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Walk along the waterfront where the sea sparkles brightly between the hulls of yachts and the stemware of several Aperol Spritz. There are few places this near to perfection. CAVTAT, CROATIA Walk along the waterf ront where the sea sparkles brightly between the hulls of yachts and the stemware of several Aperol Spritz. There are few places this near to perfection. Waterfront Fantasy It’s all too easy to miss this small seaport village, just south of its more famous neighbor, Dubrovnik, but once we stumbled onto it, we fell straight into its charms. So began a memorable afternoon romance with a tall and handsome Aperol Spritz, or was it two? We asked our waitress if she knew of any nearby hotels and she pointed to an old inn a few steps away. Hotel Bracka Perla Supetar . We got the last room and cancelled our hotel in Dubrovnik. Then walked around the waterfront in an extended daze amid the dusk light, at one point crossing paths with a flag waving wedding party promenading to the church. ___ SPOTLIGHT: Konoba Koraceva Kuca (11 miles south of Cavtat) An alfresco meal in the courtyard at Konoba Kora c eva Ku c a in Gruda serves the senses like a daydream. Vineyards stretch out from the gravel terrace, as clouds fluffed like tablecloths assemble overhead. A light rosé, aged in cellars from across the valley starts off this story, soon followed by fresh, local fare cooked on an outdoor wood stove, its rich smoke rising to entice the sky. Nestle into your seat because you’re going to be here for a lovely, long while. Across the courtyard, a woman lights a bundle of twigs in the outdoor brick kitchen that will soon grill your fresh fish. Back at the terrace table, overlooking the languid vineyard and soaring mountains beyond, your glass is filled with crisp Croatian white wine, poured with pride by a sinewy waiter who is excited to recite today’s specials in newly-honed English. Each course outdoes the previous. Cheeses arrive first, crowned with a snip of fresh basil. Next, a pillowy butter lettuce salad is tossed with olive oil and slices of apple and nectarine. Then, herbed gnocchi that melts into your dreams. Today’s catch of sea bass floats in, grilled to succulent perfection. Post-nirvana, a flourless almond and citrus cake comes blessed with a crescent of lavender ice cream. Now, in a form of heaven, just walk the garden, to breathe and to ponder such delights. Konoba Koraceva Kuca Korac street, 20215, Gruda, Croatia Phone: +385 20 791 557 ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

JAPAN A land where mindfulness flows in many forms: architecture, cuisine, garden design, fashion, music, stage, packaging, transportation. Each craft thoughtfully explored and realized with exquisite simplicity. Tokyo efficiently shelters an impossibly large populous with welcoming grace. Kyoto inspires the soul and spirit with humble sophistication. Naoshima delights the eyes and mind with groundbreaking originality. Together, they are the glow of the rising sun that is Japan.

Explore the wonder of this worldy city whose welcoming expanse of the Rio Tejo celebrates the explorers who launched their wooden galleons from this very spot in the 15th century in search of the New World. LISBON, PORTUGAL Explore the wonder of this worldy city whose welcoming expanse of the Rio Tejo celebrates the explorers who launched their wooden galleons from this very spot in the 15th century in search of the New World. FIVE FAVES / LISBON The Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology MAAT seems to have just landed like a graceful bird upon this modern gateway to the city. The subjects of art, architecture and technology come together all under one incredible roof. From atop, one beholds a 180 degree view of the river, while just below, an arc of terraced steps offer another perfect perch. ___ Belém Tower All roads (and tiled sidewalks) lead to the the river that launched a thousand dreams. Belém Tower, or the Tower of St. Vincent is a 15th century fortification that symbolized the Portuguese maritime accomplishments of the 15th century. The tower stands at the mouth of the Tagus river, initially as a defense garrison and now as the ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. ___ The Cultural Centre of Belém Across Avenida de Brasília from the fabled Lisbon waterfront, one may discover a new world of contemporary art and innovative architecture. Remarkable exhibits and music await an afternoon’s indulgence at the aforementioned MAAT and, just across the highway, at The Cultural Centre of Belém . This large building houses The Berardo Collection Museum which features various indoor and outdoor galleries exhibiting impressive collections (and the occasional al fresco film screening). Open every day for art lovers —and true loves. Rejuvenate alfresco, at Este Oeste Pizza and Sushi , soaking up its sunny rooftop terrace, reasonably priced delights —and some good rosé! ___ Cross Over, Children! While Lisbon lazes about on its beautiful north shore of the Rio Tejo, a short ferry ride across to the Almada side delivers an even more laid back vibe. What looks like an abandoned waterfront, lined with the remains of old buildings, is surprisingly full of life, delightfully lubricated with Vino Verde’s and serving up unforgettable alfresco dining and sensational views. Best to make a reservation because this quaint discovery hidden away on the ancient docks is actually quite popular, Ristorante Ponto Final and Atira-te ao Rio Restaurante. ___ Pastéis de Nata One of the true pleasures of travel is discovering local edible wonders such as Portugal’s own Pastéis de Nata. Tiny custard tarts that all too easily fit between the thumb and forefinger, enjoyed with an espresso. The much heralded home of these traditional treats is Pastéis de Belém , with its centuries-old secret recipe attributed to kitchen-wizard monks from the Jerónimos Monastery. Understated from the outside, the bakery is a haven of delight on the inside, —indeed a metaphor for their famous bite size treasures. ___ Views from Above The highest point in Lisbon welcomes you not with a herald of bells but with a ringing view of the city. Established in the 1st century BC, the fortification sits atop a steep hillside, crowning the cobbled twists and turns of the Alfama neighborhood. Lisbon is a collection of views awarded to those whose knees can endure the ascent and/or descent. The bell tower of Castelo de Sao Jorge is one such reward, atop the highest hill in the city. Well worth the climb, the fortress defends a 360 panorama of the city and its sparkling River Tagus. One may avoid the multitude of steps, reaching it via taxi or transit, but where’s the sport in that? A fun way to cheat Lisbon’s relentless climbs is the Santa Justa Lift , the Eiffel Tower of Lisbon, (in fact, designed by a student of Gustave Eiffel) was built in 1901. Rising seven stories straight up, its chief purpose is augmenting hundreds upon hundreds of steps to the top of the commanding hill above the Baixa district. ___ Paved in Art Portugal’s ultimate, treasured tradition is tile. Mosaics are everywhere, shimmering on walls and inlaid into sidewalks, illustrating the history and spirit of this stunning country. ___ Stairway to Heaven Zigzag your way up numerous M.C. Escher-esque staircases, or simply elevate yourself aboard the aforementioned Santa Justa Lift to alight upon one of the coolest sights ever, the Carmo Archaeological Museum . A former convent built in 1389, where the heavens are truly part of the place, due to the roof having collapsed in the great Lisbon earthquake of 1755. Now a stunning indoor/outdoor museum with exhibits related to the history of Lisbon from pre-historic times through to the Middle Ages. The gift shop, with its tall windows looking across the city to the Castle is, in itself, worth the trek. ___ Reaching New Heights As the sun goes down, the music comes up on rooftops all across town. Some packed with revealers dancing with both hands signaling the night sky, some quaint (and comparatively quiet) with a half dozen wealthy winos raising toasts. And, on some hilltop terrace, a lone guitarist frets in Portuguese about a girl who is now likely up on the first rooftop. But it’s not all about imbibing and talking rubbish on rooftops. The night also invites the more bookish to indulge in words of the wise. Ler Devagar Bookstore , with shelves stacked to the high ceiling glows from the inside as it beckons passerby to open a new chapter. ___ Brilliance of the Night Tucked away behind the Time Out Market is a little wine-bar-meets-Jazz-den, Cafe Tati , that pumps up the dusk with muscular musicianship that puts the window panes to the test. But the sweetness of the band’s improvised song tingles our wine glasses with the redemption of a sound bath. ___ Inclined to Enjoy The sidewalks of Lisbon dutifully conform to the city’s hillsides, transforming a level (tile-lined) avenue into a challenging set of stairs, ever upward. Lisbon is not for the faint-of-knee, or ankle. But for those not hampered by lower-extremity limitations, it’s an incredibly beautiful city with rewarding views and points of interest at each summit. Count on stairs being part of any walking tour and for that reason, consider visiting Lisbon in the spring or fall because who wants to traverse stairs under an unrelenting summer sun, or the bracing chill of winter? Regardless of the weather, one can always take the yellow trolley and save one’s knees for another day of exploring this romantic city, home to the very term “explorer”, as the launching port for the Age of Discoveries. Often, what we seek in travel is ascent for the mind and soul. In Lisbon, it's literal. Climb to reach a restaurant, a bar, a club. Climb your way to the pinnacle of Lisboa's Boheme groove. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Our top five favorite things to do on the island of Oahu, Hawaii. 1 Honolulu Museum of Art One of our very favorite museums in the world. This humble space of courtyards and galleries hosts great artworks, an inspired gift shop and a dreamy open-air café, altogether the perfect museum experience. HONOLULU MUSEUM OF ART 2 Diamond Head Beach A treasure of sparkling sand that inspired its name lay nearly hidden at the bare foot of Oahu’s iconic peak, just east of Waikiki. A haven for surfers, lovers and dreamers, accessed via a manicured trail at the Diamond Head Lighthouse. DIAMOND HEAD BEACH PARK 3 Chinatown Honolulu‘s most historic district is lined with great shops, funky bars, and unique dining. And, importantly, the most affordable, and fresh lei shops on the island. CHINATOWN 4 Nico’s Pier 38 & Upstairs At Pier 38 The best chef in the Pacific, Nico serves up fresh-caught tuna (the daily fish auction is next door!) and a consistently award-winning burger among other greats. “Upstairs” features the finest local musicians, creative cocktails and elevated cuisine. NICO'S PIER 38 UPSTAIRS AT PIER 38 5 Kaimana Beach Hotel A perfect boutique inn perched on the edge of paradise with palm trees hula dancing in the breeze outside your window. The hotel’s famous beachside Hau Tree Lanai restaurant serves island favorites beneath the same twist of tree branches where Robert Lewis Stevenson wrote poetry in 1888. KAIMANA BEACH HOTEL Back OAHU Next

Explore a medieval magical wonder. Behind the formidable walls of this ancient city, there is a sense of openness that feels quite contemporary. An architectural treasure so dramatic it could be its own opera stage—not to mention being the set of Game of Thrones! DUBROVNIK, CROATIA Explore a medieval magical wonder. Behind the formidable walls of this ancient city, there is a sense of openness that feels quite contemporary. An architectural treasure so dramatic it could be its own opera stage—not to mention being the set of Game of Thrones! Timeless Old Town A city in cosplay, this walled medieval village is subject to visiting throngs of Thrones fans taking over the stone streets like scenes from a zombie film. The best way to avoid the invasion of fandom and cruise ship fodder is to rise very early and be among the first through the gates. What greets you then is a freshly rinsed wonder, protected through the ages by a battlement wall that beckons a 360 stroll. The streets and plazas in the center are like candy, enticing the visitor to try one more shop or cafe before closing the box. ___ SPOTLIGHT: Lady PiPi Lady PiPi noted for its playfully pornographic sculpture out front, and it’s freshly grilled delights inside, this patio-under-a-grape-arbor restaurant is the only eatery one needs to know within the walled city. Whole fish sizzle over aromatic wood fires, dutifully attended to and beautifully served. If there’s a wait, it’s worth it, giving one added time to ponder the inspiration for the artwork that “bares” the name, “pipi”. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Visiting Portugal is like finding a wonderful, affordable bottle of wine. It quickly becomes a new favorite, pouring on the charm from the verdant Douro Valley vineyards in the north, to the bright southern beaches of the Algarve. Discover the country that launched the very meaning of exploration. PORTUGAL Visiting Portugal is like finding a wonderful, affordable bottle of wine. It quickly becomes a new favorite, pouring on the charm from the verdant Douro Valley vineyards in the north, to the bright southern beaches of the Algarve. Discover the country that launched the very meaning of exploration.

A stunning storybook town unfolds in the mist, revealing wedding cake castles and stone fortresses from ions past. Step into this fairytale world, just an hour’s train ride from modern Lisbon. SINTRA, PORTUGAL A stunning storybook town unfolds in the mist, revealing wedding cake castles and stone fortresses from ions past. Step into this fairytale world, just an hour’s train ride from modern Lisbon. Moor is More Just an hour by train from Lisbon, one enters the storybook Sintra Cultural Landscape , a UNESCO World Heritage Site, crowned by the expansive Castle of the Moors. Constructed between the 8th and 9th centuries, it ascends the hillsides like a creature from beneath the earth. Its stepped battlements give rise to scenes of marauding armies, relentlessly challenging it through generations. Today it stands open to all, beckoning visitors to traverse its ancient walls. ___ Pena Palace Across the hillsides from the Moorish Castle, the colorful facades of the National Palace of Pena emerge through the morning fog. Originally the residence of 9th century Islamic Moorish rulers, it was later captured by Portugal’s first king, Afonso Henriques, The Conqueror in the 12th century. The playful, present day melange of Gothic, Manueline, Moorish and Mudéjar architectural styles were added in the 15th and 16th centuries. Inside and out, the palace and it’s nearby gardens are a royal dazzle for the eye. Testament to its strategic hilltop-near-the-sea location, fog and mist add mystery to timeless charm. A feathered patrol paddles the meandering ponds like royal sentries while expressive gargoyles oversee the higher grounds. ___ Storybook Storefronts It’s not just about castles and royals in Sintra, as the townsfolk illustrate with genuine warmth. I am drawn to the little shops and cafes clustered along the hill in storybook fashion. The charm is rendered in tile mosaics on shop walls and spelled out on steps leading to their doors. ___ Quinta da Regaleira There are many extravagant palaces in Sintra whose soaring spires punctuate the sky, but this tower points down 27-meters into the ground like an inverted tower. Imagine the dark, medieval dampness below ground as you descend the spiral staircase alone, blindfolded, a sword held close to your heart. Nine flights of stairs into the earth – a number that represents the nine founders of the mysterious Templar order, you reach the bottom of the well, not for water, but to walk the dark labyrinth trying to find your way back up towards the light. If you made it you were welcomed as a newly initiated member of the sect. Today, one’s initiation to Quinta da Regaleira includes a lesson in patience as you wait for the crowd to clear before snapping your cinematic moment on the spiral staircase. After all, patience is a virtue, even for Instagrammers. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Évora has everything one could ask for in a historic village, from an intimate chapel with human bones as the interior design theme, to a grand cathedral where one may take a walk on the roof. AND the columns of a Roman temple standing sentry at the very center of town. ÉVORA, PORTUGAL Évora has everything one could ask for in a historic village, from an intimate chapel with human bones as the interior design theme, to a grand cathedral where one may take a walk on the roof. AND the columns of a Roman temple standing sentry at the very center of town. The Road to Ruins Ham and cheese with a temple on the side. The Roman Temple of Évora maintains its timeless stand atop this inland Portuguese town, where locals and visitors traverse its cobbled roads to ruins. Évora is home to monumental Roman archeology, soaring cathedrals, small shops and the inevitable lunch at an outdoor cafe in the shade of centuries past. ___ Gothic Glow A fortified church dating back to 1186, Évora Cathedral is the largest in Portugal. Its cloister, added in 1325 invites a climb to the rooftop where its tapering roofline feels like a bridge to somewhere. Lined with castle-style battlements, the roof provided a 360 degree defense from the highest point of this hilltop city. Portals that today offer a peaceful panorama of the entirety of Évora and beyond. ___ Interior Design to Die For The Chapel of Bones was built by Franciscan monks in the late 16th century, tasked with relocating human remains from cemeteries around Évora due to the high value of land. Hence a rethinking of cemetery internment. Simultaneously, these enterprising monks reimagined interior design for churches, festooning the surfaces with all things skeletal. They topped it off with an ominous greeting above the door: “Nós ossos que aqui estamos, pelos vossos esperamos,” or: “We bones, are here, waiting for yours.” They also offered a traveler advisory, inscribed on one of the bony pillars: “Where are you going in such a hurry, traveler? Stop, for the sake of your journey. For the more you pause, the further on your journey you will be.” ___ Stonehenge’s Southern Sister The Cromlech of the Almendres is the Stonehenge of Portugal and one of the largest megalithic stone circles in Europe. Positioned on an east-facing axis, at sunrise it aligns to the spring and autumn equinoxes. On those dates, when the day and night is of equal length, the sun and moon rise at the same point on the monument’s principal stones, including the imposing Menhir dos Almendres, rising four phallic meters towards the stars. Located without fanfare in the middle of a cork tree forest, this monumental site is unfenced, free and open 24/7. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Our top five favorite things to do in this welcoming, worldly city of Lisbon, Portugal. 1 Ponto Final Tablecloths and plates the color of the sun are set on a high dock at the edge of the River Tejo, with a winning view so stunning that one must linger past sunset to witness Lisbon aglow after dark. PONTO FINAL RESTAURANTE 2 Museum of Art, Architecture & Technology An amazing riverfront complex of old and new architecture, including a repurposed 1800's power station and a sweeping exhibition space that looks as if it may take flight. MAAT 3 The Church Without a Roof Once Lisbon's largest cathedral, (until the earthquake of 1775), the ruins of Carmo Convent stand in testament to the strength of gothic design, with its vaulted arches still rising to the heavens. MUSEU ARQUEOLÓGICO DO CARMO 4 The Lisboans Hotel Scandinavian design meets Portuguese charm. Sun-filled guest rooms invite views of terra-cotta rooftops as the morning arrives with house pastries, coffee and juice at your door. THE LISBOANS 5 Pastéis de Nata Portugal's national pastry, Pastéis de Nata hails from the historic Belém district, where monks first cooked up the beloved confection in a monastery nearby. But this namesake bakery is its true home. PASTÉIS DE BELÉM Back LISBON Next

The ultimate painterly landscape. Its pastel colors dappled like brushstrokes across every field and hillside, in every storybook village and at each sumptuous meal. PROVENCE, FRANCE The ultimate painterly landscape. Its pastel colors dappled like brushstrokes across every field and hillside, in every storybook village and at each sumptuous meal. FIVE FAVES / PROVENCE Rosé in Roussillon A visit to Roussillon is a most colorful experience. As if inspired by a bowl of butter mints, the pastels that define the town soften its medieval past and welcome life in the moment. ___ Market Day in Lourmarin Sunlight inches down ancient walls in Lourmarin as chilled shadows hold their ground, for the moment. A climbing vine in starlet lipstick red finds its light as croissants and coffee alight our sidewalk table. An old couple score the first flowers at the farmers’ market while most vendors are still readying their wares. Shopkeepers flip their window signs to “ouvert”, as a sleepy shepherd signs off, having found a perfect chin rest ‘neath a cafe chair. ___ Morning Light in Lacoste Morning light threads through the ridge trees across the valley, eventually reaching the walls of the artful hilltop village of Lacoste. Artful in many ways. One, it’s the European home of SCAD (Savannah College of Art and Design). Two: Style icon Pierre Cardin took such a shine to the town, he bought up much of it, fashioning the ragged ruins into the “Saint Tropez of Culture” in Provence. But this morning the dawn owns it, turning cold stone walls into bricks of gold. The infamous hedonist Marquis de Sade once hung his chapeau at Chateau Lacoste, (when he wasn’t incarcerated for his carnal exploits). ___ Les Baux-de-Provence Grand white colonnades tower overhead in this underground acropolis of idled limestone quarries, now known as Carrières des Lumières. Immersive explorations of artists’ masterpieces are projected upon these galleries of stone hidden within the mountain slopes of northwest Provence. ___ City of a Thousand Fountains This curious moss-covered fountain from 1691 AD speaks to us, possibly in the voice of a quirky Star Wars character. Fontaine des Neuf-Canons, in the town of Aix en Provence is so named for its nine water spouts delightfully dribbling at a popular meet-up spot on the Cours Mirabeau walk street. But the grande dame of Aix fountains is surely Fontaine de la Rotonde, where countless cars, people and birds are drawn to its orbit. Aix’s many fountains originally performed a more utilitarian role, hosting sheep and other livestock as they were herded along in the heat of summer. ___ Gorgeous Gordes It may look like a sleepy village but this enchanted town in Provence is also known for its feisty and resilient qualities. “Gordians” are renowned for their rebellious spirit, sparking many a medieval battle and mustering dauntless support for Resistance fighters in World War II. Soothing its fighting spirit these days are adorable restaurants, cafes and romantic walkways. Coming or going, all roads lead to the signature view of Gordes from across a stoney ravine, where each hillside home appears to be a lookout from another century. Does a perfect setting make the food taste more amazing? In Provence it’s hard to distinguish between great flavors and fabulous surroundings. La Trinquette Gordes is a perfect example, (except here we are quite certain the food is just as impressive as the place). And the place is unforgettable. Seated atop centuries of French history in one of Provence’s most stunning villages. ___ Vibrant Rare Finds at the Avignon Flea Market Just outside the walls of the old city, a motley assemblage of sellers gather to barter away their eclectic wares at the Avignon Flea Market under the warm Provençal sun. ___ SPOTLIGHT: The Fresh Princes of Provence For those of us who dream of chucking reality and moving to Provence, here is a lovely living example: @le_farmhouse . This fabulous couple recently took on a new life in a classic two-level French farmhouse, where the original farmers lived upstairs and the livestock called the ground floor home. Thanks to the vision and talent of Dave & David, both floors are now reimagined in thoughtful, casual elegance, along with 22 formerly neglected acres that are now home to an exclusive Domaine du Chêne Vert olive oil and a lot of love. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next