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The leading edge of America. A state of the Union shaped like a left-pointing arrow, much like its progressive mindset. Where the past is thoughtfully preserved and the future invented. Discover ancient redwoods as tall as the sky, beaches as blond as local surfers, deserts that stand-in for Mars, mountains shaped like dinosaur spines, and jewel box cites that sparkle like stars. CALIFORNIA The leading edge of America. A state of the Union shaped like a left-pointing arrow, much like its progressive mindset. Where the past is thoughtfully preserved and the future invented. Discover ancient redwoods as tall as the sky, beaches as blond as local surfers, deserts that stand-in for Mars, mountains shaped like dinosaur spines, and jewel box cites that sparkle like stars. BIG BEAR LAKE The Height of Rejuvenation HOLLYWOOD Where Dreams Rise Like Champagne Bubbles BEACHES (Coming Soon) CENTRAL COAST (Coming Soon) DESERT CITIES (Coming Soon) GREATER LOS ANGELES (Coming Soon) NORTHERN CA (Coming Soon)

Mystical and mythical, this rolling landscape reaches the roiling sea where history reigns with steadfast pride. The architecture of ancient times fully at home in the present. BRITTANY, FRANCE Mystical and mythical , this rolling landscape reaches the roiling sea where history reigns with steadfast pride. The architecture of ancient times fully at home in the present. Mont Saint-Michel One may spot this soaring pinnacle on the horizon well before reaching the sea that surrounds it at high tide. We first saw it rising above the inland corn fields, its spires reaching up as if to touch the last cloud of a clearing storm. Inside its fortress walls a tiny medieval town terraces upward to the Abbey that crowns the island like a tiara. The inspiration to build a cathedral in such a perilous place, atop a remote rock formation off the Normandy coast, came to Bishop Saint-Aubert in a recurrent dream in 708 AD, eventually realized in all its rustic majesty. We stayed the night on the island and witnessed the evening tide swallow up the vast sandbar below, along with the day’s messages etched by visitors. By sunrise, the sea had pulled back, revealing a blank slate ready for more sand scribes. The ancient stone walls warming now as the morning shadows retreat. ___ “All The Light We Cannot See” in St. Malo "Open your eyes and see what you can with them before they close forever." —from the novel, “All The Light We Cannot See” by Anthony Doerr, which takes place during the Nazi occupation of France, featuring a young blind girl, who flees war torn Paris to shelter with her uncle in St. Malo. This walled Medieval city on the northern shore of Brittany has endured loss beyond measure, but stands as a symbol of resilience. Bombed beyond recognition during World War II, it rose again to crown the coastline with slender spires, scalloped rooftops and fierce ramparts, all of which now house shops, restaurants and boulangeries, inviting a steady stream of curious visitors. ___ Night and Day in Dinan Rain-slicked cobblestones reflect the warm windows and lanterns of another age, paving a silver night in gold. In any light, Dinan is a hidden treasure in northwestern France, just upstream from St. Malo, at a bend on the Rance river. Incredible to think that this narrow waterfront was once a major port when trading vessels from England and Holland were compact-sized. By the 13th century, as ships grew larger, St Malo’s wide port was developed to take on the job —and the goods. Meanwhile, Dinan grew up gracefully behind stone fortifications, protecting her half-timbered Brittany beauty for future generations, like ours. The sun forces through a persistent rain as one mythical god tries to outdo the other, neither taking into account how easily a rainbow could steal their show. Nonetheless, the exchange continues, presenting village scenes of Dinan in contrasts of squinting brilliance and dampened shadows. Like a watercolor in progress, crisp edges of shops and churches meet the blurred wash of medieval alleyways, forming the image of a place stilled in time. ___ Taden Day Dream The town of Taden is so soft spoken on the map that one might miss it entirely if it weren’t for a dramatic widening of the Rance river at the foot of the village. A landmark easily mistaken for a lake, its calm, mirrored water reaches across the landscape beckoning boaters, kayakers, hikers and day dreamers. ___ Menhir (Stone) of Saint Samson Rising eight phallic meters above nondescript farmland is a granite Stonehenge-like loner, pitched at a 42 degree angle, its four sides aligned to the points of the compass. The nearest source of granite is 4km away, which means a lot of prehistoric muscle was employed to get it here. Archeologists surmise that this “menhir” marked the furthest point inland where the (then) highest tide would reach. Legend has it that if anyone pulls the stone out, seawater will come bubbling up and inundate all of France in a biblical-size flood. Best to look, but not pull! ___ Parc du Thabor, Rennes Rennes, the capital city of Brittany in northwestern France is a sunny college town with a perfect park at its center. The graceful rambles of Parc du Thabor trace the urban hillside, rendering each season into a changing exhibit of color, texture and form. This heart of Bretagne also serves as the main depot for the TGV high speed rail from Paris. >>All aboard! ___ Pointe du Grouin All roads in Britanny eventually reach a quaint town or a sweeping seashore. Both serve great food! At the craggy, end-of-the-earth looking Pointe de Grouin, the sea provides an alfresco bounty that brings out the locals as well as tourists. They depart united in delirious bliss, with some overachievers suffering a temporary food coma and/or sunstroke. But worth it! ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Explore the wonder of this worldy city whose welcoming expanse of the Rio Tejo celebrates the explorers who launched their wooden galleons from this very spot in the 15th century in search of the New World. LISBON, PORTUGAL Explore the wonder of this worldy city whose welcoming expanse of the Rio Tejo celebrates the explorers who launched their wooden galleons from this very spot in the 15th century in search of the New World. FIVE FAVES / LISBON The Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology MAAT seems to have just landed like a graceful bird upon this modern gateway to the city. The subjects of art, architecture and technology come together all under one incredible roof. From atop, one beholds a 180 degree view of the river, while just below, an arc of terraced steps offer another perfect perch. ___ Belém Tower All roads (and tiled sidewalks) lead to the the river that launched a thousand dreams. Belém Tower, or the Tower of St. Vincent is a 15th century fortification that symbolized the Portuguese maritime accomplishments of the 15th century. The tower stands at the mouth of the Tagus river, initially as a defense garrison and now as the ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. ___ The Cultural Centre of Belém Across Avenida de Brasília from the fabled Lisbon waterfront, one may discover a new world of contemporary art and innovative architecture. Remarkable exhibits and music await an afternoon’s indulgence at the aforementioned MAAT and, just across the highway, at The Cultural Centre of Belém . This large building houses The Berardo Collection Museum which features various indoor and outdoor galleries exhibiting impressive collections (and the occasional al fresco film screening). Open every day for art lovers —and true loves. Rejuvenate alfresco, at Este Oeste Pizza and Sushi , soaking up its sunny rooftop terrace, reasonably priced delights —and some good rosé! ___ Cross Over, Children! While Lisbon lazes about on its beautiful north shore of the Rio Tejo, a short ferry ride across to the Almada side delivers an even more laid back vibe. What looks like an abandoned waterfront, lined with the remains of old buildings, is surprisingly full of life, delightfully lubricated with Vino Verde’s and serving up unforgettable alfresco dining and sensational views. Best to make a reservation because this quaint discovery hidden away on the ancient docks is actually quite popular, Ristorante Ponto Final and Atira-te ao Rio Restaurante. ___ Pastéis de Nata One of the true pleasures of travel is discovering local edible wonders such as Portugal’s own Pastéis de Nata. Tiny custard tarts that all too easily fit between the thumb and forefinger, enjoyed with an espresso. The much heralded home of these traditional treats is Pastéis de Belém , with its centuries-old secret recipe attributed to kitchen-wizard monks from the Jerónimos Monastery. Understated from the outside, the bakery is a haven of delight on the inside, —indeed a metaphor for their famous bite size treasures. ___ Views from Above The highest point in Lisbon welcomes you not with a herald of bells but with a ringing view of the city. Established in the 1st century BC, the fortification sits atop a steep hillside, crowning the cobbled twists and turns of the Alfama neighborhood. Lisbon is a collection of views awarded to those whose knees can endure the ascent and/or descent. The bell tower of Castelo de Sao Jorge is one such reward, atop the highest hill in the city. Well worth the climb, the fortress defends a 360 panorama of the city and its sparkling River Tagus. One may avoid the multitude of steps, reaching it via taxi or transit, but where’s the sport in that? A fun way to cheat Lisbon’s relentless climbs is the Santa Justa Lift , the Eiffel Tower of Lisbon, (in fact, designed by a student of Gustave Eiffel) was built in 1901. Rising seven stories straight up, its chief purpose is augmenting hundreds upon hundreds of steps to the top of the commanding hill above the Baixa district. ___ Paved in Art Portugal’s ultimate, treasured tradition is tile. Mosaics are everywhere, shimmering on walls and inlaid into sidewalks, illustrating the history and spirit of this stunning country. ___ Stairway to Heaven Zigzag your way up numerous M.C. Escher-esque staircases, or simply elevate yourself aboard the aforementioned Santa Justa Lift to alight upon one of the coolest sights ever, the Carmo Archaeological Museum . A former convent built in 1389, where the heavens are truly part of the place, due to the roof having collapsed in the great Lisbon earthquake of 1755. Now a stunning indoor/outdoor museum with exhibits related to the history of Lisbon from pre-historic times through to the Middle Ages. The gift shop, with its tall windows looking across the city to the Castle is, in itself, worth the trek. ___ Reaching New Heights As the sun goes down, the music comes up on rooftops all across town. Some packed with revealers dancing with both hands signaling the night sky, some quaint (and comparatively quiet) with a half dozen wealthy winos raising toasts. And, on some hilltop terrace, a lone guitarist frets in Portuguese about a girl who is now likely up on the first rooftop. But it’s not all about imbibing and talking rubbish on rooftops. The night also invites the more bookish to indulge in words of the wise. Ler Devagar Bookstore , with shelves stacked to the high ceiling glows from the inside as it beckons passerby to open a new chapter. ___ Inclined to Enjoy The sidewalks of Lisbon dutifully conform to the city’s hillsides, transforming a level (tile-lined) avenue into a challenging set of stairs, ever upward. Lisbon is not for the faint-of-knee, or ankle. But for those not hampered by lower-extremity limitations, it’s an incredibly beautiful city with rewarding views and points of interest at each summit. Count on stairs being part of any walking tour and for that reason, consider visiting Lisbon in the spring or fall because who wants to traverse stairs under an unrelenting summer sun, or the bracing chill of winter? Regardless of the weather, one can always take the yellow trolley and save one’s knees for another day of exploring this romantic city, home to the very term “explorer”, as the launching port for the Age of Discoveries. Often, what we seek in travel is ascent for the mind and soul. In Lisbon, it's literal. Climb to reach a restaurant, a bar, a club. Climb your way to the pinnacle of Lisboa's Boheme groove. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Roman splendor in a modern port city greets seafarers arriving with stories and suntans from the nearby Dalmatian Islands. SPLIT, PORTUGAL Roman splendor in a modern port city greets seafarers arriving with stories and suntans from the nearby Dalmatian Islands. Palace Coup In this bustling port city, modern automobiles and streamlined ships meet Roman antiquity. “Soldiers” in red and gold regalia enliven the piazzas along the waterfront where the skyline is punctuated with ancient columns like in Rome. The city was originally an ancient palace built for the Roman emperor Diocletian at the turn of the fourth century AD. Half for him and half for an army garrison. The “palace” forms about half the old town of Split. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Walk along the waterfront where the sea sparkles brightly between the hulls of yachts and the stemware of several Aperol Spritz. There are few places this near to perfection. CAVTAT, CROATIA Walk along the waterf ront where the sea sparkles brightly between the hulls of yachts and the stemware of several Aperol Spritz. There are few places this near to perfection. Waterfront Fantasy It’s all too easy to miss this small seaport village, just south of its more famous neighbor, Dubrovnik, but once we stumbled onto it, we fell straight into its charms. So began a memorable afternoon romance with a tall and handsome Aperol Spritz, or was it two? We asked our waitress if she knew of any nearby hotels and she pointed to an old inn a few steps away. Hotel Bracka Perla Supetar . We got the last room and cancelled our hotel in Dubrovnik. Then walked around the waterfront in an extended daze amid the dusk light, at one point crossing paths with a flag waving wedding party promenading to the church. ___ SPOTLIGHT: Konoba Koraceva Kuca (11 miles south of Cavtat) An alfresco meal in the courtyard at Konoba Kora c eva Ku c a in Gruda serves the senses like a daydream. Vineyards stretch out from the gravel terrace, as clouds fluffed like tablecloths assemble overhead. A light rosé, aged in cellars from across the valley starts off this story, soon followed by fresh, local fare cooked on an outdoor wood stove, its rich smoke rising to entice the sky. Nestle into your seat because you’re going to be here for a lovely, long while. Across the courtyard, a woman lights a bundle of twigs in the outdoor brick kitchen that will soon grill your fresh fish. Back at the terrace table, overlooking the languid vineyard and soaring mountains beyond, your glass is filled with crisp Croatian white wine, poured with pride by a sinewy waiter who is excited to recite today’s specials in newly-honed English. Each course outdoes the previous. Cheeses arrive first, crowned with a snip of fresh basil. Next, a pillowy butter lettuce salad is tossed with olive oil and slices of apple and nectarine. Then, herbed gnocchi that melts into your dreams. Today’s catch of sea bass floats in, grilled to succulent perfection. Post-nirvana, a flourless almond and citrus cake comes blessed with a crescent of lavender ice cream. Now, in a form of heaven, just walk the garden, to breathe and to ponder such delights. Konoba Koraceva Kuca Korac street, 20215, Gruda, Croatia Phone: +385 20 791 557 ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Our top five favorite things to do in this bustling city of Tokyo, Japan. 1 The Okura Hotel Lobby This triumph of Japanese mid-century design, recently lost to demolition was recreated in a new high rise patterned after the original hotel. A project overseen by the son of the original architect, Yoshiro Taniguchi. TOKYO, JAPAN 2 Tokyo Bookstores Grand spaces with shelves vaulting upward to the sky, or tiny coves of lovingly curated literature. Featured: Ginza Tsutaya Books TOKYO, JAPAN 3 Main Bar Brilliant A MadMen setting perfectly preserved inside an otherwise unremarkable hotel. Crisp cocktails crafted with artisanal precision by buttoned-down bartenders straight out of a Stanley Kubrick film. TOKYO, JAPAN 4 Udatsu Sushi Gorgeous dinner served on ceramics by Jenny Sharaf (too fun and too talented) — per the ever fabulous David Lee Davis . TOKYO, JAPAN 5 Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Center This wonderful shop-lined area of Old Tokyo is now anchored with a fantastic modern wood facade visitors center. Inside the staff is incredibly helpful, including hand-drawn maps to vintage kimono boutiques and Japanese vinyl stores. TOKYO, JAPAN Back FIVE FAVES Next

Quick lists of our five favorite things to do in the most captivating places. Five Faves Explore from A-Z by CITY. Big Bear Lake, CA Kauai, Hawaii Kyoto, Japan Lisbon, Portugal México City, México Oahu, HI Paris, France Porto, Portugal Provence, France Tokyo, Japan

A sensual quality of life, matched only by its quality of light. Hence, it is home to the world's most famous Impressionist painters. NICE, FRANCE A sensual quality of life , matched only by its quality of light. Hence, being home to the world’s most famous Impressionist painters, lovers and dreamers. Promenade des Anglais “La Prom”, as it’s affectionately known to locals aligns with the 7 km arc of beach where France meets the Mediterranean in Nice. Well-healed Brits in the late 18th century took to wintering here and funded a paved walkway where they might comfortably “promenade” along the sea shore, hence “Promenade des Anglais”. Nowadays anyone from everywhere can appreciate La Prom, where a long walk makes time stand still. Palais de la Méditerranée is a treasured landmark along the seaside Promenade des Anglais. There’s a certain irony to constructing a grand casino in 1929, the year of the great US stock market crash. Indeed this casino on the French Côte d'Azur was built by a wealthy American. It later was designated a historic architectural landmark which saved its beloved facade from modernization. ___ A NICE Lunch on the Beach Nice, with i ts soft, seductive light drew artists such as Matisse, Chagall and Arman to its pebbled shores. Writers too. Nietzsche invested six consecutive winters in Nice, scribing “Thus Spoke Zarathustra”. Chekhov put the final touches on his play “Three Sisters” while living here. And then there are those who just come to hibernate under a white umbrella . Could there be anything more sublime than a lunch of ceviche and salads on the beach in the south of France? With your best friend. A handsome waiter. And French wine, of course. ___ Horizon Lines It is a line that always reads as level. Definitive and grounded, albeit a distant tumult of tides. The horizon is consistent no matter what shore we may see it from. Anywhere in the world, its reassuring balance looks the same. Not to be outdone, the sky here in Nice also brings on its game, sweeping across the steadfast sea in a dazzling glint of Côte d’Azur glamour. Spotlighting the unique and creative souls who are drawn to this line in the sand. ___ Nice. Moments. Strolling the streets of old town Nice becomes a simultaneous study of ancient and nouveau France. Contemporary life moves easily amid the old stone façades long frozen in time. Each era accommodating the other like a well coordinated stage play with diverse characters, cultures, ages and interests. ___ Eden en Nice An afternoon breeze slips through the sheer white curtains that catch shadows from the garden. The town of Nice itself is a garden. An Eden more about pears and champagne than apples. Temptation here is to stay in, when one’s momentary haven is a Belle Époque space such as this. See Airbnb link for Nice, France: “Lavish Garden Apt in Belle Epoque Listed Palace” . ___ Tête de Moine at Lavomatique Literally translated as “monk’s head”, this scrumptious fromage is spiral-grated off a small round of Alpine Swiss into a dreamy, brainy-looking flower, assembled one petal at a time into a most edible full bloom. Accompanied by the ubiquitous baguette and the essential wine du jour. Lavomatique : Address : 11 Rue du Pont Vieux, 06300 Nice, France Phone : +33 4 93 55 54 18 ___ A Night in Nice The moon is full and creepy beautiful as it slips over the rooftops like a thief, stealing its way into the clouds. The sky is silent and monochrome, but the town is aglow and crackling in all the colors of a holiday hearth. Pull up a chair here on a cobbled old town street and warm the night with some red wine and the spark of where tomorrow may lead. ___ SPOTLIGHT: La Fondation Maeght, Saint-Paul de Vence (16 miles north of Nice) In the late 1950’s two visionary art dealers dreamed of forming an arts collective with some of the world’s most talented painters and sculptors. You know, like building a tree house with friends. In this case, the friends were Georges Braque, Joan Miró and Alberto Giacometti. La Fondation Maeght opened in 1964, the dream child of Aimé and Marguerite Maeght crowning a wooded hillside just north of Nice with light filled galleries and colorful outdoor sculptures. Today, France’s very first private art institution stands like a creative acropolis high above the Côte d'Azur, welcoming art lovers and dreamers. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Where dreams rise like champagne bubbles ...or languish like shipwrecks. Either way, the allure of this industry town remains irresistible and its imprint indelible. HOLLYWOOD, CALIFORNIA Where dreams rise like champagne bubbles ...or languish like shipwrecks. Either way, the allure of this industry town remains irresistible and its imprint indelible. Paramount Studios Tour Some movie studio tours are like amusement park rides, complete with thrills and spills, but the Paramount Studios Tour is a true backstage pass. This walking-and-golf-cart exploration quickly confirms Paramount as the original home of movie magic, (proudly noting it’s the only major studio with a view of the HOLLYWOOD sign). Right out of the gate, (literally) we’re immersed in film history, as we walk through the very Bronson gate where Norma Desmond, famously declared “without me there wouldn’t be any Paramount Studios!” in the film noir classic “Sunset Boulevard”. The New York backlot is so convincing one might crave a bagel, despite the surreal backdrop of palm trees. Peering into the cavernous darkness of Stage 18 one learns that Alfred Hitchcock poked the floorboards with his walking stick and demanded they be removed to accommodate the tall set for “Rear Window” with its courtyard apartments built to scale. Then there’s Stage 1, where Orson Welles shot “Citizen Kane”. The VIP tour takes you inside the archive vault for a deeper dive into cinematic lore. The grand finale is the fantastic Paramount prop room filled with curiosities one might expect to find in Tim Burton’s garage. ___ Yo-Yo Ma at the Hollywood Bowl Like a clam shell presenting its pearl, the Hollywood Bowl is a treasured gift for great performers and fortunate audiences. Opened in 1929, the concentric arches rising over its iconic stage host the LA Philharmonic’s summer performances as well as a steady stream of stars shining under the evening sky. Here, Cellist Yo-Yo Ma single-handedly captivated the crowd playing the Bach Suites, straight through from memory. A composition written 300 years ago, conjured to life in this stellar setting by a modern master. ___ Once Upon A Time In Hollywood… The oldest restaurant in LA, The Musso & Frank Grill —since 1919 remains largely unchanged after 100+ years, yet is more popular today than ever. Many of the adored staff are “lifer’s”, one of whom, Alonso recently retired after 48 years. It is said that Charlie Chaplin would challenge Douglas Fairbanks to a horse race down Hollywood Boulevard, and the winner had to pick up the tab at Musso’s. Ah, the price of victory! To quote Michael Callahan’s book chronicling its history, “Musso’s became the clubhouse for the most peculiar band of misfits that rotated through Hollywood’s golden age –writers.” F. Scott Fitzgerald proofread his novels at a booth at Musso’s. William Faulkner met his mistress of 20 years here. Raymond Chandler wrote chapters of “The Big Sleep” while sipping cocktails in the Back Room. T.S. Elliot, Aldous Huxley, John Steinbeck and Dorothy Parker all called the Musso’s bar “home” while Anaïs Nin penned some of her diaries on that hallowed wood. Humphrey Bogart stood mesmerized by Lauren Bacall at the bar, and, I personally witnessed a similar swoon as Madonna studied Sean Penn’s eyes in a booth to themselves. TIP: always look into every booth as you’re escorted to your table. Chances are you’ll encounter some very famous faces only slightly hidden behind martini glasses. ___ Cinespia at Hollywood Forever Classic films come back to life under the stars at Hollywood Forever cemetery. Cinespia offers summer weekend screenings, al fresco on the vast Fairbanks Lawn, so named for the adjacent crypt housing both Douglas Fairbanks, Sr. and Jr. An eclectic range of films are projected onto the west wall of the Cathedral Mausoleum, which houses the crypt of Rudolph Valentino among many other notables of celluloid lore. A few steps away, Johnny Ramone plays on from atop his crypt. Bring a picnic blanket and all the trimmings, but come early to stake out your plot! ___ Hollyhock House “With a radical client like Miss Barnsdall, a site like Olive Hill, a climate like California, an architect head on for freedom, something had to happen…” —Frank Lloyd Wright Architect, Frank Lloyd Wright channeled the magnificence of Mayan temples in this 1921 home that transcended all convention for residential design. Rising just above the sparkle of Hollywood, Hollyhock House crowns Olive Hill, now known as Barnsdall Art Park , a gathering place for talent of all ages, origins and interests. Founded by the estate of Aline Barnsdall, the original owner of the home, an eccentric eastern aristocrat with a penchant for the arts. ___ Rooftop Hollywood Several new hotels line the boulevards like Oscars with flat tops. Each one crowned with a jewel sized pool. Up here, the sky becomes a silver screen as the ocean air pulls across. Drinks float on the tattooed arms of waiters who silently recite lines for tomorrow’s audition. Shadows that lounged all day under yellow umbrellas vanish as the sun finds its seat. Thompson Hotel Hollywood The Godfrey Hotel Hollywood Dream Hotels The Everly Hollywood W Hollywood ___ Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel Pool Aqua water quivers like David Hockney brush strokes, mirroring the actual swirls he famously painted on the bottom of the pool here in 1988 with a paintbrush tied to a broom handle. An Olympic sized rectangle that stretches out like swimmer’s legs across a mid century courtyard. The Roosevelt pool deck has seen it all. Debauchery, dreams. deals and divas. Bikinis, mojitos, burgers and fries, all together under the brilliant beige sky, where one’s afternoon plans drift away like pool floats. ___ Hiking Hollywood Griffith Park is the largest municipal park in the US. 50 miles of trails wiggle through folding hillsides that form a diorama of the Southern California landscape, —right in the middle of the city. Here, LA’s best hikes lead to the top of Mt Hollywood where sweeping views to the west crescendo at the edge of the sea. A silver sheen of ocean air softens the horizon, while, off to the east, downtown LA rises like Oz. Four times the size of San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park and five times the size of Central Park in New York, Griffith Park boasts 4300+ acres of rugged, (and often star studded) scenery. ___ Hollywood Mixology A whisper of Vermouth meets the mist of lemon, consummating a classic Hollywood relationship. There’s something about stemware that puts dreams on a pedestal while elevating the moment. Similarly, a ring of sea salt bestows upon a proper Paloma its well deserved crown. The night is young and well served, under the stars at Superba on Sunset, or at the bar at The Musso & Frank Grill or embraced in a sumptuous booth at Mes Amis where your table is set like a movie scene at Thompson Hotel Hollywood . ___ Vetting Hollywood Bette Davis famously quipped when asked what’s the best way for an aspiring actress to get into Hollywood?, “Take Fountain”. Indeed Fountain Ave is the quickest route, but I take Bette’s advice a little further north to “Franklin Ave.”, an east/west thoroughfare stretched like a guitar string across Hollywood. Along the way is Franklin Village, a fun few blocks studded with eclectic gems like Upright Citizens Brigade comedy club, Counterpoint Records & Books , and the essential Daily Planet Newsstand . Park your Corvette in front of Birds Hollywood , a favorite roost for rotisserie chicken lovers since 1994, where one’s pet may also enjoy a proper meal of pulled chicken served in a paper cup. Finally, indulge the “Last Cappuccino before the 101” at Clark Street Diner the classic Hollywood diner, immortalized in the 1996 film "Swingers", just a pancake throw from the almost-hidden Hollywood Freeway on-ramps at Argyle Ave. ___ Ephemeral Glamour Hollywood fame is like makeup. Stunning, and fleeting. Stars shine, until they fade. Some are reborn as lookalikes. Dead stars walking. The boulevard is graced with their likenesses. Painted. Glowing. Some in life-size, some supersized. Some are actually alive, even as they shoot themselves in the foot protesting an improper omelette. Yet still they shine. ___ The HOLLYWOOD Sign In 1923, Los Angeles Times publisher Harry Chandler spent $21,000. to erect a billboard for his hillside real estate development dubbed HOLLYWOODLAND. In contrast with Chandler’s lofty vision, down-on-her-luck actress, Peg Entwistle leapt to her death from atop the “H” in 1932. A decade later, the letters “LAND” met their own demise as the development went belly up, leaving “HOLLYWOOD” spelling out neglect and decay. In 1977, Hugh Hefner hosted a gala fundraiser at the Playboy Mansion, where the Sign letters were auctioned off, one at a time for $27,700 each. Glam-rocker Alice Cooper “bought” an “O” (in honor of Groucho Marx). Gene Autry got an “L” and Andy Williams snatched up the “W.” Thanks to these sponsors, a brand new sign was born in 1978, taking its place in history as the world’s most famous outdoor signage. ___ Hollywood Shadow Project A captivating series of seven installations located throughout the production area of Hollywood projected iconic movie scenes and titles in a whole new light. Late afternoon sunlight passes through these sculptures that resemble old billboards, casting silhouetted shadows onto neighboring buildings at movie screen sizes. Like so much about Hollywood, the fantasy is fleeting, with most of the 2001 sculptures now having been taken down in the process of modernizing tinseltown. Cameron McNall , Architect ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Where the sky shines with a swanky glow and the beaches are steeped in casual glamour. MONTENEGRO Where the sky shines with a swanky glow, and the beaches are steeped in casual glamour. Drive along the Adriatic coastline as it winds its way south from Dubrovnik and watch as the rolling hillsides gradually turn into terraced rooflines and patio railings that sketch the outline of modern Montenegro. Just inland from Tivat, an incredible fjord reaches deep upstream, gradually tacking southeast to the ancient village of Kotor. Standing still in time, its Romanesque charm floats like the colorful vessels anchored at its waterfront. From here, venture further south, where the turquoise Adriatic meets the salt and pepper sands of Sveti Stefan, home to the extraordinary Aman Hotel , nestled atop its own island. Quite possibly the most captivating resort location ever. KOTOR A Medieval Jewel SVETI STEFAN Islet in the Sun