LISBON, PORTUGAL 2 Museum of Art, Architecture & Technology An amazing riverfront complex of old and new architecture, including a repurposed 1800's power station and a sweeping exhibition space that looks as if it may take flight. LISBON, PORTUGAL 3 The Church Without a Roof Once Lisbon's largest cathedral, (until the earthquake of 1775), the ruins of Carmo Convent stand in testament to the strength of gothic design, with its vaulted arches still rising to the heavens. LISBON, PORTUGAL 4 The Lisboans Hotel Scandinavian design meets Portuguese charm. Sun-filled guest rooms invite views of terra-cotta rooftops as the morning arrives with house pastries, coffee and juice at your door. LISBON, PORTUGAL 5 Pastéis de Belém Portugal's national pastry, Pastéis de Nata hails from the historic Belém district, where monks first cooked up the beloved confection in a monastery nearby. But this namesake bakery is its true home. LISBON, PORTUGAL Back FIVE FAVES Next

  • DESTINATIONS | Hither & Wander

    A travel journal exploring the personality of places, focusing on distinct destinations and curated highlights. A travel journal exploring distinct destinations and curated highlights—with more coming soon! Also see FIVE FAVES , our top five picks in the places we love. Explore from A-Z by CITY. ALGARVE, PORTUGAL BIG BEAR LAKE, CA BRITTANY, FRANCE CAVTAT, CROATIA COIMBRA, PORTUGAL DOURO RIVER, PORTUGAL DUBROVNIK, CROATIA EVORA, PORTUGAL HOLLYWOOD, CA, US KAUAI, HAWAII KOTOR, MONTENEGRO KYOTO, JAPAN LISBON, PORTUGAL MÉXICO CITY, MÉXICO NICE, FRANCE OAHU, HAWAII OMIS, CROATIA PARIS, FRANCE PORTO, PORTUGAL PROVENCE, FRANCE SINTRA, PORTUGAL SPLIT, PORTUGAL SVETI STEFAN, MONTENEGRO TAMARINDO, MEXICO TOKYO, JAPAN

  • TAMARINDO | Hither & Wander

    After a rough-hewn ride in from the Manzanillo (ZLO) airport, the sweeping ocean vistas and stunning architectural forms of the Four Seasons Tamarindo resort suddenly come into view, making an unforgettable impression on the senses. Like finding a black diamond in the sand, this modernist stone, glass and concrete temple dazzles on every level. TAMARINDO, MEXICO After a rough-hewn ride in from the Manzanillo (ZLO) airport, the sweeping ocean vistas and stunning architectural forms of the Four Seasons Tamarindo resort suddenly come into view, making an unforgettable impression on the senses. Like finding a black diamond in the sand, this modernist stone, glass and concrete temple dazzles on every level. Costalegre - Coast of Joy Costalegre is a magical, hidden region of Jalisco, Mexico. A perfect stretch of unspoiled coastline, south of Puerto Vallarta, revered for its pristine beauty, rugged landscapes and peaceful bliss. Five of Mexico’s most respected design firms, together envisioned a resort that blends seamlessly into the peninsula’s tranquility. Nestled within a private nature reserve, Tamarindo is a sanctuary that honors Mexico’s rich cultural traditions, and provides guests with immersive experiences that delight and enlighten. Or, just immerse in the pool and sip on some of the creative achievements from the bar! ___ An Unforgettable Entrance The lobby of the Four Seasons Tamarindo seems to defy gravity as the massive concrete structure hovers like a hummingbird, cantilevered over the landscape—while also blending into it. Modernist shapes extend like wings while infinity pools flutter in concert with the sea. Each time entering this open air gateway, one is reminded of that breathtaking moment upon first arrival. An epiphany repeated throughout one’s stay. ___ Swim-up Fantasy Azure pools seem to meld with the matching sea. Like one’s own ocean, lapping right up to the edge of your lounger. Terraces trace the hillside as it ambles down to the beach, each level defined with pools so inviting that you may never make it to the sand. The sunlight sparkles on the water like sequins as one hears the sea whisper “may I get you a margarita?”. Or was that the waiter? Hard to tell when swimming in a dream. ___ Private Paradise From the rather excellent viewpoint of our suite’s poolside hammock, I watch as a butterfly flits about at alternating altitudes, seemingly flummoxed by the abundant choices. Much like the decision-making we’re tasked with today: choosing between a spa treatment, a beach walk, the tortilla-making class, or maybe just staying in the room, wearing cushy robes and reading books atop the fluffy cloud known as the Four Seasons Signature bed . Best to rinse off such indecision under the sparkling spritz of our outdoor shower. A single ray of sunlight sneaks a peek into the privacy of our wet-room balcony, afloat over the sea bluffs like that breezy butterfly. ___ Architecture Local textures, contours and colors serve as design guidelines for the architecture of Tamarindo. Details found in the natural environment here are thoughtfully interpreted in the structures’ forms and surfaces. Native stone dramatically frame passageways, some inspired by sea caves. Blue tiles line every pool, dovetailing seamlessly with the color of sea, as if as one body of water. Architects Victor Legorreta , Mauricio Rocha and Mario Schjetnan of LegoRocha designed the resort and the neighboring private residences. The exquisite minimalist interiors are the work of Uribe Krayer and Estudio Esterlina . The inspired natural landscapes were crafted by the gifted Mario Schjetnan . ___ Image courtesy of Four Seasons Resort Tamarindo Savoring Tamarindo One soon becomes familiar with the resident tres amigos of fine food options, Coyul , Sal & Nacho . Coyul feels like home with its sweet staff and comfy seating welcoming you with open (air) arms. A setting so impressive one must remember to eat–which is easy given the unbelievable Rosetta pastries by morning and scrumptious hand-made Mexican favorites at lunch and dinner. Then there’s Sal, a shell’s throw above the surf, with unparalleled fresh fish and seafood, the source of which is rolling by right in front of you. Nacho Taqueria is our favorite secret spot, slyly tucked away on a stone terrace, pumping out great music, creative cocktails and amazing tacos. Or, simply remain in your swim suits and dine in-room! ___ Divine History Class convenes today at happy hour. Our professor/sommelier enthralls us with an exploration of Mexico's past as charted by the proliferation of winemaking through the centuries. With each informative sip, we learn about Mexico’s oldest wine-producing regions and traditions of the craft. Carefully selected wines from Guanajuato, San Luis Potosí and Coahuila lead us along the Real de Tierra Adentro, complete with a leather treasure map unrolled beneath rows of shimmering stemware backlit by the retiring sun. Our thirst for knowledge quenched just in time for dinner—with an enhanced appreciation of the wine list. ___ Imbibing Perfection There’s something about the twist of a lemon rind, with its hypnotic spritz of citrus scenting the chilled edge of one’s glass. The misty crescendo of cocktail crafting. During this magic show, the ocean appears to fill our glasses as it undulates in the distance, framing the talented conjurer behind the bar. The horizon is bright, like a light box waiting for images of soon-cherished moments to be added. Our tapered stemware mimics the pool umbrellas, filtering the lazy light at dusk here at the Coyul bar. ___ Breakfast on the Bluff To shed some recently-acquired calories, we schedule an early morning hike through the Tamarindo private nature preserve. We are greeted by our guide as the dawn makes quick work of the “darkest hour”, sending a zillion stars packing. Our path winds through the protected jungle, as unique tree and bird species are ID’d along the way. Soon the view opens to the El Tamarindo Golf Course where the morning sky arches overhead. A deep arroyo reveals the course’s majestic seaside Par 3, 9th hole. We, however are not here to swack egg-size balls. Our trophy is a spectacular post-hike Four Seasons “breakfast-anywhere” private picnic, thoughtfully prepared atop a serene sea bluff. We reflect on the morning’s invigorating nature excursion as we resume our exercise in indulgence with fresh croissants, fruit, charcuterie and coffee. ___ La Playa For Ya The beach at Tamarindo is a quick golf cart ride from room-to-lounger. If they know you’re coming they’ll have your Aperol Spritz waiting for you. Lunch too, served at your shaded stakeout in beachy bento boxes. The bay laps in like a lake with its gentle waves and wide crescent shore that seems to reach all the way up to LA. The water is warm and welcoming, as is the sand, with an array of spiral and scalloped shells enjoying their long-awaited shore leave. Possible souvenirs of a perfect day in the Jalisco surf and sun. ___ Nature of Tamarindo Hawks and gulls hang on the breeze overhead, as migrating whales are sighted in the distance spouting salt spray into the air. Down on the beach, tiny crabs dash sideways between the whitewater and their personal safety portals. The impressive 3,000 acre nature preserve that surrounds the resort like a botanical moat is being “rewilded” by a dedicated team of on-site biologists and conservationists to restore the jungle’s natural rhythms and to protect its wildlife. White-throated Magpie Jays with incredible long blue feathered tails and singing Collared-Forest Falcons cohabit in the branches of a Tescalame tree which, curiously, grows horizontally. ___ Image courtesy of Four Seasons Resort Tamarindo Ahhh, The Spa The Four Seasons Tamarindo Spa is a masterpiece of architectural design that exudes relaxation and contemplation. Minimalist open-air courtyards bring to mind the Zen gardens of Kyoto, while the sound of water slipping over etched stone transports the soul to a gentle creek in the Redwoods. The spa personnel are cheerful and gentle, inviting guests to feel at home in this simple elegance, where architectural prowess inspires personal renewal. ___ The Shop Such a delight to enter a beautifully designed retail space with soaring ceilings and light-inviting windows showcasing a collection of thoughtfully-curated wares. Adjoining the open-air Tamarindo lobby, the store becomes a favorite stop on one’s daily commute to paradise. Every piece on display, be it jewelry, ceramics or garment is hand-made in Mexico. More than a “gift shop”, it serves as a comprehensive design exhibition of Mexican creative talent. One craftsperson, we’re told, is a young girl who grew up blind but taught herself the art of ceramics. Her whimsical animal-themed bowls featured throughout the store bring light and levity to the world. ___ SPOTLIGHT: Tortilla Talent Scouting In Mexico, behind every great meal is a great tortilla. A corn tortilla. It may look simple, perfectly round and plain, but such minimalism is indeed art. And like any artform, it requires passion, precision (and tricep strength). With tortillas, it all starts with a kernel of knowledge about softening the gravel-like key ingredient to grind it into a paste. Just like most of us, a good long soak in a warm bath takes the fight out of the corn. Then on to the massage table known as the “metate”, an ancient stone + rolling pin device still favored today for pulverizing the toughest corn into a workable substance. That is, if one has the rippling musculature for the job. (A half a glass of Rosé helps fuel our needed gusto boost). Then it’s roll-baby, roll! One may settle into a meditative corn-crushing groove until gently cajoled back to reality by Tamarindo’s resident tortilla master who is tasked with teaching us the subtleties of this revered kitchen tradition. Next it’s press-time. We roll our corn mush into palm-sized balls and place them on a wood press that clamps down upon the subject like printing Gutenberg bibles. Release the pressure and voila, a perfectly round raw tortilla is formed! Now try getting said round, thin, flat and sticky tortilla off the press and on to the wood-fired “comal” that looks like a fiery kettle drum, flames shooting out from underneath its floured surface. But after a few tries we manage to pull it off, literally. We drop our objects d’art on the searing surface and watch as they bubble and lightly brown. We quickly find out though that flipping the tortilla without burning one’s fingertips is also an art. One that the rest of our rosé can’t help. We let the master flip them. Now it’s time to add variety. We crank out more tortillas, one batch topped with cheese, another with mushrooms, and finally, my personal favorite, the toile-like cilantro festooned tortilla, with each green leaf baked-in like inlay. As class is dismissed, our graduation is celebrated with a toast and a tasting of our corn creations. This new-found tortilla-enlightening now tops our list of the (many) pleasures of Tamarindo. Corn Heritage Cooking Class ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

  • SPLIT | Hither & Wander

    Roman splendor in a modern port city greets seafarers arriving with stories and suntans from the nearby Dalmatian Islands. SPLIT, PORTUGAL Roman splendor in a modern port city greets seafarers arriving with stories and suntans from the nearby Dalmatian Islands. Palace Coup In this bustling port city, modern automobiles and streamlined ships meet Roman antiquity. “Soldiers” in red and gold regalia enliven the piazzas along the waterfront where the skyline is punctuated with ancient columns like in Rome. The city was originally an ancient palace built for the Roman emperor Diocletian at the turn of the fourth century AD. Half for him and half for an army garrison. The “palace” forms about half the old town of Split. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

  • Montenegro | Hither & Wander

    Where the sky shines with a swanky glow and the beaches are steeped in casual glamour. MONTENEGRO Where the sky shines with a swanky glow, and the beaches are steeped in casual glamour. Drive along the Adriatic coastline as it winds its way south from Dubrovnik and watch as the rolling hillsides gradually turn into terraced rooflines and patio railings that sketch the outline of modern Montenegro. Just inland from Tivat, an incredible fjord reaches deep upstream, gradually tacking southeast to the ancient village of Kotor. Standing still in time, its Romanesque charm floats like the colorful vessels anchored at its waterfront. From here, venture further south, where the turquoise Adriatic meets the salt and pepper sands of Sveti Stefan, home to the extraordinary Aman Hotel , nestled atop its own island. Quite possibly the most captivating resort location ever. KOTOR A Medieval Jewel SVETI STEFAN Islet in the Sun

  • KYOTO | Hither & Wander

    Leaves scurry in a rushed swirl across the stone steps leading up to the temple gates as the city fades behind us. In any season, Kyoto is a dream, but seen in fall color, one knows their visit was perfectly timed. KYOTO, JAPAN Leaves scurry in a rushed swirl across the stone steps leading up to the temple gates as the city fades behind us. In any season, Kyoto is a dream, but seen in fall color, one knows their visit was perfectly timed. FIVE FAVES / KYOTO Living Zen Each footprint vanishes into the grooves of rhythmic circles, as a zen gardener pulls his broom methodically through the gravel, creating linear grooves designed to promote stillness in the viewer's mind. Deeply part of Japanese living and culture, zen gardens were first established in the 13th Century as a place for monks to meditate Buddha's teachings. Here, at the stunning Ginkaku-ji Temple , this art form is maintained daily –a practice, in itself a meditation. ___ Kyoto Through a Veil Sunlight dapples the ground, highlighting an array of colorful leaves that have quietly found their seat. A playful breeze rustles the scene, rearranging the pattern in an ongoing evolution. Kyoto, as seen through the veil of fall, is as red as apples and cherries. So different a picture than the countless white blossoms exhibited in these exact same trees just two seasons ago. A recurrent joy for the wide-eyed visitor. The glazed rooftops of the Enkouji Temple appear like steps that follow the hillside slope toward the glow of central Kyoto. Like a lantern, the town beckons the eye, even if the heart begs to stay here on this elevated plain, bathed in fall color and steeped in enlightenment. ___ Light + Space = Tranquility The essence of Japanese architectural design is minimalism, effortlessly at one with the outside landscape. Walls of rice paper panes glide between the floor and ceiling in a widened embrace of the view, while softened sunlight illuminates the room through the parchment diffusion. The outside enters like a welcome guest, framed in perfect proportion to the interior space. From the tranquil Honen-in Temple , to a bustling Blue Bottle Coffee Cafe , Kyoto is home to this timeless design practice, so comfortable in its place, as if ordained by nature. ___ Japanese Joinery Centuries before the advent of screws and metal fasteners, Japanese builders developed ways to adjoin wooden beams in the construction of buildings that would stand for generations. Intricately carved “male” ends of posts and beams are joined with geometrically, matching female ends to create load-bearing bracing. Nowhere is this engineering art form more evident than in the Anraku-ji Temple . Look up and be amazed. All done by hand, without the aid of a computer program or 3D printer! ___ Kimonos The national garment of Japan is also the most beautiful interpretation of unisex fashion. History and heritage is woven into each design, along with comfort and practicality. In Kyoto’s Gion district , history and Japanese culture literally line the streets. Hence, a haven for great kimono watching. But don’t just admire, acquire!! Vintage, bespoke and everyday options are available, which makes for a fun treasure hunt. We suggest meandering to YAYA , a little vintage boutique in Southern Higashiyama . ___ Prayer Plaques Charming house-shaped wooden plaques called Ema are layered in an orderly, shingled jumble at Saginomori-jinja Shrine and other Shinto shrines all across Kyoto. Purchase one and sit with it in your lap while studying the treetops overhead as they tickle the clouds. Think about this moment and the time before –and ahead. Put a prayer into words and scribe it onto your plaque, then fasten it amongst the others –your wish now afloat like a whisper. ___ Mochi and Matcha The squishy delight of Mochi is a true Japanese treat. A rice cake made of a short-grain rice and a dash of water, sugar, and cornstarch. The steamed rice is pounded into a paste, then formed into shapes, usually that of a bite size igloo. In Japan, it is traditionally made in a ceremony called mochitsuki . Originating in China, Matcha is a finely ground powder made with specially grown green tea leaves and is enjoyed across all of East Asia –and now, the world. These days, it is mostly produced in Japan, where one may experience its special allure at the Honen-in Temple where it is served along with a dreamily presented side of Mochi! For those who desire a fuller menu, nearby is the Green Terrace Riverside Cafe located just along the Philosopher's Walk , the renowned pedestrian path that follows a cherry tree-lined canal in Northern Higashiyama district. ___ Ryokan Genhouin At this quaint inn in Kyoto, the arrival of each new guest is denoted with the addition of two shoes joining the lineup of footwear at the front slatted-wood door. One can immediately see before entering if it’s a full house or not. No matter how many guests are in residence, this tranquil ryokan is as quiet as a sleeping cat. In each room, a ceramic vase with a single-stem flower occupies a zen niche, thoughtfully waiting to inspire contemplation. But the pièce de résistance is the onsite onsen . A renewing ritual that calls out to the visitor exploring Kyoto to return and fold into the warm water bath —wide enough to include friends! ___ Soba at Juu-go Japanese soba noodles are made with buckwheat. Brown and flat and thin like spaghetti. It’s strong in flavor and often served cold, in salads or with dipping sauces. In Kyoto, it’s also performance art at Juu-go where the kitc hen becomes theater as the chef makes and serves the noodles right before your eyes. Confused between SOBA and UDON noodles? Here’s a simple tip: SOBA has a “B”, as in Buckwheat”, or “Brown”. ___ Groundbreaking Women Centuries before Martha Graham redefined modern dance, Izumo no Okuni invented the theatrical art form of kabuki here on the dry riverbed of the Kamo River . By the mid 1600’s, Okuni's troupe became immensely popular, renowned for their performers who were often lower-class women recruited to act in her all-female theatre group. Her groundbreaking work is present today in reenactments along the parched river and in Japan’s not-to-miss Kabuki theaters. ___ Gion Calling Within the cobbled labyrinth of Kyoto’s historic Higashiyama District , all pathways seem to lead to the tall and graceful, multi-roof Hokan-ji Temple , known locally as the Yasaka Pagoda, or “Tower of Yasaka”. Inspired by a dream, it was built by the Imperial Prince Shotoku in 589, here in the storied warrens of Gion , where time stands still. ___ Yasaka Shrine The mesmerizing glow of the Yasaka Shrine at night serves as a beacon that leads to the historic Gion district . A gentle breeze rolls across the plaza, encouraging rows of lanterns to sway hypnotically, as if a spirit ran its hand along a curtain of light. A tradition known as Hatsumode - the first shrine visit of the new year - invites worshipers to take home a flame from the shrine’s sacred fire, with which to cook their first meal of the new year. ___ Bamboo Garden One feels a thrilling sense of peace in seeing the midday sunlight slant through the towering bamboo like swords. A “thrilling peacefulness” may be a contradiction in terms, but such is the sense of balance at Enkouji Temple . Darkness threaded with light. Cavalier breezes stilled. Yellow challenging green. Opposites together, in peace. ___ Spirituality Allow your thoughts to drift like smoke across the landscape at Nanzenji Temple with its massive brass urn containing a mountain of sand that hosts a grove of incense sticks. Each stick lit with hopes and dreams, as it lofts a scented cloud towards the gods. At Saginomori Temple , take the thick rope in both hands and pull down hard. Your heart is heard in the ringing of the bell. ___ Kyoto Footsteps There is an inspired moment in Kyoto that’s very special. The moment when one steps through the modest doorway of an ancient temple. The mountains and trees seem to bow in greeting the visitor. Imagine centuries of footsteps that have traversed this very threshold. Yours newly added, like new links on an eternal chain. Top two images: Nanzen-ji Temple Bottom image: Manshu-in Temple ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

  • CAVTAT | Hither & Wander

    Walk along the waterfront where the sea sparkles brightly between the hulls of yachts and the stemware of several Aperol Spritz. There are few places this near to perfection. CAVTAT, CROATIA Walk along the waterf ront where the sea sparkles brightly between the hulls of yachts and the stemware of several Aperol Spritz. There are few places this near to perfection. Waterfront Fantasy It’s all too easy to miss this small seaport village, just south of its more famous neighbor, Dubrovnik, but once we stumbled onto it, we fell straight into its charms. So began a memorable afternoon romance with a tall and handsome Aperol Spritz, or was it two? We asked our waitress if she knew of any nearby hotels and she pointed to an old inn a few steps away. Hotel Bracka Perla Supetar . We got the last room and cancelled our hotel in Dubrovnik. Then walked around the waterfront in an extended daze amid the dusk light, at one point crossing paths with a flag waving wedding party promenading to the church. ___ SPOTLIGHT: Konoba Koraceva Kuca (11 miles south of Cavtat) An alfresco meal in the courtyard at Konoba Kora c eva Ku c a in Gruda serves the senses like a daydream. Vineyards stretch out from the gravel terrace, as clouds fluffed like tablecloths assemble overhead. A light rosé, aged in cellars from across the valley starts off this story, soon followed by fresh, local fare cooked on an outdoor wood stove, its rich smoke rising to entice the sky. Nestle into your seat because you’re going to be here for a lovely, long while. Across the courtyard, a woman lights a bundle of twigs in the outdoor brick kitchen that will soon grill your fresh fish. Back at the terrace table, overlooking the languid vineyard and soaring mountains beyond, your glass is filled with crisp Croatian white wine, poured with pride by a sinewy waiter who is excited to recite today’s specials in newly-honed English. Each course outdoes the previous. Cheeses arrive first, crowned with a snip of fresh basil. Next, a pillowy butter lettuce salad is tossed with olive oil and slices of apple and nectarine. Then, herbed gnocchi that melts into your dreams. Today’s catch of sea bass floats in, grilled to succulent perfection. Post-nirvana, a flourless almond and citrus cake comes blessed with a crescent of lavender ice cream. Now, in a form of heaven, just walk the garden, to breathe and to ponder such delights. Konoba Koraceva Kuca Korac street, 20215, Gruda, Croatia Phone: +385 20 791 557 ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

  • France | Hither & Wander

    One needs only an afternoon in France, to realize its romance. The sparkle of myriad fountains. The colors of stained glass streaming onto centuries old stone. The rhythm of leaves in long formal gardens, waving in a light breeze as if greeting friends. The gentle pour of rosé into a glass at a street side cafe. The silent gaze of masterworks displayed in museums all across the country. Art. Style. Fashion. Cuisine. Welcome to the unmatched romance of France. FRANCE One needs only an afternoon in France, to realize its romance. The sparkle of myriad fountains. The colors of stained glass streaming onto centuries old stone. The rhythm of leaves in long formal gardens, waving in a light breeze as if greeting friends. The gentle pour of rosé into a glass at a street side cafe. The silent gaze of masterworks displayed in museums all across the country. Art. Style. Fashion. Cuisine. Welcome to the unmatched romance of France. BRITTANY Mystical and Mythical NICE A Sensual Quality of Life PARIS A Curated List PROVENCE The Ultimate Painterly Landscape

  • FIVE FAVES / PROVENCE | Hither & Wander

    Our top five favorite things to do in the wine country of Provence, France. 1 Colors of Roussillon French rosé in the form of buildings rather than bottles. Visiting the town is like rubbing shoulders with a French Expressionist's palette, its colors literally derived from the local hillsides. PROVENCE, FRANCE 2 Sipping Kir Royales in Aix-en-Provence The summer daylight hangs on well into happy hour as the "city of a thousand fountains" welcomes the evening. Plant yourself in the middle of it all, like an island in a bubbly stream. PROVENCE, FRANCE 3 Lacoste The Marquis de Sade once called it home. Pierre Cardin called it his , after buying up most of the village. Today, it stands as a stunning example of thoughtful preservation, education and culture. PROVENCE, FRANCE 4 Market Day in Lourmarin Morning light inches down ivy walls as vendors set up a truly great street market. Every Friday, a cavalcade of food, flowers, jewelry, art and antiques line the lovely lanes of Lourmarin. PROVENCE, FRANCE 5 The Flavors of Bonnieux Beautifully plated and wonderfully satiated, here, just one hilltop east of Lacoste. Discover the artful bounty that is Bonnieux, a 13th century papal village with palpably modern tastes. PROVENCE, FRANCE Back FIVE FAVES Next

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