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Roman splendor in a modern port city greets seafarers arriving with stories and suntans from the nearby Dalmatian Islands. SPLIT, PORTUGAL Roman splendor in a modern port city greets seafarers arriving with stories and suntans from the nearby Dalmatian Islands. Palace Coup In this bustling port city, modern automobiles and streamlined ships meet Roman antiquity. “Soldiers” in red and gold regalia enliven the piazzas along the waterfront where the skyline is punctuated with ancient columns like in Rome. The city was originally an ancient palace built for the Roman emperor Diocletian at the turn of the fourth century AD. Half for him and half for an army garrison. The “palace” forms about half the old town of Split. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

A treasure tucked into coastal cliffs, this shelter from the Adriatic draws one in as if by song, to study the striations carved by the ages into the rising reaches of limestone. OMIS, CROATIA A treasure tucked into coastal cliffs, this shelter from the Adriatic draws one in as if by song, to study the striations carved by the ages into the rising reaches of limestone. History by the Sea Before the Cetina river reaches the ocean, it greets this tiny seaside village, 25 kilometers south of Croatia’s second-largest city, Split. Stone walkways are tucked into the folds of rugged seaside cliffs like bookmarks, each making its way up toward gaggles of modest homes and well tended gardens. Views of the river and the glow of the sea come into view the higher one climbs. ___ Rent-A-View Colorful tour boats sit like swans along the shore of the Cetina river where it widens to meet the sea. Handsome boatmen escort visitors upstream to behold its soaring stone cliffs. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Like a sampler box of each island, Oahu has Maui’s beaches, Kauai’s waterfalls, Lanai’s pineapple fields, Molokai’s mountains and Hawaii Island’s ancient relics, plus groundbreaking art, music, food, nightlife and of course, surfing. The only thing missing is an active volcano. OAHU, HAWAII Like a sampler box of each island, Oahu has Maui’s beaches, Kauai’s waterfalls, Lanai’s pineapple fields, Molokai’s mountains and Hawaii Island’s ancient relics, plus groundbreaking art, music, food, nightlife and of course, surfing. The only thing missing is an active volcano. FIVE FAVES / OAHU Surf Lore Oahu is known as the Gathering Place–and most gatherings come with surfboards. They are everywhere, in all colors and sizes. In Honolulu, shirtless surfers tote their prized accessory through luxury shopping centers along well-known shortcuts to the sea. Satisfied smiles and sandy toes return home after a morning of balancing atop unfurling waves powered by the pull of the moon. ___ Leahi & Makalei Beach Parks Almost hidden at the foot of Diamond Head are two oceanfront pocket parks so charming one wonders where the impressionist painters are. The lawn at Makalei Beach Park gives rise to yoga classes and meditation, while a little farther down Diamond Head Road lies Leahi Beach Park, where a stately vine-encased gazebo holds court at the seas’s edge. Down its salty steps at low tide, much is revealed in the receding surf. ___ Kaimana Beach If ever there was a “local’s” favorite beach, this is it. Home to all-day ohana picnics, morning paddle boarding, midday snorkeling, and the dreamiest of sunsets–and moon-sets, Kaimana Beach is warm and welcoming, like family. Sheltered by a reef that shreds the surf into a lake-like calm, a swim here ‘neath the swaying trade winds is (literally) an immersive sensory experience. ___ Kaimana Beach Hotel Arriving here feels like home, (assuming one’s home is a paradise of warm sand, shaded in brushstroke palm shadows, set to the rhythm of gentle waves and the occasional howl of a blender). Far from the frenzy of Waikiki, but close enough to walk to it, the Kaimana is perfectly located and right-sized, between the vast greenery of Kapiolani Park and the blue infinity of the Pacific. Simple rooms and a beloved beachside cafe tucked beneath a twisting Hau Tree. The same tree Robert Lewis Stephenson wrote poetry under in 1889. ___ Kapiolani Park Named after Queen Kapiolani, with Diamond Head forming its unmistakable crown, this great park nestles deep in the heart of Oahu locals. 300 acres of serenity located just east of Waikiki’s commotion. Expressive banyan trees generously canopy picnic areas, as manicured lawns host myriad activities. Kapiolani Park includes the Honolulu Zoo where Giraffes can be seen taking advantage of their height, peering over the perimeter fence at passersby below. ___ Shangri la Perched like a stately white seabird on a slab of black lava, Doris Duke’s Hawaiian estate is now a museum “dedicated to the furtherance and preservation of Islamic art”. In fact, the only museum dedicated exclusively to Islamic art in the United States, open to scholars, students and the public, as so directed in her will. Ms Duke, in her day the wealthiest woman in America, commissioned architect Marion Sims Wyeth, to realize a vision inspired by travels to Arabic countries, along with life and culture in Hawaii. Islamic architectural precision meets Hawaiian ease and openness. Quirky ingenuity also plays into the design with a massive glass livingroom door that, instead of sliding open, retracts into the floor—with a stop-setting at three feet high so she could enjoy the ocean breezes indoors while also keeping the dogs in. Tour tickets are available through the Honolulu Museum of Art . ___ Honolulu Museum of Art Perhaps the most satisfying art museum anywhere, this humble space, assembled around airy courtyards invites guests to enjoy its casual grace the way a favorite neighbor might welcome you in. A stunning permanent collection that celebrates the Hawaiian landscape and royal heritage forms the foundation for inspiring temporary exhibits and events. Not to mention the lovely alfresco cafe and extensive gift shop, themselves reason enough for a visit! ___ Downtown Inspirations Adding soul to state bureaucracy are some sculptural and architectural surprises in downtown HNL, amid the lawns of the state capital and Iolani palace. Noguchi’s Skygate (1977) is an imposing black steel “portal” linking the earth and cosmos, (or as Noguchi put it, “an evocation to the skies of Hawaii”). Its undulating form celebrates the twice-a-year phenomenon nicknamed “Lahaina Noon” where shadows normally cast by the sun vanish as the solar rays are angled straight down. Come see for yourself on May 26th, 12:28 pm, and on July 16th, 12:37 pm. Ever beautiful Queen Lilioukalani stands with “steadfast devotion in the hearts of her loyal people”. Fresh flowers are thoughtfully placed upon her likeness, an act of aloha that she appears to graciously offer in turn. The State Capitol rises like a modernist temple, its open-air architecture incorporating Hawaiian symbolic references to tall coconut palms, surging volcanoes, and the surrounding sea. –Between Beretania and King streets at Punchbowl Ave. ___ In the Pink The Royal Hawaiian Hotel opened in 1927 like a pink hibiscus bloom welcoming the sunrise. Today, as then, its windows frame the angular contours of Diamond Head and languid curve of Waikiki bay. Its pink walls the perfect complement to the turquoise surf. Built on the exact location in paradise where King Kamehameha slept and Queen Liliuokalani summered, “royal” is indeed its reality, but in family-style. Bellmen, bartenders and housekeepers exude “ohana”, some having worked at the hotel for decades. Join the sunrise salutation on the beach and find your aloha as you immerse in the gentle waves. And by all means, rehydrate at the Mai Tai Bar, saluting the sunset with Hawaii’s ultimate elixir. ___ Chinatown A gritty quirkiness is etched into the old storefronts and aged faces along these fading movie-set streets. Asian calligraphy flickers and sways beneath 1800’s overhangs that still shade the sidewalks. Fantastic vintage shops, lively restaurants, and the best prices on fragrant lei are found here. The best lei shops are Cindy’s and Tina’s. Single Double and Hound & Quail are world-class vintage stores selling delightfully kitschy local wares. Native Books is a treasured emporium of Hawaiian heritage and innovative crafts. As tiki bars go Skull & Crown is so unique you’ll need a reservation. Oʻahu’s favorite food truck has evolved into a destination Vietnamese restaurant here, The Pig & The Lady . CHINATOWN TIPS: Cindy’s Lei Shoppe Single Double GQ’s take on Single Double, Hawaii Hound & Quail Native Books Skull & Crown Trading Co. ___ Honolulu Botanical Gardens Eucalyptus trees in skintight camouflage stand tall like tent poles supporting the jungle canopy, while their long scissor-shaped leaves cut the afternoon sun to ribbons. Trails sidewind down to a creek that one can hear but not see in this dense showcase of Hawaiian flora. Each standout species is definitively labeled along paths of discovery in this, one of Honolulu’s five well-maintained but wildly-natural gardens. ___ The Art of Lei Hawaii’s floral gift of aloha is a thread that binds peace, love, honor and friendship. A petaled chain linking us to the honored traditions of Hawaiian ancestry. A lei represents love. Giving a lei is an offering of one’s love. For this reason, never throw away a lei, as it would suggest throwing away the love of the giver. Instead, return the lei to the earth by hanging it in a tree or burying it, or let it dry naturally and eventually place it onto a fire. May Day in Hawaii is Lei Day, honoring the custom of lei making with symbolism and pageantry. Each island joins in the celebration, represented in its official-color and flower: Hawaii: red, ohia lehua Maui: pink, lokelani Kahoolawe: gray or silver, hinahina Lanai: orange, kaunaoa Oahu: yellow or gold, ilima Molokai: green, kukui Kauai: purple, mokihana Niihau: white, pupu o Niihau shells Our two favorite lei shops can be found on the same quiet block of Maunakea Street in Chinatown. Cindy’s : 1034 Maunakea St. (808) 536-6538 Tina’s: 1136 Maunakea St. (808) 888-5310 ___ Allure of Diamond Head 19th century British mariners who came ashore at the foot of this now iconic mountain thought the sparkling calcite crystals in the sand were diamonds, hence the name. Its Hawaiian name is Leahi (brow of the tuna) in reference to the formation’s ridge line which resembles a dorsal fin. Stunning views of the Pacific Ocean and Honolulu reward one’s hike to the top of this 300,000-year old crater, the centerpiece of Hawaii's most popular State Park. ___ Diamond Head Community Gardens Diamond Head smiles down upon this sinless garden of Eden where ceramic Buddha’s and metal frogs frolic at the feet of bean stalks and stands of Swiss Chard. Neatly-arranged, beds of rich soil are tended to by their respective gardeners, each producing a stunning bounty of fruit, vegetables and flowers. Guests are welcomed to stroll through and admire–but not touch. Adjacent to Kapiolani park, one block south of Monsarrat Ave, between Paki and Leahi Avenues. ___ Local Eats (good and cheap) Island grocery store deli counters are as thrilling as seeing sea life through the widows at the Oahu Aquarium. The standout is Foodland stores, where thoughtfully prepared sushi and poke is made daily with the freshest fish at the most affordable prices. Small mom ‘n’ pop delis also crank out daily picnic plate lunches, featuring Ahi tuna rolls, Kalua pork, Lau Lau Chicken and much more. Among the best are Hawaii Sushi , Masa & Joyce and Waiahole Poi Factory , Diamond Head Market & Grill . ___ Kaimuki This delightfully eclectic neighborhood rests on the inland slope of Diamond Head. In the 1800’s, "Kai-moo-key" was King Kalakaua’s ostrich farm. Today, “ostrich”, might be found as a fabric pattern in several boutiques along Waialae Avenue, the main (but quirky) shopping corridor that cuts through the neighborhood. Creativity is a common chord resonating in Kaimuki, the boyhood home of revered Hawaiian musician, Israel Kamakawiwoole. Not to miss : The ever-scrumptious Mud Hen Water restaurant, the inventive and elegant Island Boy boutique , the mid-mod charm of Bean About Town coffee, and the vast and tasty Saturday Farmer’s Market at Kapiolani Community College. ___ KCC Farmer's Market Saturdays in Honolulu have added reason to celebrate the weekend with an amazing gathering of farmers, food trucks, bakers, florists, artists and healers known as the KCC Farmers Market. Nestled in the shaded parking lot of Kapiolani Community College, the combined superpowers of homegrown-Hawaii converge to trade their wares with an adoring public. Come early, it’s that good–and popular! ___ Tongg's Beach Towers These days, developers are required to build apartment and hotel towers at a responsible distance from the shore, but this eclectic collection of condos-in-paradise were built before those thoughtful state ordinances were introduced. Forgiving their shoreline proximity, each of these buildings at Tongg’s Beach, (where Kalakaua Ave meets Coconut Ave at the foot of Diamond Head), is a modernist marvel, designed by foremost architects of their day. Most notably, Vladimir Ossipoff , considered Hawaii’s Neutra, whose inventiveness and variety of styles is evident in many buildings on Oahu. Here, Ossipoff envisioned an Asian theatrical fantasy, complete with arched bridges dancing about like an over-caffeinated Kyoto temple. Ossipoff’s ultimate masterpiece is the Liljestrand House , a residence that seems to naturally emerge from its perch in the foothills high above Honolulu. One must reserve well ahead, but it’s worth the effort. ___ Waikiki Beach One might believe that Hawaiian gods poured sugar along this heavenly crescent to form the world’s most stunning beach. (The truth is, it’s civil engineers who, over time, have repurposed sand from nearby shoals–and faraway Manhattan Beach, CA in an effort to restore this 2 mile stretch of paradise). ___ In Hawaiian, Waikiki means spouting fresh water, for the springs and streams which fed the ancient wetlands here on the south shore of Oʻahu. In the 1800s, the grounds of Waikiki’s Royal Hawaiian Hotel once served as a retreat for Hawaiian royalty who surfed the local swells atop longboards. It was here that “Duke” earned his fame as the king of surfing. Also on this hallowed ground is the beautiful Royal Hawaiian Center, the crown jewel of retail and dining, with daily cultural performances set in its Royal Grove. Waikiki is indeed a wild contrast between glorious nature rolling in on turquoise waves and delirious shopping tugging on your wallet like a riptide. And that’s just by day! As evening arrives, slip on that new Fendi for sunset cocktails and truly great hula at House Without a Key, followed by dinner at Morimoto Asia. Then cap the night off with jazz at the Blue Note. Finally, you’ll want to kick off those shoes you just bought and walk back to your hotel with your toes in the sand. The Royal Hawaiian Hotel Royal Hawaiian Center House Without A Key Morimoto Asia Waikiki Blue Note Waikiki ___ Duke Paoa Kahanamoku He greets the dawn each day, offering warmth and aloha to the early sunlight headed straight for the beach like so many surfers. The sculpture of “DUKE” at Kalakaua & Uluniu avenues honors the ultimate surfer and Hawaiʻi’s first tourism icon. He introduced the term “aloha” to the world, always noting that it is much more than a greeting. The spirit of aloha. “Alo” means “face”, as in to “face one another”. “Ha” means breath, to “breathe kindness and compassion into the world”. Duke proved that every day of his life. Including one stormy day in 1925, off Newport Beach, CA when he rescued eight fishermen tossed from their capsized boat using just his hands and his surfboard to pull them from the roiling sea one by one. Such heroism stands eternal now in bronze, perpetually-laden with fresh Lei, embodying the spirit of aloha amid sidewalk passersby and Waikiki beachgoers, just as he did in life. ___ Riding the Oahu Railway The breeze rustles our hair as we speed along at a mighty 2 miles-per-hour. Patience is a virtue aboard this vintage train as it trudges up the coast towards its one whistle stop for ice cream. We can nearly spy our destination on the horizon as the converging tracks point like a compass needle to Ko Olina Station. At times our goal appears to move farther away despite the earnest huff and puff of the locomotive. But arrive we finally do, to the shaded lawns of this hand-created oasis amid the sun-baked hardscabble of Oahu’s western shore. Children wave their Black Sheep Cream cones as adults hail mai tais topped with lilikoi foam at Monkeypod Kitchen bar. Then it’s back on the rails for the reverse ride back to Ewa Beach where a toy train museum completes our adventure. We highly recommend booking seats on Parlor Car 64, the deluxe personal coach of railway founder, Benjamin Dillingham, resplendent in oak, mahogany and birds-eye maple decor and rattan seats, running every second-Sunday of the month. Oahu Railway Black Sheep Cream Co. Monkeypod Kitchen by Merriman ___ Byodo-In Temple A structure resplendent in a shade of red so loud one may feel it from afar. Or, perhaps that’s the sound of the three ton “bon-sho” brass bell ringing with repeated resonance like a mantra. We queue up to send a wish flying on a long log-on-a-rope that pounds into the side of the sacred bell, rendering a tone said to bring happiness, blessings, and a long life. The temple, a replica of a 1,000-year old Byodo-In Temple in Uji, Japan is set against the heaving green velvet curtain wall known as the Koolau mountains. The temple’s primary resident, Amida Buddha sits in golden splendor amid this hallowed fold in the Valley of the Temples Memorial Park, Kaneohe on the windward side of Oahu. ___ Pill Box Trail (aka: Kaiwa Trail) This is why God created all-terrain sneakers and Tevas. A heavenly 30-minute slippery slope that delivers hikers to a spectacular view of Lani Kai beach with its busty twin islands rising from an impossibly-turquoise sea as the languid windward coast stretches out in both directions, all poised against the wickedly jagged wall of the Koolau Mountains. Not to mention the two namesake WWII “pillbox” lookout bunkers to contemplate atop once you reach the heights. The Kaiwa trailhead is located in Lani Kai, on Kaelepulu Dr, opposite the Mid-Pacific Country Club. ___ KAILUA During the Obama era, I used to refer to Kailua as “paradise at the presidential level”, given the then president’s penchant for this perfect beach on his home island. In any era, this is perfection. Especially mornings, walking the dogs along the sugary-white crescent of sand from one end to the other—and back. Nico’s Kailua serves great meals and local music at the north end of town while Buzz’s Steak House tantalizes the south end with strong mai tais and a menu of favorites. Kailua Beach Park Nico's Kailua Buzz's Original Steak House ___ Kawela Bay A blissful Sunday drive around the entire island of Oahu is a day spent visiting every Hawaiian island, as Oahu is a sampler of all of them. Perhaps the best part of the drive is the least-known. The hidden pleasure of Kawela Bay, with its gentle surf and crescent beach. A fruit stand on the inland side of Kamehameha Hwy 38 marks the spot at Kawela Camp Rd, just west of Turtle Bay. Park on the roadside and slip through the official gap in the fence, then amble straight to the seashore under the haunted arms of ancient Banyan trees to the crystal blue bay. Stretch out your towel on the warm sand and ponder the years that have passed without you knowing of such tranquil beauty. ___ Drive-Through Paradise Hoomaluhia Botanical Garden is a drive-through paradise. Every pull-off along the tranquil roadway represents a unique tropical region from around the world. Leaves of every sort and size wave as we pass while crazy arrays of birds chirp and flutter. Known as "a peaceful refuge”, the park was designed to provide flood protection for Kaneohe, in perhaps the most artful work ever built by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. Even the restrooms and picnic pavilions blend in as modernist tributes to the natural surroundings. Hoomaluhia Botanical Garden ___ A Tale of Two Heiaus The Hawaiian Heiau is a place of worship from ancient times. Some were sacred religious complexes where rituals involving human or animal sacrifice and other ceremonies took place. Today, their geometric black lava ruins rest in reverent silence on beds of verdant grasses. KEAIWA HEIAU This kinder, gentler temple is believed to have life-giving powers where Hawaiian herb doctors once practiced, using select herbs grown in nearby gardens. PUU O MAHUKA HEIAU A massive shrine embossed on the landscape atop an high cliff, this, the largest Heiau on Oahu overlooks Waimea Bay and the abundant Waimea Valley. It’s torchlights served as a communications system with neighboring Kauai island. Top two images: Keaiwa Heiau Bottom image: Puu O Mahuka Heiau ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Évora has everything one could ask for in a historic village, from an intimate chapel with human bones as the interior design theme, to a grand cathedral where one may take a walk on the roof. AND the columns of a Roman temple standing sentry at the very center of town. ÉVORA, PORTUGAL Évora has everything one could ask for in a historic village, from an intimate chapel with human bones as the interior design theme, to a grand cathedral where one may take a walk on the roof. AND the columns of a Roman temple standing sentry at the very center of town. The Road to Ruins Ham and cheese with a temple on the side. The Roman Temple of Évora maintains its timeless stand atop this inland Portuguese town, where locals and visitors traverse its cobbled roads to ruins. Évora is home to monumental Roman archeology, soaring cathedrals, small shops and the inevitable lunch at an outdoor cafe in the shade of centuries past. ___ Gothic Glow A fortified church dating back to 1186, Évora Cathedral is the largest in Portugal. Its cloister, added in 1325 invites a climb to the rooftop where its tapering roofline feels like a bridge to somewhere. Lined with castle-style battlements, the roof provided a 360 degree defense from the highest point of this hilltop city. Portals that today offer a peaceful panorama of the entirety of Évora and beyond. ___ Interior Design to Die For The Chapel of Bones was built by Franciscan monks in the late 16th century, tasked with relocating human remains from cemeteries around Évora due to the high value of land. Hence a rethinking of cemetery internment. Simultaneously, these enterprising monks reimagined interior design for churches, festooning the surfaces with all things skeletal. They topped it off with an ominous greeting above the door: “Nós ossos que aqui estamos, pelos vossos esperamos,” or: “We bones, are here, waiting for yours.” They also offered a traveler advisory, inscribed on one of the bony pillars: “Where are you going in such a hurry, traveler? Stop, for the sake of your journey. For the more you pause, the further on your journey you will be.” ___ Stonehenge’s Southern Sister The Cromlech of the Almendres is the Stonehenge of Portugal and one of the largest megalithic stone circles in Europe. Positioned on an east-facing axis, at sunrise it aligns to the spring and autumn equinoxes. On those dates, when the day and night is of equal length, the sun and moon rise at the same point on the monument’s principal stones, including the imposing Menhir dos Almendres, rising four phallic meters towards the stars. Located without fanfare in the middle of a cork tree forest, this monumental site is unfenced, free and open 24/7. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Explore the wonder of this worldy city whose welcoming expanse of the Rio Tejo celebrates the explorers who launched their wooden galleons from this very spot in the 15th century in search of the New World. LISBON, PORTUGAL Explore the wonder of this worldy city whose welcoming expanse of the Rio Tejo celebrates the explorers who launched their wooden galleons from this very spot in the 15th century in search of the New World. FIVE FAVES / LISBON The Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology MAAT seems to have just landed like a graceful bird upon this modern gateway to the city. The subjects of art, architecture and technology come together all under one incredible roof. From atop, one beholds a 180 degree view of the river, while just below, an arc of terraced steps offer another perfect perch. ___ Belém Tower All roads (and tiled sidewalks) lead to the the river that launched a thousand dreams. Belém Tower, or the Tower of St. Vincent is a 15th century fortification that symbolized the Portuguese maritime accomplishments of the 15th century. The tower stands at the mouth of the Tagus river, initially as a defense garrison and now as the ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. ___ The Cultural Centre of Belém Across Avenida de Brasília from the fabled Lisbon waterfront, one may discover a new world of contemporary art and innovative architecture. Remarkable exhibits and music await an afternoon’s indulgence at the aforementioned MAAT and, just across the highway, at The Cultural Centre of Belém . This large building houses The Berardo Collection Museum which features various indoor and outdoor galleries exhibiting impressive collections (and the occasional al fresco film screening). Open every day for art lovers —and true loves. Rejuvenate alfresco, at Este Oeste Pizza and Sushi , soaking up its sunny rooftop terrace, reasonably priced delights —and some good rosé! ___ Cross Over, Children! While Lisbon lazes about on its beautiful north shore of the Rio Tejo, a short ferry ride across to the Almada side delivers an even more laid back vibe. What looks like an abandoned waterfront, lined with the remains of old buildings, is surprisingly full of life, delightfully lubricated with Vino Verde’s and serving up unforgettable alfresco dining and sensational views. Best to make a reservation because this quaint discovery hidden away on the ancient docks is actually quite popular, Ristorante Ponto Final and Atira-te ao Rio Restaurante. ___ Pastéis de Nata One of the true pleasures of travel is discovering local edible wonders such as Portugal’s own Pastéis de Nata. Tiny custard tarts that all too easily fit between the thumb and forefinger, enjoyed with an espresso. The much heralded home of these traditional treats is Pastéis de Belém , with its centuries-old secret recipe attributed to kitchen-wizard monks from the Jerónimos Monastery. Understated from the outside, the bakery is a haven of delight on the inside, —indeed a metaphor for their famous bite size treasures. ___ Views from Above The highest point in Lisbon welcomes you not with a herald of bells but with a ringing view of the city. Established in the 1st century BC, the fortification sits atop a steep hillside, crowning the cobbled twists and turns of the Alfama neighborhood. Lisbon is a collection of views awarded to those whose knees can endure the ascent and/or descent. The bell tower of Castelo de Sao Jorge is one such reward, atop the highest hill in the city. Well worth the climb, the fortress defends a 360 panorama of the city and its sparkling River Tagus. One may avoid the multitude of steps, reaching it via taxi or transit, but where’s the sport in that? A fun way to cheat Lisbon’s relentless climbs is the Santa Justa Lift , the Eiffel Tower of Lisbon, (in fact, designed by a student of Gustave Eiffel) was built in 1901. Rising seven stories straight up, its chief purpose is augmenting hundreds upon hundreds of steps to the top of the commanding hill above the Baixa district. ___ Paved in Art Portugal’s ultimate, treasured tradition is tile. Mosaics are everywhere, shimmering on walls and inlaid into sidewalks, illustrating the history and spirit of this stunning country. ___ Stairway to Heaven Zigzag your way up numerous M.C. Escher-esque staircases, or simply elevate yourself aboard the aforementioned Santa Justa Lift to alight upon one of the coolest sights ever, the Carmo Archaeological Museum . A former convent built in 1389, where the heavens are truly part of the place, due to the roof having collapsed in the great Lisbon earthquake of 1755. Now a stunning indoor/outdoor museum with exhibits related to the history of Lisbon from pre-historic times through to the Middle Ages. The gift shop, with its tall windows looking across the city to the Castle is, in itself, worth the trek. ___ Reaching New Heights As the sun goes down, the music comes up on rooftops all across town. Some packed with revealers dancing with both hands signaling the night sky, some quaint (and comparatively quiet) with a half dozen wealthy winos raising toasts. And, on some hilltop terrace, a lone guitarist frets in Portuguese about a girl who is now likely up on the first rooftop. But it’s not all about imbibing and talking rubbish on rooftops. The night also invites the more bookish to indulge in words of the wise. Ler Devagar Bookstore , with shelves stacked to the high ceiling glows from the inside as it beckons passerby to open a new chapter. ___ Inclined to Enjoy The sidewalks of Lisbon dutifully conform to the city’s hillsides, transforming a level (tile-lined) avenue into a challenging set of stairs, ever upward. Lisbon is not for the faint-of-knee, or ankle. But for those not hampered by lower-extremity limitations, it’s an incredibly beautiful city with rewarding views and points of interest at each summit. Count on stairs being part of any walking tour and for that reason, consider visiting Lisbon in the spring or fall because who wants to traverse stairs under an unrelenting summer sun, or the bracing chill of winter? Regardless of the weather, one can always take the yellow trolley and save one’s knees for another day of exploring this romantic city, home to the very term “explorer”, as the launching port for the Age of Discoveries. Often, what we seek in travel is ascent for the mind and soul. In Lisbon, it's literal. Climb to reach a restaurant, a bar, a club. Climb your way to the pinnacle of Lisboa's Boheme groove. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

A sensual quality of life, matched only by its quality of light. Hence, it is home to the world's most famous Impressionist painters. NICE, FRANCE A sensual quality of life , matched only by its quality of light. Hence, being home to the world’s most famous Impressionist painters, lovers and dreamers. Promenade des Anglais “La Prom”, as it’s affectionately known to locals aligns with the 7 km arc of beach where France meets the Mediterranean in Nice. Well-healed Brits in the late 18th century took to wintering here and funded a paved walkway where they might comfortably “promenade” along the sea shore, hence “Promenade des Anglais”. Nowadays anyone from everywhere can appreciate La Prom, where a long walk makes time stand still. Palais de la Méditerranée is a treasured landmark along the seaside Promenade des Anglais. There’s a certain irony to constructing a grand casino in 1929, the year of the great US stock market crash. Indeed this casino on the French Côte d'Azur was built by a wealthy American. It later was designated a historic architectural landmark which saved its beloved facade from modernization. ___ A NICE Lunch on the Beach Nice, with i ts soft, seductive light drew artists such as Matisse, Chagall and Arman to its pebbled shores. Writers too. Nietzsche invested six consecutive winters in Nice, scribing “Thus Spoke Zarathustra”. Chekhov put the final touches on his play “Three Sisters” while living here. And then there are those who just come to hibernate under a white umbrella . Could there be anything more sublime than a lunch of ceviche and salads on the beach in the south of France? With your best friend. A handsome waiter. And French wine, of course. ___ Horizon Lines It is a line that always reads as level. Definitive and grounded, albeit a distant tumult of tides. The horizon is consistent no matter what shore we may see it from. Anywhere in the world, its reassuring balance looks the same. Not to be outdone, the sky here in Nice also brings on its game, sweeping across the steadfast sea in a dazzling glint of Côte d’Azur glamour. Spotlighting the unique and creative souls who are drawn to this line in the sand. ___ Nice. Moments. Strolling the streets of old town Nice becomes a simultaneous study of ancient and nouveau France. Contemporary life moves easily amid the old stone façades long frozen in time. Each era accommodating the other like a well coordinated stage play with diverse characters, cultures, ages and interests. ___ Eden en Nice An afternoon breeze slips through the sheer white curtains that catch shadows from the garden. The town of Nice itself is a garden. An Eden more about pears and champagne than apples. Temptation here is to stay in, when one’s momentary haven is a Belle Époque space such as this. See Airbnb link for Nice, France: “Lavish Garden Apt in Belle Epoque Listed Palace” . ___ Tête de Moine at Lavomatique Literally translated as “monk’s head”, this scrumptious fromage is spiral-grated off a small round of Alpine Swiss into a dreamy, brainy-looking flower, assembled one petal at a time into a most edible full bloom. Accompanied by the ubiquitous baguette and the essential wine du jour. Lavomatique : Address : 11 Rue du Pont Vieux, 06300 Nice, France Phone : +33 4 93 55 54 18 ___ A Night in Nice The moon is full and creepy beautiful as it slips over the rooftops like a thief, stealing its way into the clouds. The sky is silent and monochrome, but the town is aglow and crackling in all the colors of a holiday hearth. Pull up a chair here on a cobbled old town street and warm the night with some red wine and the spark of where tomorrow may lead. ___ SPOTLIGHT: La Fondation Maeght, Saint-Paul de Vence (16 miles north of Nice) In the late 1950’s two visionary art dealers dreamed of forming an arts collective with some of the world’s most talented painters and sculptors. You know, like building a tree house with friends. In this case, the friends were Georges Braque, Joan Miró and Alberto Giacometti. La Fondation Maeght opened in 1964, the dream child of Aimé and Marguerite Maeght crowning a wooded hillside just north of Nice with light filled galleries and colorful outdoor sculptures. Today, France’s very first private art institution stands like a creative acropolis high above the Côte d'Azur, welcoming art lovers and dreamers. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Considered the "Oxford" of Portugal, Coimbra is the alma mater of kings and presidents. Nowhere in Portugal does the heart and mind come together quite like this hallowed University town. COIMBRA, PORTUGAL Considered the "Oxford" of Portugal, Coimbra is the alma mater of kings and presidents. Nowhere in Portugal does the heart and mind come together quite like this hallowed University town. Caped Crusade The fashion inspiration for the notable coeds of Hogwarts in Harry Potter was in fact the cape-draped students of Coimbra. Founded in 1290, Coimbra is among the oldest universities in continuous operation in the world. ___ Fado Ao Centro It is here, in the town square on a balmy night where one’s heart hits its high note, as “men’s Fado” is performed on the steps of the main cathedral. Different from the women of the Alfama, down in Lisbon with their torch songs of heartbreak, the men in Coimbra sing of comraderie, brotherhood in battle, and the pride of victory. ___ Blinded with Science At the (incredible) Coimbra Science Museum , one encounters grand halls of glass cases featuring vintage scientific instruments along with examples of botanical, zoologic, anthropologic, mineralogical sciences, plus ancient tools of astronomy. In the stairwells linking the collections, centuries-old windows “display” the historic campus itself and the beautifully terraced town below. ___ Joanine Library At the heart of the Coimbra campus, the Joanine Library is one of the most stunning libraries anywhere in the world. Inside, tall walls and gilded ceilings rise like inspiration, almost flying overhead, –coincidental metaphor for the library’s unique archival protection system. Bats are used to protect the timeless content, released in the night from their in-wall cubbies to eat the parchment-hungry insects who might otherwise consume the library’s largess. Not to worry, the library is cleaned of all bat guano each morning before opening. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

The beauty and effervescence of wine country runs deep in the Douro River Valley. The river flows gently, like vino verde into your glass, sparkling at the foot of steep stepped hillsides that climb like vines towards the sky. DOURO RIVER, PORTUGAL The beauty and effervescence of wine country runs deep in the Douro River Valley. The river flows gently, like vino verde into your glass, sparkling at the foot of steep stepped hillsides that climb like vines towards the sky. Uncorking Portugal’s Wine Country Arrive by train, or boat, or car, but no matter your desired conveyance, the river will guide you. It is central to the magic of this region. We like the vintage steam train with its billowing cumulus floating briefly over the river, as we chug along its bends and curves. Rows of grape vines flash by, blending into the ripples on the water. Bathers, tucked in to tranquil river eddies wave as we roll by with a whistle heralding our arrival. ___ An Artisanal Landscape Casa dos Viscondes is splayed out across the landscape like a welcoming picnic blanket, complete with the basket of delights. A long driveway leads through the gates and builds with excitement as we wind our way past the vineyards to the main house. Glorious views open onto the hills as cloud shadows make their way like watercolor animation. ___ Reasons to Howl Here the day goes by with little notice of the time. Especially for the master of the Casa, holding court on the front steps, who assumes guests will make the hurdle over his reddish haunches. In the nearby town of Peso da Régua, shop walls are lined with wine bottled bookshelves like studious libraries. ___ Days of Heaven Like in a daydream, our hotel lay nestled in the folds of steep hillside vineyards along the Douro River, just a few beautiful hours upstream from Porto via train or boat. Once settled in, a long turquoise pool awaits, framed by a summer lawn as warm and soft as a fresh towel. The day is topped off with the crisp delight of local vino verde. The hot sun will soon cool behind the trees as dinner is readied up at the main house. Its stone terrace setting the stage for moonlit retellings of the days’ adventures. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Explore a medieval magical wonder. Behind the formidable walls of this ancient city, there is a sense of openness that feels quite contemporary. An architectural treasure so dramatic it could be its own opera stage—not to mention being the set of Game of Thrones! DUBROVNIK, CROATIA Explore a medieval magical wonder. Behind the formidable walls of this ancient city, there is a sense of openness that feels quite contemporary. An architectural treasure so dramatic it could be its own opera stage—not to mention being the set of Game of Thrones! Timeless Old Town A city in cosplay, this walled medieval village is subject to visiting throngs of Thrones fans taking over the stone streets like scenes from a zombie film. The best way to avoid the invasion of fandom and cruise ship fodder is to rise very early and be among the first through the gates. What greets you then is a freshly rinsed wonder, protected through the ages by a battlement wall that beckons a 360 stroll. The streets and plazas in the center are like candy, enticing the visitor to try one more shop or cafe before closing the box. ___ SPOTLIGHT: Lady PiPi Lady PiPi noted for its playfully pornographic sculpture out front, and it’s freshly grilled delights inside, this patio-under-a-grape-arbor restaurant is the only eatery one needs to know within the walled city. Whole fish sizzle over aromatic wood fires, dutifully attended to and beautifully served. If there’s a wait, it’s worth it, giving one added time to ponder the inspiration for the artwork that “bares” the name, “pipi”. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

A medieval jewel set in a silvery fjord, hidden from time and the outside world. Its cobblestone paths are a crosshatch rendering of life in previous centuries. KOTOR, MONTENEGRO A medieval jewel set in a silvery fjord, hidden from time and the outside world. Its cobblestone paths are a crosshatch rendering of life in previous centuries. Stairway to Heaven Mount Lovcen slants straight down to sea level, framing the village like a theater curtain. One’s early morning hike, straight up a Roman era staircase, the Ladder of Kotor , is a view so sweeping it seems perched at the top of the sky. ___ Bay of Kotor The sensuous bay is host to all variety of vessels, from the world’s largest square-rigged sailing cruise ship, the Royal Clipper twinkling in its evening mooring, to the tiniest fishing boat that somehow stays afloat despite its ballast of two full-grown Montenegrins intent on catching their illusive dinner. ___ Kotor by Candlelight Stroll this walkable walled village through narrow stone lanes, each lined with curio shops, cafes and ample antique stores, beckoning one’s curiosity. At night, the plazas are luminescent with laughter and clinking glasses at The Square Pub as plans for the next day come together. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next