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Roman splendor in a modern port city greets seafarers arriving with stories and suntans from the nearby Dalmatian Islands. SPLIT, PORTUGAL Roman splendor in a modern port city greets seafarers arriving with stories and suntans from the nearby Dalmatian Islands. Palace Coup In this bustling port city, modern automobiles and streamlined ships meet Roman antiquity. “Soldiers” in red and gold regalia enliven the piazzas along the waterfront where the skyline is punctuated with ancient columns like in Rome. The city was originally an ancient palace built for the Roman emperor Diocletian at the turn of the fourth century AD. Half for him and half for an army garrison. The “palace” forms about half the old town of Split. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Mystical and mythical, this rolling landscape reaches the roiling sea where history reigns with steadfast pride. The architecture of ancient times fully at home in the present. BRITTANY, FRANCE Mystical and mythical , this rolling landscape reaches the roiling sea where history reigns with steadfast pride. The architecture of ancient times fully at home in the present. Mont Saint-Michel One may spot this soaring pinnacle on the horizon well before reaching the sea that surrounds it at high tide. We first saw it rising above the inland corn fields, its spires reaching up as if to touch the last cloud of a clearing storm. Inside its fortress walls a tiny medieval town terraces upward to the Abbey that crowns the island like a tiara. The inspiration to build a cathedral in such a perilous place, atop a remote rock formation off the Normandy coast, came to Bishop Saint-Aubert in a recurrent dream in 708 AD, eventually realized in all its rustic majesty. We stayed the night on the island and witnessed the evening tide swallow up the vast sandbar below, along with the day’s messages etched by visitors. By sunrise, the sea had pulled back, revealing a blank slate ready for more sand scribes. The ancient stone walls warming now as the morning shadows retreat. ___ “All The Light We Cannot See” in St. Malo "Open your eyes and see what you can with them before they close forever." —from the novel, “All The Light We Cannot See” by Anthony Doerr, which takes place during the Nazi occupation of France, featuring a young blind girl, who flees war torn Paris to shelter with her uncle in St. Malo. This walled Medieval city on the northern shore of Brittany has endured loss beyond measure, but stands as a symbol of resilience. Bombed beyond recognition during World War II, it rose again to crown the coastline with slender spires, scalloped rooftops and fierce ramparts, all of which now house shops, restaurants and boulangeries, inviting a steady stream of curious visitors. ___ Night and Day in Dinan Rain-slicked cobblestones reflect the warm windows and lanterns of another age, paving a silver night in gold. In any light, Dinan is a hidden treasure in northwestern France, just upstream from St. Malo, at a bend on the Rance river. Incredible to think that this narrow waterfront was once a major port when trading vessels from England and Holland were compact-sized. By the 13th century, as ships grew larger, St Malo’s wide port was developed to take on the job —and the goods. Meanwhile, Dinan grew up gracefully behind stone fortifications, protecting her half-timbered Brittany beauty for future generations, like ours. The sun forces through a persistent rain as one mythical god tries to outdo the other, neither taking into account how easily a rainbow could steal their show. Nonetheless, the exchange continues, presenting village scenes of Dinan in contrasts of squinting brilliance and dampened shadows. Like a watercolor in progress, crisp edges of shops and churches meet the blurred wash of medieval alleyways, forming the image of a place stilled in time. ___ Taden Day Dream The town of Taden is so soft spoken on the map that one might miss it entirely if it weren’t for a dramatic widening of the Rance river at the foot of the village. A landmark easily mistaken for a lake, its calm, mirrored water reaches across the landscape beckoning boaters, kayakers, hikers and day dreamers. ___ Menhir (Stone) of Saint Samson Rising eight phallic meters above nondescript farmland is a granite Stonehenge-like loner, pitched at a 42 degree angle, its four sides aligned to the points of the compass. The nearest source of granite is 4km away, which means a lot of prehistoric muscle was employed to get it here. Archeologists surmise that this “menhir” marked the furthest point inland where the (then) highest tide would reach. Legend has it that if anyone pulls the stone out, seawater will come bubbling up and inundate all of France in a biblical-size flood. Best to look, but not pull! ___ Parc du Thabor, Rennes Rennes, the capital city of Brittany in northwestern France is a sunny college town with a perfect park at its center. The graceful rambles of Parc du Thabor trace the urban hillside, rendering each season into a changing exhibit of color, texture and form. This heart of Bretagne also serves as the main depot for the TGV high speed rail from Paris. >>All aboard! ___ Pointe du Grouin All roads in Britanny eventually reach a quaint town or a sweeping seashore. Both serve great food! At the craggy, end-of-the-earth looking Pointe de Grouin, the sea provides an alfresco bounty that brings out the locals as well as tourists. They depart united in delirious bliss, with some overachievers suffering a temporary food coma and/or sunstroke. But worth it! ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Our top five favorite things to do in the wine country of Provence, France. 1 Colors of Roussillon, Provence French rosé in the form of buildings rather than bottles. Visiting the town is like rubbing shoulders with a French Expressionist's palette, its colors literally derived from the local hillsides. ROUSSILLON, PROVENCE 2 Sipping Kir Royales in Aix en Provence The summer daylight hangs on well into happy hour as the "city of a thousand fountains" welcomes the evening. Plant yourself in the middle of it all, like an island in a bubbly stream. AIX EN PROVENCE 3 Lacoste, Provence The Marquis de Sade once called it home. Pierre Cardin called it his , after buying up most of the village. Today, it stands as a stunning example of thoughtful preservation, education and culture. LACOSTE, PROVENCE 4 Market Day in Lourmarin, Provence Morning light inches down ivy walls as vendors set up a truly great street market. Every Friday, a cavalcade of food, flowers, jewelry, art and antiques line the lovely lanes of Lourmarin. LOURMARIN, PROVENCE 5 The Flavors of Bonnieux, Provence Beautifully plated and wonderfully satiated, here, just one hilltop east of Lacoste. Discover the artful bounty that is Bonnieux, a 13th century papal village with palpably modern tastes. BONNIEUX, PROVENCE Back PROVENCE Next

The leading edge of America. A state of the Union shaped like a left-pointing arrow, much like its progressive mindset. Where the past is thoughtfully preserved and the future invented. Discover ancient redwoods as tall as the sky, beaches as blond as local surfers, deserts that stand-in for Mars, mountains shaped like dinosaur spines, and jewel box cites that sparkle like stars. CALIFORNIA The leading edge of America. A state of the Union shaped like a left-pointing arrow, much like its progressive mindset. Where the past is thoughtfully preserved and the future invented. Discover ancient redwoods as tall as the sky, beaches as blond as local surfers, deserts that stand-in for Mars, mountains shaped like dinosaur spines, and jewel box cites that sparkle like stars.

Where the sky shines with a swanky glow and the beaches are steeped in casual glamour. MONTENEGRO Where the sky shines with a swanky glow, and the beaches are steeped in casual glamour. Drive along the Adriatic coastline as it winds its way south from Dubrovnik and watch as the rolling hillsides gradually turn into terraced rooflines and patio railings that sketch the outline of modern Montenegro. Just inland from Tivat, an incredible fjord reaches deep upstream, gradually tacking southeast to the ancient village of Kotor. Standing still in time, its Romanesque charm floats like the colorful vessels anchored at its waterfront. From here, venture further south, where the turquoise Adriatic meets the salt and pepper sands of Sveti Stefan, home to the extraordinary Aman Hotel , nestled atop its own island. Quite possibly the most captivating resort location ever.

After a rough-hewn ride in from the Manzanillo (ZLO) airport, the sweeping ocean vistas and stunning architectural forms of the Four Seasons Tamarindo resort suddenly come into view, making an unforgettable impression on the senses. Like finding a black diamond in the sand, this modernist stone, glass and concrete temple dazzles on every level. TAMARINDO, MEXICO After a rough-hewn ride in from the Manzanillo (ZLO) airport, the sweeping ocean vistas and stunning architectural forms of the Four Seasons Tamarindo resort suddenly come into view, making an unforgettable impression on the senses. Like finding a black diamond in the sand, this modernist stone, glass and concrete temple dazzles on every level. Costalegre - Coast of Joy Costalegre is a magical, hidden region of Jalisco, Mexico. A perfect stretch of unspoiled coastline, south of Puerto Vallarta, revered for its pristine beauty, rugged landscapes and peaceful bliss. Five of Mexico’s most respected design firms, together envisioned a resort that blends seamlessly into the peninsula’s tranquility. Nestled within a private nature reserve, Tamarindo is a sanctuary that honors Mexico’s rich cultural traditions, and provides guests with immersive experiences that delight and enlighten. Or, just immerse in the pool and sip on some of the creative achievements from the bar! ___ An Unforgettable Entrance The lobby of the Four Seasons Tamarindo seems to defy gravity as the massive concrete structure hovers like a hummingbird, cantilevered over the landscape—while also blending into it. Modernist shapes extend like wings while infinity pools flutter in concert with the sea. Each time entering this open air gateway, one is reminded of that breathtaking moment upon first arrival. An epiphany repeated throughout one’s stay. ___ Swim-up Fantasy Azure pools seem to meld with the matching sea. Like one’s own ocean, lapping right up to the edge of your lounger. Terraces trace the hillside as it ambles down to the beach, each level defined with pools so inviting that you may never make it to the sand. The sunlight sparkles on the water like sequins as one hears the sea whisper “may I get you a margarita?”. Or was that the waiter? Hard to tell when swimming in a dream. ___ Private Paradise From the rather excellent viewpoint of our suite’s poolside hammock, I watch as a butterfly flits about at alternating altitudes, seemingly flummoxed by the abundant choices. Much like the decision-making we’re tasked with today: choosing between a spa treatment, a beach walk, the tortilla-making class, or maybe just staying in the room, wearing cushy robes and reading books atop the fluffy cloud known as the Four Seasons Signature bed . Best to rinse off such indecision under the sparkling spritz of our outdoor shower. A single ray of sunlight sneaks a peek into the privacy of our wet-room balcony, afloat over the sea bluffs like that breezy butterfly. ___ Architecture Local textures, contours and colors serve as design guidelines for the architecture of Tamarindo. Details found in the natural environment here are thoughtfully interpreted in the structures’ forms and surfaces. Native stone dramatically frame passageways, some inspired by sea caves. Blue tiles line every pool, dovetailing seamlessly with the color of sea, as if as one body of water. Architects Victor Legorreta , Mauricio Rocha and Mario Schjetnan of LegoRocha designed the resort and the neighboring private residences. The exquisite minimalist interiors are the work of Uribe Krayer and Estudio Esterlina . The inspired natural landscapes were crafted by the gifted Mario Schjetnan . ___ Image courtesy of Four Seasons Resort Tamarindo Savoring Tamarindo One soon becomes familiar with the resident tres amigos of fine food options, Coyul , Sal & Nacho . Coyul feels like home with its sweet staff and comfy seating welcoming you with open (air) arms. A setting so impressive one must remember to eat–which is easy given the unbelievable Rosetta pastries by morning and scrumptious hand-made Mexican favorites at lunch and dinner. Then there’s Sal, a shell’s throw above the surf, with unparalleled fresh fish and seafood, the source of which is rolling by right in front of you. Nacho Taqueria is our favorite secret spot, slyly tucked away on a stone terrace, pumping out great music, creative cocktails and amazing tacos. Or, simply remain in your swim suits and dine in-room! ___ Divine History Class convenes today at happy hour. Our professor/sommelier enthralls us with an exploration of Mexico's past as charted by the proliferation of winemaking through the centuries. With each informative sip, we learn about Mexico’s oldest wine-producing regions and traditions of the craft. Carefully selected wines from Guanajuato, San Luis Potosí and Coahuila lead us along the Real de Tierra Adentro, complete with a leather treasure map unrolled beneath rows of shimmering stemware backlit by the retiring sun. Our thirst for knowledge quenched just in time for dinner—with an enhanced appreciation of the wine list. ___ Imbibing Perfection There’s something about the twist of a lemon rind, with its hypnotic spritz of citrus scenting the chilled edge of one’s glass. The misty crescendo of cocktail crafting. During this magic show, the ocean appears to fill our glasses as it undulates in the distance, framing the talented conjurer behind the bar. The horizon is bright, like a light box waiting for images of soon-cherished moments to be added. Our tapered stemware mimics the pool umbrellas, filtering the lazy light at dusk here at the Coyul bar. ___ Breakfast on the Bluff To shed some recently-acquired calories, we schedule an early morning hike through the Tamarindo private nature preserve. We are greeted by our guide as the dawn makes quick work of the “darkest hour”, sending a zillion stars packing. Our path winds through the protected jungle, as unique tree and bird species are ID’d along the way. Soon the view opens to the El Tamarindo Golf Course where the morning sky arches overhead. A deep arroyo reveals the course’s majestic seaside Par 3, 9th hole. We, however are not here to swack egg-size balls. Our trophy is a spectacular post-hike Four Seasons “breakfast-anywhere” private picnic, thoughtfully prepared atop a serene sea bluff. We reflect on the morning’s invigorating nature excursion as we resume our exercise in indulgence with fresh croissants, fruit, charcuterie and coffee. ___ La Playa For Ya The beach at Tamarindo is a quick golf cart ride from room-to-lounger. If they know you’re coming they’ll have your Aperol Spritz waiting for you. Lunch too, served at your shaded stakeout in beachy bento boxes. The bay laps in like a lake with its gentle waves and wide crescent shore that seems to reach all the way up to LA. The water is warm and welcoming, as is the sand, with an array of spiral and scalloped shells enjoying their long-awaited shore leave. Possible souvenirs of a perfect day in the Jalisco surf and sun. ___ Nature of Tamarindo Hawks and gulls hang on the breeze overhead, as migrating whales are sighted in the distance spouting salt spray into the air. Down on the beach, tiny crabs dash sideways between the whitewater and their personal safety portals. The impressive 3,000 acre nature preserve that surrounds the resort like a botanical moat is being “rewilded” by a dedicated team of on-site biologists and conservationists to restore the jungle’s natural rhythms and to protect its wildlife. White-throated Magpie Jays with incredible long blue feathered tails and singing Collared-Forest Falcons cohabit in the branches of a Tescalame tree which, curiously, grows horizontally. ___ Image courtesy of Four Seasons Resort Tamarindo Ahhh, The Spa The Four Seasons Tamarindo Spa is a masterpiece of architectural design that exudes relaxation and contemplation. Minimalist open-air courtyards bring to mind the Zen gardens of Kyoto, while the sound of water slipping over etched stone transports the soul to a gentle creek in the Redwoods. The spa personnel are cheerful and gentle, inviting guests to feel at home in this simple elegance, where architectural prowess inspires personal renewal. ___ The Shop Such a delight to enter a beautifully designed retail space with soaring ceilings and light-inviting windows showcasing a collection of thoughtfully-curated wares. Adjoining the open-air Tamarindo lobby, the store becomes a favorite stop on one’s daily commute to paradise. Every piece on display, be it jewelry, ceramics or garment is hand-made in Mexico. More than a “gift shop”, it serves as a comprehensive design exhibition of Mexican creative talent. One craftsperson, we’re told, is a young girl who grew up blind but taught herself the art of ceramics. Her whimsical animal-themed bowls featured throughout the store bring light and levity to the world. ___ SPOTLIGHT: Tortilla Talent Scouting In Mexico, behind every great meal is a great tortilla. A corn tortilla. It may look simple, perfectly round and plain, but such minimalism is indeed art. And like any artform, it requires passion, precision (and tricep strength). With tortillas, it all starts with a kernel of knowledge about softening the gravel-like key ingredient to grind it into a paste. Just like most of us, a good long soak in a warm bath takes the fight out of the corn. Then on to the massage table known as the “metate”, an ancient stone + rolling pin device still favored today for pulverizing the toughest corn into a workable substance. That is, if one has the rippling musculature for the job. (A half a glass of Rosé helps fuel our needed gusto boost). Then it’s roll-baby, roll! One may settle into a meditative corn-crushing groove until gently cajoled back to reality by Tamarindo’s resident tortilla master who is tasked with teaching us the subtleties of this revered kitchen tradition. Next it’s press-time. We roll our corn mush into palm-sized balls and place them on a wood press that clamps down upon the subject like printing Gutenberg bibles. Release the pressure and voila, a perfectly round raw tortilla is formed! Now try getting said round, thin, flat and sticky tortilla off the press and on to the wood-fired “comal” that looks like a fiery kettle drum, flames shooting out from underneath its floured surface. But after a few tries we manage to pull it off, literally. We drop our objects d’art on the searing surface and watch as they bubble and lightly brown. We quickly find out though that flipping the tortilla without burning one’s fingertips is also an art. One that the rest of our rosé can’t help. We let the master flip them. Now it’s time to add variety. We crank out more tortillas, one batch topped with cheese, another with mushrooms, and finally, my personal favorite, the toile-like cilantro festooned tortilla, with each green leaf baked-in like inlay. As class is dismissed, our graduation is celebrated with a toast and a tasting of our corn creations. This new-found tortilla-enlightening now tops our list of the (many) pleasures of Tamarindo. Corn Heritage Cooking Class ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

A sensual quality of life, matched only by its quality of light. Hence, it is home to the world's most famous Impressionist painters. NICE, FRANCE A sensual quality of life , matched only by its quality of light. Hence, being home to the world’s most famous Impressionist painters, lovers and dreamers. Promenade des Anglais “La Prom”, as it’s affectionately known to locals aligns with the 7 km arc of beach where France meets the Mediterranean in Nice. Well-healed Brits in the late 18th century took to wintering here and funded a paved walkway where they might comfortably “promenade” along the sea shore, hence “Promenade des Anglais”. Nowadays anyone from everywhere can appreciate La Prom, where a long walk makes time stand still. Palais de la Méditerranée is a treasured landmark along the seaside Promenade des Anglais. There’s a certain irony to constructing a grand casino in 1929, the year of the great US stock market crash. Indeed this casino on the French Côte d'Azur was built by a wealthy American. It later was designated a historic architectural landmark which saved its beloved facade from modernization. ___ A NICE Lunch on the Beach Nice, with i ts soft, seductive light drew artists such as Matisse, Chagall and Arman to its pebbled shores. Writers too. Nietzsche invested six consecutive winters in Nice, scribing “Thus Spoke Zarathustra”. Chekhov put the final touches on his play “Three Sisters” while living here. And then there are those who just come to hibernate under a white umbrella . Could there be anything more sublime than a lunch of ceviche and salads on the beach in the south of France? With your best friend. A handsome waiter. And French wine, of course. ___ Horizon Lines It is a line that always reads as level. Definitive and grounded, albeit a distant tumult of tides. The horizon is consistent no matter what shore we may see it from. Anywhere in the world, its reassuring balance looks the same. Not to be outdone, the sky here in Nice also brings on its game, sweeping across the steadfast sea in a dazzling glint of Côte d’Azur glamour. Spotlighting the unique and creative souls who are drawn to this line in the sand. ___ Nice. Moments. Strolling the streets of old town Nice becomes a simultaneous study of ancient and nouveau France. Contemporary life moves easily amid the old stone façades long frozen in time. Each era accommodating the other like a well coordinated stage play with diverse characters, cultures, ages and interests. ___ Eden en Nice An afternoon breeze slips through the sheer white curtains that catch shadows from the garden. The town of Nice itself is a garden. An Eden more about pears and champagne than apples. Temptation here is to stay in, when one’s momentary haven is a Belle Époque space such as this. See Airbnb link for Nice, France: “Lavish Garden Apt in Belle Epoque Listed Palace” . ___ Tête de Moine at Lavomatique Literally translated as “monk’s head”, this scrumptious fromage is spiral-grated off a small round of Alpine Swiss into a dreamy, brainy-looking flower, assembled one petal at a time into a most edible full bloom. Accompanied by the ubiquitous baguette and the essential wine du jour. Lavomatique : Address : 11 Rue du Pont Vieux, 06300 Nice, France Phone : +33 4 93 55 54 18 ___ A Night in Nice The moon is full and creepy beautiful as it slips over the rooftops like a thief, stealing its way into the clouds. The sky is silent and monochrome, but the town is aglow and crackling in all the colors of a holiday hearth. Pull up a chair here on a cobbled old town street and warm the night with some red wine and the spark of where tomorrow may lead. ___ SPOTLIGHT: La Fondation Maeght, Saint-Paul de Vence (16 miles north of Nice) In the late 1950’s two visionary art dealers dreamed of forming an arts collective with some of the world’s most talented painters and sculptors. You know, like building a tree house with friends. In this case, the friends were Georges Braque, Joan Miró and Alberto Giacometti. La Fondation Maeght opened in 1964, the dream child of Aimé and Marguerite Maeght crowning a wooded hillside just north of Nice with light filled galleries and colorful outdoor sculptures. Today, France’s very first private art institution stands like a creative acropolis high above the Côte d'Azur, welcoming art lovers and dreamers. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Our top five favorite things to do in this bustling city of Tokyo, Japan. 1 The Okura Hotel Lobby This triumph of Japanese mid-century design, recently lost to demolition was recreated in a new high rise patterned after the original hotel. A project overseen by the son of the original architect, Yoshiro Taniguchi. THE OKURA HOTEL LOBBY 2 Bookstores Grand spaces with shelves vaulting upward to the sky, or tiny coves of lovingly curated literature. Featured: Ginza Tsutaya Books TOKYO BOOKSTORES 3 Main Bar Brilliant A MadMen setting perfectly preserved inside an otherwise unremarkable hotel. Crisp cocktails crafted with artisanal precision by buttoned-down bartenders straight out of a Stanley Kubrick film. MAIN BAR BRILLIANT 4 Udatsu Sushi Gorgeous dinner served on ceramics by J enny Sh araf (too fun and too talented) — per the ever fabulous David Lee Davis . UDATSU SUSHI 5 Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Center This wonderful shop-lined area of Old Tokyo is now anchored with a fantastic modern wood facade visitors center. Inside the staff is incredibly helpful, including hand-drawn maps to vintage kimono boutiques and Japanese vinyl stores. ASAKUSA CULTURE CENTER Back TOKYO Next

One needs only an afternoon in France, to realize its romance. The sparkle of myriad fountains. The colors of stained glass streaming onto centuries old stone. The rhythm of leaves in long formal gardens, waving in a light breeze as if greeting friends. The gentle pour of rosé into a glass at a street side cafe. The silent gaze of masterworks displayed in museums all across the country. Art. Style. Fashion. Cuisine. Welcome to the unmatched romance of France. FRANCE One needs only an afternoon in France, to realize its romance. The sparkle of myriad fountains. The colors of stained glass streaming onto centuries old stone. The rhythm of leaves in long formal gardens, waving in a light breeze as if greeting friends. The gentle pour of rosé into a glass at a street side cafe. The silent gaze of masterworks displayed in museums all across the country. Art. Style. Fashion. Cuisine. Welcome to the unmatched romance of France.

Like a vertical jewel box, Tokyo dazzles at every angle. Blinking red marker lights define the height and width of all tall buildings for aircraft, giving the skyline a strange visual continuity despite the variety of architectural styles and sizes. TOKYO, JAPAN Like a vertical jewel box, Tokyo dazzles at every angle. Blinking red marker lights define the height and width of all tall buildings for aircraft, giving the skyline a strange visual continuity despite the variety of architectural styles and sizes. FIVE FAVES / TOKYO Shibuya Shuffle The Tokyo cityscape at street level can be impossibly frenetic, even comical in time-lapse, but in contrast to the insane Shibuya crossing, many neighborhoods such as Shinjuku take on a more personal scale and easy-going feel. ___ Tsutaya Books, Ginza Crowning the 6th floor of the Ginza Six shopping center is the remarkable Tsutaya Bookshop . Its skylit atrium illuminates the mind and heart the way a good book does. Art books are presented in an exhilarating space, blending beauty with inspiration. –and a favorite Tokyo photo op. ___ Asakusa Culture and Information Center A tourist bureau so beautifully designed that it itself is a sightseeing attraction! This towering latticework of timber and glass, designed by renowned architect Kengo Kuma is both modest and bold in its design, looking like a stack of wooden buildings from the neighborhood casually piled atop one another. An eclectic monolith that playfully looms over the stunning Sensoji Temple and the charming Asakusa district. ___ d-47 Museum A Japan-themed space exhibiting the designs, products and creative individuality of the island nation's 47 prefectures. Presented on 47 tables, each display focuses on the unique regional artistry and local culture. The namesake d-Department stores and online shops are equally inspiring. ___ Photo by Daici Ano Windows on Ginza Ginza, which means “Place of Silver” has been the main commercial district of Tokyo since the early 17th century, and that still stands today, –literally. The height of wealth here is matched only by its architecture. Timeless luxury brands such as Mikimoto, Louis Vuitton, Dior and Hermes, among others flaunt new gleaming facades, each as gorgeous and distinctive as the wares inside. Mikimoto Ginza 2-chome building Designed by Toyo Ito & Associates, the undersea window shapes appear random but each is precisely sized and positioned to lend structural support, allowing the interior to be column-free. Louis Vuitton / Ginza Wrapped in an undulating glaze of pearlescent glass that references the nearby Tokyo bay, this graceful design is the work of Jun Aoki & Associates with flowing interiors created by Peter Marino. Private Architectural Tour of Ginza ___ Muji Ah, the little heart flutter that happens when one enters a Muji store. Here in Tokyo, this flagship in Ginza really gets the blood pumping with an expanded array of retail, plus an art exhibit space, an irresistible bakery and a Muji hotel to top it all off. Refined design at affordable prices. Shop, sleep, eat and enjoy. ___ The Okura Hotel A tale almost as lovely as the design itself, the Okura Hotel, a masterpiece of Japanese modernism is a triumph of father and son architects, working decades apart. The hotel’s original balance of light and form was the vision of Yoshiro Taniguchi in 1960. After years of neglect, a thoughtful and comprehensive restoration was overseen by his son, Yoshio Taniguchi. Now, in all its modern and airy grace, it appears as though time has stood still since opening day in May, 1962. ___ Kabukiza Theater In 1629, a law was passed in Japan that, to this day has kept women actors from the Kabuki stage, yet there are many female roles in the centuries-old tales portrayed. Instead, male actors train for years to become “onnagata”, crafting an astonishing performance as women. Not so much an imitation of women, but an embodiment of a special artistic convention unique to Kabuki. Another true attribute of Kabuki is “mie”, where a strong pose is struck in “stop-motion” poses, accompanied by loud wooden clapper beats. Not meant to be realistic, this over-the-top tableau freezes a powerful picture of the emotion or conflict. Amazing to watch and to think that it’s been performed this way for centuries, yet continuously adapting to modern times. Including the Kabukiza Theater itself, reimagined by architect Kengo Kuma in 2013. A design that honors tradition, while providing a stage for the future of this art form. ___ Photo by David Davis Photo by Udatsu Sushi Udatsu Sushi “A space that is not just about sushi, but also a place representative of the city of Tokyo; where people from diverse backgrounds can interact and deepen their mutual understanding of each other.” —Chef/owner, Hisashi Udatsu The son of a butcher and next-door neighbor to his hometown’s only sushi restaurant, Hisashi’s young eyes witnessed daily the artistry of Japanese culinary traditions. By age 14, he informed his friends that he will be a chef. Today, Hisashi sets a humble table where storied meals are masterfully staged on dreamy Jenny Sharaf ceramics. ___ Onsen Ryokan Yuen Shinjuku A zen stillness is palpable in this simple but remarkable high rise hotel in Shinjuku. Materials that one would expect in a craftsman home or a temple appear natural in this modern space. An interior path of black slate leads to the spa elevator that escorts guests to the rooftop onsen. A breathtaking spa experience, with its open-air views of Tokyo twinkling under the stars. One’s focus softens in the rising steam of the onsen pool sheltered from any breezes 18 floors above the city. Later, float down a few floors, where one’s bed awaits in the form and feel of a cloud. ___ Raising the Bar (and lowering it) Suntory Lounge Eagle, (top image) a Tokyo classic since the early ‘90’s, this sunken highball bar features a grand staircase descending from street level, fit for a swooning diva’s entrance. Escape the strobing LED night and slip into a chandelier-lit sanctuary where the shaking of chilled Japanese vodka sets the rhythm for conversation and people watching. Main Bar Brilliant (bottom two images) is a swank hideaway in plain sight at the Keio Plaza Hotel in the middle of Shinjuku. If the 1970’s Johnny Carson set had included a bar, it might have looked like this. A modernist grid of brick and wood lines the long, low-slung bar, while round swivel chairs populate the space like orange planets. Tuxedoed bartenders construct perfect cocktails with precision, their surreal presence vaguely familiar, perhaps from a Stanley Kubrick film. ___ Photo by David Davis Shinjuku Golden Gai A tangle of six narrow alleys shingled in a cacophony of neon signs leads to tiny shanty bars with seating for a lucky few. Off each alley are even narrower passageways, barely wide enough for a single person to win their way through. But so worth it! 200+ little bars, clubs and eateries, all squeezed into a maze of unexpected delights. Be respectful with your camera. Taking pictures without permission is frowned upon and could lose you that coveted bar stool. ___ INSPIRATION : A touch of Japan for your world at home. Sparkling Yuzu Gimlet When in Japan, on the winter solstice, consider bathing in yuzu, as is the custom dating back to the early 18th century. But at home, there’s the Yuzu Gimlet, sparking like moonlight in your glass. Originally from central China and Tibet, Yuzu was introduced to Japan and Korea during the Tang dynasty, and its citrusy pleasures quickly squeezed their way worldwide, adding a splash of East-Asia here at home. Recipe: Food & Wine ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next