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Croatia reclines along the Adriatic like an easygoing neighbor. Just 100 nautical miles from Italy, hard-won pride resonates where not so long ago, fierce fighting shuddered the nation in a protracted battle for independence. CROATIA Croatia reclines along the Adriatic like an easygoing neighbor. Just 100 nautical miles from Italy, hard-won pride resonates where not so long ago, fierce fighting shuddered the nation in a protracted battle for independence. Today its bucolic landscape and well preserved architectural heritage welcomes all with the warmth of a grandma’s embrace. CAVTAT Walk Along the Waterfront DUBROVNIK Explore a Medieval Magical Wonder OMIS A Treasure Tucked into Coastal Cliffs SPLIT Roman Splendor in a Modern Port City VIS ISLAND Indulge in Timeless Charm

Walk along the waterfront where the sea sparkles brightly between the hulls of yachts and the stemware of several Aperol Spritz. There are few places this near to perfection. CAVTAT, CROATIA Walk along the waterf ront where the sea sparkles brightly between the hulls of yachts and the stemware of several Aperol Spritz. There are few places this near to perfection. Waterfront Fantasy It’s all too easy to miss this small seaport village, just south of its more famous neighbor, Dubrovnik, but once we stumbled onto it, we fell straight into its charms. So began a memorable afternoon romance with a tall and handsome Aperol Spritz, or was it two? We asked our waitress if she knew of any nearby hotels and she pointed to an old inn a few steps away. Hotel Bracka Perla Supetar . We got the last room and cancelled our hotel in Dubrovnik. Then walked around the waterfront in an extended daze amid the dusk light, at one point crossing paths with a flag waving wedding party promenading to the church. ___ SPOTLIGHT: Konoba Koraceva Kuca (11 miles south of Cavtat) An alfresco meal in the courtyard at Konoba Kora c eva Ku c a in Gruda serves the senses like a daydream. Vineyards stretch out from the gravel terrace, as clouds fluffed like tablecloths assemble overhead. A light rosé, aged in cellars from across the valley starts off this story, soon followed by fresh, local fare cooked on an outdoor wood stove, its rich smoke rising to entice the sky. Nestle into your seat because you’re going to be here for a lovely, long while. Across the courtyard, a woman lights a bundle of twigs in the outdoor brick kitchen that will soon grill your fresh fish. Back at the terrace table, overlooking the languid vineyard and soaring mountains beyond, your glass is filled with crisp Croatian white wine, poured with pride by a sinewy waiter who is excited to recite today’s specials in newly-honed English. Each course outdoes the previous. Cheeses arrive first, crowned with a snip of fresh basil. Next, a pillowy butter lettuce salad is tossed with olive oil and slices of apple and nectarine. Then, herbed gnocchi that melts into your dreams. Today’s catch of sea bass floats in, grilled to succulent perfection. Post-nirvana, a flourless almond and citrus cake comes blessed with a crescent of lavender ice cream. Now, in a form of heaven, just walk the garden, to breathe and to ponder such delights. Konoba Koraceva Kuca Korac street, 20215, Gruda, Croatia Phone: +385 20 791 557 ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

The beauty and effervescence of wine country runs deep in the Douro River Valley. The river flows gently, like vino verde into your glass, sparkling at the foot of steep stepped hillsides that climb like vines towards the sky. DOURO RIVER, PORTUGAL The beauty and effervescence of wine country runs deep in the Douro River Valley. The river flows gently, like vino verde into your glass, sparkling at the foot of steep stepped hillsides that climb like vines towards the sky. Uncorking Portugal’s Wine Country Arrive by train, or boat, or car, but no matter your desired conveyance, the river will guide you. It is central to the magic of this region. We like the vintage steam train with its billowing cumulus floating briefly over the river, as we chug along its bends and curves. Rows of grape vines flash by, blending into the ripples on the water. Bathers, tucked in to tranquil river eddies wave as we roll by with a whistle heralding our arrival. ___ An Artisanal Landscape Casa dos Viscondes is splayed out across the landscape like a welcoming picnic blanket, complete with the basket of delights. A long driveway leads through the gates and builds with excitement as we wind our way past the vineyards to the main house. Glorious views open onto the hills as cloud shadows make their way like watercolor animation. ___ Reasons to Howl Here the day goes by with little notice of the time. Especially for the master of the Casa, holding court on the front steps, who assumes guests will make the hurdle over his reddish haunches. In the nearby town of Peso da Régua, shop walls are lined with wine bottled bookshelves like studious libraries. ___ Days of Heaven Like in a daydream, our hotel lay nestled in the folds of steep hillside vineyards along the Douro River, just a few beautiful hours upstream from Porto via train or boat. Once settled in, a long turquoise pool awaits, framed by a summer lawn as warm and soft as a fresh towel. The day is topped off with the crisp delight of local vino verde. The hot sun will soon cool behind the trees as dinner is readied up at the main house. Its stone terrace setting the stage for moonlit retellings of the days’ adventures. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Islet in the Sun. Curled up on the shore like a curvaceous starlet, this arc of red and white sand is a sumptuous and cinematic dream come true. SVETI STEFAN, MONTENEGRO Islet in the Sun. Curled up on the shore like a curvaceous starlet, this arc of red and white sand is a sumptuous and cinematic dream come true. 15th Century Serenity The sand along this curve of the Montenegro coastline is a crunchy confetti in red, black and grey, ground to perfection through the ages by the Adriatic Sea. Sheltered in the calm beneath Sveti Stefan islet, the multicolored beach forms an irresistible bed for sunbathers. In the center of this idyll, a stone viaduct reaches out from the shore, providing passage to the tiny island that was once a fishing village, reincarnated today as an impeccable AMAN Hotel . ___ Photo by Aman Group Back DESTINATIONS Next

Explore a medieval magical wonder. Behind the formidable walls of this ancient city, there is a sense of openness that feels quite contemporary. An architectural treasure so dramatic it could be its own opera stage—not to mention being the set of Game of Thrones! DUBROVNIK, CROATIA Explore a medieval magical wonder. Behind the formidable walls of this ancient city, there is a sense of openness that feels quite contemporary. An architectural treasure so dramatic it could be its own opera stage—not to mention being the set of Game of Thrones! Timeless Old Town A city in cosplay, this walled medieval village is subject to visiting throngs of Thrones fans taking over the stone streets like scenes from a zombie film. The best way to avoid the invasion of fandom and cruise ship fodder is to rise very early and be among the first through the gates. What greets you then is a freshly rinsed wonder, protected through the ages by a battlement wall that beckons a 360 stroll. The streets and plazas in the center are like candy, enticing the visitor to try one more shop or cafe before closing the box. ___ SPOTLIGHT: Lady PiPi Lady PiPi noted for its playfully pornographic sculpture out front, and it’s freshly grilled delights inside, this patio-under-a-grape-arbor restaurant is the only eatery one needs to know within the walled city. Whole fish sizzle over aromatic wood fires, dutifully attended to and beautifully served. If there’s a wait, it’s worth it, giving one added time to ponder the inspiration for the artwork that “bares” the name, “pipi”. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

As a creative director in global travel publishing, I focus on the sensory experiences that make a journey memorable. Collaborations with award-winning writers and photographers sharpened my vision for this collection, mostly shot on my iPhone. –Haines Wilkerson, Founder ABOUT As a creative director for travel and hospitality brands, I’m often asked for recommendations. An inveterate curator at heart, I always send a short-but-sweet list of favorite sights, shops, restaurants and other delights. Few travelers these days have time to navigate complete visitor guides, but we do want to know what not to miss. I often hear that my tips “made their trip,” so I thought it might be fun to share this love for destinations with a wider audience of wanderers. Sharing the personality of places, in photographs, short musings and quick tips. HITHER & W ANDER CONSULTING In addition, I provide creative consulting for hospitality, travel and lifestyle brand s. — Haines Wilkerson Founder Image by @iarjonilla / @waileabeachresort

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Indulge in timeless charm on this island between Italy and Croatia. Life between the rolling azure sea and the rows of verdant hillside vineyards is like a dance on this romantic outpost on the Adriatic. VIS ISLAND, CROATIA Indulge in timeless charm on this island between Italy and Croatia. Life between the rolling azure sea and the rows of verdant hillside vineyards is like a dance on this romantic outpost on the Adriatic. Dress Code : Swimsuit Giving new meaning to “Palm Sunday”, fireworks-shaped palm tree shadows lead the way from an afternoon dip back to the boat, where the only question will be whether to stay in your wet swim trunks or change into dry ones. After that, the island of Vis awaits further exploration, be it by land or sea. Either way, you’re guaranteed a beautiful time, as only a Croatian island can deliver. But one thing’s for certain, those trunks won’t be dry for long. ___ Intoxicating Beauty The swim-up town of Vis rests in the nook of a yacht-studded bay. The westernmost island of the south Dalmatian archipelago, Vis is located 32 miles from the mainland of Croatia and 94 miles from Italy. This comfortable distance in either direction has kept Vis less crowded than its neighbor islands. Terracotta rooftops and verdant hillsides, etched with family vineyards make the beauty of Vis all the more intoxicating. ___ Stiniva Beach A jewel treasured since the 4th century BC when Dionysus settled a Greek colony here, Vis is rich in turquoise coves and blessed with tranquil waters that beckon an afternoon dip. Secluded Stiniva Beach is reached only by boat or a steep cliff trail that's not too terrifying (once you're down) where the gods have saved you a spot. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

A treasure tucked into coastal cliffs, this shelter from the Adriatic draws one in as if by song, to study the striations carved by the ages into the rising reaches of limestone. OMIS, CROATIA A treasure tucked into coastal cliffs, this shelter from the Adriatic draws one in as if by song, to study the striations carved by the ages into the rising reaches of limestone. History by the Sea Before the Cetina river reaches the ocean, it greets this tiny seaside village, 25 kilometers south of Croatia’s second-largest city, Split. Stone walkways are tucked into the folds of rugged seaside cliffs like bookmarks, each making its way up toward gaggles of modest homes and well tended gardens. Views of the river and the glow of the sea come into view the higher one climbs. ___ Rent-A-View Colorful tour boats sit like swans along the shore of the Cetina river where it widens to meet the sea. Handsome boatmen escort visitors upstream to behold its soaring stone cliffs. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

A crisp mountain breeze swirls the meadow grasses at Juniper Point as the lake slumbers in the distance like a "big bear." Up here, at nearly 7,000ft the air is fresh and clean, the perfect environment to revitalize one’s senses, with lots of hikes for the body—and a zillion stars for the soul. BIG BEAR LAKE, CALIFORNIA A crisp mountain breeze swirls the meadow grasses at Juniper Point as the lake slumbers in the distance like a "big bear." Up here, at nearly 7,000ft the air is fresh and clean, the perfect environment to revitalize one’s senses, with lots of hikes for the body—and a zillion stars for the soul. FIVE FAVES / BIG BEAR LAKE The Lake Like most of the West, Big Bear Lake’s origin story is one of indigenous tribes thriving peacefully off the land, eventually getting pushed out by Spanish missionaries who themselves were squeezed out by white Americans relocating from the east. The original dam that created the lake was a stone wall, built in 1884 to collect water for agriculture at the foot of the mountain. A bigger dam was added in 1911 which doubled the size of the lake. The present dam is a graceful but sturdy refurbishment of the 1911 multiple arch design. It provides for the 10 mile long sun dappled lake we love today. ___ Boulder Bay As its name suggests, this tranquil inlet is bookended by boulders. Not dinosaur-egg size, these are the size of three story homes—and there’s some of those here too! Imagine having the pleasure (and the building permits, which were somehow granted) to enjoy this view from your living room 24/7! But rest assured, the rest of us can enjoy an equally fantastic panorama from Boulder Bay Park, punctuated by tall pines and more boulders. There’s a gazebo with tables to shade your picnic from the sun and plenty of camera-ready benches for lakeside photo ops. The water in the inner bay is like a mirror making the boulders appear to float like fantasy castles. Slip a kayak into the moment and glide along. You can rent them right next-door at Big Bear Lake Kayaks , in any color of the rainbow. ___ Juniper Point This north lakeshore paradise off Hwy 18 is perhaps the most stunning place in all of Big Bear. Here the sparkling lake is greeted by a sweeping meadow, outlined with Ponderosa Pines and twisting Juniper trees. Spring-fed creeks lay almost hidden in the tall grasses, seen only when crossing over wooden footpath bridges. At mid-meadow, the view deserves a movie-score crescendo with the deep blue lake underlining a vast mountain diorama, including Snow Summit’s ski runs, scribed upon the green hillsides like Japanese calligraphy. Flocks of birds soar, following their appointed leader along the water’s edge, then banking right to survey the food options along the south shore. Parking is easy, but a forest Adventure Pass is advised, available at the Visitor’s Center and the Discovery Center. ___ SPOTLIGHT: The Wilkie Cabin This glowing midcentury mountain retreat was built on weekends by my father and uncle (Wilkie and Bob). They began construction when I was two and nailed the last board into place the year I turned 16. Fourteen years of hammering and sawing through the 1950s, ‘60s and ‘70s passed before their dream cabin was completed. It was originally designed as a two story cabin, but dad and Bob became enchanted with the new "A-frame" cabin designs introduced in the mid 60s. Soon these weekend warriors, armed with Skil saws and swear words added a beautiful A-frame loft. As kids, we’d roost up there, side-by-side in our sleeping bags, watching the night sky through the big pyramid-shaped window that points straight to the stars. Dad was never quite content with the notion that his work here was done. He sketched a concept for a dormer to be added on the backside of the roof, providing a 3rd bedroom, in addition to the five bunk beds in the loft. I took on that project myself, which, upon completion earned a big approving smile from my dad. Lilacs bloom below that new room, embracing the rear deck with an intoxicating allure in late spring. The cabin is furnished in a style best described as “vintage eclectic”. Lucky finds scooped up at our favorite thrift store, The Doves Nest , and the Art Queen in Joshua Tree and many visits to the Pasadena City College Swap Meet. Today, the Wilkie Cabin is one of Vacasa’s star rentals, available year-round to enjoy with your family and friends. ___ Mountain Cooking There’s nothing quite as satisfying as a hearty meal after a brisk hike or a day on the slopes. Not to mention the joy of sharing it with a group of hungry friends or family. A black iron skillet performs as rustic oven and serving platter, delivering sumptuous meals in the ultimate all-in-one vessel. Frittatas by morning, chicken thighs by night. Leave room for Apple strudel which can also be baked to perfection with this Iron Maiden. The mountains is the place to make memorable meals, but be careful what you wash it down with, as the high elevation can make for a mighty hangover. ___ Image courtesy of Friends of Big Bear Valley Rustic Charm The mountains have always possessed a unique charm that beckons even in harsh conditions, dating back to the scraggly gold rush prospectors who made their way up these rugged slopes on donkeys just to break rocks. Their hopes and hardships are documented at the Big Bear Valley Historical Museum located near the foot of Gold Mountain—the source of the dusty fuss in the 1800’s that earned it its name. Those feisty characters, bearing long beards and rumpled dreams weren’t the only adventurers contributing to Big Bear’s enduring rustic charm. More recently, two equally tenacious standouts have elevated the enthusiasm to new heights. Meet Jackie and Shadow , two bald eagles who winter in their meticulously constructed treetop roost. Their daily routine is streamed 24/7 via “nest cam ” from its secret location high above the lake. ___ Dining "Out" at The Pines Lakefront Pizza and beer taste better outside. Looks better too, backlit in the crisp mountain light, with the lake gently waving at you and your fellow patio partiers. The Pines Lakefront is my favorite daytime dining spot with its 180 view, and arrival options by car or by boat. I know which method I prefer, but by whichever conveyance, this sunny beer-on-tap terrace is a lovely place for a mile-high lunch alfresco. ___ Hiking Trails: #1: Castle Rock The most visually-dramatic and physically-challenging of Big Bear’s wondrous trails, Castle Rock indeed lives up to its lofty name. A 500ft elevation climb eventually levels off with energy left to claim the castle as yours, (along with myriad other hikers) taking in the stunning lake-and-forest panorama from this mountaintop kingdom-of-stone-giants. Massive boulders are the trail’s resident escorts all the way up, culminating in the royal cluster that forms the “castle”. Parking is a precarious challenge along busy Hwy 38, but Big Bear is wisely constructing a dedicated parking area, soon providing safe and convenient trail access. ___ Hiking Trails #2: Pebble Plains Eastward from the fray of Big Bear Lake Village is a little known but well loved series of sweet trails spanning the untouched forest between Moonridge and Big Bear City named Pebble Plains Preserve. Choose the easy paths that wind along the seasonal Saw Mill Creek, or the gentle climbs that reach Lookout Point for a 360 view of the whole valley. (Or do both!) Pebble Plains is so named for the quartzite pebbles that were pushed to the surface of the clay soil in the Pleistocene age. The preserve proudly protects native prehistoric botanicals, including tiny ground-cover flowers, each no bigger than dots of confetti. ___ Hiking Trails #3: Woodland Interpretive Loop This trail gets our vote for the most charming and varied trail in Big Bear. Good for all ages and staminas. Pets too, (safely on a leash). The name “Interpretive“ references sequentially numbered points of interest with related descriptions about the types of trees, rocks, and wildlife. Along the way, the terrain and plant life changes, becoming more interesting and dramatic with each turn. Views of the lake are framed in redwood, oak and pine as if art directed. Impressive outcroppings of boulders stand like sculpture, equal in majesty to Castlerock Trail across the lake to the west but far easier to access. By the time, you complete the trail loop you’ll know a little more about the forest —grateful for the beauty it shared. ___ TIME BANDIT Pirate Ship This 1/3rd scale replica of a Spanish Galleon playfully plunders Big Bear Lake, leading daily tours from the far east shore to wild west end. Giggling passengers see the lake from a unique perspective, obscured by the ultimate pirate fashion accessory, the eye patch. Built by a father and his son in their back yard in the 1960’s, the ship eventually made its way to Hollywood, as one does, landing a starring role in the movie “Time Bandit”, (hence her name). But glamour fades, and duty calls, so, after some time idling in various So Cal ports o’ call, she scaled the mountain to her lofty new birth in Big Bear. At elevation 6,752 ft above sea level, these salty scalawags are certainly the world’s most high-flying pirates! ___ Big Bear Alpine Zoo Imagine a rustic peaceable kingdom teaming with adorable animals, each in various stages of recovery from the cruelties of the modern world. Such is the playful and caring safety zone of Big Bear’s Alpine Zoo, “a rehabilitation facility offering injured and orphaned wild animals a 2nd chance”. The majority of animals successfully rehabilitated here are released back into their native environment! Those that remain on exhibit are either too injured or “imprinted by humans” to care for themselves in the wild. This wonderful refuge first opened its doors in 1959 after a devastating wildfire the San Bernardino National Forest displaced many native animals. The zoo is currently home to mammals, birds, and reptiles representing over 85 species. Open daily from 10am - 4pm. ___ Big Bear Discovery Center Nestled on a gentle hill on the North Shore of Big Bear Lake is a wonderful facility where weekly forest-awareness programs and eco-tours take place. Even some concerts, creative theater productions, and nighttime interpretive programs play out in the outdoor amphitheater. Inside there’s fantastic taxidermy of the true locals who call the San Bernardino National Forest “home”. Bears, coyotes, squirrels and birds, are each preserved in motionless poses to appreciate in great detail. And then there’s the merch! Impeccable Smokey the Bear plush toys, scarfs, t-shirts, hats, and, importantly, your Forest Adventure Pass that grants easy, worry-free parking at all the sights. ___ The Night Sky Stars, planets and constellations dazzle overhead in the pitch blackness, pointing the way to infinite possibilities. In this clear air, it all looks so close. The tall pine trees reach up as if to touch the tantalizing twinkle, but even at their height, this nighttime treasure is safely secure, a zillion miles away. Big Bear’s town leadership encourages residents and guests to turn off unneeded outdoor lighting at night so that all may see how truly amazing this sky full of stars is. Nothing like the few we see from the city with Mars, Venus and the North Star struggling to be seen through the muck. No, this is more like glitter and sugar poured onto black velvet. The star-chocked Milky Way galaxy looks like a cirrus cloud floating across the universe. When I was a kid in the 60’s, we would come up to Big Bear for Christmas, aluminum tree in tow with its turquoise teardrop ornaments, and colored pinwheel spotlight. Quite the contrast with a forest of real Christmas trees just outside. My mom liked to attend Christmas eve service at the nearby church, but one year my dad asked if we’d like to see his church. This came as a surprise because, on most Sundays he’d prefer to convene a kids’ pizza party than be confined to a church pew. He described “soaring pillars and a grand, domed ceiling, aglow with lights lit by God herself.” Excitedly, we followed him up the snowy trail, zig-zagging through the trees until we came to a wide clearing carpeted wall-to-wall in snow. I looked in all directions for the great cathedral, expecting to see a looming Notre Dame or the towers of La Segrada Familia, but instead there was just us. Dad said “This is my church”. We pondered each others’ puzzled faces. “Look up at that ceiling!” he said, his head reclined all the way back on his shoulders. Indeed the sky was like a vast dome with more twinkling “lights”, er stars than we’d ever imagined. Sturdy “columns” of pine trees lined the perimeter like a Greek temple. “In this church, your prayers are heard more clearly because you’re nearer to god.” he offered. We all stood there looking up, wide-eyed with mouths agape like a silent choir. He added, “And who do you think built it?” ___ Image courtesy of bigbearmountainresort.com Big Bear, by Season Every visit here feels like a different place, as the respective seasons redefine the landscape. Like four resort towns in one, winter, spring, summer and fall each uniquely affects the wonder that is Big Bear. WINTER arrives outfitted in boots, caps and mittens as Big Bear is blanketed in rolling folds of snow. Skiers and snowboarders enjoy breathless downhill runs and breathtaking ski lift views, repeated all day at Snow Summit and Bear Mountain . When it doesn’t snow, the resorts make their own, so the story plays out the same, except without the need for tire chains! For those of us who don’t feel at home on a frozen incline, there’s plenty of level ground in Big Bear Valley for us to make snow angels and catch snow flakes. By evening, the nearby Village beckons, its shops, restaurants and sidewalk fire rings all aglow in the twilight. Then it’s back to the cabin for hot chocolate and s’mores. In the morning, an early walk is enveloped in the serene silence of falling snow. SPRING comes with a colorful bouquet, nudging the snow to let go so that the show may begin. A rustic ballet of purple sage and pink cactus performs in full bloom. Lilacs scent the forest as cotton ball clouds festoon the sky. Silver-tailed squirrels scurry to the beat of the Woodpecker’s hammer. Gangs of tiny Mountain Chickadees pop their heads into pockets of snow like kids searching for snacks in the fridge. Walk along the meadow at Juniper Point , hike the Pebble Plains , do some thrift shopping at The Doves Nest and dine by the fire at the Captain’s Anchorage . Images courtesy of bigbearmountainresort.com SUMMER invites athletes and amateurs to cut loose in a dizzying array of outdoor activities. Mountain bikers descend the same black diamond runs that they roared down just six months earlier on skis and snowboards. (Fun fact: The US Olympic team trained here for the ‘64 Games in Mexico City to prepare for similarly-thin air!) For those who prefer a bike ride where the scenery isn’t a blur can try an easy e-bike ride along the north shore’s Alpine Pedal Path . Hikers have many trails to choose from, each unique in its wooded topography. Rent a boat and spend a blissful day on the lake, or let a pirate show you how it’s done. (See Pirate Ship above). You’ll find the Big Bear Alpine Zoo in full swing, and the Mine Shaft Coaster at full tilt. Discover how it all started at the Historical Museum , or simply SHOP! The Village is the “height” of retail therapy. FALL is a study of contrasts here in the mountains. The way golden oak leaves seem to catch all the sunlight against the forest green, assisted by swaying yellow Poplars, their leaves shimmering like coins. The air is crisp, and on the move, threading through a trillion pine needles holding fast to their branches like a gusty bronco ride. The forest is desert-dry now, having willed all moisture to its nearest kin, the summer. But that generosity paid off handsomely–in gold. For the visitor, the empty hiking trails are magical in the cool of the afternoon. The light slanting in lower as the days get shorter. Warmly dressed boaters may find they have the lake to themselves to skim across at full throttle. And, of course, there’s The Village , serving seasonal meals and tapping a cavalcade of craft beers. No matter which season , you’ll want to extend your stay, or book ahead for the next one. A wide variety of lodging options await, from sprawling hotels to snug cabins, (such as the aforementioned Wilkie Cabin !) ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next