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Romanced by the Douro river's embrace, Porto is a melange of modern living and Medieval beauty. PORTO, PORTUGAL Youthful spirit meets an ancient past in this picturesque Portuguese city. Romanced by the Douro river’s embrace, Porto is a melange of modern living and Medieval beauty. FIVE FAVES / PORTO City of Bridges A most appropriate moniker, as visitors will quickly discover, the two sides of Porto are laced together with bridges. One bridge is seemingly from the future, and right next to it, a Victorian era crossing leaps and swoons over the water. Designed as clifftop crossings, they ironically draw just as many passerby down into their shadows at the river’s edge. The most famous is the Dom Luis I bridge, a steel lacing that forms the backdrop of Porto. ___ Architectural Expressionism Arches, swirls, flower-petal patterns, all part of the whimsy elegance of Porto’s many architectural styles. So many floral and geometric motifs on incomprehensibly expansive tile mosaics and friezes, but no heroes are depicted. Why? Because the Moors held true to Islamic law and avoided portraying false icons. But there is no shortage of expressive forms in the wide variety of architectural vision that is Porto. ___ Perfect Perch The Portuguese have yet to meet a rooftop they don’t like. A table with a view is a Porto pleasure, even as a cat performs a high wire act along the edge. With a flying leap, he darts between the stylish boots of our waitress as she’s refilling our glasses while translating the menu. Afterwards there’s Parque dos Clerigos to stretch out in under the stars, listen to music and maybe think about tomorrow. Plans that may include visiting the Livraria Lello bookstore , (inspiration for Harry Potter’s Hogwarts) directly across from the park. (But only if there’s no line, which is quite unlikely). ___ Sunset Extraordinaire The view from the high ground of Jardim de Morro at sundown is an image that never leaves one’s heart. The park is terraced with curving concrete benches formed to the contour of the hillside, hosting the wise few who leave the bustle of the old town to cross the Rua General Torres bridge for this sublime vista. Maybe taking a slight detour to pick up some wine and cheese to enhance the moment at Dourum Restaurante just below the bridge on the quiet south waterfront. ___ Cliffside Thrill Ride Not for the faint of heart, (but worth it for the thrill –and the view) descending the cliff aboard the Funicular dos Guindais cable car is a Porto must. After strolling the high bridges across the river, it's the fastest and most fun way to reach the riverfront promenade. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

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Explore the wonder of this worldy city whose welcoming expanse of the Rio Tejo celebrates the explorers who launched their wooden galleons from this very spot in the 15th century in search of the New World. LISBON, PORTUGAL Explore the wonder of this worldy city whose welcoming expanse of the Rio Tejo celebrates the explorers who launched their wooden galleons from this very spot in the 15th century in search of the New World. FIVE FAVES / LISBON The Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology MAAT seems to have just landed like a graceful bird upon this modern gateway to the city. The subjects of art, architecture and technology come together all under one incredible roof. From atop, one beholds a 180 degree view of the river, while just below, an arc of terraced steps offer another perfect perch. ___ Belém Tower All roads (and tiled sidewalks) lead to the the river that launched a thousand dreams. Belém Tower, or the Tower of St. Vincent is a 15th century fortification that symbolized the Portuguese maritime accomplishments of the 15th century. The tower stands at the mouth of the Tagus river, initially as a defense garrison and now as the ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. ___ The Cultural Centre of Belém Across Avenida de Brasília from the fabled Lisbon waterfront, one may discover a new world of contemporary art and innovative architecture. Remarkable exhibits and music await an afternoon’s indulgence at the aforementioned MAAT and, just across the highway, at The Cultural Centre of Belém . This large building houses The Berardo Collection Museum which features various indoor and outdoor galleries exhibiting impressive collections (and the occasional al fresco film screening). Open every day for art lovers —and true loves. Rejuvenate alfresco, at Este Oeste Pizza and Sushi , soaking up its sunny rooftop terrace, reasonably priced delights —and some good rosé! ___ Cross Over, Children! While Lisbon lazes about on its beautiful north shore of the Rio Tejo, a short ferry ride across to the Almada side delivers an even more laid back vibe. What looks like an abandoned waterfront, lined with the remains of old buildings, is surprisingly full of life, delightfully lubricated with Vino Verde’s and serving up unforgettable alfresco dining and sensational views. Best to make a reservation because this quaint discovery hidden away on the ancient docks is actually quite popular, Ristorante Ponto Final and Atira-te ao Rio Restaurante. ___ Pastéis de Nata One of the true pleasures of travel is discovering local edible wonders such as Portugal’s own Pastéis de Nata. Tiny custard tarts that all too easily fit between the thumb and forefinger, enjoyed with an espresso. The much heralded home of these traditional treats is Pastéis de Belém , with its centuries-old secret recipe attributed to kitchen-wizard monks from the Jerónimos Monastery. Understated from the outside, the bakery is a haven of delight on the inside, —indeed a metaphor for their famous bite size treasures. ___ Views from Above The highest point in Lisbon welcomes you not with a herald of bells but with a ringing view of the city. Established in the 1st century BC, the fortification sits atop a steep hillside, crowning the cobbled twists and turns of the Alfama neighborhood. Lisbon is a collection of views awarded to those whose knees can endure the ascent and/or descent. The bell tower of Castelo de Sao Jorge is one such reward, atop the highest hill in the city. Well worth the climb, the fortress defends a 360 panorama of the city and its sparkling River Tagus. One may avoid the multitude of steps, reaching it via taxi or transit, but where’s the sport in that? A fun way to cheat Lisbon’s relentless climbs is the Santa Justa Lift , the Eiffel Tower of Lisbon, (in fact, designed by a student of Gustave Eiffel) was built in 1901. Rising seven stories straight up, its chief purpose is augmenting hundreds upon hundreds of steps to the top of the commanding hill above the Baixa district. ___ Paved in Art Portugal’s ultimate, treasured tradition is tile. Mosaics are everywhere, shimmering on walls and inlaid into sidewalks, illustrating the history and spirit of this stunning country. ___ Stairway to Heaven Zigzag your way up numerous M.C. Escher-esque staircases, or simply elevate yourself aboard the aforementioned Santa Justa Lift to alight upon one of the coolest sights ever, the Carmo Archaeological Museum . A former convent built in 1389, where the heavens are truly part of the place, due to the roof having collapsed in the great Lisbon earthquake of 1755. Now a stunning indoor/outdoor museum with exhibits related to the history of Lisbon from pre-historic times through to the Middle Ages. The gift shop, with its tall windows looking across the city to the Castle is, in itself, worth the trek. ___ Reaching New Heights As the sun goes down, the music comes up on rooftops all across town. Some packed with revealers dancing with both hands signaling the night sky, some quaint (and comparatively quiet) with a half dozen wealthy winos raising toasts. And, on some hilltop terrace, a lone guitarist frets in Portuguese about a girl who is now likely up on the first rooftop. But it’s not all about imbibing and talking rubbish on rooftops. The night also invites the more bookish to indulge in words of the wise. Ler Devagar Bookstore , with shelves stacked to the high ceiling glows from the inside as it beckons passerby to open a new chapter. ___ Inclined to Enjoy The sidewalks of Lisbon dutifully conform to the city’s hillsides, transforming a level (tile-lined) avenue into a challenging set of stairs, ever upward. Lisbon is not for the faint-of-knee, or ankle. But for those not hampered by lower-extremity limitations, it’s an incredibly beautiful city with rewarding views and points of interest at each summit. Count on stairs being part of any walking tour and for that reason, consider visiting Lisbon in the spring or fall because who wants to traverse stairs under an unrelenting summer sun, or the bracing chill of winter? Regardless of the weather, one can always take the yellow trolley and save one’s knees for another day of exploring this romantic city, home to the very term “explorer”, as the launching port for the Age of Discoveries. Often, what we seek in travel is ascent for the mind and soul. In Lisbon, it's literal. Climb to reach a restaurant, a bar, a club. Climb your way to the pinnacle of Lisboa's Boheme groove. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

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Like a vertical jewel box, Tokyo dazzles at every angle. Blinking red marker lights define the height and width of all tall buildings for aircraft, giving the skyline a strange visual continuity despite the variety of architectural styles and sizes. TOKYO, JAPAN Like a vertical jewel box, Tokyo dazzles at every angle. Blinking red marker lights define the height and width of all tall buildings for aircraft, giving the skyline a strange visual continuity despite the variety of architectural styles and sizes. FIVE FAVES / TOKYO Shibuya Shuffle The Tokyo cityscape at street level can be impossibly frenetic, even comical in time-lapse, but in contrast to the insane Shibuya crossing, many neighborhoods such as Shinjuku take on a more personal scale and easy-going feel. ___ Tsutaya Books, Ginza Crowning the 6th floor of the Ginza Six shopping center is the remarkable Tsutaya Bookshop . Its skylit atrium illuminates the mind and heart the way a good book does. Art books are presented in an exhilarating space, blending beauty with inspiration. –and a favorite Tokyo photo op. ___ Asakusa Culture and Information Center A tourist bureau so beautifully designed that it itself is a sightseeing attraction! This towering latticework of timber and glass, designed by renowned architect Kengo Kuma is both modest and bold in its design, looking like a stack of wooden buildings from the neighborhood casually piled atop one another. An eclectic monolith that playfully looms over the stunning Sensoji Temple and the charming Asakusa district. ___ d-47 Museum A Japan-themed space exhibiting the designs, products and creative individuality of the island nation's 47 prefectures. Presented on 47 tables, each display focuses on the unique regional artistry and local culture. The namesake d-Department stores and online shops are equally inspiring. ___ Photo by Daici Ano Windows on Ginza Ginza, which means “Place of Silver” has been the main commercial district of Tokyo since the early 17th century, and that still stands today, –literally. The height of wealth here is matched only by its architecture. Timeless luxury brands such as Mikimoto, Louis Vuitton, Dior and Hermes, among others flaunt new gleaming facades, each as gorgeous and distinctive as the wares inside. Mikimoto Ginza 2-chome building Designed by Toyo Ito & Associates, the undersea window shapes appear random but each is precisely sized and positioned to lend structural support, allowing the interior to be column-free. Louis Vuitton / Ginza Wrapped in an undulating glaze of pearlescent glass that references the nearby Tokyo bay, this graceful design is the work of Jun Aoki & Associates with flowing interiors created by Peter Marino. Private Architectural Tour of Ginza ___ Muji Ah, the little heart flutter that happens when one enters a Muji store. Here in Tokyo, this flagship in Ginza really gets the blood pumping with an expanded array of retail, plus an art exhibit space, an irresistible bakery and a Muji hotel to top it all off. Refined design at affordable prices. Shop, sleep, eat and enjoy. ___ The Okura Hotel A tale almost as lovely as the design itself, the Okura Hotel, a masterpiece of Japanese modernism is a triumph of father and son architects, working decades apart. The hotel’s original balance of light and form was the vision of Yoshiro Taniguchi in 1960. After years of neglect, a thoughtful and comprehensive restoration was overseen by his son, Yoshio Taniguchi. Now, in all its modern and airy grace, it appears as though time has stood still since opening day in May, 1962. ___ Kabukiza Theater In 1629, a law was passed in Japan that, to this day has kept women actors from the Kabuki stage, yet there are many female roles in the centuries-old tales portrayed. Instead, male actors train for years to become “onnagata”, crafting an astonishing performance as women. Not so much an imitation of women, but an embodiment of a special artistic convention unique to Kabuki. Another true attribute of Kabuki is “mie”, where a strong pose is struck in “stop-motion” poses, accompanied by loud wooden clapper beats. Not meant to be realistic, this over-the-top tableau freezes a powerful picture of the emotion or conflict. Amazing to watch and to think that it’s been performed this way for centuries, yet continuously adapting to modern times. Including the Kabukiza Theater itself, reimagined by architect Kengo Kuma in 2013. A design that honors tradition, while providing a stage for the future of this art form. ___ Photo by David Davis Photo by Udatsu Sushi Udatsu Sushi “A space that is not just about sushi, but also a place representative of the city of Tokyo; where people from diverse backgrounds can interact and deepen their mutual understanding of each other.” —Chef/owner, Hisashi Udatsu The son of a butcher and next-door neighbor to his hometown’s only sushi restaurant, Hisashi’s young eyes witnessed daily the artistry of Japanese culinary traditions. By age 14, he informed his friends that he will be a chef. Today, Hisashi sets a humble table where storied meals are masterfully staged on dreamy Jenny Sharaf ceramics. ___ Onsen Ryokan Yuen Shinjuku A zen stillness is palpable in this simple but remarkable high rise hotel in Shinjuku. Materials that one would expect in a craftsman home or a temple appear natural in this modern space. An interior path of black slate leads to the spa elevator that escorts guests to the rooftop onsen. A breathtaking spa experience, with its open-air views of Tokyo twinkling under the stars. One’s focus softens in the rising steam of the onsen pool sheltered from any breezes 18 floors above the city. Later, float down a few floors, where one’s bed awaits in the form and feel of a cloud. ___ Raising the Bar (and lowering it) Suntory Lounge Eagle, (top image) a Tokyo classic since the early ‘90’s, this sunken highball bar features a grand staircase descending from street level, fit for a swooning diva’s entrance. Escape the strobing LED night and slip into a chandelier-lit sanctuary where the shaking of chilled Japanese vodka sets the rhythm for conversation and people watching. Main Bar Brilliant (bottom two images) is a swank hideaway in plain sight at the Keio Plaza Hotel in the middle of Shinjuku. If the 1970’s Johnny Carson set had included a bar, it might have looked like this. A modernist grid of brick and wood lines the long, low-slung bar, while round swivel chairs populate the space like orange planets. Tuxedoed bartenders construct perfect cocktails with precision, their surreal presence vaguely familiar, perhaps from a Stanley Kubrick film. ___ Photo by David Davis Shinjuku Golden Gai A tangle of six narrow alleys shingled in a cacophony of neon signs leads to tiny shanty bars with seating for a lucky few. Off each alley are even narrower passageways, barely wide enough for a single person to win their way through. But so worth it! 200+ little bars, clubs and eateries, all squeezed into a maze of unexpected delights. Be respectful with your camera. Taking pictures without permission is frowned upon and could lose you that coveted bar stool. ___ INSPIRATION : A touch of Japan for your world at home. Sparkling Yuzu Gimlet When in Japan, on the winter solstice, consider bathing in yuzu, as is the custom dating back to the early 18th century. But at home, there’s the Yuzu Gimlet, sparking like moonlight in your glass. Originally from central China and Tibet, Yuzu was introduced to Japan and Korea during the Tang dynasty, and its citrusy pleasures quickly squeezed their way worldwide, adding a splash of East-Asia here at home. Recipe: Food & Wine ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

JAPAN A land where mindfulness flows in many forms: architecture, cuisine, garden design, fashion, music, stage, packaging, transportation. Each craft thoughtfully explored and realized with exquisite simplicity. Tokyo efficiently shelters an impossibly large populous with welcoming grace. Kyoto inspires the soul and spirit with humble sophistication. Naoshima delights the eyes and mind with groundbreaking originality. Together, they are the glow of the rising sun that is Japan. KYOTO Inspiration Meets Tranquillity TOKYO A Vertical Jewel Box NAOSHIMA (Coming Soon)

Explore a medieval magical wonder. Behind the formidable walls of this ancient city, there is a sense of openness that feels quite contemporary. An architectural treasure so dramatic it could be its own opera stage—not to mention being the set of Game of Thrones! DUBROVNIK, CROATIA Explore a medieval magical wonder. Behind the formidable walls of this ancient city, there is a sense of openness that feels quite contemporary. An architectural treasure so dramatic it could be its own opera stage—not to mention being the set of Game of Thrones! Timeless Old Town A city in cosplay, this walled medieval village is subject to visiting throngs of Thrones fans taking over the stone streets like scenes from a zombie film. The best way to avoid the invasion of fandom and cruise ship fodder is to rise very early and be among the first through the gates. What greets you then is a freshly rinsed wonder, protected through the ages by a battlement wall that beckons a 360 stroll. The streets and plazas in the center are like candy, enticing the visitor to try one more shop or cafe before closing the box. ___ SPOTLIGHT: Lady PiPi Lady PiPi noted for its playfully pornographic sculpture out front, and it’s freshly grilled delights inside, this patio-under-a-grape-arbor restaurant is the only eatery one needs to know within the walled city. Whole fish sizzle over aromatic wood fires, dutifully attended to and beautifully served. If there’s a wait, it’s worth it, giving one added time to ponder the inspiration for the artwork that “bares” the name, “pipi”. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

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Islet in the Sun. Curled up on the shore like a curvaceous starlet, this arc of red and white sand is a sumptuous and cinematic dream come true. SVETI STEFAN, MONTENEGRO Islet in the Sun. Curled up on the shore like a curvaceous starlet, this arc of red and white sand is a sumptuous and cinematic dream come true. 15th Century Serenity The sand along this curve of the Montenegro coastline is a crunchy confetti in red, black and grey, ground to perfection through the ages by the Adriatic Sea. Sheltered in the calm beneath Sveti Stefan islet, the multicolored beach forms an irresistible bed for sunbathers. In the center of this idyll, a stone viaduct reaches out from the shore, providing passage to the tiny island that was once a fishing village, reincarnated today as an impeccable AMAN Hotel . ___ Photo by Aman Group Back DESTINATIONS Next