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A curated list of what not to miss. This is The City of Lights, not just because of its nighttime glow, but because of the illumination it brings to one’s heart and mind. PARIS, FRANCE A curated list of what not to miss. This is The City of Lights, not just because of its nighttime glow, but because of the illumination it brings to one’s heart and mind. FIVE FAVES / PARIS Musée Rodin If there’s one tip I can confidently impart to those visiting (or residing in) Paris it is the Musée Rodin at sundown, just before they close for the day. Sunlight pours like Viognier through the tall windows, glazing the walls with diagonal stripes, while draping the bare musculature of Rodin’s subjects in form-fitting couture light. The storied residence of sculptor Auguste Rodin is veiled in a lace of shadows as late sunlight sketches fleeting patterns across the room. Faces that the artist suspended in time a hundred years ago look away as the sun finds a place to rest in the garden until tomorrow. ___ Parc de la Villette Architect Bernard Tschumi designed the Parc de la Villette, with the intention of creating “a space that exists in a vacuum”, something without historical precedent, to allow for the existence of a “non-place” based on “culture” rather than “nature.” The design of the park is a groundbreaking example of architectural deconstructivism. “By allowing visitors to experience the architecture of the park within this constructed vacuum, the time and activities that take place in that space begin to acquire a more vivid and authentic nature.” In simpler terms, it’s big, open and not at all structured like the Parisian parks of old. La Géode in the Sciences Center is an otherworldly mirrored dome housing an Omnimax theatre. ___ Paris Philharmonic Designed by Jean Nouvel, the new home of the Paris Philharmonic is renowned for its near perfect acoustics. The convulsing metallic exterior with interlocking MC Escher-esque patterns looks alive in the changing daylight and luminous at night. It is one of several civic music facilities located within Parc de la Villette . ___ Crepes as Art In the right hands, crepes become “origami”. Gently flipped and folded, a paper-thin circle of buckwheat becomes sculptural rapture, be it savory or sweet. This artwork also serves as sustenance for those seeking rest and replenishment midway up the steep hillside climb to Sacré Coeur. I recommend one such haven from those unforgiving stairs, where works of creperie art are rendered daily: Rozell Café & Creperie , Montmartre. ___ Pinault Collection Presented in the rotunda of the reimagined Bourse de Commerce , a group of monumental sculptures composed of wax, each with candles inside are lit on the first day of the exhibition. As the candles melt, the sculptures gradually disintegrate, sending faces, arms and other appendices crashing to the gallery floor, which, in turn become part of the exhibit. The renovated space is itself a work of art by Japanese architect Tadao Ando that is nothing short of spectacular. Multiple galleries now ring the 1800’s building in modern art, forming the latest must-see art venue in Paris. Untitled (2011) by Swiss artist Urs Fischer ___ Le Louvre If the sky were not dark you’d swear it was daylight. Such is the ambiance of an evening in the twin courtyards of Le Louvre . A glow that takes your breath away when stepping through the arched gateways into this sanctum of light. Cellos and flutes resonate in the open corridors, played by lone musicians hoping that a passerby’s euros will alight upon their performance. ___ Morning Light in St. Germain Saint Germain des Prés is a neighborhood that connotes masterpiece scenes of the Left Bank. The obsession of every self guided art tour of Paris. Where poets, artists and philosophers famously conversed at Café Flore over the roar of possibilities. Yet, here inside the church, a centuries old stillness is anointed in the colors of stained glass. A reverence so hushed one can almost hear the candles fluttering, or the prayers for which they burn. The brilliant author and musician, Patti Smith was recently in Paris on tour with her reunited band and posted a brief description of her morning walk: “I lit candles in the St Germain church for the children of the world, and then went to say hello to Picasso’s tribute to his friend, the poet Apollinaire, that beautiful head of Dora Maar (in the rear garden of the church) near Café de Flore.” Ah, a morning inspired by Patti Smith here where Sartre and Camus once philosophized over coffee in the fabled Left Bank of Paris. ___ Le Musée d’Orsay France has a love of art, and walks the walk to support it. In 1975, it was determined that a new museum was needed to represent the arts from the second half of the 19th century. At the same time, a retired Beaux-Arts train station was about to be demolished when visionary preservationists spoke up. Et voilà, the proposed museum and the rescued “gare” became one. Today, Le Musée d’Orsay is one of the world’s most inspired art spaces, housing artworks so famous and fabulous it weakens the knees. But its crescendo is the great clock window on the fifth floor. As cinematic and startling as a Hitchcock storyboard, this watch-work window provides the ultimate photo location and a sweeping view from the Seine to Sacré Coeur. ___ Le Centre Pompidou In making one’s way through the Marais neighborhood in Paris, the narrow stone streets suddenly widen like gates opening onto a fanciful world of color and form as Le Centre Pompidou comes into view. Renzo Piano’s early and revolutionary work literally turned architecture inside out by placing the traditionally hidden mechanical parts of a structure on the outside, forming what appears to be a wild bionic beast crouching in the middle of a 17th century village. A friendly beast though, with wonderful qualities. A generous art aficionado with room in his heart to share inspiration with architecture lovers on their pilgrimage to one of the great cultural venues of our time. ___ Le Jardin du Luxembourg With one’s first step into this grandest of all Paris gardens, Le Jardin du Luxembourg , the clammer of the 6th arrondissement quickly fades. The world itself, seems subdued into silence, except for the lapping of fountains. Ancient sculptures stand frozen in their moment, concealing centuries they’ve seen go by. Today, flowers overflow their urns while dreamers contort into green metal chairs, watching the daylight move across the formal garden like a lazy sundial. Images : The Medici Fountain was built in 1630 by Marie de’ Medici. "L'effort" bronze sculpture by Pierre Roche (1855-1922). Toy sailboats navigate the Central Fountain. 5 euros for 30 minutes of sailing. ___ INSPIRATION : A touch of France for your world at home. The French Boulle Desk My office is anchored in 19th century splendor from Napoleon III’s France, (but I acquired it in this century from Nickey/Kehoe ). This over-the-top desk is described in design parlance as “clean and classical, standing on fluted legs and decorated with brass inlays in motifs of the Louis XVI style.” Despite its “let them eat cake” appearance, the desk is actually quite utilitarian. Hidden within its deceivingly compact size, it boasts a massive single drawer that slips away unnoticed amid the frufru. Tucked into the tight quarters of a Paris hotel in St. Germain, a helpful concierge plans out one’s day in the 6th arrondissement, executed in exquisite detail on a petit, black lacquer Boulle desk with added privacy panel. Back at home, a Boulle desk functions as a sort of personal concierge, providing an inspired place for charting life between travels. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Our top five favorite things to do in the modern and medieval city of Porto, Portugal. 1 Jardim De Morro at Sundown This view never leaves one's heart, just across the Rua General Torres bridge from the historic center. Make it a picnic with wine and cheese from Dourum Restaurante . PORTO, PORTUGAL 2 Portuguese Centre of Photography Formerly a prison in which children were among the incarcerated, this remarkable space now offers vision and light, where there was once only darkness. PORTO, PORTUGAL 3 Armazém Luxury Housing A 19th century iron warehouse in Porto’s historic centre now houses the Armazém hotel. Just 9 dreamy and inventive guest rooms and 3 apartments comprise this unique property near to the Ribeira district. PORTO, PORTUGAL 4 Funicular Dos Guindais This heart-stopping railway-meets-rollercoaster makes a very vertical descent on its express route from the heights of Centro Historico down to the waterfront. PORTO, PORTUGAL 5 Clérigos Tower & Parque Dos Clérigos The winding climb inside the sinewy tower is rewarded with a stunning 360 view of Porto. Directly below is the delightful lounge-meets-city-park, Parque dos Clérigos. PORTO, PORTUGAL Back FIVE FAVES Next

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A design and marketing consulting service for hospitality, travel and lifestyle brands. Award-winning talent working with visionary clients to create game-changing results. C O N S U L T I N G A design and marketing consulting service for hospitality, travel and lifestyle brands. Award-winning talent working with visionary clients to create game-changing results. For inquiries: info@hitherandwander.com

Our top five favorite things to do in Big Bear Lake, California. 1 The Wilkie Cabin This rustic retreat with a modernist twist is one of Big Bear Vacations ' star rental cabins. Designed in the 60’s and hand-built over three decades, it now has a new kitchen, huge back deck, 3 bedrooms, 2 baths, 5 bunkbeds in the loft …and a zillion stars overhead. BIG BEAR LAKE, CA 2 Juniper Point Picnic in the scented shade of twisting old Juniper trees. Take a stroll along the lakeside meadow or an e-bike along the Alpine Pedal Path for a sweeping view of the lake in all its glory. Watch as the clouds slip by like floating castles, casting polka dot shadows on the forest peaks. BIG BEAR LAKE, CA 3 The Pines Lakefront A favorite daytime dining spot for its 180° lake view, this sunny beer-on-tap terrace is a lovely place for a leisurely mile-high lunch, alfresco. Arrive by car or by boat! Have some flatbread pizza with a variety of craft beers and watch the day go by. BIG BEAR LAKE, CA 4 Woodland Interpretive Loop This charming trail is good for all ages and staminas. Pets too, (safely on a leash). Numbered points of interest describe the tree types, rocks, and wildlife seen along the way, as the terrain and flora changes dramatically with each turn. BIG BEAR LAKE, CA 5 Stanfield Marsh Boardwalk Discover a wetland ecosystem that attracts a wide variety of birds, from ducks and geese to herons and hawks. This 145-acre preserve offers a peaceful escape and a peek at the workings of nature, as seen from a wooden boardwalk/pier. An easy 1.6 mile round trip. BIG BEAR LAKE, CA Back FIVE FAVES Next

Our top five favorite things to do in the City of Light, Paris, France. 1 Rodin Museum The studio, home and garden of sculptor and national treasure, August Rodin is a living inspiration. Not to mention the excellent cafe and incredible sculptures amid the landscape. PARIS, FRANCE 2 Rozell Café Crêpes Halfway up one's pilgrimage to Sacré Coeur, there's a little hole in the wall crêperie named Rozell Café that folds paper-thin buckwheat pancakes into edible origami. PARIS, FRANCE 3 Bourse Pinault Collection Formerly the Paris Stock Exchange, Japanese visionary architect Tadao Ando has reimagined this financial palace into a brilliant and enthralling art exhibit space. PARIS, FRANCE 4 Le Pigalle Hotel A classic Parisian setting set to a new groove. Each room is curated with a superb collection of vinyl, and a vintage record player featuring some of the best french jazz ever heard, —matched by a great selection of books within reach of your pillow. At night, the concierge is a DJ. By morning, the lobby returns to a calm mix of fresh croissants and juices riffing with the sunlight which slips in incognito. PARIS, FRANCE 5 Sunsets at the Pompidou Center Escalators snake up the façade of Paris' groundbreaking modern museum as the sun slips away and the City of Light switches on. Follow that line to Georges for happy hour. PARIS, FRANCE Back FIVE FAVES Next

After a rough-hewn ride in from the Manzanillo (ZLO) airport, the sweeping ocean vistas and stunning architectural forms of the Four Seasons Tamarindo resort suddenly come into view, making an unforgettable impression on the senses. Like finding a black diamond in the sand, this modernist stone, glass and concrete temple dazzles on every level. MÉXICO CITY México City, aka ”Ciudad de México, or just “CDMX” is a living metropolis like no other. 20 million residents quilted across 573 square miles, in a Lego landscape framed by mountains and active volcanoes. While it appears impossibly vast from an airplane window, here on the ground, each neighborhood evokes a surprisingly serene quality. Individual enclaves budding with proud artistry, unique architecture and swoon worthy cuisine. Centro Histórico A constant swirl of activity, Centro is like the center of a galaxy, timeless and alluring and absolutely alive. At its heart, ancient ruins of the Aztec Templo Mayor feel almost buried by the centuries it’s endured amid the flurry, not to mention the futility of seeing its stones repurposed by the conquering Spanish to form the walls of Catholic cathedrals. Their bell towers casting sundial shadows across the vast plazas. Also standing tall in Centro CDMX is the Palacio de Bellas Artes, the Metropolitan Cathedral, the Palacio Nacional, the Church of Santo Domingo, Museo Nacional de Arte and the Museo Frida Kahlo. ___ Roma Norte Ironic that this modern-aesthetic neighborhood lined with design-centric cafes, fusion restaurants, vintage shops and spiky bohemes dates back to the 20th century, when affluent families first relocated here, beyond the hubbub of Centro Histórico. Roma Norte and Condesa are close sisters, sophisticated yet laid back and welcoming. ___ Plaza Río de Janeiro The timelessly-toned gluteus maximus of Michelangelo‘s David adds muscularity to the serenity of Roma Norte. While David looks to have been standing here for ages, this impressive bronze replica of the original was created in 2020. Weighing in at trim 284.16 lbs. and standing an erect 16.96 ft., this Alpha-generation David is one of two replicas gracing CDMX. His impeccable white marble twin greets visitors in the grand lobby of the Museo Soumaya in Polanco. ___ Juárez The Colonia Juárez neighborhood, shaped like an airplane wing, has always been home to a lofty group of artists and intellectuals, despite eras of financial decay and earthquake damage. Today, it thrives with creative shops and restaurants nestled in early 19th century townhouses. It hosts a lively Korean enclave (with the K-town cuisine options to go with it) and a proud gay community in its “Pink Zone”. In our opinion, here you’ll discover the best bespoke clothes, curios, salons, and cafes. ___ Condesa “The Countess”, indeed. Elegant, charming, colorful, festive, ready to receive her bohemian subjects and visiting guests in leafy pageantry. Art deco buildings crown the walkable tree-lined streets like a tiara, adding streamline sensibility to this historic neighborhood in the Cuauhtémoc borough. By day, genteel, and welcoming, but by night our countess steps out into the lively, international nightlife of the Hipodromo ‘hood. All together, a mix of stunning restaurants, bookshops, bars and boutique inns define Condesa, along with its youthful energy and sophisticated design. The only reason to explore beyond its many charms is the related simple wonders of neighboring Roma-Norte (and Juárez!) ___ Museums México City’s trove of art and anthropological collections is reason enough to visit the city. Presented in glorious venues, each museum in CDMX colors us spellbound and inspired. ___ National Museum of Anthropology In its central courtyard, an impossibly massive rectangular mushroom umbrella seems to hover overhead, balanced atop a single sequoia-sized pillar. The usually-penetrating Mexican sun is effortlessly eclipsed by this towering centerpiece designed in 1964 by visionary architects, Pedro Ramírez Vázquez, Jorge Campuzano, and Rafael Mijares Alcérreca. As if some sort of alien form, it drizzles water onto the pond below in a mesmerizing rain dance, like a set piece from David Lynch’s Dune. Inside the galleries that flank this phenomenon are artefacts from México's indigenous Maya, Aztec and Olmec cultures. Mind-bending pieces that intricately illustrate the complexities and beauties of lifetimes past. ___ Chapultepec Castle It said that one of these young Niños Héroes cadets, memorialized in bronze, wrapped himself in the Mexican flag and leaped to his death from this very balustrade rather than surrender to the American army that would soon take the castle in 1847. It survived the Mexican-American war and the regrettable rule of Austrian archduke Emperor Maximilian, who, in 1864 imported a very non-indigenous interior design style to this strategic hillside fortress/royal home, not to mention a most objectionable–and doomed monarchy rule. (His was executed in 1867). Originally a sacred place to the Aztecs, Chapultepec means “Hill of the Grasshoppers” in their language. Today it is home to the National Museum of History with an array of fascinating artifacts and exhibits. ___ Soumaya Museum When one is one of the richest people on the planet, one may conceive and construct an out-of-this-world gallery for one’s own private collection, assembled in one place to be appreciated by all. Hence the genesis of this undulating modern jewelbox that houses spectacular works starting with an exact marble replica of Michelangelo‘s David in the lobby, then spiraling its way up to a cavalcade of masterworks. The honeycomb stainless steel exterior is jaw dropping, and the collection inside is breathtaking. ___ Museo de Arte Moderno 1964 must have been such a celebrated year culturally for CDMX, with this dual-cylinder museum debuting along with its sister, the masterpiece Anthropology Museum. “MAM” is both charming and impressive, welcoming and awe-inspiring. Located in Chapultepec Park, it features an enviable permanent collection with works by Mexican masters, Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera and beyond exhibited in the two circular buildings, joined by a sculpture garden. Inspired temporary exhibitions also dazzle, so much so that repeated visits are recommended for return travelers. ___ Frida Kahlo Museum Frida slept here. She painted masterpieces from her bed. Frail and permanently impaired from an accident in 1925 as she was riding on a bus, she managed as if by a miracle. A steel rod had pierced her 18 year old body like a cruel sword yet somehow, she and her talent survived, living on with the lightness of a butterfly. An angel on this earth–with a paint brush. Her Devine space, known as the Blue House in Coyoacán was her home, her studio and her infirmary. Patti Smith wrote this poem after visiting Frida’s thoughtfully preserved bedside. I can not walk I can not see Further than what Is in front of me I lay on my back yet I do not cry Transported in space by the butterflies. Above my bed Another sky With the wings you sent Within my sight All pain dissolves In another light Transported thru Time By the butterfly ___ Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo Studio Nestled in the lovely San Angel district, a historical area treasured for its colonial architecture and cobbled streets, “Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo” is the former co-habited home/studio of iconic artists Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. The studio still seems very much abuzz with artwork displayed on easels and the intricate tools, once in the hands of these two artists arranged on tables as if masterworks are underway as we speak. Rivera’s extensive collection of indigenous artwork is on display, just as he left it. The building itself is a work of art, designed in 1929 by Rivera’s friend, architect Juan O’Gorman, in a style that combines traditional Mexican architecture with functionalist design. Enjoy this virtual tour of the property, made possible by the Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes. ___ Standout Dining & Imbibing An ample portion of the delirious pleasure of México City is in its dining and drinking. Just as this metropolis is home to the purest form of the Spanish language, the true essence of Mexican cuisine is borne here. CDMX is the test kitchen where traditional cuisine meets modern experimentation. And that goes for cocktail crafting as well! To top it all off, restaurant design here is theater, be it bohemian or elegant, the inventive staging enlivens each performance. There are SO many greats, but here’s our top three… ___ San Ángel Inn This grand but soft spoken Colonial-era hacienda stretches out in siesta style sensuality, where shaded verandas and verdant courtyard gardens meet like lovers. In this Eden, margaritas are served “up”, poured with pride by the waiter into salt-rimmed martini glasses. One’s replenishment, equal to the first pour, is kept chilled in a silver vile resting on a cloud of crushed ice in one’s own personal-size silver ice bucket. Any pain or suffering that one may have carried in upon arrival, no longer registers as of the 2nd round. I believe this to be the finest margarita in the world. Order the table side Caesar which takes two waiters to whisk and toss to perfection. If more ballast is desired, the menu overfloweth with traditional delights, not to mention memorable desserts. Then there’s the bakery and gift shop! ___ Azul Histórico Perhaps the most beautiful restaurant anywhere, it rests in the open air courtyard of a 17th-century palace. Your table awaits beneath gestural trees and a soaring vertical wall garden. Chef Ricardo Muñoz Zurita has re-conjured certain moles and salsas that hail from another time in México City, previously unfamiliar even to serious foodies. Zurita’s Mole Negro and his Oaxacan tortilla soup are highlights in our book. Savor this quiet respite, in such contrast with the bustle of Centro just outside these 17th-century walls. ___ Panadaría Rosetta The best reason to wake up in México City is Rosetta, no matter how bad the jet lag. I could sleepwalk to her subterranean panadaría in Juarez, (and I think I may have! Twice!!) Pajamas are permitted as one slips onto a stool, pondering the fantastic pastry options as they come into focus. You see, these are the best pastries of all time. The real reason to travel to México City? Rosetta pastries. And her delicious cortado will assure a bright-eyed start to your day in CDMX. ___ Local Arts & Crafts Every sidewalk window, in every part of town seems to be a showcase for local artisan handiwork. This can lead to challenging space concerns with regards to one’s carry-on luggage. Condesa, Roma Norte and Juárez are home to the best curios and antiques. One in particular is Origen México Artesanías. The operators of this tiny but cock-full shop in Juárez should be commended. Their lovely wares are the reward for their work to improve the living conditions of Mexican craftsmen by helping facilitate sales, education and management skills. They work with each artisan to produce products that incorporate innovation, yet preserve strong cultural origins. ___ Holiday CDMX Winter slips in over this 7,000ft metropolis like a feathery duvet, silently warming the sprawl of city life with renewed energy. Mexican tin Christmas trees glimmer and glow from apartment windows while giant multi-pointed stars illuminate the streets as they float over town plazas. Churches seem dipped in gold and outdoor nativity scenes are awash in waves of colored paper flowers. Lovers walk in the long parkways wearing matching santa caps, embracing the charm of the season and the annual promise of peace on earth. ___ Half-Day Trips It’s hard to tell where and when one will find the outskirts of town in this endless population of 9 million+. But, trust us, it’s worth the ride. The great pyramids, the goofy gondolas, and an extraterrestrial orbit of concrete, all just a half-day there and back. So buckle up! ___ Xochimilco Gondola Boats Known as the "Venice of México," Xochimilco is the home port for gondola-like boats, or “trajineras” that navigate its ancient canal system. (Reality check: This is not a bit like Venice! ;-) Hire a trajinera for a drift through the canals, past floating gardens (chinampas) blooming to the beat of mariachi bands and the call of floating vendors selling food and drinks. Trajineras rent by the hour, with weekend tours geared more to partying and weekday cruising more about nature. Having experienced the vacant boredom of the weekday option, the weekend looks to be a lot more fun. Bring a boatful of friends and drinks and this might actually be great. ___ Universidad Nacional Autónoma In a Sistine Chapel-like moment in modern art history, the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) became the shrine of (literally) groundbreaking outdoor art, integrated with astonishing architecture. The most famous is the multi-story mosaic murals of Juan O'Gorman, produced in Michelangelo-like incredulity between 1948 and 1955. Wrapping all four sides of the stark library structure, the murals depict key moments of Mexican history and culture. Just to the south, in an ecological reserve, lay an environmental artwork straight out of Kubrick’s 2001 A Space Odyssey. Six sculptors—Federico Silva, Hersúa, Helen Escobedo, Sebastián, Mathias Goeritz, and Manuel Felguérez together imagined and constructed this 120-meter diameter ring of volcanic stone featuring 64 triangular forms arranged in a perfect circle around a field of lava rock. Think Stonehenge–on steroids. Fanning out from the circle is the Sculpture Walk, a sculptors’ nature trail featuring individual (and climbable) large-format sculptures by each of the six “Circle”artists. ___ SPOTLIGHT: Teotihuacan Pyramid The Manhattan of Mesoamerica, this ancient city predates the Aztec Empire by several centuries, –roughly the first half of the first millennium (1 CE to 500 CE). Teotihuacan was the largest city in the Americas, with a population of at least 25,000, but some estimates have it at 125,000 residents, maybe more. Located 25 miles northeast of México City, it is the most architecturally significant Mesoamerican pyramid in the Americas. Or, more accurately, two pyramids. Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon. 100% worth the drive from CDMX, so long as you wear comfy climbing shoes and good sun protection. Once you come down from the Sun and Moon, a surprisingly good restaurant, La Gruta awaits you underground, in a cave! Light a candle to make a wish after your lunch and head back into town for dinner. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Croatia reclines along the Adriatic like an easygoing neighbor. Just 100 nautical miles from Italy, hard-won pride resonates where not so long ago, fierce fighting shuddered the nation in a protracted battle for independence. CROATIA Croatia reclines along the Adriatic like an easygoing neighbor. Just 100 nautical miles from Italy, hard-won pride resonates where not so long ago, fierce fighting shuddered the nation in a protracted battle for independence. Today its bucolic landscape and well preserved architectural heritage welcomes all with the warmth of a grandma’s embrace. CAVTAT Walk Along the Waterfront DUBROVNIK Explore a Medieval Magical Wonder OMIS A Treasure Tucked into Coastal Cliffs SPLIT Roman Splendor in a Modern Port City VIS ISLAND Indulge in Timeless Charm

The world’s most remote location from any mainland is also the place on earth that receives the most rainfall, (roughly 450 inches per year). But by any measure, the “Garden Isle” is truly the height of exotic, tropical beauty. KAUAI, HAWAII The world’s most remote location from any mainland is also the place on earth that receives the most rainfall, (roughly 450 inches per year). But by any measure, the “Garden Isle” is truly the height of exotic, tropical beauty. FIVE FAVES / KAUAI Kokee State Park 45 miles of the state’s finest hiking trails wind their way through wet forests and dry ledges, leading to sweeping views of Waimea Canyon and the Napali coast. Cliffsides stand like flanks of bayonets, daring the clouds to advance, eventually forcing a surrender of 70 inches of rainfall annually. Kokee road meanwhile weaves up from the west, arriving within a few easy steps of the most incredible view of them all, the Kalalau Lookout . ___ Limahuli Garden and Preserve A misty canyon cradles a self-sustaining, social-ecological practice known to Hawaiians as “Ahupua”. An ancient tradition where land is divided into “pie slice” parcels, starting at the rain-drenched top point of the island, assuring fresh water flows equitably through terraced farms below as each valley widens towards the sea. “The plants, the people and the place” are equal and essential contributors to its well being. This gorgeous garden also nurtures countless endangered native plants and birds. Visitors are welcome. Reservations are advised. ___ Hanalei Bay The day pulls away like a ship. All of us who remain ashore look forward to its colorful return tomorrow. Just moments ago, the departing sun briefly glazed this beach in gold, as if leaving a parting gift. A treasure that quickly vanished into the Hawaiian twilight. ___ Hanalei Pier It may be called a pier but it’s more like a rough hewn temple, or for some a diving board. Reaching out from the shore, this simple walkway leads to the most magnificent view of paradise, where the clouds applaud a brilliant performance as the sun takes a bow. ___ 1 Hotel Hanalei Bay The sea rolls in, lead by a frothy flank of whitecaps advancing into Hanalei Bay, just as a cappuccino rolls in from room service, sporting its own frothy cap. Such are the synergies of the “Garden Isle”, Kauai, at the dreamy 1 Hotel . ___ Yellowfish Trading Company In this portal to old Hawaii, vintage aloha shirts, mid-mod light fixtures, tiki mugs and Hawaiiana treasures fill the shelves. Opened in 1993 after Hurricane Iniki ransacked the island, this little shop helped restore Kauai with some soulful charm. ___ Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge Life along the Hanalei river is Nature’s denizen within reach. Sun bathing turtles mostly ignore the paddling paparazzi, just as resident birds prioritize breakfast over privacy. Tree branches stretch in yoga poses while a breeze whistles Hawaiian tunes through the leaves. Kayak Hanalei ___ Hawaiian Tiki As a guardian of the heiau, (temple) a tiki warrior represents the manifestation of Mana, the ancient Hawaiian belief that spiritual energy flows through all beings and things, balancing power and strength with serenity and dignity. Hand carved Acacia Koa wood tikis by Havaiki Oceanic and Tribal Art Gallery, Hanalei Center ___ Island Farmers Markets Papayas, mangosteens, guavas, passion fruit (AKA lilikoi), coconuts and apple-bananas. Are we in Eden? Even better, it’s the ever-tempting farmers’ markets on Kauai, where local growers gather under neatly arranged tents to sell their home grown wonders. Our bags runneth over at this heavenly outdoor market just past Waioli Huiia church in Hanalei. ___ Anini Beach Light flickers behind craggy tree branches like Balinese puppetry. Along this magical 2 1/2 mile stretch of sand, the water appears calm but it can be swift and strong, especially out near the reef as it shreds the Pacific. A barrier so effective it can turn the tide into a mirror. Daily theatrics that have played for centuries here on Kauai, an island staged at the furthest distance from any mainland. ___ Shave Ice at Kilauea Fish Market Japanese immigrants, who came to the Islands to work in the sugar and pineapple fields in the mid-1800s introduced the concept of kakigori. Meaning shaved ice. They used their tools to shave flakes off large blocks of ice, and then coated it with sugar or fruit juice. In Pidgin vernacular, the refreshing treat became known as shave ice—not shaved ice. (On Hawaii Island, it’s also called “ice shave”.) Eventually, the ice flakes were fashioned with hand-cranked machines; some stores still operate them today. Shave ice is softly mounded in a cup, or sometimes a cone, and generously drizzled with colorful syrups. Some natural, some not. On Kauai, one can enjoy all-natural fruit syrups at The Fresh Shave in Koloa. The delightful specimen shown here features papaya and lilikoi drizzle + a gummy worm, as served at Kilauea Fish Market , who have clearly mastered more than the art of preparing fabulous fish! ___ Allerton Garden Shifting palm shadows brush the window like hands fussing with a long sheer curtain. An antique poster bed and a well-loved Hawaiian quilt suggest the presence of a grandmother, but this is a gentleman’s bedroom. One of two men who lived here, in this island home, together, amid a tropical garden carved out of a sugarcane valley, between the wars, a world away from judgement. Their guests, actors, artists and heiresses arrived from the mainland by ocean liner. The era of modern air travel was still awaiting take off. About the same time that Georgia O’Keefe immersed herself in New Mexico at Ghost Ranch, fully removed from the modern frenzy of Manhattan, Robert and John Gregg Allerton found themselves at home on the island of Kauai. Their hands deep in Hawaiian soil and their toes in the sand. They wore kimonos at cocktail hour and promenaded like peacocks in gardens of their own design. One of which is a formal, four-cornered “room”,—with no ceiling. Instead, a mural of real sky and clouds overhead. At night it became a ballroom, lit by the stars. Outsmarting the rules of a frowning society, they legalized their relationship with the older Robert adopting John as his son, keeping the dream in the family for half a life longer. Upon John’s passing in 1986, this 80 acre botanical fantasy was left in trust for all to enjoy, now managed by the non-profit National Tropical Botanical Garden . Guided tours by reservation. ___ Hanapepe Swinging Bridge Part wooden bridge, part childhood swing, this creaking span outs one’s inner child. Perhaps this is what walking on a cloud feels like—but with less grace. Its cartoon sway animated further by the bravado of a young brat midway across. The return is easier, having acclimated to instability. Back on land, and walking straight again, follow the turn-of-the-century storefronts to Talk Story Bookstore “the westernmost bookstore in the US”. ___ Waimea Plantation Cottages Not far from the entrance to Waimea Canyon, the sun swept west shore of Kauai feels strangely warm and blustery, having come ‘round the island from the rain-slicked east shore. A place to sink one’s toes in the earth tone sand, or glide across the wide lawn, each blade of grass lazily waving aloha to the setting sun. Pass beneath the reach of banyan tree limbs as they strike a pose like mimes. Here, 59 authentic plantation cottages, once home to field workers in the late 1800s, nestle comfortably on 43-acres of tropical oceanfront. Thoughtfully refurbished, these one-to-five-bedroom cottages welcome their guests with comfortable Hawaii-style furniture, fully equipped kitchens and private lanais at surprisingly affordable rates. Like fingerprints from the past, no two cottages are the same, except in charm. ___ Kilauea Lighthouse Lighthouses keep ships from running aground, but this one kept an airplane from being lost at sea. In 1927, five weeks after Lindbergh’s transatlantic triumph, two Army pilots dared a more difficult navigational feat, the first transpacific flight from California to Hawaii. Aloft for a full day and night, the three-engine “Bird of Paradise” approached the islands before dawn. Shockingly, their compass and directional radio receiver both malfunctioned, leaving the pilots to search the darkened void. Just then, a flash from the Kilauea Lighthouse allowed them to recalibrate their position and land safely on Oahu, 25 hours and 50 mins after taking off from Oakland. Today the lighthouse continues to protect actual “birds of paradise” as a stunning National wildlife refuge. ___ Lumahai Beach As we wind down on our time here on the Garden Isle, we ponder its beauty and power, its fragile environment and ferocious sea. The veil of its natural allure often masks potential peril. While Lumahai Beach is the subject of many postcards and paintings, it is also one of the most dangerous beaches for drownings and not recommended for swimming. Admire and respect its stunning wonder but stay clear of the surf. Now we brush off the sand one last time before heading to the airport. But first, one last look, imagining Mitzi Gaynor singing “I’m gonna wash that man right out of my hair” in the 1958 movie “South Pacific”, filmed right here on Lumahai Beach . ___ INSPIRATION : A touch of the islands for your world at home. Tiki Collectables A warrior’s glare looms, his face paint swirling like typhoons. Meet the defender of tropical kitsch and his clan, here to protect-and-serve tiki drinks. Ah, the allure of swarthy and sweet concoctions –in tiki mugs. The fruits of rum-soaked islands, oceans away. But this languid lore is not limited to imbibing. Tiki mugs also make fun vases and/or colorful, sculptural mantle art. Display the whole unruly tribe as a bookshelf collection! Check out the best in rum-punchy porcelain at tikifarm.com . Imagine an eclectic cache of tikis in one’s own humble hale. The spirit(s) of the south seas, right at home. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

The ultimate painterly landscape. Its pastel colors dappled like brushstrokes across every field and hillside, in every storybook village and at each sumptuous meal. PROVENCE, FRANCE The ultimate painterly landscape. Its pastel colors dappled like brushstrokes across every field and hillside, in every storybook village and at each sumptuous meal. FIVE FAVES / PROVENCE Rosé in Roussillon A visit to Roussillon is a most colorful experience. As if inspired by a bowl of butter mints, the pastels that define the town soften its medieval past and welcome life in the moment. ___ Market Day in Lourmarin Sunlight inches down ancient walls in Lourmarin as chilled shadows hold their ground, for the moment. A climbing vine in starlet lipstick red finds its light as croissants and coffee alight our sidewalk table. An old couple score the first flowers at the farmers’ market while most vendors are still readying their wares. Shopkeepers flip their window signs to “ouvert”, as a sleepy shepherd signs off, having found a perfect chin rest ‘neath a cafe chair. ___ Morning Light in Lacoste Morning light threads through the ridge trees across the valley, eventually reaching the walls of the artful hilltop village of Lacoste. Artful in many ways. One, it’s the European home of SCAD (Savannah College of Art and Design). Two: Style icon Pierre Cardin took such a shine to the town, he bought up much of it, fashioning the ragged ruins into the “Saint Tropez of Culture” in Provence. But this morning the dawn owns it, turning cold stone walls into bricks of gold. The infamous hedonist Marquis de Sade once hung his chapeau at Chateau Lacoste, (when he wasn’t incarcerated for his carnal exploits). ___ Les Baux-de-Provence Grand white colonnades tower overhead in this underground acropolis of idled limestone quarries, now known as Carrières des Lumières. Immersive explorations of artists’ masterpieces are projected upon these galleries of stone hidden within the mountain slopes of northwest Provence. ___ City of a Thousand Fountains This curious moss-covered fountain from 1691 AD speaks to us, possibly in the voice of a quirky Star Wars character. Fontaine des Neuf-Canons, in the town of Aix en Provence is so named for its nine water spouts delightfully dribbling at a popular meet-up spot on the Cours Mirabeau walk street. But the grande dame of Aix fountains is surely Fontaine de la Rotonde, where countless cars, people and birds are drawn to its orbit. Aix’s many fountains originally performed a more utilitarian role, hosting sheep and other livestock as they were herded along in the heat of summer. ___ Gorgeous Gordes It may look like a sleepy village but this enchanted town in Provence is also known for its feisty and resilient qualities. “Gordians” are renowned for their rebellious spirit, sparking many a medieval battle and mustering dauntless support for Resistance fighters in World War II. Soothing its fighting spirit these days are adorable restaurants, cafes and romantic walkways. Coming or going, all roads lead to the signature view of Gordes from across a stoney ravine, where each hillside home appears to be a lookout from another century. Does a perfect setting make the food taste more amazing? In Provence it’s hard to distinguish between great flavors and fabulous surroundings. La Trinquette Gordes is a perfect example, (except here we are quite certain the food is just as impressive as the place). And the place is unforgettable. Seated atop centuries of French history in one of Provence’s most stunning villages. ___ Vibrant Rare Finds at the Avignon Flea Market Just outside the walls of the old city, a motley assemblage of sellers gather to barter away their eclectic wares at the Avignon Flea Market under the warm Provençal sun. ___ SPOTLIGHT: The Fresh Princes of Provence For those of us who dream of chucking reality and moving to Provence, here is a lovely living example: @le_farmhouse . This fabulous couple recently took on a new life in a classic two-level French farmhouse, where the original farmers lived upstairs and the livestock called the ground floor home. Thanks to the vision and talent of Dave & David, both floors are now reimagined in thoughtful, casual elegance, along with 22 formerly neglected acres that are now home to an exclusive Domaine du Chêne Vert olive oil and a lot of love. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next