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Mystical and mythical, this rolling landscape reaches the roiling sea where history reigns with steadfast pride. The architecture of ancient times fully at home in the present. BRITTANY, FRANCE Mystical and mythical , this rolling landscape reaches the roiling sea where history reigns with steadfast pride. The architecture of ancient times fully at home in the present. Mont Saint-Michel One may spot this soaring pinnacle on the horizon well before reaching the sea that surrounds it at high tide. We first saw it rising above the inland corn fields, its spires reaching up as if to touch the last cloud of a clearing storm. Inside its fortress walls a tiny medieval town terraces upward to the Abbey that crowns the island like a tiara. The inspiration to build a cathedral in such a perilous place, atop a remote rock formation off the Normandy coast, came to Bishop Saint-Aubert in a recurrent dream in 708 AD, eventually realized in all its rustic majesty. We stayed the night on the island and witnessed the evening tide swallow up the vast sandbar below, along with the day’s messages etched by visitors. By sunrise, the sea had pulled back, revealing a blank slate ready for more sand scribes. The ancient stone walls warming now as the morning shadows retreat. ___ “All The Light We Cannot See” in St. Malo "Open your eyes and see what you can with them before they close forever." —from the novel, “All The Light We Cannot See” by Anthony Doerr, which takes place during the Nazi occupation of France, featuring a young blind girl, who flees war torn Paris to shelter with her uncle in St. Malo. This walled Medieval city on the northern shore of Brittany has endured loss beyond measure, but stands as a symbol of resilience. Bombed beyond recognition during World War II, it rose again to crown the coastline with slender spires, scalloped rooftops and fierce ramparts, all of which now house shops, restaurants and boulangeries, inviting a steady stream of curious visitors. ___ Night and Day in Dinan Rain-slicked cobblestones reflect the warm windows and lanterns of another age, paving a silver night in gold. In any light, Dinan is a hidden treasure in northwestern France, just upstream from St. Malo, at a bend on the Rance river. Incredible to think that this narrow waterfront was once a major port when trading vessels from England and Holland were compact-sized. By the 13th century, as ships grew larger, St Malo’s wide port was developed to take on the job —and the goods. Meanwhile, Dinan grew up gracefully behind stone fortifications, protecting her half-timbered Brittany beauty for future generations, like ours. The sun forces through a persistent rain as one mythical god tries to outdo the other, neither taking into account how easily a rainbow could steal their show. Nonetheless, the exchange continues, presenting village scenes of Dinan in contrasts of squinting brilliance and dampened shadows. Like a watercolor in progress, crisp edges of shops and churches meet the blurred wash of medieval alleyways, forming the image of a place stilled in time. ___ Taden Day Dream The town of Taden is so soft spoken on the map that one might miss it entirely if it weren’t for a dramatic widening of the Rance river at the foot of the village. A landmark easily mistaken for a lake, its calm, mirrored water reaches across the landscape beckoning boaters, kayakers, hikers and day dreamers. ___ Menhir (Stone) of Saint Samson Rising eight phallic meters above nondescript farmland is a granite Stonehenge-like loner, pitched at a 42 degree angle, its four sides aligned to the points of the compass. The nearest source of granite is 4km away, which means a lot of prehistoric muscle was employed to get it here. Archeologists surmise that this “menhir” marked the furthest point inland where the (then) highest tide would reach. Legend has it that if anyone pulls the stone out, seawater will come bubbling up and inundate all of France in a biblical-size flood. Best to look, but not pull! ___ Parc du Thabor, Rennes Rennes, the capital city of Brittany in northwestern France is a sunny college town with a perfect park at its center. The graceful rambles of Parc du Thabor trace the urban hillside, rendering each season into a changing exhibit of color, texture and form. This heart of Bretagne also serves as the main depot for the TGV high speed rail from Paris. >>All aboard! ___ Pointe du Grouin All roads in Britanny eventually reach a quaint town or a sweeping seashore. Both serve great food! At the craggy, end-of-the-earth looking Pointe de Grouin, the sea provides an alfresco bounty that brings out the locals as well as tourists. They depart united in delirious bliss, with some overachievers suffering a temporary food coma and/or sunstroke. But worth it! ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

The leading edge of America. A state of the Union shaped like a left-pointing arrow, much like its progressive mindset. Where the past is thoughtfully preserved and the future invented. Discover ancient redwoods as tall as the sky, beaches as blond as local surfers, deserts that stand-in for Mars, mountains shaped like dinosaur spines, and jewel box cites that sparkle like stars. CALIFORNIA The leading edge of America. A state of the Union shaped like a left-pointing arrow, much like its progressive mindset. Where the past is thoughtfully preserved and the future invented. Discover ancient redwoods as tall as the sky, beaches as blond as local surfers, deserts that stand-in for Mars, mountains shaped like dinosaur spines, and jewel box cites that sparkle like stars. BIG BEAR LAKE The Height of Rejuvenation HOLLYWOOD Where Dreams Rise Like Champagne Bubbles BEACHES (Coming Soon) CENTRAL COAST (Coming Soon) DESERT CITIES (Coming Soon) GREATER LOS ANGELES (Coming Soon) NORTHERN CA (Coming Soon)

Croatia reclines along the Adriatic like an easygoing neighbor. Just 100 nautical miles from Italy, hard-won pride resonates where not so long ago, fierce fighting shuddered the nation in a protracted battle for independence. CROATIA Croatia reclines along the Adriatic like an easygoing neighbor. Just 100 nautical miles from Italy, hard-won pride resonates where not so long ago, fierce fighting shuddered the nation in a protracted battle for independence. Today its bucolic landscape and well preserved architectural heritage welcomes all with the warmth of a grandma’s embrace. CAVTAT Walk Along the Waterfront DUBROVNIK Explore a Medieval Magical Wonder OMIS A Treasure Tucked into Coastal Cliffs SPLIT Roman Splendor in a Modern Port City VIS ISLAND Indulge in Timeless Charm

The ultimate painterly landscape. Its pastel colors dappled like brushstrokes across every field and hillside, in every storybook village and at each sumptuous meal. PROVENCE, FRANCE The ultimate painterly landscape. Its pastel colors dappled like brushstrokes across every field and hillside, in every storybook village and at each sumptuous meal. FIVE FAVES / PROVENCE Rosé in Roussillon A visit to Roussillon is a most colorful experience. As if inspired by a bowl of butter mints, the pastels that define the town soften its medieval past and welcome life in the moment. ___ Market Day in Lourmarin Sunlight inches down ancient walls in Lourmarin as chilled shadows hold their ground, for the moment. A climbing vine in starlet lipstick red finds its light as croissants and coffee alight our sidewalk table. An old couple score the first flowers at the farmers’ market while most vendors are still readying their wares. Shopkeepers flip their window signs to “ouvert”, as a sleepy shepherd signs off, having found a perfect chin rest ‘neath a cafe chair. ___ Morning Light in Lacoste Morning light threads through the ridge trees across the valley, eventually reaching the walls of the artful hilltop village of Lacoste. Artful in many ways. One, it’s the European home of SCAD (Savannah College of Art and Design). Two: Style icon Pierre Cardin took such a shine to the town, he bought up much of it, fashioning the ragged ruins into the “Saint Tropez of Culture” in Provence. But this morning the dawn owns it, turning cold stone walls into bricks of gold. The infamous hedonist Marquis de Sade once hung his chapeau at Chateau Lacoste, (when he wasn’t incarcerated for his carnal exploits). ___ Les Baux-de-Provence Grand white colonnades tower overhead in this underground acropolis of idled limestone quarries, now known as Carrières des Lumières. Immersive explorations of artists’ masterpieces are projected upon these galleries of stone hidden within the mountain slopes of northwest Provence. ___ City of a Thousand Fountains This curious moss-covered fountain from 1691 AD speaks to us, possibly in the voice of a quirky Star Wars character. Fontaine des Neuf-Canons, in the town of Aix en Provence is so named for its nine water spouts delightfully dribbling at a popular meet-up spot on the Cours Mirabeau walk street. But the grande dame of Aix fountains is surely Fontaine de la Rotonde, where countless cars, people and birds are drawn to its orbit. Aix’s many fountains originally performed a more utilitarian role, hosting sheep and other livestock as they were herded along in the heat of summer. ___ Gorgeous Gordes It may look like a sleepy village but this enchanted town in Provence is also known for its feisty and resilient qualities. “Gordians” are renowned for their rebellious spirit, sparking many a medieval battle and mustering dauntless support for Resistance fighters in World War II. Soothing its fighting spirit these days are adorable restaurants, cafes and romantic walkways. Coming or going, all roads lead to the signature view of Gordes from across a stoney ravine, where each hillside home appears to be a lookout from another century. Does a perfect setting make the food taste more amazing? In Provence it’s hard to distinguish between great flavors and fabulous surroundings. La Trinquette Gordes is a perfect example, (except here we are quite certain the food is just as impressive as the place). And the place is unforgettable. Seated atop centuries of French history in one of Provence’s most stunning villages. ___ Vibrant Rare Finds at the Avignon Flea Market Just outside the walls of the old city, a motley assemblage of sellers gather to barter away their eclectic wares at the Avignon Flea Market under the warm Provençal sun. ___ SPOTLIGHT: The Fresh Princes of Provence For those of us who dream of chucking reality and moving to Provence, here is a lovely living example: @le_farmhouse . This fabulous couple recently took on a new life in a classic two-level French farmhouse, where the original farmers lived upstairs and the livestock called the ground floor home. Thanks to the vision and talent of Dave & David, both floors are now reimagined in thoughtful, casual elegance, along with 22 formerly neglected acres that are now home to an exclusive Domaine du Chêne Vert olive oil and a lot of love. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Where dreams rise like champagne bubbles ...or languish like shipwrecks. Either way, the allure of this industry town remains irresistible and its imprint indelible. HOLLYWOOD, CALIFORNIA Where dreams rise like champagne bubbles ...or languish like shipwrecks. Either way, the allure of this industry town remains irresistible and its imprint indelible. Paramount Studios Tour Some movie studio tours are like amusement park rides, complete with thrills and spills, but the Paramount Studios Tour is a true backstage pass. This walking-and-golf-cart exploration quickly confirms Paramount as the original home of movie magic, (proudly noting it’s the only major studio with a view of the HOLLYWOOD sign). Right out of the gate, (literally) we’re immersed in film history, as we walk through the very Bronson gate where Norma Desmond, famously declared “without me there wouldn’t be any Paramount Studios!” in the film noir classic “Sunset Boulevard”. The New York backlot is so convincing one might crave a bagel, despite the surreal backdrop of palm trees. Peering into the cavernous darkness of Stage 18 one learns that Alfred Hitchcock poked the floorboards with his walking stick and demanded they be removed to accommodate the tall set for “Rear Window” with its courtyard apartments built to scale. Then there’s Stage 1, where Orson Welles shot “Citizen Kane”. The VIP tour takes you inside the archive vault for a deeper dive into cinematic lore. The grand finale is the fantastic Paramount prop room filled with curiosities one might expect to find in Tim Burton’s garage. ___ Yo-Yo Ma at the Hollywood Bowl Like a clam shell presenting its pearl, the Hollywood Bowl is a treasured gift for great performers and fortunate audiences. Opened in 1929, the concentric arches rising over its iconic stage host the LA Philharmonic’s summer performances as well as a steady stream of stars shining under the evening sky. Here, Cellist Yo-Yo Ma single-handedly captivated the crowd playing the Bach Suites, straight through from memory. A composition written 300 years ago, conjured to life in this stellar setting by a modern master. ___ Once Upon A Time In Hollywood… The oldest restaurant in LA, The Musso & Frank Grill —since 1919 remains largely unchanged after 100+ years, yet is more popular today than ever. Many of the adored staff are “lifer’s”, one of whom, Alonso recently retired after 48 years. It is said that Charlie Chaplin would challenge Douglas Fairbanks to a horse race down Hollywood Boulevard, and the winner had to pick up the tab at Musso’s. Ah, the price of victory! To quote Michael Callahan’s book chronicling its history, “Musso’s became the clubhouse for the most peculiar band of misfits that rotated through Hollywood’s golden age –writers.” F. Scott Fitzgerald proofread his novels at a booth at Musso’s. William Faulkner met his mistress of 20 years here. Raymond Chandler wrote chapters of “The Big Sleep” while sipping cocktails in the Back Room. T.S. Elliot, Aldous Huxley, John Steinbeck and Dorothy Parker all called the Musso’s bar “home” while Anaïs Nin penned some of her diaries on that hallowed wood. Humphrey Bogart stood mesmerized by Lauren Bacall at the bar, and, I personally witnessed a similar swoon as Madonna studied Sean Penn’s eyes in a booth to themselves. TIP: always look into every booth as you’re escorted to your table. Chances are you’ll encounter some very famous faces only slightly hidden behind martini glasses. ___ Cinespia at Hollywood Forever Classic films come back to life under the stars at Hollywood Forever cemetery. Cinespia offers summer weekend screenings, al fresco on the vast Fairbanks Lawn, so named for the adjacent crypt housing both Douglas Fairbanks, Sr. and Jr. An eclectic range of films are projected onto the west wall of the Cathedral Mausoleum, which houses the crypt of Rudolph Valentino among many other notables of celluloid lore. A few steps away, Johnny Ramone plays on from atop his crypt. Bring a picnic blanket and all the trimmings, but come early to stake out your plot! ___ Hollyhock House “With a radical client like Miss Barnsdall, a site like Olive Hill, a climate like California, an architect head on for freedom, something had to happen…” —Frank Lloyd Wright Architect, Frank Lloyd Wright channeled the magnificence of Mayan temples in this 1921 home that transcended all convention for residential design. Rising just above the sparkle of Hollywood, Hollyhock House crowns Olive Hill, now known as Barnsdall Art Park , a gathering place for talent of all ages, origins and interests. Founded by the estate of Aline Barnsdall, the original owner of the home, an eccentric eastern aristocrat with a penchant for the arts. ___ Rooftop Hollywood Several new hotels line the boulevards like Oscars with flat tops. Each one crowned with a jewel sized pool. Up here, the sky becomes a silver screen as the ocean air pulls across. Drinks float on the tattooed arms of waiters who silently recite lines for tomorrow’s audition. Shadows that lounged all day under yellow umbrellas vanish as the sun finds its seat. Thompson Hotel Hollywood The Godfrey Hotel Hollywood Dream Hotels The Everly Hollywood W Hollywood ___ Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel Pool Aqua water quivers like David Hockney brush strokes, mirroring the actual swirls he famously painted on the bottom of the pool here in 1988 with a paintbrush tied to a broom handle. An Olympic sized rectangle that stretches out like swimmer’s legs across a mid century courtyard. The Roosevelt pool deck has seen it all. Debauchery, dreams. deals and divas. Bikinis, mojitos, burgers and fries, all together under the brilliant beige sky, where one’s afternoon plans drift away like pool floats. ___ Hiking Hollywood Griffith Park is the largest municipal park in the US. 50 miles of trails wiggle through folding hillsides that form a diorama of the Southern California landscape, —right in the middle of the city. Here, LA’s best hikes lead to the top of Mt Hollywood where sweeping views to the west crescendo at the edge of the sea. A silver sheen of ocean air softens the horizon, while, off to the east, downtown LA rises like Oz. Four times the size of San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park and five times the size of Central Park in New York, Griffith Park boasts 4300+ acres of rugged, (and often star studded) scenery. ___ Hollywood Mixology A whisper of Vermouth meets the mist of lemon, consummating a classic Hollywood relationship. There’s something about stemware that puts dreams on a pedestal while elevating the moment. Similarly, a ring of sea salt bestows upon a proper Paloma its well deserved crown. The night is young and well served, under the stars at Superba on Sunset, or at the bar at The Musso & Frank Grill or embraced in a sumptuous booth at Mes Amis where your table is set like a movie scene at Thompson Hotel Hollywood . ___ Vetting Hollywood Bette Davis famously quipped when asked what’s the best way for an aspiring actress to get into Hollywood?, “Take Fountain”. Indeed Fountain Ave is the quickest route, but I take Bette’s advice a little further north to “Franklin Ave.”, an east/west thoroughfare stretched like a guitar string across Hollywood. Along the way is Franklin Village, a fun few blocks studded with eclectic gems like Upright Citizens Brigade comedy club, Counterpoint Records & Books , and the essential Daily Planet Newsstand . Park your Corvette in front of Birds Hollywood , a favorite roost for rotisserie chicken lovers since 1994, where one’s pet may also enjoy a proper meal of pulled chicken served in a paper cup. Finally, indulge the “Last Cappuccino before the 101” at Clark Street Diner the classic Hollywood diner, immortalized in the 1996 film "Swingers", just a pancake throw from the almost-hidden Hollywood Freeway on-ramps at Argyle Ave. ___ Ephemeral Glamour Hollywood fame is like makeup. Stunning, and fleeting. Stars shine, until they fade. Some are reborn as lookalikes. Dead stars walking. The boulevard is graced with their likenesses. Painted. Glowing. Some in life-size, some supersized. Some are actually alive, even as they shoot themselves in the foot protesting an improper omelette. Yet still they shine. ___ The HOLLYWOOD Sign In 1923, Los Angeles Times publisher Harry Chandler spent $21,000. to erect a billboard for his hillside real estate development dubbed HOLLYWOODLAND. In contrast with Chandler’s lofty vision, down-on-her-luck actress, Peg Entwistle leapt to her death from atop the “H” in 1932. A decade later, the letters “LAND” met their own demise as the development went belly up, leaving “HOLLYWOOD” spelling out neglect and decay. In 1977, Hugh Hefner hosted a gala fundraiser at the Playboy Mansion, where the Sign letters were auctioned off, one at a time for $27,700 each. Glam-rocker Alice Cooper “bought” an “O” (in honor of Groucho Marx). Gene Autry got an “L” and Andy Williams snatched up the “W.” Thanks to these sponsors, a brand new sign was born in 1978, taking its place in history as the world’s most famous outdoor signage. ___ Hollywood Shadow Project A captivating series of seven installations located throughout the production area of Hollywood projected iconic movie scenes and titles in a whole new light. Late afternoon sunlight passes through these sculptures that resemble old billboards, casting silhouetted shadows onto neighboring buildings at movie screen sizes. Like so much about Hollywood, the fantasy is fleeting, with most of the 2001 sculptures now having been taken down in the process of modernizing tinseltown. Cameron McNall , Architect ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

A stunning storybook town unfolds in the mist, revealing wedding cake castles and stone fortresses from ions past. Step into this fairytale world, just an hour’s train ride from modern Lisbon. SINTRA, PORTUGAL A stunning storybook town unfolds in the mist, revealing wedding cake castles and stone fortresses from ions past. Step into this fairytale world, just an hour’s train ride from modern Lisbon. Moor is More Just an hour by train from Lisbon, one enters the storybook Sintra Cultural Landscape , a UNESCO World Heritage Site, crowned by the expansive Castle of the Moors. Constructed between the 8th and 9th centuries, it ascends the hillsides like a creature from beneath the earth. Its stepped battlements give rise to scenes of marauding armies, relentlessly challenging it through generations. Today it stands open to all, beckoning visitors to traverse its ancient walls. ___ Pena Palace Across the hillsides from the Moorish Castle, the colorful facades of the National Palace of Pena emerge through the morning fog. Originally the residence of 9th century Islamic Moorish rulers, it was later captured by Portugal’s first king, Afonso Henriques, The Conqueror in the 12th century. The playful, present day melange of Gothic, Manueline, Moorish and Mudéjar architectural styles were added in the 15th and 16th centuries. Inside and out, the palace and it’s nearby gardens are a royal dazzle for the eye. Testament to its strategic hilltop-near-the-sea location, fog and mist add mystery to timeless charm. A feathered patrol paddles the meandering ponds like royal sentries while expressive gargoyles oversee the higher grounds. ___ Storybook Storefronts It’s not just about castles and royals in Sintra, as the townsfolk illustrate with genuine warmth. I am drawn to the little shops and cafes clustered along the hill in storybook fashion. The charm is rendered in tile mosaics on shop walls and spelled out on steps leading to their doors. ___ Quinta da Regaleira There are many extravagant palaces in Sintra whose soaring spires punctuate the sky, but this tower points down 27-meters into the ground like an inverted tower. Imagine the dark, medieval dampness below ground as you descend the spiral staircase alone, blindfolded, a sword held close to your heart. Nine flights of stairs into the earth – a number that represents the nine founders of the mysterious Templar order, you reach the bottom of the well, not for water, but to walk the dark labyrinth trying to find your way back up towards the light. If you made it you were welcomed as a newly initiated member of the sect. Today, one’s initiation to Quinta da Regaleira includes a lesson in patience as you wait for the crowd to clear before snapping your cinematic moment on the spiral staircase. After all, patience is a virtue, even for Instagrammers. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

A treasure tucked into coastal cliffs, this shelter from the Adriatic draws one in as if by song, to study the striations carved by the ages into the rising reaches of limestone. OMIS, CROATIA A treasure tucked into coastal cliffs, this shelter from the Adriatic draws one in as if by song, to study the striations carved by the ages into the rising reaches of limestone. History by the Sea Before the Cetina river reaches the ocean, it greets this tiny seaside village, 25 kilometers south of Croatia’s second-largest city, Split. Stone walkways are tucked into the folds of rugged seaside cliffs like bookmarks, each making its way up toward gaggles of modest homes and well tended gardens. Views of the river and the glow of the sea come into view the higher one climbs. ___ Rent-A-View Colorful tour boats sit like swans along the shore of the Cetina river where it widens to meet the sea. Handsome boatmen escort visitors upstream to behold its soaring stone cliffs. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

The world’s most remote location from any mainland is also the place on earth that receives the most rainfall, (roughly 450 inches per year). But by any measure, the “Garden Isle” is truly the height of exotic, tropical beauty. KAUAI, HAWAII The world’s most remote location from any mainland is also the place on earth that receives the most rainfall, (roughly 450 inches per year). But by any measure, the “Garden Isle” is truly the height of exotic, tropical beauty. FIVE FAVES / KAUAI Kokee State Park 45 miles of the state’s finest hiking trails wind their way through wet forests and dry ledges, leading to sweeping views of Waimea Canyon and the Napali coast. Cliffsides stand like flanks of bayonets, daring the clouds to advance, eventually forcing a surrender of 70 inches of rainfall annually. Kokee road meanwhile weaves up from the west, arriving within a few easy steps of the most incredible view of them all, the Kalalau Lookout . ___ Limahuli Garden and Preserve A misty canyon cradles a self-sustaining, social-ecological practice known to Hawaiians as “Ahupua”. An ancient tradition where land is divided into “pie slice” parcels, starting at the rain-drenched top point of the island, assuring fresh water flows equitably through terraced farms below as each valley widens towards the sea. “The plants, the people and the place” are equal and essential contributors to its well being. This gorgeous garden also nurtures countless endangered native plants and birds. Visitors are welcome. Reservations are advised. ___ Hanalei Bay The day pulls away like a ship. All of us who remain ashore look forward to its colorful return tomorrow. Just moments ago, the departing sun briefly glazed this beach in gold, as if leaving a parting gift. A treasure that quickly vanished into the Hawaiian twilight. ___ Hanalei Pier It may be called a pier but it’s more like a rough hewn temple, or for some a diving board. Reaching out from the shore, this simple walkway leads to the most magnificent view of paradise, where the clouds applaud a brilliant performance as the sun takes a bow. ___ 1 Hotel Hanalei Bay The sea rolls in, lead by a frothy flank of whitecaps advancing into Hanalei Bay, just as a cappuccino rolls in from room service, sporting its own frothy cap. Such are the synergies of the “Garden Isle”, Kauai, at the dreamy 1 Hotel . ___ Yellowfish Trading Company In this portal to old Hawaii, vintage aloha shirts, mid-mod light fixtures, tiki mugs and Hawaiiana treasures fill the shelves. Opened in 1993 after Hurricane Iniki ransacked the island, this little shop helped restore Kauai with some soulful charm. ___ Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge Life along the Hanalei river is Nature’s denizen within reach. Sun bathing turtles mostly ignore the paddling paparazzi, just as resident birds prioritize breakfast over privacy. Tree branches stretch in yoga poses while a breeze whistles Hawaiian tunes through the leaves. Kayak Hanalei ___ Hawaiian Tiki As a guardian of the heiau, (temple) a tiki warrior represents the manifestation of Mana, the ancient Hawaiian belief that spiritual energy flows through all beings and things, balancing power and strength with serenity and dignity. Hand carved Acacia Koa wood tikis by Havaiki Oceanic and Tribal Art Gallery, Hanalei Center ___ Island Farmers Markets Papayas, mangosteens, guavas, passion fruit (AKA lilikoi), coconuts and apple-bananas. Are we in Eden? Even better, it’s the ever-tempting farmers’ markets on Kauai, where local growers gather under neatly arranged tents to sell their home grown wonders. Our bags runneth over at this heavenly outdoor market just past Waioli Huiia church in Hanalei. ___ Anini Beach Light flickers behind craggy tree branches like Balinese puppetry. Along this magical 2 1/2 mile stretch of sand, the water appears calm but it can be swift and strong, especially out near the reef as it shreds the Pacific. A barrier so effective it can turn the tide into a mirror. Daily theatrics that have played for centuries here on Kauai, an island staged at the furthest distance from any mainland. ___ Shave Ice at Kilauea Fish Market Japanese immigrants, who came to the Islands to work in the sugar and pineapple fields in the mid-1800s introduced the concept of kakigori. Meaning shaved ice. They used their tools to shave flakes off large blocks of ice, and then coated it with sugar or fruit juice. In Pidgin vernacular, the refreshing treat became known as shave ice—not shaved ice. (On Hawaii Island, it’s also called “ice shave”.) Eventually, the ice flakes were fashioned with hand-cranked machines; some stores still operate them today. Shave ice is softly mounded in a cup, or sometimes a cone, and generously drizzled with colorful syrups. Some natural, some not. On Kauai, one can enjoy all-natural fruit syrups at The Fresh Shave in Koloa. The delightful specimen shown here features papaya and lilikoi drizzle + a gummy worm, as served at Kilauea Fish Market , who have clearly mastered more than the art of preparing fabulous fish! ___ Allerton Garden Shifting palm shadows brush the window like hands fussing with a long sheer curtain. An antique poster bed and a well-loved Hawaiian quilt suggest the presence of a grandmother, but this is a gentleman’s bedroom. One of two men who lived here, in this island home, together, amid a tropical garden carved out of a sugarcane valley, between the wars, a world away from judgement. Their guests, actors, artists and heiresses arrived from the mainland by ocean liner. The era of modern air travel was still awaiting take off. About the same time that Georgia O’Keefe immersed herself in New Mexico at Ghost Ranch, fully removed from the modern frenzy of Manhattan, Robert and John Gregg Allerton found themselves at home on the island of Kauai. Their hands deep in Hawaiian soil and their toes in the sand. They wore kimonos at cocktail hour and promenaded like peacocks in gardens of their own design. One of which is a formal, four-cornered “room”,—with no ceiling. Instead, a mural of real sky and clouds overhead. At night it became a ballroom, lit by the stars. Outsmarting the rules of a frowning society, they legalized their relationship with the older Robert adopting John as his son, keeping the dream in the family for half a life longer. Upon John’s passing in 1986, this 80 acre botanical fantasy was left in trust for all to enjoy, now managed by the non-profit National Tropical Botanical Garden . Guided tours by reservation. ___ Hanapepe Swinging Bridge Part wooden bridge, part childhood swing, this creaking span outs one’s inner child. Perhaps this is what walking on a cloud feels like—but with less grace. Its cartoon sway animated further by the bravado of a young brat midway across. The return is easier, having acclimated to instability. Back on land, and walking straight again, follow the turn-of-the-century storefronts to Talk Story Bookstore “the westernmost bookstore in the US”. ___ Waimea Plantation Cottages Not far from the entrance to Waimea Canyon, the sun swept west shore of Kauai feels strangely warm and blustery, having come ‘round the island from the rain-slicked east shore. A place to sink one’s toes in the earth tone sand, or glide across the wide lawn, each blade of grass lazily waving aloha to the setting sun. Pass beneath the reach of banyan tree limbs as they strike a pose like mimes. Here, 59 authentic plantation cottages, once home to field workers in the late 1800s, nestle comfortably on 43-acres of tropical oceanfront. Thoughtfully refurbished, these one-to-five-bedroom cottages welcome their guests with comfortable Hawaii-style furniture, fully equipped kitchens and private lanais at surprisingly affordable rates. Like fingerprints from the past, no two cottages are the same, except in charm. ___ Kilauea Lighthouse Lighthouses keep ships from running aground, but this one kept an airplane from being lost at sea. In 1927, five weeks after Lindbergh’s transatlantic triumph, two Army pilots dared a more difficult navigational feat, the first transpacific flight from California to Hawaii. Aloft for a full day and night, the three-engine “Bird of Paradise” approached the islands before dawn. Shockingly, their compass and directional radio receiver both malfunctioned, leaving the pilots to search the darkened void. Just then, a flash from the Kilauea Lighthouse allowed them to recalibrate their position and land safely on Oahu, 25 hours and 50 mins after taking off from Oakland. Today the lighthouse continues to protect actual “birds of paradise” as a stunning National wildlife refuge. ___ Lumahai Beach As we wind down on our time here on the Garden Isle, we ponder its beauty and power, its fragile environment and ferocious sea. The veil of its natural allure often masks potential peril. While Lumahai Beach is the subject of many postcards and paintings, it is also one of the most dangerous beaches for drownings and not recommended for swimming. Admire and respect its stunning wonder but stay clear of the surf. Now we brush off the sand one last time before heading to the airport. But first, one last look, imagining Mitzi Gaynor singing “I’m gonna wash that man right out of my hair” in the 1958 movie “South Pacific”, filmed right here on Lumahai Beach . ___ INSPIRATION : A touch of the islands for your world at home. Tiki Collectables A warrior’s glare looms, his face paint swirling like typhoons. Meet the defender of tropical kitsch and his clan, here to protect-and-serve tiki drinks. Ah, the allure of swarthy and sweet concoctions –in tiki mugs. The fruits of rum-soaked islands, oceans away. But this languid lore is not limited to imbibing. Tiki mugs also make fun vases and/or colorful, sculptural mantle art. Display the whole unruly tribe as a bookshelf collection! Check out the best in rum-punchy porcelain at tikifarm.com . Imagine an eclectic cache of tikis in one’s own humble hale. The spirit(s) of the south seas, right at home. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Visiting Portugal is like finding a wonderful, affordable bottle of wine. It quickly becomes a new favorite, pouring on the charm from the verdant Douro Valley vineyards in the north, to the bright southern beaches of the Algarve. Discover the country that launched the very meaning of exploration. PORTUGAL Visiting Portugal is like finding a wonderful, affordable bottle of wine. It quickly becomes a new favorite, pouring on the charm from the verdant Douro Valley vineyards in the north, to the bright southern beaches of the Algarve. Discover the country that launched the very meaning of exploration. ALGARVE Glazed in the Light of Centuries Past COIMBRA The "Oxford" of Portugal DOURO RIVER Beauty and Effervescence of Wine Country ÉVORA A Historic Village LISBON Explore the Wonder of this Worldly City PORTO Youthful Spirit Meets an Ancient Past SINTRA A Stunning Storybook Town

Like pearls on an elegant chain, each Hawaiian island glows with unique luster that took ages to form. 8,000 ocean miles from the US mainland, it is hard to grasp that these ruggedly lush islands are part of the United States. A state of incredible natural beauty, that rose from the sea to form its own world. HAWAII Like pearls on an elegant chain, each Hawaiian island glows with unique luster that took ages to form. 8,000 ocean miles from the US mainland, it is hard to grasp that these ruggedly lush islands are part of the United States. A state of incredible natural beauty, that rose from the sea to form its own world. A paradise that eluded discovery until Captain Cook approached its shores in 1778. In its modern incarnation, Hawaii honors its heritage and native language with “talk story” teachings, and blooms anew with the spirit of aloha. KAUAI The Garden Isle OAHU The Gathering Place HAWAII ISLAND (Coming Soon) MAUI (Coming Soon)