A design and marketing consulting service for hospitality, travel and lifestyle brands. Award-winning talent working with visionary clients to create game-changing results. C O N S U L T I N G A design and marketing consulting service for hospitality, travel and lifestyle brands. Award-winning talent working with visionary clients to create game-changing results. For inquiries: info@hitherandwander.com

Considered the "Oxford" of Portugal, Coimbra is the alma mater of kings and presidents. Nowhere in Portugal does the heart and mind come together quite like this hallowed University town. COIMBRA, PORTUGAL Considered the "Oxford" of Portugal, Coimbra is the alma mater of kings and presidents. Nowhere in Portugal does the heart and mind come together quite like this hallowed University town. Caped Crusade The fashion inspiration for the notable coeds of Hogwarts in Harry Potter was in fact the cape-draped students of Coimbra. Founded in 1290, Coimbra is among the oldest universities in continuous operation in the world. ___ Fado Ao Centro It is here, in the town square on a balmy night where one’s heart hits its high note, as “men’s Fado” is performed on the steps of the main cathedral. Different from the women of the Alfama, down in Lisbon with their torch songs of heartbreak, the men in Coimbra sing of comraderie, brotherhood in battle, and the pride of victory. ___ Blinded with Science At the (incredible) Coimbra Science Museum , one encounters grand halls of glass cases featuring vintage scientific instruments along with examples of botanical, zoologic, anthropologic, mineralogical sciences, plus ancient tools of astronomy. In the stairwells linking the collections, centuries-old windows “display” the historic campus itself and the beautifully terraced town below. ___ Joanine Library At the heart of the Coimbra campus, the Joanine Library is one of the most stunning libraries anywhere in the world. Inside, tall walls and gilded ceilings rise like inspiration, almost flying overhead, –coincidental metaphor for the library’s unique archival protection system. Bats are used to protect the timeless content, released in the night from their in-wall cubbies to eat the parchment-hungry insects who might otherwise consume the library’s largess. Not to worry, the library is cleaned of all bat guano each morning before opening. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

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A medieval jewel set in a silvery fjord, hidden from time and the outside world. Its cobblestone paths are a crosshatch rendering of life in previous centuries. KOTOR, MONTENEGRO A medieval jewel set in a silvery fjord, hidden from time and the outside world. Its cobblestone paths are a crosshatch rendering of life in previous centuries. Stairway to Heaven Mount Lovcen slants straight down to sea level, framing the village like a theater curtain. One’s early morning hike, straight up a Roman era staircase, the Ladder of Kotor , is a view so sweeping it seems perched at the top of the sky. ___ Bay of Kotor The sensuous bay is host to all variety of vessels, from the world’s largest square-rigged sailing cruise ship, the Royal Clipper twinkling in its evening mooring, to the tiniest fishing boat that somehow stays afloat despite its ballast of two full-grown Montenegrins intent on catching their illusive dinner. ___ Kotor by Candlelight Stroll this walkable walled village through narrow stone lanes, each lined with curio shops, cafes and ample antique stores, beckoning one’s curiosity. At night, the plazas are luminescent with laughter and clinking glasses at The Square Pub as plans for the next day come together. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

JAPAN A land where mindfulness flows in many forms: architecture, cuisine, garden design, fashion, music, stage, packaging, transportation. Each craft thoughtfully explored and realized with exquisite simplicity. Tokyo efficiently shelters an impossibly large populous with welcoming grace. Kyoto inspires the soul and spirit with humble sophistication. Naoshima delights the eyes and mind with groundbreaking originality. Together, they are the glow of the rising sun that is Japan. KYOTO Inspiration Meets Tranquillity TOKYO A Vertical Jewel Box NAOSHIMA (Coming Soon)

Like a vertical jewel box, Tokyo dazzles at every angle. Blinking red marker lights define the height and width of all tall buildings for aircraft, giving the skyline a strange visual continuity despite the variety of architectural styles and sizes. TOKYO, JAPAN Like a vertical jewel box, Tokyo dazzles at every angle. Blinking red marker lights define the height and width of all tall buildings for aircraft, giving the skyline a strange visual continuity despite the variety of architectural styles and sizes. FIVE FAVES / TOKYO Shibuya Shuffle The Tokyo cityscape at street level can be impossibly frenetic, even comical in time-lapse, but in contrast to the insane Shibuya crossing, many neighborhoods such as Shinjuku take on a more personal scale and easy-going feel. ___ Tsutaya Books, Ginza Crowning the 6th floor of the Ginza Six shopping center is the remarkable Tsutaya Bookshop . Its skylit atrium illuminates the mind and heart the way a good book does. Art books are presented in an exhilarating space, blending beauty with inspiration. –and a favorite Tokyo photo op. ___ Asakusa Culture and Information Center A tourist bureau so beautifully designed that it itself is a sightseeing attraction! This towering latticework of timber and glass, designed by renowned architect Kengo Kuma is both modest and bold in its design, looking like a stack of wooden buildings from the neighborhood casually piled atop one another. An eclectic monolith that playfully looms over the stunning Sensoji Temple and the charming Asakusa district. ___ d-47 Museum A Japan-themed space exhibiting the designs, products and creative individuality of the island nation's 47 prefectures. Presented on 47 tables, each display focuses on the unique regional artistry and local culture. The namesake d-Department stores and online shops are equally inspiring. ___ Photo by Daici Ano Windows on Ginza Ginza, which means “Place of Silver” has been the main commercial district of Tokyo since the early 17th century, and that still stands today, –literally. The height of wealth here is matched only by its architecture. Timeless luxury brands such as Mikimoto, Louis Vuitton, Dior and Hermes, among others flaunt new gleaming facades, each as gorgeous and distinctive as the wares inside. Mikimoto Ginza 2-chome building Designed by Toyo Ito & Associates, the undersea window shapes appear random but each is precisely sized and positioned to lend structural support, allowing the interior to be column-free. Louis Vuitton / Ginza Wrapped in an undulating glaze of pearlescent glass that references the nearby Tokyo bay, this graceful design is the work of Jun Aoki & Associates with flowing interiors created by Peter Marino. Private Architectural Tour of Ginza ___ Muji Ah, the little heart flutter that happens when one enters a Muji store. Here in Tokyo, this flagship in Ginza really gets the blood pumping with an expanded array of retail, plus an art exhibit space, an irresistible bakery and a Muji hotel to top it all off. Refined design at affordable prices. Shop, sleep, eat and enjoy. ___ The Okura Hotel A tale almost as lovely as the design itself, the Okura Hotel, a masterpiece of Japanese modernism is a triumph of father and son architects, working decades apart. The hotel’s original balance of light and form was the vision of Yoshiro Taniguchi in 1960. After years of neglect, a thoughtful and comprehensive restoration was overseen by his son, Yoshio Taniguchi. Now, in all its modern and airy grace, it appears as though time has stood still since opening day in May, 1962. ___ Kabukiza Theater In 1629, a law was passed in Japan that, to this day has kept women actors from the Kabuki stage, yet there are many female roles in the centuries-old tales portrayed. Instead, male actors train for years to become “onnagata”, crafting an astonishing performance as women. Not so much an imitation of women, but an embodiment of a special artistic convention unique to Kabuki. Another true attribute of Kabuki is “mie”, where a strong pose is struck in “stop-motion” poses, accompanied by loud wooden clapper beats. Not meant to be realistic, this over-the-top tableau freezes a powerful picture of the emotion or conflict. Amazing to watch and to think that it’s been performed this way for centuries, yet continuously adapting to modern times. Including the Kabukiza Theater itself, reimagined by architect Kengo Kuma in 2013. A design that honors tradition, while providing a stage for the future of this art form. ___ Photo by David Davis Photo by Udatsu Sushi Udatsu Sushi “A space that is not just about sushi, but also a place representative of the city of Tokyo; where people from diverse backgrounds can interact and deepen their mutual understanding of each other.” —Chef/owner, Hisashi Udatsu The son of a butcher and next-door neighbor to his hometown’s only sushi restaurant, Hisashi’s young eyes witnessed daily the artistry of Japanese culinary traditions. By age 14, he informed his friends that he will be a chef. Today, Hisashi sets a humble table where storied meals are masterfully staged on dreamy Jenny Sharaf ceramics. ___ Onsen Ryokan Yuen Shinjuku A zen stillness is palpable in this simple but remarkable high rise hotel in Shinjuku. Materials that one would expect in a craftsman home or a temple appear natural in this modern space. An interior path of black slate leads to the spa elevator that escorts guests to the rooftop onsen. A breathtaking spa experience, with its open-air views of Tokyo twinkling under the stars. One’s focus softens in the rising steam of the onsen pool sheltered from any breezes 18 floors above the city. Later, float down a few floors, where one’s bed awaits in the form and feel of a cloud. ___ Raising the Bar (and lowering it) Suntory Lounge Eagle, (top image) a Tokyo classic since the early ‘90’s, this sunken highball bar features a grand staircase descending from street level, fit for a swooning diva’s entrance. Escape the strobing LED night and slip into a chandelier-lit sanctuary where the shaking of chilled Japanese vodka sets the rhythm for conversation and people watching. Main Bar Brilliant (bottom two images) is a swank hideaway in plain sight at the Keio Plaza Hotel in the middle of Shinjuku. If the 1970’s Johnny Carson set had included a bar, it might have looked like this. A modernist grid of brick and wood lines the long, low-slung bar, while round swivel chairs populate the space like orange planets. Tuxedoed bartenders construct perfect cocktails with precision, their surreal presence vaguely familiar, perhaps from a Stanley Kubrick film. ___ Photo by David Davis Shinjuku Golden Gai A tangle of six narrow alleys shingled in a cacophony of neon signs leads to tiny shanty bars with seating for a lucky few. Off each alley are even narrower passageways, barely wide enough for a single person to win their way through. But so worth it! 200+ little bars, clubs and eateries, all squeezed into a maze of unexpected delights. Be respectful with your camera. Taking pictures without permission is frowned upon and could lose you that coveted bar stool. ___ INSPIRATION : A touch of Japan for your world at home. Sparkling Yuzu Gimlet When in Japan, on the winter solstice, consider bathing in yuzu, as is the custom dating back to the early 18th century. But at home, there’s the Yuzu Gimlet, sparking like moonlight in your glass. Originally from central China and Tibet, Yuzu was introduced to Japan and Korea during the Tang dynasty, and its citrusy pleasures quickly squeezed their way worldwide, adding a splash of East-Asia here at home. Recipe: Food & Wine ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

México City, aka ”Ciudad de México, or just “CDMX” is a living metropolis like no other. 20 million residents quilted across 573 square miles, in a Lego landscape framed by mountains and active volcanoes. MÉXICO CITY México City, aka ”Ciudad de México, or just “CDMX” is a living metropolis like no other. 20 million residents quilted across 573 square miles, in a Lego landscape framed by mountains and active volcanoes. While it appears impossibly vast from an airplane window, here on the ground, each neighborhood evokes a surprisingly serene quality. Individual enclaves budding with proud artistry, unique architecture and swoon worthy cuisine. Centro Histórico A constant swirl of activity, Centro is like the center of a galaxy, timeless and alluring and absolutely alive. At its heart, ancient ruins of the Aztec Templo Mayor feel almost buried by the centuries it’s endured amid the flurry, not to mention the futility of seeing its stones repurposed by the conquering Spanish to form the walls of Catholic cathedrals. Their bell towers casting sundial shadows across the vast plazas. Also standing tall in Centro CDMX is the Palacio de Bellas Artes, the Metropolitan Cathedral, the Palacio Nacional, the Church of Santo Domingo, Museo Nacional de Arte and the Museo Frida Kahlo. ___ Roma Norte Ironic that this modern-aesthetic neighborhood lined with design-centric cafes, fusion restaurants, vintage shops and spiky bohemes dates back to the 20th century, when affluent families first relocated here, beyond the hubbub of Centro Histórico. Roma Norte and Condesa are close sisters, sophisticated yet laid back and welcoming. ___ Plaza Río de Janeiro The timelessly-toned gluteus maximus of Michelangelo‘s David adds muscularity to the serenity of Roma Norte. While David looks to have been standing here for ages, this impressive bronze replica of the original was created in 2020. Weighing in at trim 284.16 lbs. and standing an erect 16.96 ft., this Alpha-generation David is one of two replicas gracing CDMX. His impeccable white marble twin greets visitors in the grand lobby of the Museo Soumaya in Polanco. ___ Juárez The Colonia Juárez neighborhood, shaped like an airplane wing, has always been home to a lofty group of artists and intellectuals, despite eras of financial decay and earthquake damage. Today, it thrives with creative shops and restaurants nestled in early 19th century townhouses. It hosts a lively Korean enclave (with the K-town cuisine options to go with it) and a proud gay community in its “Pink Zone”. In our opinion, here you’ll discover the best bespoke clothes, curios, salons, and cafes. ___ Condesa “The Countess”, indeed. Elegant, charming, colorful, festive, ready to receive her bohemian subjects and visiting guests in leafy pageantry. Art deco buildings crown the walkable tree-lined streets like a tiara, adding streamline sensibility to this historic neighborhood in the Cuauhtémoc borough. By day, genteel, and welcoming, but by night our countess steps out into the lively, international nightlife of the Hipodromo ‘hood. All together, a mix of stunning restaurants, bookshops, bars and boutique inns define Condesa, along with its youthful energy and sophisticated design. The only reason to explore beyond its many charms is the related simple wonders of neighboring Roma-Norte (and Juárez!) ___ Museums México City’s trove of art and anthropological collections is reason enough to visit the city. Presented in glorious venues, each museum in CDMX colors us spellbound and inspired. ___ National Museum of Anthropology In its central courtyard, an impossibly massive rectangular mushroom umbrella seems to hover overhead, balanced atop a single sequoia-sized pillar. The usually-penetrating Mexican sun is effortlessly eclipsed by this towering centerpiece designed in 1964 by visionary architects, Pedro Ramírez Vázquez, Jorge Campuzano, and Rafael Mijares Alcérreca. As if some sort of alien form, it drizzles water onto the pond below in a mesmerizing rain dance, like a set piece from David Lynch’s Dune. Inside the galleries that flank this phenomenon are artefacts from México's indigenous Maya, Aztec and Olmec cultures. Mind-bending pieces that intricately illustrate the complexities and beauties of lifetimes past. ___ Chapultepec Castle It said that one of these young Niños Héroes cadets, memorialized in bronze, wrapped himself in the Mexican flag and leaped to his death from this very balustrade rather than surrender to the American army that would soon take the castle in 1847. It survived the Mexican-American war and the regrettable rule of Austrian archduke Emperor Maximilian, who, in 1864 imported a very non-indigenous interior design style to this strategic hillside fortress/royal home, not to mention a most objectionable–and doomed monarchy rule. (His was executed in 1867). Originally a sacred place to the Aztecs, Chapultepec means “Hill of the Grasshoppers” in their language. Today it is home to the National Museum of History with an array of fascinating artifacts and exhibits. ___ Soumaya Museum When one is one of the richest people on the planet, one may conceive and construct an out-of-this-world gallery for one’s own private collection, assembled in one place to be appreciated by all. Hence the genesis of this undulating modern jewelbox that houses spectacular works starting with an exact marble replica of Michelangelo‘s David in the lobby, then spiraling its way up to a cavalcade of masterworks. The honeycomb stainless steel exterior is jaw dropping, and the collection inside is breathtaking. ___ Museo de Arte Moderno 1964 must have been such a celebrated year culturally for CDMX, with this dual-cylinder museum debuting along with its sister, the masterpiece Anthropology Museum. “MAM” is both charming and impressive, welcoming and awe-inspiring. Located in Chapultepec Park, it features an enviable permanent collection with works by Mexican masters, Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera and beyond exhibited in the two circular buildings, joined by a sculpture garden. Inspired temporary exhibitions also dazzle, so much so that repeated visits are recommended for return travelers. ___ Frida Kahlo Museum Frida slept here. She painted masterpieces from her bed. Frail and permanently impaired from an accident in 1925 as she was riding on a bus, she managed as if by a miracle. A steel rod had pierced her 18 year old body like a cruel sword yet somehow, she and her talent survived, living on with the lightness of a butterfly. An angel on this earth–with a paint brush. Her Devine space, known as the Blue House in Coyoacán was her home, her studio and her infirmary. Patti Smith wrote this poem after visiting Frida’s thoughtfully preserved bedside. I can not walk I can not see Further than what Is in front of me I lay on my back yet I do not cry Transported in space by the butterflies. Above my bed Another sky With the wings you sent Within my sight All pain dissolves In another light Transported thru Time By the butterfly ___ Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo Studio Nestled in the lovely San Angel district, a historical area treasured for its colonial architecture and cobbled streets, “Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo” is the former co-habited home/studio of iconic artists Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. The studio still seems very much abuzz with artwork displayed on easels and the intricate tools, once in the hands of these two artists arranged on tables as if masterworks are underway as we speak. Rivera’s extensive collection of indigenous artwork is on display, just as he left it. The building itself is a work of art, designed in 1929 by Rivera’s friend, architect Juan O’Gorman, in a style that combines traditional Mexican architecture with functionalist design. Enjoy this virtual tour of the property, made possible by the Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes. ___ Standout Dining & Imbibing An ample portion of the delirious pleasure of México City is in its dining and drinking. Just as this metropolis is home to the purest form of the Spanish language, the true essence of Mexican cuisine is borne here. CDMX is the test kitchen where traditional cuisine meets modern experimentation. And that goes for cocktail crafting as well! To top it all off, restaurant design here is theater, be it bohemian or elegant, the inventive staging enlivens each performance. There are SO many greats, but here’s our top three… ___ San Ángel Inn This grand but soft spoken Colonial-era hacienda stretches out in siesta style sensuality, where shaded verandas and verdant courtyard gardens meet like lovers. In this Eden, margaritas are served “up”, poured with pride by the waiter into salt-rimmed martini glasses. One’s replenishment, equal to the first pour, is kept chilled in a silver vile resting on a cloud of crushed ice in one’s own personal-size silver ice bucket. Any pain or suffering that one may have carried in upon arrival, no longer registers as of the 2nd round. I believe this to be the finest margarita in the world. Order the table side Caesar which takes two waiters to whisk and toss to perfection. If more ballast is desired, the menu overfloweth with traditional delights, not to mention memorable desserts. Then there’s the bakery and gift shop! ___ Azul Histórico Perhaps the most beautiful restaurant anywhere, it rests in the open air courtyard of a 17th-century palace. Your table awaits beneath gestural trees and a soaring vertical wall garden. Chef Ricardo Muñoz Zurita has re-conjured certain moles and salsas that hail from another time in México City, previously unfamiliar even to serious foodies. Zurita’s Mole Negro and his Oaxacan tortilla soup are highlights in our book. Savor this quiet respite, in such contrast with the bustle of Centro just outside these 17th-century walls. ___ Panadaría Rosetta The best reason to wake up in México City is Rosetta, no matter how bad the jet lag. I could sleepwalk to her subterranean panadaría in Juarez, (and I think I may have! Twice!!) Pajamas are permitted as one slips onto a stool, pondering the fantastic pastry options as they come into focus. You see, these are the best pastries of all time. The real reason to travel to México City? Rosetta pastries. And her delicious cortado will assure a bright-eyed start to your day in CDMX. ___ Local Arts & Crafts Every sidewalk window, in every part of town seems to be a showcase for local artisan handiwork. This can lead to challenging space concerns with regards to one’s carry-on luggage. Condesa, Roma Norte and Juárez are home to the best curios and antiques. One in particular is Origen México Artesanías. The operators of this tiny but cock-full shop in Juárez should be commended. Their lovely wares are the reward for their work to improve the living conditions of Mexican craftsmen by helping facilitate sales, education and management skills. They work with each artisan to produce products that incorporate innovation, yet preserve strong cultural origins. ___ Holiday CDMX Winter slips in over this 7,000ft metropolis like a feathery duvet, silently warming the sprawl of city life with renewed energy. Mexican tin Christmas trees glimmer and glow from apartment windows while giant multi-pointed stars illuminate the streets as they float over town plazas. Churches seem dipped in gold and outdoor nativity scenes are awash in waves of colored paper flowers. Lovers walk in the long parkways wearing matching santa caps, embracing the charm of the season and the annual promise of peace on earth. ___ Half-Day Trips It’s hard to tell where and when one will find the outskirts of town in this endless population of 9 million+. But, trust us, it’s worth the ride. The great pyramids, the goofy gondolas, and an extraterrestrial orbit of concrete, all just a half-day there and back. So buckle up! ___ Xochimilco Gondola Boats Known as the "Venice of México," Xochimilco is the home port for gondola-like boats, or “trajineras” that navigate its ancient canal system. (Reality check: This is not a bit like Venice! ;-) Hire a trajinera for a drift through the canals, past floating gardens (chinampas) blooming to the beat of mariachi bands and the call of floating vendors selling food and drinks. Trajineras rent by the hour, with weekend tours geared more to partying and weekday cruising more about nature. Having experienced the vacant boredom of the weekday option, the weekend looks to be a lot more fun. Bring a boatful of friends and drinks and this might actually be great. ___ Universidad Nacional Autónoma In a Sistine Chapel-like moment in modern art history, the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) became the shrine of (literally) groundbreaking outdoor art, integrated with astonishing architecture. The most famous is the multi-story mosaic murals of Juan O'Gorman, produced in Michelangelo-like incredulity between 1948 and 1955. Wrapping all four sides of the stark library structure, the murals depict key moments of Mexican history and culture. Just to the south, in an ecological reserve, lay an environmental artwork straight out of Kubrick’s 2001 A Space Odyssey. Six sculptors—Federico Silva, Hersúa, Helen Escobedo, Sebastián, Mathias Goeritz, and Manuel Felguérez together imagined and constructed this 120-meter diameter ring of volcanic stone featuring 64 triangular forms arranged in a perfect circle around a field of lava rock. Think Stonehenge–on steroids. Fanning out from the circle is the Sculpture Walk, a sculptors’ nature trail featuring individual (and climbable) large-format sculptures by each of the six “Circle”artists. ___ SPOTLIGHT: Teotihuacan Pyramid The Manhattan of Mesoamerica, this ancient city predates the Aztec Empire by several centuries, –roughly the first half of the first millennium (1 CE to 500 CE). Teotihuacan was the largest city in the Americas, with a population of at least 25,000, but some estimates have it at 125,000 residents, maybe more. Located 25 miles northeast of México City, it is the most architecturally significant Mesoamerican pyramid in the Americas. Or, more accurately, two pyramids. Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon. 100% worth the drive from CDMX, so long as you wear comfy climbing shoes and good sun protection. Once you come down from the Sun and Moon, a surprisingly good restaurant, La Gruta awaits you underground, in a cave! Light a candle to make a wish after your lunch and head back into town for dinner. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

A curated list of what not to miss. This is The City of Lights, not just because of its nighttime glow, but because of the illumination it brings to one’s heart and mind. PARIS, FRANCE A curated list of what not to miss. This is The City of Lights, not just because of its nighttime glow, but because of the illumination it brings to one’s heart and mind. FIVE FAVES / PARIS Musée Rodin If there’s one tip I can confidently impart to those visiting (or residing in) Paris it is the Musée Rodin at sundown, just before they close for the day. Sunlight pours like Viognier through the tall windows, glazing the walls with diagonal stripes, while draping the bare musculature of Rodin’s subjects in form-fitting couture light. The storied residence of sculptor Auguste Rodin is veiled in a lace of shadows as late sunlight sketches fleeting patterns across the room. Faces that the artist suspended in time a hundred years ago look away as the sun finds a place to rest in the garden until tomorrow. ___ Parc de la Villette Architect Bernard Tschumi designed the Parc de la Villette, with the intention of creating “a space that exists in a vacuum”, something without historical precedent, to allow for the existence of a “non-place” based on “culture” rather than “nature.” The design of the park is a groundbreaking example of architectural deconstructivism. “By allowing visitors to experience the architecture of the park within this constructed vacuum, the time and activities that take place in that space begin to acquire a more vivid and authentic nature.” In simpler terms, it’s big, open and not at all structured like the Parisian parks of old. La Géode in the Sciences Center is an otherworldly mirrored dome housing an Omnimax theatre. ___ Paris Philharmonic Designed by Jean Nouvel, the new home of the Paris Philharmonic is renowned for its near perfect acoustics. The convulsing metallic exterior with interlocking MC Escher-esque patterns looks alive in the changing daylight and luminous at night. It is one of several civic music facilities located within Parc de la Villette . ___ Crepes as Art In the right hands, crepes become “origami”. Gently flipped and folded, a paper-thin circle of buckwheat becomes sculptural rapture, be it savory or sweet. This artwork also serves as sustenance for those seeking rest and replenishment midway up the steep hillside climb to Sacré Coeur. I recommend one such haven from those unforgiving stairs, where works of creperie art are rendered daily: Rozell Café & Creperie , Montmartre. ___ Pinault Collection Presented in the rotunda of the reimagined Bourse de Commerce , a group of monumental sculptures composed of wax, each with candles inside are lit on the first day of the exhibition. As the candles melt, the sculptures gradually disintegrate, sending faces, arms and other appendices crashing to the gallery floor, which, in turn become part of the exhibit. The renovated space is itself a work of art by Japanese architect Tadao Ando that is nothing short of spectacular. Multiple galleries now ring the 1800’s building in modern art, forming the latest must-see art venue in Paris. Untitled (2011) by Swiss artist Urs Fischer ___ Le Louvre If the sky were not dark you’d swear it was daylight. Such is the ambiance of an evening in the twin courtyards of Le Louvre . A glow that takes your breath away when stepping through the arched gateways into this sanctum of light. Cellos and flutes resonate in the open corridors, played by lone musicians hoping that a passerby’s euros will alight upon their performance. ___ Morning Light in St. Germain Saint Germain des Prés is a neighborhood that connotes masterpiece scenes of the Left Bank. The obsession of every self guided art tour of Paris. Where poets, artists and philosophers famously conversed at Café Flore over the roar of possibilities. Yet, here inside the church, a centuries old stillness is anointed in the colors of stained glass. A reverence so hushed one can almost hear the candles fluttering, or the prayers for which they burn. The brilliant author and musician, Patti Smith was recently in Paris on tour with her reunited band and posted a brief description of her morning walk: “I lit candles in the St Germain church for the children of the world, and then went to say hello to Picasso’s tribute to his friend, the poet Apollinaire, that beautiful head of Dora Maar (in the rear garden of the church) near Café de Flore.” Ah, a morning inspired by Patti Smith here where Sartre and Camus once philosophized over coffee in the fabled Left Bank of Paris. ___ Le Musée d’Orsay France has a love of art, and walks the walk to support it. In 1975, it was determined that a new museum was needed to represent the arts from the second half of the 19th century. At the same time, a retired Beaux-Arts train station was about to be demolished when visionary preservationists spoke up. Et voilà, the proposed museum and the rescued “gare” became one. Today, Le Musée d’Orsay is one of the world’s most inspired art spaces, housing artworks so famous and fabulous it weakens the knees. But its crescendo is the great clock window on the fifth floor. As cinematic and startling as a Hitchcock storyboard, this watch-work window provides the ultimate photo location and a sweeping view from the Seine to Sacré Coeur. ___ Le Centre Pompidou In making one’s way through the Marais neighborhood in Paris, the narrow stone streets suddenly widen like gates opening onto a fanciful world of color and form as Le Centre Pompidou comes into view. Renzo Piano’s early and revolutionary work literally turned architecture inside out by placing the traditionally hidden mechanical parts of a structure on the outside, forming what appears to be a wild bionic beast crouching in the middle of a 17th century village. A friendly beast though, with wonderful qualities. A generous art aficionado with room in his heart to share inspiration with architecture lovers on their pilgrimage to one of the great cultural venues of our time. ___ Le Jardin du Luxembourg With one’s first step into this grandest of all Paris gardens, Le Jardin du Luxembourg , the clamor of the 6th arrondissement quickly fades. The world itself, seems subdued into silence, except for the lapping of fountains. Ancient sculptures stand frozen in their moment, concealing centuries they’ve seen go by. Today, flowers overflow their urns while dreamers contort into green metal chairs, watching the daylight move across the formal garden like a lazy sundial. Images : The Medici Fountain was built in 1630 by Marie de’ Medici. "L'effort" bronze sculpture by Pierre Roche (1855-1922). Toy sailboats navigate the Central Fountain. 5 euros for 30 minutes of sailing. ___ INSPIRATION : A touch of France for your world at home. The French Boulle Desk My office is anchored in 19th century splendor from Napoleon III’s France, (but I acquired it in this century from Nickey/Kehoe ). This over-the-top desk is described in design parlance as “clean and classical, standing on fluted legs and decorated with brass inlays in motifs of the Louis XVI style.” Despite its “let them eat cake” appearance, the desk is actually quite utilitarian. Hidden within its deceivingly compact size, it boasts a massive single drawer that slips away unnoticed amid the froufrou. Tucked into the tight quarters of a Paris hotel in St. Germain, a helpful concierge plans out one’s day in the 6th arrondissement, executed in exquisite detail on a petit, black lacquer Boulle desk with added privacy panel. Back at home, a Boulle desk functions as a sort of personal concierge, providing an inspired place for charting life between travels. ___ Back DESTINATIONS Next

Croatia reclines along the Adriatic like an easygoing neighbor. Just 100 nautical miles from Italy, hard-won pride resonates where not so long ago, fierce fighting shuddered the nation in a protracted battle for independence. CROATIA Croatia reclines along the Adriatic like an easygoing neighbor. Just 100 nautical miles from Italy, hard-won pride resonates where not so long ago, fierce fighting shuddered the nation in a protracted battle for independence. Today its bucolic landscape and well preserved architectural heritage welcomes all with the warmth of a grandma’s embrace. CAVTAT Walk Along the Waterfront DUBROVNIK Explore a Medieval Magical Wonder OMIS A Treasure Tucked into Coastal Cliffs SPLIT Roman Splendor in a Modern Port City VIS ISLAND Indulge in Timeless Charm